LSD Settings: How they really work in GT5?

Since this thread keeps getting revived, I thought I would change the OP to direct to the LSD Guide Summary thread. That thread is newer and contains great summaries of each of the tuning garages thoughts about the LSD. So rather than sift through this old thread, I tried to make it easier with the newer thread by putting all thoeries in the OP. So, I recommend starting here...

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=203009

Or, feel free to continue with reading the conversation from this old thread...

Yes, I started a whole new thread about LSDs, even though there are already a number on the subject. I didn’t want this to get buried in page 17 of a long thread that hasn’t proven definitive. For example, the Initial Torque thread hasn’t really provided anything conclusive in my opinion. Maybe this thread won’t either, but I would hope we can post more of “what does the LSD do in this game” rather than a bunch more formulas, theories, tested it on one car and of course the handful of know-it-alls who have it figured out, yet just can seem to provide a simple explanation. What does the diff do in this game, from a programmer point of view? Move a setting up or down, does the car turn better or understeer (not, it locks to 95% rather than 90%). I don’t know if this community can do that, but let’s give it a shot.

This is what I have found the diff to do in GT5.

Initial Torque:
Lower number, a more open diff = better turning /more oversteer
Higher number, a diff closer to lock = more planted/more understeer

Decel/Accel:
These need to be tuned together. This is how you balance the attitude of the car. Decel affects braking through apex or just before throttle application. Accel affects from apex or throttle application through corner exit. You should use Accel/Decel to balance a car all the way through the corner – it should be smooth, not push in, understeer out or the opposite.

Decel:
Lower number, a more open diff when off throttle = better turning /more oversteer when off throttle
Higher number, a diff closer to lock when off throttle = more control /more understeer when off throttle

Accel:
Lower number, a more open diff when on throttle = better turning / more oversteer, and more possibility for inside wheel spin when on throttle
Higher number, a diff closer to lock when on throttle = more planted / more understeer and less possibility for inside wheel spin when on throttle

So how do you choose the settings? It all depends upon the power of the car and your driving style. The goal for tuning the LSD is to find a balance of understeer/oversteer and to reduce inside wheel spin. It doesn’t need to be any more complicated than that. So where should you start? There are many ways to go at this, so I will just describe how I approach it. Others will have methods to achieve the same goal – a faster, better driving tuned diff. I start with Initial at the default of 10. I truly believe that you have to balance the car first with Decel and Accel, then return to Initial.

My steps:
1.) Initial at 10

2.) Tune the balance with Decel/Accel. I just recently found a track to tune on that really exposes the weaknesses of an LSD tune – Grand Valley East, reverse. The first two turns at the end of the long straight really test the Decel settings of the diff. The first corner is a mid-level left hander, followed immediately by a sort of tight left hander. You can carry some speed through the first corner, but will need to brake a bit for the second – all while the car is off balance, mid corner. If your car has understeer through this section, lower the Decel. If it has oversteer and tries to spin out trying to enter the second corner, raise the Decel.

The other section of Grand Valley East, reverse that exposes a weak LSD tune is the 180 hairpin just before the long straight. Decel can be tuned here too, but the settings that work on the other end of the track will also be strong here. Focus on Accel from power on through exit. If the inside wheel spins or the car has oversteer, raise the Accel. If the car has understeer, lower the Accel.

3.) Now tune the Initial Torque. This is simply an oversteer/understeer proposition times power. For lower powered cars, you can run very low numbers (between 5 and 12). For mid-powered cars I tend to use ranges from 8 to 15. I haven’t found any gains for low to mid power cars to run super high initial torque numbers. These cars just don’t put out enough power to take advantage of a “stronger” diff. For high powered cars, the game changes, depending upon the car. I have used numbers between 10 and 40. It truly depends upon the attitude of the car and how much power and downforce it has. High powered cars also need more throttle control – not just slamming back to full throttle at the apex. More on this below.

4.) Return to Decel/Accel and fine tune, if needed. Once the Initial is set closer to the liking of the car and your driving style, go back to paying attention to the Decel/Accel settings. You may find that corner entry could be a little bit better – raise or lower Decel one or two numbers. Or that corner exit could be a little better – raise or lower the Accel one or two numbers. Finally take one last look at Initial and begin to adjust up and down a number or two, looking to confirm that your LSD is optimized.

One last item to be addressed is outside wheel spin. I will admit that this is the one thing that I have not been able to tune out with the LSD. It challenges logic to how any LSD should work (more locked, less inside wheel spin – less locked, more chance of inside wheel spin). In GT5, I find that when you can move a setting from minimum to maximum and see little difference in affect and/or lap times, the adjustment you are trying to make is not the adjustment needed to solve the problem. You are asking it to solve something that it cannot. My hypothesis (this is the only place in my LSD tuning that is a theory) is that outside wheel spin is more affected by downforce, suspension settings and driver inputs. The outside wheel is being pushed beyond its available grip. Either slow down a little more or apply gentler throttle inputs or change your suspension settings to give more grip on that end of the car. Take the Yellow Bird or the Viper ACR to Grand Valley East, reverse and turn the Initial and Accel all the way up. How can these cars still spin only the outside wheels with an almost locked diff? Both should spin in that situation. Therefore, I believe that getting rid of outside wheel spin is not always the job of the LSD.

Your thoughts? I ask again, what does the diff really do in this game?

Motor City Hami

Yes, I started a whole new thread about LSDs, even though there are already a number on the subject. I didn’t want this to get buried in page 17 of a long thread that hasn’t proven definitive. For example, the Initial Torque thread hasn’t really provided anything conclusive in my opinion. Maybe this thread won’t either, but I would hope we can post more of “what does the LSD do in this game” rather than a bunch more formulas, theories, tested it on one car and of course the handful of know-it-alls who have it figured out, yet just can seem to provide a simple explanation. What does the diff do in this game, from a programmer point of view? Move a setting up or down, does the car turn better or understeer (not, it locks to 95% rather than 90%). I don’t know if this community can do that, but let’s give it a shot.

This is what I have found the diff to do in GT5.

Initial Torque:
Lower number, a more open diff = better turning /more oversteer
Higher number, a diff closer to lock = more planted/more understeer

Decel/Accel:
These need to be tuned together. This is how you balance the attitude of the car. Decel affects braking through apex or just before throttle application. Accel affects from apex or throttle application through corner exit. You should use Accel/Decel to balance a car all the way through the corner – it should be smooth, not push in, understeer out or the opposite.

Decel:
Lower number, a more open diff when off throttle = better turning /more oversteer when off throttle
Higher number, a diff closer to lock when off throttle = more control /more understeer when off throttle

Accel:
Lower number, a more open diff when on throttle = better turning / more oversteer, and more possibility for inside wheel spin when on throttle
Higher number, a diff closer to lock when on throttle = more planted / more understeer and less possibility for inside wheel spin when on throttle

So how do you choose the settings? It all depends upon the power of the car and your driving style. The goal for tuning the LSD is to find a balance of understeer/oversteer and to reduce inside wheel spin. It doesn’t need to be any more complicated than that. So where should you start? There are many ways to go at this, so I will just describe how I approach it. Others will have methods to achieve the same goal – a faster, better driving tuned diff. I start with Initial at the default of 10. I truly believe that you have to balance the car first with Decel and Accel, then return to Initial.

My steps:
1.) Initial at 10

2.) Tune the balance with Decel/Accel. I just recently found a track to tune on that really exposes the weaknesses of an LSD tune – Grand Valley East, reverse. The first two turns at the end of the long straight really test the Decel settings of the diff. The first corner is a mid-level left hander, followed immediately by a sort of tight left hander. You can carry some speed through the first corner, but will need to brake a bit for the second – all while the car is off balance, mid corner. If your car has understeer through this section, lower the Decel. If it has oversteer and tries to spin out trying to enter the second corner, raise the Decel.

The other section of Grand Valley East, reverse that exposes a weak LSD tune is the 180 hairpin just before the long straight. Decel can be tuned here too, but the settings that work on the other end of the track will also be strong here. Focus on Accel from power on through exit. If the inside wheel spins or the car has oversteer, raise the Accel. If the car has understeer, lower the Accel.

3.) Now tune the Initial Torque. This is simply an oversteer/understeer proposition times power. For lower powered cars, you can run very low numbers (between 5 and 12). For mid-powered cars I tend to use ranges from 8 to 15. I haven’t found any gains for low to mid power cars to run super high initial torque numbers. These cars just don’t put out enough power to take advantage of a “stronger” diff. For high powered cars, the game changes, depending upon the car. I have used numbers between 10 and 40. It truly depends upon the attitude of the car and how much power and downforce it has. High powered cars also need more throttle control – not just slamming back to full throttle at the apex. More on this below.

4.) Return to Decel/Accel and fine tune, if needed. Once the Initial is set closer to the liking of the car and your driving style, go back to paying attention to the Decel/Accel settings. You may find that corner entry could be a little bit better – raise or lower Decel one or two numbers. Or that corner exit could be a little better – raise or lower the Accel one or two numbers. Finally take one last look at Initial and begin to adjust up and down a number or two, looking to confirm that your LSD is optimized.

One last item to be addressed is outside wheel spin. I will admit that this is the one thing that I have not been able to tune out with the LSD. It challenges logic to how any LSD should work (more locked, less inside wheel spin – less locked, more chance of inside wheel spin). In GT5, I find that when you can move a setting from minimum to maximum and see little difference in affect and/or lap times, the adjustment you are trying to make is not the adjustment needed to solve the problem. You are asking it to solve something that it cannot. My hypothesis (this is the only place in my LSD tuning that is a theory) is that outside wheel spin is more affected by downforce, suspension settings and driver inputs. The outside wheel is being pushed beyond its available grip. Either slow down a little more or apply gentler throttle inputs or change your suspension settings to give more grip on that end of the car. Take the Yellow Bird or the Viper ACR to Grand Valley East, reverse and turn the Initial and Accel all the way up. How can these cars still spin only the outside wheels with an almost locked diff? Both should spin in that situation. Therefore, I believe that getting rid of outside wheel spin is not the job of the LSD.

Your thoughts? I ask again, what does the diff really do in this game?

Click to expand...

ABout the outside wheel spin: A locked diff will mitigate outside wheel spin and/or inside wheel spin! It just depends on; all those things that you mentioned too!

Mr. CoolFiat

ABout the outside wheel spin: A locked diff will mitigate outside wheel spin and/or inside wheel spin! It just depends on; all those things that you mentioned too!

Click to expand...

I agree, but when I set the LSD at max locking available in the game, I still can get outside wheel spin on some cars. That's what makes me think that the LSD can only take you so far in that problem area.

Fantastic thread! I know my own mind has changed a couple of times between reading differing opinions and also experimenting myself.

I have a proposal for a joint experiment for all interested in this thread, where those partaking post their results for comparison and, hopefully, reach a resolution as to the practical, in-game effects of LSD settings.

I propose the exact same experiments be conducted by each person with a control car, on control tires, and on one particular track, so as to eliminate as many variables as possible and ‘compare apples with apples’.


Whilst the in-game description, real-life examples, and posters subjective opinions in this forum may be right or wrong, by conducting this experiment we can at least solidly identify basic cause-and-effect with as little bias as possible (personal driving style remaining the biggest variable).

Of course this isn’t going to get off the ground unless we get agreement on the particulars of the experiment…


****
I propose 2 test cars – one which is prone to spinning the Inside tire and one which is prone to spinning the Outside tire***

This gives us the 2 most common problems in which LSD is used solve. These 2 problems share the same objective –To improve power-down (traction/grip) and handling characteristics using different LSD settings.
****


Now for the details…

These cars of course are up for discussion as there may be more appropriate choices but heres my 2 cents…

I have an F430 Scuderia with all weight reduction, all non-power-related upgrades, aero, stage 1 engine tune, racing softs and it fries the Outside rear tire like crazy.
What are peoples thoughts on this car (unmodified or modified, but kept the same for all tests) to be used one of the control cars?

I think I read somewhere on here that the Camaro fries the Inside tire badly so perhaps this could be the second control car?

As for the track, simple is better I think, so either high speed ring or trial mountain would work well.



For simplicity, and ease of interpreting results (which I think is important to avoid bashing heads against walls in debates), tests should be conducted using LSD settings of:

1. NO LSD
2. min/min/min
3. min/max/max
4. max/min/min
5. max/max/max


Results should be kept simple and clearly posted in the form of the differences observed in power-down (grip/traction) and handling for each of the settings. Personal opinions should be restrained to a degree, to let the results speak for themselves, unless drawing simple conclusions from the data obtained. Screenshots welcome.


Hopefully this will put everyone on a similar playing field and therefore make it a lot easier to not only resolve the practical in-game effects of LSD settings, but also make it easier to understand where/how posters have obtained their information, with the opportunity for others to re-create this experiment and test their own and others’ theories as well!

GO BANNANA!!!!!

Wow this seems like an actual logical thread about the Differential tuning. The most i've been able to figure out abut the diff is initial torque should be turned down if you keep smoking the tires on acceleration. I will definately try your logic on a car that seems close to impossible to tune, the Shelby GT350R. I'll let you know how it turns out.

One thing keeps me wondering, are the numbers to be seen as %? And if so % of what? Torque? For example initial set to 60(%) meaning until 60% of torque is reached the LSD isn't locked or is it the other way around?

Nice guide! I'll try some LSD on my own now 👍

Motor City Hami

One last item to be addressed is outside wheel spin. I will admit that this is the one thing that I have not been able to tune out with the LSD. It challenges logic to how any LSD should work (more locked, less inside wheel spin – less locked, more chance of inside wheel spin). In GT5, I find that when you can move a setting from minimum to maximum and see little difference in affect and/or lap times, the adjustment you are trying to make is not the adjustment needed to solve the problem. You are asking it to solve something that it cannot. My hypothesis (this is the only place in my LSD tuning that is a theory) is that outside wheel spin is more affected by downforce, suspension settings and driver inputs. The outside wheel is being pushed beyond its available grip. Either slow down a little more or apply gentler throttle inputs or change your suspension settings to give more grip on that end of the car. Take the Yellow Bird or the Viper ACR to Grand Valley East, reverse and turn the Initial and Accel all the way up. How can these cars still spin only the outside wheels with an almost locked diff? Both should spin in that situation. Therefore, I believe that getting rid of outside wheel spin is not the job of the LSD.

Click to expand...

Help me out with a quick test?
Take your car of choice to that same track.
Drop your LSD Accel all the way down to 5.
Let me know if the outside wheel still spins.

LSD acceleration sensitivity is just hypersensitive. You gotta find the exact number to get it right. I was working on car earlier tonight, I had settled on 19 initial torque and 13 braking sensitivity. Tuning out the wheelspin as much as possible required sensitivity over 47 to start to show signs of settling down, 52 turned out to be the sweetspot for consistency, 51 might have turned out a better lap time... but going up to 53 almost immediately made the car a half second slower and slipping began again. Even at 51/52, full throttle on corner exit, and turbo kicks mid range on the car with 620lb-ft of torque it might still show an occasional blip on the wheelspin. I'm not sure if eliminating 100% of it is even realistic, but getting it down to 98% is feasible.

XaNoR

I'll try some LSD on my own now 👍

Click to expand...

Yeah, I suppose trying LSD with others isn't the best when you start seeing your friends turn into 14 legged monsters while you're tripping balls......it isn't really helpful.

Adrenaline

Help me out with a quick test?
Take your car of choice to that same track.
Drop your LSD Accel all the way down to 5.
Let me know if the outside wheel still spins.

Click to expand...

I tried that after reading your posts about LSDs. I think you have been the most clear of anyone at trying to make sense out of the in game LSD. I believe you are closest, but I cannot get your method (or mine) to rid the outside wheel spin. I can reduce it with fine tuning, as bodius suggests, but cannot fully eliminate it on some cars. Downforce and suspension setting adjustments have helped more than the LSD. Easing into the throttle helps the most, but I want to max out the settings to be able to be back on power sooner.

I do have some friends in high place on road race teams for Indy, American Lemans Series and NASCAR. I also road race, so I have had many discussions with them about handling. We have talked about LSDs in the real world, but I have tried to keep my thoughts about the LSD in the game on how it reacts within the game. I could post what I have learned from my vehicle dynamic friends about how different LSDs work in the real world, if anyone is interested. When, why and why not to use a locker, a clutch type, the claw and pinion type and the most popular type used in road racing (goes by many different names, Mugen, Torson, KW, Weisman, etc., but essentially the same) cam and pressure systems. Ninety percent of teams use the cam and pressure systems. Porsche used lockers through the 90's, not sure what they use today, but thought about locking down the Yellow Bird and giving it a try. I have to believe that with Kaz being a road racer himself, he would have programmed his game to match the characteristics of the typical road race LSDs. My in game results match, except for the outside wheel spin.

kickin_on

I have a proposal for a joint experiment for all interested in this thread, where those partaking post their results for comparison and, hopefully, reach a resolution as to the practical, in-game effects of LSD settings.

Click to expand...

We have this a little bit right now with the Tuner Challenge Championship that Adrenaline is running. Not just a full on LSD testing, but tuner against tuner so it's in there. Maybe we take the winning tune from that competition and use that to do further LSD testing? I would hate to take a car with untuned suspension and test only LSD - may skew the results and mask some other issue.

Motor City Hami

I tried that after reading your posts about LSDs. I think you have been the most clear of anyone at trying to make sense out of the in game LSD. I believe you are closest, but I cannot get your method (or mine) to rid the outside wheel spin. I can reduce it with fine tuning, as bodius suggests, but cannot fully eliminate it on some cars. Downforce and suspension setting adjustments have helped more than the LSD. Easing into the throttle helps the most, but I want to max out the settings to be able to be back on power sooner.

Click to expand...

I'm curious as to what car we're discussing and your ride heights.
Is this every car, or a specific car you're referring to?
Also your other LSD settings as well, to see the whole thing. And are we talking Racing Softs?

Motor City Hami

I agree, but when I set the LSD at max locking available in the game, I still can get outside wheel spin on some cars. That's what makes me think that the LSD can only take you so far in that problem area.

Click to expand...

(I realise you want to stay away from formulas and real-life only theories in this thread...but I believe it is helpful here)
Yep, the rear wheels have only a certain amount of traction, and the LSD doesn't increase this. All it can do is split the power between the wheels to make the most of the available traction.

Let's say the inside wheel can handle 150kW and the outside wheel can handle 250kW (more than the inside because of weight transfer). If you have more than 400kW going to the wheels, no LSD can prevent wheelspin. Either the inside (if LSD Accel is too low) or outside (if LSD Accel is too high) or both wheels (perfect LSD Accel for the situation) will spin.

Perhaps adjusting LSD settings so that both wheelspin equally gives the best acceleration, but there are handling effects to consider. I personally find in GT5 that wheelspin on the inside tyre results in more predictable handling than the outside, so I use LSD settings that slightly favour spinning the inside wheel rather that the outside wheel.

Basilea

One thing keeps me wondering, are the numbers to be seen as %? And if so % of what? Torque? For example initial set to 60(%) meaning until 60% of torque is reached the LSD isn't locked or is it the other way around?

Click to expand...

I think they're just arbitary numbers.

If Initial was "preload" (the closest real-life equivalent), it would be in Newton-metres and go up to at least 200. I guess it is possible that Accel and Decel are locking factors, but I don't believe they are (because for complete adjustability the maximum Accel value should be 100%, to replicate a 1-way diff...but I admit this is quite a weak justification).

Adrenaline

I'm curious as to what car we're discussing and your ride heights.
Is this every car, or a specific car you're referring to?
Also your other LSD settings as well, to see the whole thing. And are we talking Racing Softs?

Click to expand...

Many cars. A few I can think of now. I'll check my notes tonight.
Miata with fixed suspension and sport medium tires.
Viper ACR on sport softs and my typical suspension tune thoery.
Viper ACR on racing hards and my typical suspension tuning.
Yellow Bird on sport softs and my typical suspension tuning.
Ford GT '06 on sport softs and my typical suspension tuning.

Some of these cars are worse than others. I should mention that I now use ABS zero because lots of online rooms restrict this. ABS 1 helps, so further evidence that leads me to think the LSD cannot solve the outside wheel spin, even with Initial/Accel set at 5.

In most of those cases you're discussing, sport soft tires simply can't handle that much power, no matter what you do to the LSD. Traction is a basic factor of grip vs torque.
Even in real life the GT and ACR have enough power in stock form, to break traction on any street tire. The game shouldn't be any different.
The Yellow bird... is just an extreme over exaggeration of a RR.
I add rake when I'm still having traction issues under acceleration. Usually a difference of 5 front to rear. The suspension travel seems to help with weight transfer and therefor traction.

I assume you meant Yellow Bird, it's not so much an exaggeration for an RR, I just think they got the wheel width, tire contact patch, lost somewhere along the line. After trying other normal tuning methods to correct oversteer, the one that still remains best with the Yellow Bird for non-ballast tuning is to put a lower grade tire on the front. Simple fix for a such a complex problem.

nomis3613

(I realise you want to stay away from formulas and real-life only theories in this thread...but I believe it is helpful here)
Yep, the rear wheels have only a certain amount of traction, and the LSD doesn't increase this. All it can do is split the power between the wheels to make the most of the available traction.

Let's say the inside wheel can handle 150kW and the outside wheel can handle 250kW (more than the inside because of weight transfer). If you have more than 400kW going to the wheels, no LSD can prevent wheelspin. Either the inside (if LSD Accel is too low) or outside (if LSD Accel is too high) or both wheels (perfect LSD Accel for the situation) will spin.

Perhaps adjusting LSD settings so that both wheelspin equally gives the best acceleration, but there are handling effects to consider. I personally find in GT5 that wheelspin on the inside tyre results in more predictable handling than the outside, so I use LSD settings that slightly favour spinning the inside wheel rather that the outside wheel.


I think they're just arbitary numbers.

If Initial was "preload" (the closest real-life equivalent), it would be in Newton-metres and go up to at least 200. I guess it is possible that Accel and Decel are locking factors, but I don't believe they are (because for complete adjustability the maximum Accel value should be 100%, to replicate a 1-way diff...but I admit this is quite a weak justification).

Click to expand...

We have a winner!Good stuff dude.Diff should be easy loose or locked 1 to 100%.NOW you can get into one way diffs off power free spooling diffs.The list goes on.I r/c race so you have to know how your diffs work.Viscosity of oil in diff affect how it works also.

Playing with the Mazda Miata on sport mediums tonight and following my own LSD beliefs. Was able to greatly reduce the outside wheel spin and turn it into both wheels spin like the LSD is locked if I overdrove the car. Hp at 138, so this is not a powerful car.

Accel at 5 to turn outside wheel spin into two wheel spin.
Decel at 8 to maintain a bit of stability on entry, but not a high setting.
Kept raising the Inital to counteract the oversteer problem of the '04 Miata. Am currently at 11.

Okay so for drag racing, which settings are the best then?

How do you find out if there is wheelspin? Is it only possible to see on the left bottom corner when the little blue "cars wheels" turn red? Or is there something I miss? Can you hear that? I find it really hard...

Basilea

How do you find out if there is wheelspin? Is it only possible to see on the left bottom corner when the little blue "cars wheels" turn red? Or is there something I miss? Can you hear that? I find it really hard...

Click to expand...

I don't have my GT5 hooked up to surround sound. Does the game have surround and has anyone noticed being able to hear which speaker the tire squeal is coming from?

I primarily glance over at the wheel indicators on the lower left of the screen. You can also watch a replay, go to photo mode and walk around the car. I also use the photo mode to check camber at entry, mid corner and exit.

TT3AZ

Okay so for drag racing, which settings are the best then?

Click to expand...

I don't do drag racing in GT5 and have done zero testing. I would guess that you would want a locked diff for a few reasons. The Detroit locker and the welded diffs were invented by drag racers. Also, since you don't have to turn, or even push the car around the paddock, the LSD doesn't need to account for cornering. I would max out all settings, 60/60/60. Let me know how that works because I won't be testing. Just not into drag racing in GT5.

Basilea

How do you find out if there is wheelspin? Is it only possible to see on the left bottom corner when the little blue "cars wheels" turn red? Or is there something I miss? Can you hear that? I find it really hard...

Click to expand...

I use the tire indicator. When fine tuning the LSD, I'll over push the car, and only look at the tire indicators, without regard to where I am on the track, because it doesn't matter.

So usually, I'll enter a corner I feel is the 'focus' of the track, or tune. Enter the corner the exact way you would normally when racing, then, purposely get back to the gas early, at 25, 50, 75 and 100% throttle, and only look at the tire indicator.

See which tire heats up first, how long it takes the other to start spinning as well. Inside or outside, how controllable is the car, does it help the car turn, or make it harder to turn, etc etc.
From there I start following my method, to try and obtain the most amount of forward traction, under the earliest possible acceleration point, with the feel I like the car to have on aggressive exits.
Then make sure the LSD doesn't have any issues in contrasting corners, such as the high speed up/down hill in cape ring periphery, then check the flat tight hairpin of Suzuka, then finally, take it to Deep Forest and test it out on the mid speed high camber corner just before the tunnel.

Find your sweet spot.

Adrenaline

I use the tire indicator. When fine tuning the LSD, I'll over push the car, and only look at the tire indicators, without regard to where I am on the track, because it doesn't matter.

So usually, I'll enter a corner I feel is the 'focus' of the track, or tune. Enter the corner the exact way you would normally when racing, then, purposely get back to the gas early, at 25, 50, 75 and 100% throttle, and only look at the tire indicator.

See which tire heats up first, how long it takes the other to start spinning as well. Inside or outside, how controllable is the car, does it help the car turn, or make it harder to turn, etc etc.
From there I start following my method, to try and obtain the most amount of forward traction, under the earliest possible acceleration point, with the feel I like the car to have on aggressive exits.
Then make sure the LSD doesn't have any issues in contrasting corners, such as the high speed up/down hill in cape ring periphery, then check the flat tight hairpin of Suzuka, then finally, take it to Deep Forest and test it out on the mid speed high camber corner just before the tunnel.

Find your sweet spot.

Click to expand...

Thanks I try that! And lots of times my outside wheels spin firsts, what does this mean? Inside wheelspin tells me to set the LSD higher because it's "open" and needs to be "locked" to give both wheels power/traction, right? So if the outside wheel starts spinning first I have to lower the LSD settings or does it just tell me that my inside wheel is not in the air and therefore can't spin?

Basilea

Thanks I try that! And lots of times my outside wheels spin firsts, what does this mean? Inside wheelspin tells me to set the LSD higher because it's "open" and needs to be "locked" to give both wheels power/traction, right? So if the outside wheel starts spinning first I have to lower the LSD settings or does it just tell me that my inside wheel is not in the air and therefore can't spin?

Click to expand...

Yes. It's a balance between accel and initial. Start by lowering the accel. Then play with initial.

Motor City Hami

I don't do drag racing in GT5 and have done zero testing. I would guess that you would want a locked diff for a few reasons. The Detroit locker and the welded diffs were invented by drag racers. Also, since you don't have to turn, or even push the car around the paddock, the LSD doesn't need to account for cornering. I would max out all settings, 60/60/60. Let me know how that works because I won't be testing. Just not into drag racing in GT5.

Click to expand...

Okay man, i will try out this settings. But i have sources that says that the weight of tha car also depends how the settings are used. I will try to post some real life info about drag racing LSD, and se if i can take that into account in the game.

@Basilea: Yes, I agree with Hami, start by lowering the Accel setting to start with.
@TT3AZ: I don't think weight has any effect on LSD when it comes to drag racing. Locked should always be better.

Adrenaline

@Basilea: Yes, I agree with Hami, start by lowering the Accel setting to start with.
@TT3AZ: I don't think weight has any effect on LSD when it comes to drag racing. Locked should always be better.

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Okay thanks for your information. Regardin my question, i still find it hard to "feel" any differance going straight line, thats why i want some kind of therory to se what it says.....

TT3AZ

Okay thanks for your information. Regardin my question, i still find it hard to "feel" any differance going straight line, thats why i want some kind of therory to se what it says.....

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If the tires don't break loose, you shouldn't feel any difference between open diff and locked diff, in a straight line. If you spin the wheels launching from the line, does one wheel spin? If so, lock-er up.