Lol, well apparently I was in the process of editing before you replied, and you got there first.
Are you modding a CSR or a CSR Elite? Are the 555's 4-pole motors? The ones I have to replace them are 7-pole.
Yes, the skinnier belt that runs to the electric motor pulleys.
Oh and to ViaContra: sorry, forgot to answer your question. I use Inventor for modeling and AutoCAD for dimensioned drawings made from the imported model. I am able to use them at my former employer's. I couldn't afford them myself. However AutoDesk will let you have copies for free if you are using it to learn. The only thing is they do something so you can't use it to print (maybe overlay with a message?) or something like that.
As far as warranty, everything I plan to change would be able to be changed back, and shouldn't affect the warranty. I might sell some kits if there is interest, but I'm not planning on it. My motor mods that I'm doing for only my wheel will probably void the warranty though. At this point, if another set of motors burn up, I could care less, since all they'll do under warranty is give me another set that will burn up. I am planning on a water-cooling setup that I might sell kits for too, (again, depends on interest), and that shouldn't void anything either. The cooling is very much needed, IMO. I just played some GT5 on my new CSW and I could feel the FFB strength dropping off after about 20-30 minutes of play.
ViaContra, what about the drive MOSFETs? I am pretty much positive I am feeling a significant reduction in torque the longer I play. Unless it's just the comms going to ****e already. Do you have any insight on electrical improvements that you found helpful?
Yeah I know the 555 designation, I just couldn't find a spec sheet for it anywhere.
Smokey, I used to run 10 in GT5, but since I got this wheel I've been running 8, since I heard that running max FFB in-games often causes clipping of the signal. I run the wheel at 100. No, the motor drive belt isn't the same as the wheel drive belt. The wheel drive belt is 4-rib, the original CSR Elite and CSW motor drive belts are 2-rib, and my latest CSW has a 3-rib motor drive belt. Not sure when they changed this.
Yes, this is true, but my goal is not necessarily reduced slippage so much as reducing side load for people using stock motors (hopefully they will be able to reduce belt tension or leave it equal and reduce any slippage to minimum. That being said, a 90 degree belt wrap seems very insufficient as far as grip levels go, especially once the belt has aged a bit.
On another note, I've just received my new CSW and it is sporting a 3-rib motor drive belt rather than the 2-rib used on the Elite. So it must be of some concern to Fanatec as well. It is pretty clear the Japanese blogger's original beta CSW has a 2-rib belt from his photos, so it must be a change they made at some point. Wonder when?
As far as warranty, everything I plan to change would be able to be changed back, and shouldn't affect the warranty. I might sell some kits if there is interest, but I'm not planning on it. My motor mods that I'm doing for only my wheel will probably void the warranty though. At this point, if another set of motors burn up, I could care less, since all they'll do under warranty is give me another set that will burn up. I am planning on a water-cooling setup that I might sell kits for too, (again, depends on interest), and that shouldn't void anything either. The cooling is very much needed, IMO. I just played some GT5 on my new CSW and I could feel the FFB strength dropping off after about 20-30 minutes of play.
Yeah, I agree. It still has decent FFB even after it seems to drop off, it just starts to feel weaker and more rubbery, if you will.
Sorry, I was not aware you knew the motor model decoding. There is a document for it on the Mabuchi website. I would need to check a motor the next time i have the end of the motor off to count the poles to be sure.
I do not have any specific electrical improvements as I am not that type of engineer. You maybe have a bad thermal bond between the heatsink and your driver chips. Check your motor wires to see if they are hot too.
I'm sorry I can not be more help with this part right now
it is normal for the FFB to become weaker after a while when using FFB at 100%.
it is a built in safety feature in the firmware that reduces current in the motors as the temps rise.
it is normal for the FFB to become weaker after a while when using FFB at 100%.
it is a built in safety feature in the firmware that reduces current in the motors as the temps rise.
My CSR-E does not become weaker even after hours of online racing, my FF is at 100%.
I read a test on the effect of lowering the FF on the wheel on a Fanatec wheel and was convince that the best way to use the wheel is FF100% on the wheel and adjust the SIM FF strengh for the result you are expecting.
I would be very curious to know if there is such a feature in the FW, to reduce current when the motor over heat.
It does not sound like a bad idea to offer it as an option. It would let the driver know it is time to take it easy and save motors.
So Dave, if we can keep the temps down the current will stay constant? Do you know if this is dependent on the temperature sensor or if it's a built-in algorithm or time/current table?
And as far as the rubbery, I just mean the resistance to turning doesn't feel as solid, it sort of feels rubbery. It has nothing to do with the belts, and everything to do with either torque loss due to heat or the current reduction Dave is talking about in the firmware. My new motors should fight the current reduction well with 2 extra poles, but torque=current, so if it is related to the temp sensor, my water cooling mod becomes even more important.
Felipe, what are you asking for pictures of? Just the 2 different wheels with the different sized belts? I can do that I guess, my Elite is still here and it has the 2-rib belt.
Paskowitz, it is definitely happening. Maybe you aren't running as high of FFB as I am, I like it strong. And it's not just with my CSW...both of my Elites did the same thing.
Edit: Here you go Felipe:
This is the CSW with the 3-rib belt:
And here is the Elite with the 2-rib belt:
If you look closely, you can see that the CSW also has a different finish on the pulley than the Elite. The Elite pulley is "as-machined" finish and the CSW pulley appears to have been grit-blasted to roughen up the surface...presumably to increase grip and reduce slippage.
My CSW got weaker after 15/20 mins FFB 100. But then it was cogging as well so the fault was with the motors and they replaced them
I thought that was the job for the fans.
hawk do you have a 2-rib or 3-rib belt on the motor drive?