5 Best RWD Cars under 10K
- Thread starter LeadFootLiam
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Joey D
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- GTP_Joey
- GTP Joey
it's pretty clear there are a couple people here that don't know what good handling is. Those big American cars were crap when they were new, they're even worse now. I owned a '82 Oldsmobile Delta 88 and it was like piloting a freighter with a busted rudder. There's nothing nimble about them, or really anything good. As for good RWD cars that presumably someone who is just going to start driving, probably a 1st gen Miata. They don't have a ton of power so you really can't get in trouble with them and I assume it's pretty easy to find parts for them. Although you'll probably end up paying autocross tax on it. I'm not sure what the insurance is on them in Canada, but in the US they're fairly reasonable for a sports car.
E28
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- Sofa
Class is mostly opinion, I can't think of many things worse than a floppy, underpowered, oversized 'Made in America' landyatch. The OP isn't looking for a comfortable, luxurious car, and I'd rather spend a long journey in any modern European executive saloon than your Buick Yatch de Vile. Also, an E36 M3 could probably survive in a Demolition Derby longer than any of your mentioned cars, because it would be able to avoid getting hit, instead of flopping about. There's also a lot less of it too hit.
- 4,213
- Puerto Rico
- motortrend
E36 M3. /thread
EDIT: Seems I've Been tree'd a few times
EDIT 2: on the topic Of bimmer reliability, from my experience with the e39, you can keep it running for a Very long time without changing a thing but it will be running like crap. BMW ownership costs come down to how good you want the condition of your car to be and your DIY abilities.
EDIT: Seems I've Been tree'd a few times
EDIT 2: on the topic Of bimmer reliability, from my experience with the e39, you can keep it running for a Very long time without changing a thing but it will be running like crap. BMW ownership costs come down to how good you want the condition of your car to be and your DIY abilities.
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- 688
- Sydney
No you don't want a z3. Particularly the automatic. It takes several seconds between changes that it just lacks the idea of a fun rear wheel drive car.
- 5,303
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- GTP_Leonidae_MFT
- 4,209
- Wasilla, AK
Collected and distilled hearsay, guesses, and opinions:
The Porsche 944 fulfills all the given criteria, and I've heard you can get them at amazingly cheap prices from people who fear replacement parts costs. I've seen them running in LeMons where the budget limit is $500, so I doubt a good one would cost $10k. The earlier, narrower, less powerful, but very similar 924 would probably be similar, but the less-powerful models could be easily beaten by just about anything, including my stupid old Pontiac Sunbird.
The Mazda Miata is probably a good choice, but no matter what anyone says, it is a bit of a hairdresser's car.
The BMW Z3 and Mercedes-Benz SLK230 are heavier and more powerful, but overall probably not as fun as a Miata, and probably less manly as well (particularly the Mercedes, which contemporary reviews say is peaky and laggy despite using a supercharger in place of a turbocharger).
The BMWs are decent cars, and the E30s were at one point a generic "we came to win, not to to have fun" car in LeMons races, thanks to its light weight and well-sorted RWD chassis. Those same races did, however, show an extremely high electircal-system failure rate, with many, many E30 teams stuck in the pits trying to find highly elusive problems. Granted, the non-safety budget limit means those teams were using some of the worst E30s out there, but I'd be sure the electrical system was working correctly if I were going to buy one.
The E36es, meanwhile, are larger, heavier, more powerful, and, from what I've heard, less reliable. It's probably easier to find an E36 M3 than an E30 M3 however, and when you do, it'll have something nicer-sounding (not to mention torquier and more powerful) than a 4cyl under the hood. All depends on what you want.
The C4 Corvette is an interesting idea, haven't seen too many of them around. The advantage there is a large-displacement engine that's been around in some form (and very common) since 1955, so an incredible number of speed parts exist for it and it can make big power easily. Inspect and test drive it very carefully as it was probably abused by at least one of its previous owners.
I wouldn't trust a C3. It could either be abused or pampered, depending on who owned it, and it won't be fast either way. Any faster (late-60s early-70s) version you can get for under $10K would be highly suspect IMO.
One car I've thought of at times is the Pontiac Fiero, which has a lot going for it. The engine is mid-mounted, and if you get the V6, it's got plenty of power (135hp goes a long way in a car that light). Parts are cheap and everywhere, the V6 is bulletproof, and it handles decently. Demerits? The interior isn't particularly comfortable or pretty, and if you're like most longtime GTP members that'll disqualify it for you right there. The engine is crammed in fairly tight, so working on it probably won't be easy (then again, people have crammed V8s into them before, so there must be some space to spare). Finally, you have to get specific: only an '88 model will do. The 84-87 models had Chevette (or Citation, I don't remember which) suspension components, and the V6 models from those years used 4-speed manual transmissions, since GM didn't have a 5-speed with sufficient torque-handling capability. Finally, I'm not sure how many people know this, but the Fiero Formula is both slightly faster and slightly cheaper than the Fiero GT. I think it looks better to boot, but that's preference.
Stay away from any muscle car not called "Corvette C4" made between about 1973-1974 and 1990, it'll probably be worn out and slow to start with. The later Fox-body Mustangs were decent cars and also have plenty of available upgrades, but the 3rd gen F-bodies are not something I would recommend as a first car. They're slow and lack aftermarket support unless you get one of the later 350 CID variants, and those were never avaialbe with manual transmission.
The Porsche 944 fulfills all the given criteria, and I've heard you can get them at amazingly cheap prices from people who fear replacement parts costs. I've seen them running in LeMons where the budget limit is $500, so I doubt a good one would cost $10k. The earlier, narrower, less powerful, but very similar 924 would probably be similar, but the less-powerful models could be easily beaten by just about anything, including my stupid old Pontiac Sunbird.
The Mazda Miata is probably a good choice, but no matter what anyone says, it is a bit of a hairdresser's car.
The BMW Z3 and Mercedes-Benz SLK230 are heavier and more powerful, but overall probably not as fun as a Miata, and probably less manly as well (particularly the Mercedes, which contemporary reviews say is peaky and laggy despite using a supercharger in place of a turbocharger).
The BMWs are decent cars, and the E30s were at one point a generic "we came to win, not to to have fun" car in LeMons races, thanks to its light weight and well-sorted RWD chassis. Those same races did, however, show an extremely high electircal-system failure rate, with many, many E30 teams stuck in the pits trying to find highly elusive problems. Granted, the non-safety budget limit means those teams were using some of the worst E30s out there, but I'd be sure the electrical system was working correctly if I were going to buy one.
The E36es, meanwhile, are larger, heavier, more powerful, and, from what I've heard, less reliable. It's probably easier to find an E36 M3 than an E30 M3 however, and when you do, it'll have something nicer-sounding (not to mention torquier and more powerful) than a 4cyl under the hood. All depends on what you want.
The C4 Corvette is an interesting idea, haven't seen too many of them around. The advantage there is a large-displacement engine that's been around in some form (and very common) since 1955, so an incredible number of speed parts exist for it and it can make big power easily. Inspect and test drive it very carefully as it was probably abused by at least one of its previous owners.
I wouldn't trust a C3. It could either be abused or pampered, depending on who owned it, and it won't be fast either way. Any faster (late-60s early-70s) version you can get for under $10K would be highly suspect IMO.
One car I've thought of at times is the Pontiac Fiero, which has a lot going for it. The engine is mid-mounted, and if you get the V6, it's got plenty of power (135hp goes a long way in a car that light). Parts are cheap and everywhere, the V6 is bulletproof, and it handles decently. Demerits? The interior isn't particularly comfortable or pretty, and if you're like most longtime GTP members that'll disqualify it for you right there. The engine is crammed in fairly tight, so working on it probably won't be easy (then again, people have crammed V8s into them before, so there must be some space to spare). Finally, you have to get specific: only an '88 model will do. The 84-87 models had Chevette (or Citation, I don't remember which) suspension components, and the V6 models from those years used 4-speed manual transmissions, since GM didn't have a 5-speed with sufficient torque-handling capability. Finally, I'm not sure how many people know this, but the Fiero Formula is both slightly faster and slightly cheaper than the Fiero GT. I think it looks better to boot, but that's preference.
Stay away from any muscle car not called "Corvette C4" made between about 1973-1974 and 1990, it'll probably be worn out and slow to start with. The later Fox-body Mustangs were decent cars and also have plenty of available upgrades, but the 3rd gen F-bodies are not something I would recommend as a first car. They're slow and lack aftermarket support unless you get one of the later 350 CID variants, and those were never avaialbe with manual transmission.
McLaren
Premium
- 45,217
- Texas
One participated in the Alcan Winter Rally last year despite being one of the more unreasonable choices & yet, the most reliable of the entire entry list.
http://www.autoweek.com/article/20120315/carnews01/120319893
- 2,380
- livonia/mi/usa
- jc18137
My 1t choice, as it is a newer car and a pretty fun sports car. It is easy to find in low miles, and you may even be able to buy it at a dealer and pay in payments. I've seen them cheaper than this.
350z
http://victoria.en.craigslist.ca/cto/3714027150.html
A newer miata will offer little to no problems, just basic maintanence.
http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/bnc/cto/3676809747.html
E36's as everyone has said.
http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/rds/cto/3768917890.html
An FD3S, though they are a pain to maintain. You have to be a serious enthusiast to appreciate one. Luckily, there is a cheap R1 near you.
http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/rds/cto/3738339211.html
Finally, why wouldn't someone buy a rwd Skyline, they are cheap and lovely, and damn common now a day's in CA.
http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/rds/cto/3639289476.html
350z
http://victoria.en.craigslist.ca/cto/3714027150.html
A newer miata will offer little to no problems, just basic maintanence.
http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/bnc/cto/3676809747.html
E36's as everyone has said.
http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/rds/cto/3768917890.html
An FD3S, though they are a pain to maintain. You have to be a serious enthusiast to appreciate one. Luckily, there is a cheap R1 near you.
http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/rds/cto/3738339211.html
Finally, why wouldn't someone buy a rwd Skyline, they are cheap and lovely, and damn common now a day's in CA.
http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/rds/cto/3639289476.html
- 4,209
- Wasilla, AK
Oh, and two more things in case you do somehow find a Fiero you like. They are somewhat finnicky, in strange ways. First, you still have to add coolant at the front. Apparently there's a place at the back where you can add coolant, but if you add it there you won't like the results. Also, the pipes that carry the coolant to the engine are easily crushed, so make sure you edumacate yourself on the proper procedure before you put it on a lift (if you ever do). It's old enough now that even dealers sometimes forget how to lift it.
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- GTP_Leonidae_MFT
Miata? Manly? Since when has that been a defining factor when looking for best drivers car? And by what definition of manly are we going here? All I see are your biased opinions and hearsay. Also.. Lag? In a supercharged car? Seriously?
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- 6,041
- Puget Sound
- Crash852
You want anything that is slow, safe and sensible. It's your first car, and as cool as it is to have a ton of power, you are probably better off with a slower car.
E36 M3s are fun, but I would never recommend that to a new 16 year old driver. Not to mention insurance cost will probably be through the roof on one of those.
So a Corolla, Civic or Protege type vehicles.
E30s are great ways of getting into RWD cars. The E30 definitely feels more a like a go kart compared to an E36. However, the problem isn't finding a good E30, it's finding a reasonably priced E30 that is still in good condition. At least in the US, a good condition E30 will now set you back $4-6k. E30 has been scene taxed beyond crazy.
As another BMW owner, I certainly agree with this assessment.
The thing is, they do have scary replacement parts cost. 944 parts are still Porsche priced.
Oh, and the base 944s are dog-gone slow. Incredibly fun and nice handling, but very sllloooowwww.
If you want a fun, cheap, RWD sports car, the Miata is always a good choice. If you are too worried about how people view you and your car, then you can get a S2000, unless you're 16, then it's a bad idea because you'll probably just destroy it.
E30 electrical system is generally fairly robust. Those cars don't actually have a lot of fancy electronics to break, and the systems are separated fairly well, so even a few electrical issues here and there won't necessarily mean the car can't run anymore.
I think like you said, it's more the absolutely crappiest E30s get ran in LeMons races that's showing these electrical issues.
An E30 M3 is way out of his price range. An E30 M3 can be had for $10k minimum for a barely running one, yes, but they really are $18k+ cars. You're going to be spending the money either in repairs or buying a good one off the bat.
E36 M3s are fun, but I would never recommend that to a new 16 year old driver. Not to mention insurance cost will probably be through the roof on one of those.
So a Corolla, Civic or Protege type vehicles.
E30s are great ways of getting into RWD cars. The E30 definitely feels more a like a go kart compared to an E36. However, the problem isn't finding a good E30, it's finding a reasonably priced E30 that is still in good condition. At least in the US, a good condition E30 will now set you back $4-6k. E30 has been scene taxed beyond crazy.
As another BMW owner, I certainly agree with this assessment.
The thing is, they do have scary replacement parts cost. 944 parts are still Porsche priced.
Oh, and the base 944s are dog-gone slow. Incredibly fun and nice handling, but very sllloooowwww.
If you want a fun, cheap, RWD sports car, the Miata is always a good choice. If you are too worried about how people view you and your car, then you can get a S2000, unless you're 16, then it's a bad idea because you'll probably just destroy it.
E30 electrical system is generally fairly robust. Those cars don't actually have a lot of fancy electronics to break, and the systems are separated fairly well, so even a few electrical issues here and there won't necessarily mean the car can't run anymore.
I think like you said, it's more the absolutely crappiest E30s get ran in LeMons races that's showing these electrical issues.
An E30 M3 is way out of his price range. An E30 M3 can be had for $10k minimum for a barely running one, yes, but they really are $18k+ cars. You're going to be spending the money either in repairs or buying a good one off the bat.
- 4,213
- Puerto Rico
- motortrend
I'm pretty sure centrifugal superchargers are like single turbo cars Boost pressure wise as RPMs rise, though there is no lag with the exhaust gases, but maybe the RPM "lag" is what he meant.
- 4,209
- Wasilla, AK
I don't know. All I know is, most reviewers said it took quite some time for the boost to come up, and as a result the car was rather slow.
Also, it's probably heavier than even the Z3.
- 2,833
- Colorado
- GTP_Cyborg
I've got the August '11 issues of Super Street in front of me, in which they did a feature on the 10 best project cars for under $10k. Finding one of these stock and in good condition without the intent to modify still provides a fun drive.
Taking out the FWD's:
'84-87 Corolla GT-S
'89-98 240SX
'89-96 Eclipse GSX/Talon TSi
'90-97 Miata
'92-96 SC 300/400
'02-04 WRX
'90-96 300ZX TT
Taking out the FWD's:
'84-87 Corolla GT-S
'89-98 240SX
'89-96 Eclipse GSX/Talon TSi
'90-97 Miata
'92-96 SC 300/400
'02-04 WRX
'90-96 300ZX TT
- 5,303
- Riverside, Ca
- GTP_Leonidae_MFT
Did the reviewers test manual or auto? That would alone explain the lacking acceleration. But, alas, R170 SLK 230 Kompressor is slightly heavier than equally powerful Z3 2.8i manual, and it could be that it feels slower because it doesn't sound fast. Then again M-B has 6-speed transmission against BMW's 5-speed. Also, SLK has slight torque advantage.
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