- 4,229
- cambridge
- Birdy1084
out of curiosity did they have the PS4 GTsport bundle?
◆ SNAIL [Spec] Racing - Join now to win a Digit Racing EDGE Masterclass enrollment!!Open
- Thread starter zer05ive
- 150,402 comments
- 8,878,479 views
- 2,003
- New York
- OMG_mang
https://blog.eu.playstation.com/201...turismo-sport-playstation-4-console-revealed/
Currently only in Europe.
Currently only in Europe.
- 4,266
- Fort Worth/Texas
- RacingChamp30
No i could not find a bundle with GT Sport.
- 1,283
- Big Stone Gap
- Raw10_2u
- 618
- South Carolina
- ConnorWolf
I opened an unofficial practice room (edit: in the club lobby!) if anyone wants to go for a spin 
Edit2: Closed the room.
Edit2: Closed the room.
Last edited:
- 4,266
- Fort Worth/Texas
- RacingChamp30
@Mike Lobban Since wife ordered me the PS4 bundle, won't be able to play it till christmas though since it's my christmas gift but will be getting PCARS2 later this year so i race against you on track again. Was a blast racing against you, @DesertPenguin09 and still have so much fun racing against @TEX36 and so many others on GT6. See you on track soon my friend.
DesertPenguin09
(Banned)
- 7,398
- Long Island, New York
- DesertPenguin09
I'm downloading it right now and should be on in a few hours, but the CEO Ian Bell himself will admit any day of the week that PC1 controller feel was awful. They made it a mission to get it right this time and I'm seeing a lot of other discussion showing that it's better. I'll have a first hand impression later tonight.
- 4,266
- Fort Worth/Texas
- RacingChamp30
- 4,566
- Ohio
- Lessenjr
@Kgffy
OK, I can't say I spent a ton of time driving tonight, but enough to get a baseline comparison. I would absolutely say that the default pad settings are MUCH more user friendly for most folks. In PC1 I had to dial the steering waaaay down just to be manageable and even though at those settings a lot of people still felt it was too jerky, I got used to it and did rather well. So, I guess I'm a bit of a unicorn in that regard. Anyways... the stock setting in PC2 is numb, which is probably good for most folks. I also found the braking and throttle to be too linear for my taste, but there is plenty of wiggle room in the adjustments to get it dialed in to where I like it. So basically whereas the pad settings in PC one probably "bottomed out" for a lot of folks, PC2 starts at a much more reasonable baseline with plenty of wiggle room in both directions. If you like your pad steering super numb, you can have it that way. If you actually like it a bit touchy like the soft end of PC1 sensitivity, you can have it that way as well.
OK, I can't say I spent a ton of time driving tonight, but enough to get a baseline comparison. I would absolutely say that the default pad settings are MUCH more user friendly for most folks. In PC1 I had to dial the steering waaaay down just to be manageable and even though at those settings a lot of people still felt it was too jerky, I got used to it and did rather well. So, I guess I'm a bit of a unicorn in that regard. Anyways... the stock setting in PC2 is numb, which is probably good for most folks. I also found the braking and throttle to be too linear for my taste, but there is plenty of wiggle room in the adjustments to get it dialed in to where I like it. So basically whereas the pad settings in PC one probably "bottomed out" for a lot of folks, PC2 starts at a much more reasonable baseline with plenty of wiggle room in both directions. If you like your pad steering super numb, you can have it that way. If you actually like it a bit touchy like the soft end of PC1 sensitivity, you can have it that way as well.
- 4,229
- cambridge
- Birdy1084
Birdy1084 PCARS2
- 4,566
- Ohio
- Lessenjr
Alrighty gents, this has been a long time coming. Not so much the build, but the opportunity to be able to do this.
Welcome to Lessen's Rig Build
Since I tend to over-engineer on the side of caution I figured I had better do something about the resting place for the monitors. The actual pin part of shelf pins are far too shallow to support the weight of my monitors. I don't have a great photo, but the standard pins tended to lean out of their respective holes. Considering there will certainly be at least some bit of shaking when I'm driving hard I wanted to ensure my monitors wouldn't suddenly come crashing. Unfortunately I did not take detailed progress pics of the process but you can certainly see how much beefier these are. The pin itself is about an inch long and both pins actually go all the way through the doubled-up plate before welding at the front side. I then grinded that welf flat so the monitor mound would not catch the bead before resting on the shelf plate.
As is the case in most custom works, some modification was necessary. Due to doubling the thickness of the main plate I ended up with a clearance issue. The easiest fix was to router the front face a bit to back up the new pins so the monitor mound would clear the top edge and rest appropriately.
I'm not saying I'm good at this or anything...
Welcome to Lessen's Rig Build
Anything done well should start with a plan, right?
First, I want to state that I'm quite fortunate that due to our recent home construction and my own kitchen cabinet project, I have A LOT of good "scrap" that I'm utilizing for this build. My out of pocket investment is limited to a couple studs and some hardware. I have well under $100 into this simulator if I don't include the Rocketfish speaker mount kit.
Next, a simple platform.
During the design process I need to get some general idea of my preferred seating position. I will build some adjustability into the rig, but a starting point is necessary.
Pedal & seat riser assembly
At this point I'm not digging the asthetics of the risers. I'm already planning to have a nice floor and I want more of it to be seen. These risers do not need to be this wide. I'm also realizing that this platform is simply too short. I'm doing my best to work with available scrap and leftover materials here, but this won't be the first time I modify the design.
Ahhh, these widths are much better!
Striving for realism, having a nice loadcell brake pedal will certainly require a significant amount of force when tuned appropriately. The seat riser must be ultra solid. No skimping here. A total of 26 2" pocket hole screws will plunge down through the planned 1/2" thick laminate flooring and 3/4" plywood base.
Stupid router... A bit of a scary situation because I used every bit of the leftover laminate. Fortunately I can rotate the flooring and cover up this mistake with the seat riser. #gotheproperdirectiondummy
Time for adjustable pedal distance. I need the mounting bolts to slide for/aft obviously. Also, I need to be able to torque them down pretty well. The steel rod rails will keep the hex's from gouging and spinning in the wooden rail.
The end pieces are simply stoppers to keep the rods from sliding out of position.
Same idea with the seat mounts. Since the seat's side mounts have build in for/aft adjustability, these don't need that.
There's about 9 inches of total travel for the pedal riser. This build was originally intended to be a cheap temporary solution so I started building with intention to sell. Considering I now have no intentions of getting rid of this thing, some of this work may be a bit overkill albeit still a nice luxury depending how I may use it in the future.
Ahhhh, the fun stuff. Originally, the steering wheel mount was designed to have two dedicated mounting positions. One at a common 20* steering rake & the other at a kart specific 55* rake. I would eventually realize that this style of mount will not be feasible for a proper karting configuration because it ultimately puts the wheelbase in the same space as my legs. I will need a different solution in the future. The tabletop and sail pieces are quite beefy. They are 1" thick solid poplar board; a leftover stairway tread from home construction.
Shifter mount. I even matched the top contour. Quite beautiful if I do say so myself.
Ok, she's starting to take shape now. The tabletop will be home for the PC and subwoofer.
These next couple of pieces were unplanned but quite integral to the entire build. Mainly, they add massive amounts of lateral stiffness to the entire rig (it was becoming obvious it needed it). Also, they help it look nice. You may have noticed I had already cut off the forward extensions of the 2x4 framing. The steering fascia also will now act as the monitor mount. All of the visible panelings are 3/4" poplar plywood. My contractor bought one sheet ($100 yikes!) to be used for our staircase landing. They only used about 30% of it I'd say. The rest I got to keep. So I guess technically I'll be paying interest on this rig over the next 20 years... Maybe not as cheap as I thought?...
Speaking of monitors... It's about time to get these things setup. This WILL BE the trickiest part of the build. This part must be darn NEAR PERFECT and STRONG.
I missed some photos of mounting the monitors to their respective panels. It did require making some custom shims from some hard plastic spacers I found in a parts bin. I had to take great care to drill all twelve mounting holes perfectly, otherwise the monitors may not line up properly. I had to be a little creative here mocking up the positioning so I could mark the cut points of all three boards. Critical step. Triple checking everything and then triple checking again.
I knew this mount needed to be super strong otherwise it may begin to sag over time, so I planned a box joint to start. Being at a wonky angle of 39*, my dovetail jig wasn't gonna work so I had to improvise and make my own. So goes carpentry... always making tools for your tools.
The vertical dado is for the slide rail. You'll see...
Aside from smoothing the visual transition from screen to screen, another benefit of curved monitors in this application is the rather large gap at the corners. Seems like a good opportunity to brace things up a bit. Also, the overlapping of the monitors is intentional here. By doing this i've effectively halved the total width of the bezel between screens.
Ok, now it's time for a place to put that thing! I'll start off with a flat bottom hole in the fascia.
This is another stop that is crucial to the strength of the rig. This joint needs to be very tight. There won't be any screws, so it's just good 'ole fasioned pressure and wood glue. A number of good wallops with a mallet are in order here.
A pair of 16" drawer slides will allow for getting the viewport just where I need it no matter what my seating position ends up being.
The rig finally finds itself in it's home in my brand new "office". I didn't even need to shim it. Not to shabby!
Not quite naked, but not dressed to the nines either...
Ok, now it's on to the surround sound.
I'm not gonnal lie. I'm not completely happy with this placement. I've been trying to keep this rig fairly compact and although I got the rear speakers behind the seat, they are effectly more below my ears instead of "behind" me. This may get altered in the future.
Alrighty! On to the front mounts. Here's yet another step that turned out to be more indepth than orginally intended. Although the fascia panels did create a lot of rigidity in the frame of the rig, it still shimmy's a bit. It was still subject to some slight twisting forces. The need to get the front left/right speakers outboard of the frame allowed an opportunity for these speaker mounts to double as stiffeners. They effetively brace the frame from the outside, rather than the inside.
Literally, the last step of the main build. Center speaker mount and audio controller landing. Lot's of back and forth here too. I wanted to get the positioning just right so the speaker was slightly angled down, but also wasn't too far back, forward or made contact with the controller sitting beneath.
This is how she sits currently. This baby is now rock solid! By my guess, this build in its static form is only 80% complete. Eventually I will clean this up even more by laying more lightweight paneling, hardwood trim and edging. Then follow with staining and sealing. However, that probably won't happen until I finish Phase II which is the addition of motion. Personally I'm about a seat mover rather than "full motion" so this custom cockpit is a perfect application for such a modification. I've always wanted have a simulator with "traction loss", but the weight of this rig could likely kill that idea. At any rate, even a properly setup and dialed in seat mover will be a tremendous addition to the immersion this rig wil bring me.
Thanks for reading and I hope to see some of ya on track soon!
First, I want to state that I'm quite fortunate that due to our recent home construction and my own kitchen cabinet project, I have A LOT of good "scrap" that I'm utilizing for this build. My out of pocket investment is limited to a couple studs and some hardware. I have well under $100 into this simulator if I don't include the Rocketfish speaker mount kit.
Next, a simple platform.
During the design process I need to get some general idea of my preferred seating position. I will build some adjustability into the rig, but a starting point is necessary.
Pedal & seat riser assembly
At this point I'm not digging the asthetics of the risers. I'm already planning to have a nice floor and I want more of it to be seen. These risers do not need to be this wide. I'm also realizing that this platform is simply too short. I'm doing my best to work with available scrap and leftover materials here, but this won't be the first time I modify the design.
Ahhh, these widths are much better!
Striving for realism, having a nice loadcell brake pedal will certainly require a significant amount of force when tuned appropriately. The seat riser must be ultra solid. No skimping here. A total of 26 2" pocket hole screws will plunge down through the planned 1/2" thick laminate flooring and 3/4" plywood base.
Stupid router... A bit of a scary situation because I used every bit of the leftover laminate. Fortunately I can rotate the flooring and cover up this mistake with the seat riser. #gotheproperdirectiondummy
Time for adjustable pedal distance. I need the mounting bolts to slide for/aft obviously. Also, I need to be able to torque them down pretty well. The steel rod rails will keep the hex's from gouging and spinning in the wooden rail.
The end pieces are simply stoppers to keep the rods from sliding out of position.
Same idea with the seat mounts. Since the seat's side mounts have build in for/aft adjustability, these don't need that.
There's about 9 inches of total travel for the pedal riser. This build was originally intended to be a cheap temporary solution so I started building with intention to sell. Considering I now have no intentions of getting rid of this thing, some of this work may be a bit overkill albeit still a nice luxury depending how I may use it in the future.
Ahhhh, the fun stuff. Originally, the steering wheel mount was designed to have two dedicated mounting positions. One at a common 20* steering rake & the other at a kart specific 55* rake. I would eventually realize that this style of mount will not be feasible for a proper karting configuration because it ultimately puts the wheelbase in the same space as my legs. I will need a different solution in the future. The tabletop and sail pieces are quite beefy. They are 1" thick solid poplar board; a leftover stairway tread from home construction.
Shifter mount. I even matched the top contour. Quite beautiful if I do say so myself.
Ok, she's starting to take shape now. The tabletop will be home for the PC and subwoofer.
These next couple of pieces were unplanned but quite integral to the entire build. Mainly, they add massive amounts of lateral stiffness to the entire rig (it was becoming obvious it needed it). Also, they help it look nice. You may have noticed I had already cut off the forward extensions of the 2x4 framing. The steering fascia also will now act as the monitor mount. All of the visible panelings are 3/4" poplar plywood. My contractor bought one sheet ($100 yikes!) to be used for our staircase landing. They only used about 30% of it I'd say. The rest I got to keep. So I guess technically I'll be paying interest on this rig over the next 20 years... Maybe not as cheap as I thought?...
Speaking of monitors... It's about time to get these things setup. This WILL BE the trickiest part of the build. This part must be darn NEAR PERFECT and STRONG.
I missed some photos of mounting the monitors to their respective panels. It did require making some custom shims from some hard plastic spacers I found in a parts bin. I had to take great care to drill all twelve mounting holes perfectly, otherwise the monitors may not line up properly. I had to be a little creative here mocking up the positioning so I could mark the cut points of all three boards. Critical step. Triple checking everything and then triple checking again.
I knew this mount needed to be super strong otherwise it may begin to sag over time, so I planned a box joint to start. Being at a wonky angle of 39*, my dovetail jig wasn't gonna work so I had to improvise and make my own. So goes carpentry... always making tools for your tools.
The vertical dado is for the slide rail. You'll see...
Aside from smoothing the visual transition from screen to screen, another benefit of curved monitors in this application is the rather large gap at the corners. Seems like a good opportunity to brace things up a bit. Also, the overlapping of the monitors is intentional here. By doing this i've effectively halved the total width of the bezel between screens.
Ok, now it's time for a place to put that thing! I'll start off with a flat bottom hole in the fascia.
This is another stop that is crucial to the strength of the rig. This joint needs to be very tight. There won't be any screws, so it's just good 'ole fasioned pressure and wood glue. A number of good wallops with a mallet are in order here.
A pair of 16" drawer slides will allow for getting the viewport just where I need it no matter what my seating position ends up being.
The rig finally finds itself in it's home in my brand new "office". I didn't even need to shim it. Not to shabby!
Not quite naked, but not dressed to the nines either...
Ok, now it's on to the surround sound.
I'm not gonnal lie. I'm not completely happy with this placement. I've been trying to keep this rig fairly compact and although I got the rear speakers behind the seat, they are effectly more below my ears instead of "behind" me. This may get altered in the future.
Alrighty! On to the front mounts. Here's yet another step that turned out to be more indepth than orginally intended. Although the fascia panels did create a lot of rigidity in the frame of the rig, it still shimmy's a bit. It was still subject to some slight twisting forces. The need to get the front left/right speakers outboard of the frame allowed an opportunity for these speaker mounts to double as stiffeners. They effetively brace the frame from the outside, rather than the inside.
Literally, the last step of the main build. Center speaker mount and audio controller landing. Lot's of back and forth here too. I wanted to get the positioning just right so the speaker was slightly angled down, but also wasn't too far back, forward or made contact with the controller sitting beneath.
This is how she sits currently. This baby is now rock solid! By my guess, this build in its static form is only 80% complete. Eventually I will clean this up even more by laying more lightweight paneling, hardwood trim and edging. Then follow with staining and sealing. However, that probably won't happen until I finish Phase II which is the addition of motion. Personally I'm about a seat mover rather than "full motion" so this custom cockpit is a perfect application for such a modification. I've always wanted have a simulator with "traction loss", but the weight of this rig could likely kill that idea. At any rate, even a properly setup and dialed in seat mover will be a tremendous addition to the immersion this rig wil bring me.
Thanks for reading and I hope to see some of ya on track soon!
Since the rig isn't really based off of a traditional desk type structure I do not have any convenient flat surfaces within reach for anything. You know, the normal stuff... cell phone, chapstick, beer, keyboard, beer, notepad or even beer. I felt having a place for my keyboard (other than between the seat riser and side sills) would be hella convenient, especially since I do not have any sort of button box.
Some more leftover poplar board and a small piece of underlayment. Light and plenty sturdy for this small all-in-one wireless keyboard mousepad.
Mount coming soon...
Alrighty... This may be difficult to visualize, but here I'm making a set of pivoting slides. Basically, (if this works) the keyboard will store beneath my left monitor horizontally with no portion of the entire aparatus protruding forward of the face of the monitor. This sill ease entry/exit of the cockpit significantly. Then the tray will slide forward and down at a steep angle such that all the keys are facing me and provide easy to access (as a button box). Also, (insert another "if this works") the tray will prop up making the keyboard rest at a more natural angle for typing.
Some more leftover poplar board and a small piece of underlayment. Light and plenty sturdy for this small all-in-one wireless keyboard mousepad.
Mount coming soon...
Alrighty... This may be difficult to visualize, but here I'm making a set of pivoting slides. Basically, (if this works) the keyboard will store beneath my left monitor horizontally with no portion of the entire aparatus protruding forward of the face of the monitor. This sill ease entry/exit of the cockpit significantly. Then the tray will slide forward and down at a steep angle such that all the keys are facing me and provide easy to access (as a button box). Also, (insert another "if this works") the tray will prop up making the keyboard rest at a more natural angle for typing.
Since I tend to over-engineer on the side of caution I figured I had better do something about the resting place for the monitors. The actual pin part of shelf pins are far too shallow to support the weight of my monitors. I don't have a great photo, but the standard pins tended to lean out of their respective holes. Considering there will certainly be at least some bit of shaking when I'm driving hard I wanted to ensure my monitors wouldn't suddenly come crashing. Unfortunately I did not take detailed progress pics of the process but you can certainly see how much beefier these are. The pin itself is about an inch long and both pins actually go all the way through the doubled-up plate before welding at the front side. I then grinded that welf flat so the monitor mound would not catch the bead before resting on the shelf plate.
As is the case in most custom works, some modification was necessary. Due to doubling the thickness of the main plate I ended up with a clearance issue. The easiest fix was to router the front face a bit to back up the new pins so the monitor mound would clear the top edge and rest appropriately.
I'm not saying I'm good at this or anything...
Last edited:
DesertPenguin09
(Banned)
- 7,398
- Long Island, New York
- DesertPenguin09
Seriously, how much money do you want to make one for me without the tv attachment parts?
- 4,566
- Ohio
- Lessenjr
Well... one, I'm not in a position to do that at the moment. Now that it's usable, I need to be all hands on deck with my kitchen. Two, and being competely serious, it would be far cheaper to purchase a mass-produced rig. Done properly, an item like this is just as much a piece of fine handcrafted furniture as it is a gaming center. Take a stroll through your local fine furniture gallery and you'll get a better idea of what a fair price would be. Thanks for the interest though. I'm sure there is a niche market for those [wives?] who would rather a gaming armoire over a rollcage in the house.
DesertPenguin09
(Banned)
- 7,398
- Long Island, New York
- DesertPenguin09
Hey, Ricmotech started somewhere. I bet he used those original templates for close friends and then realized he could sell his idea. My rig is coming along nicely but when you have yours built from the ground up it looks more "dedicated" to it's purpose y'know?
- 4,266
- Fort Worth/Texas
- RacingChamp30
- 2,289
- Ontario
- MajorBlixem
- 3,271
- Sweetwater, Tx
- TEX-36
Suggestion on the Kart Combo:
Regarding the glare from all the lights.
In the On-Track Option Menu, turn down the Exposure Setting.
Mine seems best at -0.5.
Also: Kart Combo will be a One Make Race.
Regarding the glare from all the lights.
In the On-Track Option Menu, turn down the Exposure Setting.
Mine seems best at -0.5.
Also: Kart Combo will be a One Make Race.
Vegasracer
(Banned)
- 150
- United States
- Bloombe
Anyone racing now or soon?
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