Assetto corsa coming to PS4 and Xbox one

[FPV MIC]

I made an interesting discovery the other day. Some of you may have already worked this out, but for those who haven't, this might be useful information.

I've noticed in AC that some cars have horrendous snap oversteer under brakes, like an unrealistic amount, not just lift-off oversteer. The first few days that I played it I didn't care too much, because I wasn't messing about with setups much, I was just trying out different cars to see how they felt mostly.

However, the other day I was messing about with setting some cars up for different tracks, and just generally finding how dramatic a difference I could make to the cars' behaviour with setup changes. One combination I tried was the Lotus 25 at Brands Hatch. The 25 here had a shocking tendency to snap into oversteer in the braking zones, and even after adjusting the setup the car was still doing the same thing. I noticed that the setup changes I'd made had affected the car's attitude in a predictable way in everything but braking, where it still exhibited the exact same violent snap oversteer. I even tried going extreme with the setup to see what effect that would have: The car was an understeering lump with this setup (as it should have been), but still under braking, even in a straight line, the car would snap into oversteer suddenly.

I was scratching my head for a moment over this, because it didn't feel right. The way it was behaving wasn't realistic to begin with, but the way the setup changes had affected the car in a predictable and realistic way in all other conditions, but the car still had this reaction when I was braking for a corner. I went back to a good setup, and just ran lap after lap, adjusting my driving to see what was causing it. I don't know how I'd missed it before, but the sudden snapping was happening on downshifts, specifically when the shift had been completed. Now because I don't have a shifter, so I have to use the paddles, I use auto clutch and auto blip. After noticing it wasn't actually the braking itself, but the downshifting that was causing the issue, I noticed the throttle blip on downshifts was very small, even when braking hard into a corner and shifting right on the threshold, the blip was the same as it was when downshifting when coasting. It didn't seem to be giving it enough throttle between shifts.

So I quit the session, and went back into it, this time turning off auto clutch and auto blip. I ran a couple of laps to get used to the clutch (using a clutch with paddles feels so foreign to me, hence why I don't normally do it lol). Once I had a feel for it, I tried doing a fast lap and downshifting without rev matching, and the back-end snapped hard, just like with the auto clutch and auto blip turned on. So after doing this a few times to make sure it was definitely the cause of this behaviour, I started rev matching manually on downshifts, and this solved the problem completely.

Since I'm comfortable with hell-toe downshifts in real cars (been doing it since I was a kid), the rev matching in game was an automatic reflex. I could match the revs perfectly with every downshift. But interestingly, the amount I would blip the throttle without even thinking about it was a lot more than the game's auto blip, which barely touched the throttle on downshifts. I've since noticed that in many cars the auto blip is enough to keep the car in check, but some, like the 25, the auto blip is just way off, and it's causing a compression lockup when you're downshifting at the threshold on corner entry.

You can avoid it by braking longer before you downshift, and keeping the shifts low in the rev range, but this will lose you a lot of potential lap time. I've noticed that you can manually blip the throttle even when auto clutch and auto blip are turned on, so you can keep them both on, and just manually blip the throttle to match the revs on aggressive downshifts, and it eliminates this nasty snap oversteer a bunch of cars have.

Anyway, sorry about the long winded explanation, I'm not even sure if I worded it all as well as I could have lol, but I hope that helps some people.

I've been wondering for a while now if this had been the issue I was having a while back doing a BMW hotlap challenge but as I only have one leg, I couldn't test the theory. Thanks for that information (especially the bit about manually blipping the throttle even when auto clutch and auto blip are turned on), it'll be very useful in the future.

 

[killerjimbag]

Nice information mate , now if someone plays with a stick/DS4, it would need clutch button to heel/toe manually ( throttle blip ), is the clutch button in the button map preset for DS4 ? Maybe you can look at the control setup screen ?

Did you just say ,heal toe with a DS4? Uhm that would be pretty hard to use your heal and toe with a controller. Did you get a PS4 yet?

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Did you just say ,heal toe with a DS4? Uhm that would be pretty hard to use your heal and toe with a controller. Did you get a PS4 yet?

It's possible to heel/toe on DS2/DS3/DS4, I have been doing that since PS2 days ( D1 GP 2005/2006 games which requires clutch use like in real life ) - including clutch kick. I also can manually blip throttle in GT6 when downshifting - using my thumb - brake with square and gas with cross - left foot brake with either L2 or R2 - busy fingers, very handy for loose setup cars under braking BTW, I also use clutch with DS2 on LFS, Nascar 2003 etc

No, I haven't got PS4, may buy AC first before the console

 

[killerjimbag]

It's possible to heel/toe on DS2/DS3/DS4, I have been doing that since PS2 days ( D1 GP 2005/2006 games which requires clutch use like in real life ) - including clutch kick. I also can manually blip throttle in GT6 when downshifting - using my thumb - brake with square and gas with cross - left foot brake with either L2 or R2 - busy fingers, very handy for loose setup cars under braking

No, I haven't got PS4, may buy AC first before the console

Have you actually gone to the controller setup page? From your previous posts,it seems you can't find the game in your region. Why would you buy a game with no system to play it? Kinda like buying gas and not having a car?

 

[ALB123]

I made an interesting discovery the other day. Some of you may have already worked this out, but for those who haven't, this might be useful information.

I've noticed in AC that some cars have horrendous snap oversteer under brakes, like an unrealistic amount, not just lift-off oversteer. The first few days that I played it I didn't care too much, because I wasn't messing about with setups much, I was just trying out different cars to see how they felt mostly.

However, the other day I was messing about with setting some cars up for different tracks, and just generally finding how dramatic a difference I could make to the cars' behaviour with setup changes. One combination I tried was the Lotus 25 at Brands Hatch. The 25 here had a shocking tendency to snap into oversteer in the braking zones, and even after adjusting the setup the car was still doing the same thing. I noticed that the setup changes I'd made had affected the car's attitude in a predictable way in everything but braking, where it still exhibited the exact same violent snap oversteer. I even tried going extreme with the setup to see what effect that would have: The car was an understeering lump with this setup (as it should have been), but still under braking, even in a straight line, the car would snap into oversteer suddenly.

I was scratching my head for a moment over this, because it didn't feel right. The way it was behaving wasn't realistic to begin with, but the way the setup changes had affected the car in a predictable and realistic way in all other conditions, but the car still had this reaction when I was braking for a corner. I went back to a good setup, and just ran lap after lap, adjusting my driving to see what was causing it. I don't know how I'd missed it before, but the sudden snapping was happening on downshifts, specifically when the shift had been completed. Now because I don't have a shifter, so I have to use the paddles, I use auto clutch and auto blip. After noticing it wasn't actually the braking itself, but the downshifting that was causing the issue, I noticed the throttle blip on downshifts was very small, even when braking hard into a corner and shifting right on the threshold, the blip was the same as it was when downshifting when coasting. It didn't seem to be giving it enough throttle between shifts.

So I quit the session, and went back into it, this time turning off auto clutch and auto blip. I ran a couple of laps to get used to the clutch (using a clutch with paddles feels so foreign to me, hence why I don't normally do it lol). Once I had a feel for it, I tried doing a fast lap and downshifting without rev matching, and the back-end snapped hard, just like with the auto clutch and auto blip turned on. So after doing this a few times to make sure it was definitely the cause of this behaviour, I started rev matching manually on downshifts, and this solved the problem completely.

Since I'm comfortable with hell-toe downshifts in real cars (been doing it since I was a kid), the rev matching in game was an automatic reflex. I could match the revs perfectly with every downshift. But interestingly, the amount I would blip the throttle without even thinking about it was a lot more than the game's auto blip, which barely touched the throttle on downshifts. I've since noticed that in many cars the auto blip is enough to keep the car in check, but some, like the 25, the auto blip is just way off, and it's causing a compression lockup when you're downshifting at the threshold on corner entry.

You can avoid it by braking longer before you downshift, and keeping the shifts low in the rev range, but this will lose you a lot of potential lap time. I've noticed that you can manually blip the throttle even when auto clutch and auto blip are turned on, so you can keep them both on, and just manually blip the throttle to match the revs on aggressive downshifts, and it eliminates this nasty snap oversteer a bunch of cars have.

Anyway, sorry about the long winded explanation, I'm not even sure if I worded it all as well as I could have lol, but I hope that helps some people.

Very interesting that you've noticed this on the Lotus 25! I'll take mine out on Brands Hatch today to see what kind of behavior I get. It's funny that you brought this up. I'm glad you did, so the console players could see, but I say it's funny because I was just talking about this the other day. I don't know if it was here on GTP or one of the other forums I visit.

[DIFFERENTIAL]
POWER=0.40            ; differential lock under power. 1.0=100% lock - 0 0% lock
COAST=0.40            ; differential lock under coasting. 1.0=100% lock 0=0% lock
PRELOAD=0            ; preload torque setting

[GEARBOX]
CHANGE_UP_TIME=260        ; change up time in milliseconds
CHANGE_DN_TIME=275        ; change down time in milliseconds
AUTO_CUTOFF_TIME=250        ; Auto cutoff time for upshifts in milliseconds, 0 to disable
SUPPORTS_SHIFTER=1        ; 1=Car supports shifter, 0=car supports only paddles
VALID_SHIFT_RPM_WINDOW=500            ;range window additional to the precise rev matching rpm that permits gear engage.
CONTROLS_WINDOW_GAIN=0.2            ;multiplayer for gas,brake,clutch pedals that permits gear engage on different rev matching rpm. the lower the more difficult.
INERTIA=0.0182                    ; gearbox inertia. default values to 0.02 if not set

[CLUTCH]
MAX_TORQUE=450

[AUTOCLUTCH]
UPSHIFT_PROFILE=UPSHIFT_PROFILE            ; Name of the autoclutch profile for upshifts. NONE to disable autoclutch on shift up
DOWNSHIFT_PROFILE=DOWNSHIFT_PROFILE    ; Same as above for downshifts
USE_ON_CHANGES=0                ; Use the autoclutch on gear shifts even when autoclutch is set to off. Needed for cars with semiautomatic gearboxes. values 1,0
MIN_RPM=1200                    ; Minimum rpm for autoclutch engadgement
MAX_RPM=1800                    ; Maximum rpm for autoclutch engadgement

[UPSHIFT_PROFILE]
POINT_0=29                ; Time to reach fully depress clutch
POINT_1=78                ; Time to start releasing clutch
POINT_2=164                ; Time to reach fully released clutch

[DOWNSHIFT_PROFILE]
POINT_0=30                ; Time to reach fully depress clutch
POINT_1=79                ; Time to start releasing clutch
POINT_2=176                ; Time to reach fully released clutch

[AUTOBLIP]
ELECTRONIC=0                ; If =1 then it is a feature of the car and cannot be disabled
POINT_0=20                ; Time to reach full level
POINT_1=100                ; Time to start releasing gas
POINT_2=200            ; Time to reach 0 gas
LEVEL=0.8                ; Gas level to be reached

[AUTO_SHIFTER]
UP=6750
DOWN=3900
SLIP_THRESHOLD=0.95
GAS_CUTOFF_TIME=0.27

[DAMAGE]
RPM_WINDOW_K=100

I have taken this from a user created mod car - not exactly the highest quality car, but one I will drive on occasion. Anyway, I've run into problems with some cars, but they've always been mod cars - not Kunos cars - when I would shift with my DFGT paddles the RPMs would shoot to red line. This was on upshifting. I started poking around in this file and a couple of others and I was able to "fix" it to my satisfaction. I think the car was a mid 80s BMW M5 now that I think about it...

Anyway, I have also experienced what you're talking about as well and I used the same solution that you came up with originally. Ride the brakes long enough to have the engine speed drop to a low enough RPM where I could downshift without getting that violent snap from the rear-end.

In my case, I don't believe I've ever experienced it with a Kunos car, however, I may have. I don't have the traits of every car memorized so I'm not trying to say they're all perfect on the PC. I'm sure the Lotus 25 was carried over to console with the same exact data as is on PC. I'm going to test it out.

I've heard some people suggest turning off Auto-Clutch, but leaving Auto-Blip on. Obviously, a Lotus 25 was made for stick-shift & clutch use, not flappy pedal use. However, there HAS TO be code in the car setup files to facilitate flappy paddle drivers like me who don't have a clutch and/or stick-shift AND game pad players. The idea of having to assign a clutch to a game pad button in pretty insane, in my opinion.

What you're experiencing needs to be fixed. The car should act that way if you've got 3 pedals and a stick shift and you're dropping down gears without a good blip - that would be realistic in many situations. With 2 pedal wheels with no clutch and with gamepads the Auto-Blip should be preventing this from happening. One of the values in the data I've posted above, or possibly it's in one of the other files, should be tweaked to "fix" this problem for the 2 pedal drivers.

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Have you actually gone to the controller setup page? From your previous posts,it seems you can't find the game in your region. Why would you buy a game with no system to play it? Kinda like buying gas and not having a car?

Misunderstanding here, How could I see the controller setup page if I don't have the game yet ?

Yes, it's very difficult to find AC with my preferred region/price on my local shops, most of them only take individual orders due to low demand. Most of them don't stock the game and those who does put hefty price on the game, similar to other AAA titles. The rumor of no DLC available on my region PSN also worries me, so I may have to buy the game ( US reg ) just in case ( to be safe ) before it gets more difficult for me to import with decent price. Right now, AC priced at HK $ 398 for Asian reg AC PS4 ( SRP by Sony Asia ), that's about US $ 49-50 without shipping costs or DLC, usually Asian reg PS4 games would drop to HK $ 310 after 6 months or a year. US reg import from local shop is about $ 60-65 with shipping cost included. I'm limited in options and I'm worried about disc copy availability. I may have to spend close or more than US $ 100 for AC with all DLC ( season pass ), and no guarantee online is usable due to my location + region lock ( if I get US reg ) I want my hard earned moneys worth, spending that much for AC ( still have to buy PS4 as well )

 

[Nielsen]

Now, I discovered that PC players -- at least, not on my system -- we can't just pull into the pit area and pull into a rectangle to adjust settings in Hotlap Mode. I didn't try Practice though...I will. The rectangle doesn't even show up like it does when I'm racing. I discovered this on a different track as on the Nordschleife I would have had to do another 8 minute lap to get to the pit entrance.

That's really all I need to know because this difference makes it impossible to recreate the scenario I described. On PS4 you can drive into the pit box regardless of using the pratice or hotlap modes, and the odd numbers aren't isolated to just one of them.

So, that definitely leads me to believe that this is yet one more bug plaguing the console version. I had a very strong feeling it was the second you told me, but I wanted to double-check just to make sure. I can't remember if I mentioned this was 100% stock setup too.

Yeah, I never doubted it was a bug. The interesting thing was to know if it also existed on PC, but it most likely doesn't if PC players can only access setup through the menus. After all, the PS4 version shows different values depending on how the pits are being accessed.

I don't know if you're into doing races against the AI. But if you don't mind... Select a smaller track. Run a handful of laps, and go back to the pits so you can see your setup info like in my screenshot. Take a note of graining % / blistering % and wear %... I'm pretty sure you don't have to get new tires, but you could try it with getting new ones and then pull over after a couple of corners, like you did to start this conversation and get back to the pits/setup screen to see if you're getting stupid data again. I'm just curious if this is a problem that is restricted to Practice/Hotlapping or if it also plagues console players in Race Mode too.

I'm sure we can all agree that you don't want to be putting on a fresh set of tires during a race, pull out of the pits and be starting on tires with 10% graining (I think yours were at 10%, if I remember correctly). I'll still run the Ferrari FXX K later today - just for the heck of it - I'm sure the results will be the same. But it sure seems like Bug #637 for the Console Version.

I'll try that. About getting new tires or not, I'm not really sure how this works on the PS4 version. That's partly because the setup telemetry shows nonsensical numbers for tires, not to mention there's no HUD to monitor wear and temperatures.

EDIT: Just so you don't feel all alone in tires not being exactly perfect. I'm sure we'd all agree that I probably had 7% graining from understeering like a punk... I know.... I know... Anyway, through two entire laps on Nordschleife my front tires never got into the Green (temp). They stayed Blue. That means I never got them into "optimal operating temperature". Now, some people could counter and say "Well, add camber..." and maybe that's true, but I should be able to run the stock alignment and get optimal operating temperature, even if it takes me an entire lap. And since I probably was understeering a bit, even though I showed no blistering, you'd think those understeers might throw a little more heat into the tires. But, I never even saw them turning blueish-green. I'm going to try again but drop the front tire Air Pressure by 2 PSI. I noticed the front tires are 2 PSI higher than the rears in the default setup. Maybe that'll help... ::shrug::

If you'd like me to try anything else -- just ask... 👍

At least you PC players seem to see numbers that actually reflect your driving. The bug on PS4 makes it impossible to know. Thanks for looking into this. 👍

We can hope that the forthcoming update for consoles will continue to improve things that simply aren't up to the standards of the PC version.

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

The idea of having to assign a clutch to a game pad button in pretty insane, in my opinion.

Not insane really, the clutch has been used since PSX days, Advan Racing has clutch button fused with shift up/down button ( pressing shift up and down also engages the clutch, so timing is crucial, too long will over rev the engine and throttle blip also required ), PS2 days, TOCA Race Driver 3 have clutch button, D1 GP games ( mandatory use )

 

[killerjimbag]

Not insane really, the clutch has been used since PSX days, Advan Racing has clutch button fused with shift up/down button ( pressing shift up and down also engages the clutch, so timing is crucial, too long will over rev the engine and throttle blip also required ), PS2 days, TOCA Race Driver 3 have clutch button, D1 GP games ( mandatory use )

Well not trying to be rude or poking anyone. I'd bet that they didn't design this game to be used with a controller. Just my thoughts.

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Well not trying to be rude or poking anyone. I'd bet that they didn't design this game to be used with a controller. Just my thoughts.

Your bet is wrong Advan Racing was on PSX, what do you think it was design for ? other than DS1 ( PSX pad ). The D1 GP PS2, if you ever played it, is very optimized for DS2 stick, but still requires finesse, timing, skill and real life understanding/technique to be able to drift competitively and winning the championship ( very challenging as the game uses D1 official scoring system ) In control options, the game only supported GT Force/Pro wheel, but the clutch can't be used well with wheel ( no clutch pedal ), so DS2 was the best IMO ( clutch button was analog and have great travel - have to press really hard to get 100% ) Not sure if D1GP supported G25 at all, most probably not.

EDIT : Just checked the D1 GP game book manual, GT Force/Pro only. Turns out GT Force is equivalent to Driving Force ( US market naming by Logitech )

 

[Nielsen]

@ALB123 Just a quick question related to our discussion, how do you get new tires when pitting on PC? Is there an option to replace the tires with new ones? Since the telemetry shows blistering in the screenshot you posted, can you simply reset these values by replacing the tires?

 

[ALB123]

@ALB123 Just a quick question related to our discussion, how do you get new tires when pitting on PC? Is there an option to replace the tires with new ones? Since the telemetry shows blistering in the screenshot you posted, can you simply reset these values by replacing the tires?

If I'm racing and I manually drive in the pits a screen comes up and I have to decide if I want fuel/how much, tires/what kind, do I want to fix any potential car damage... Then you'll see the animated pit crew swap out the tires. After that, I'm back on my way onto the race track.

If I'm in Practice or Hotlap Mode manually pulling into the pits doesn't do the same thing. So, I just hit the ESC button on my keyboard and it pops up a menu on my screen. One of the options is "Back to Pits". It doesn't show me physically in the pits like if I were in the middle of a race. It shows the same screen as when you entered the race track, if that makes sense. However, once I then hit "Drive" I will be in the racetrack's pit box rectangle area with my 1 Pit Crew Guy holding that lollipop sign. I throw it in 1st gear and I'm off, back onto the race track.

 

[Mike_grpA]

Nice information mate , now if someone plays with a stick/DS4, it would need clutch button to heel/toe manually ( throttle blip ), is the clutch button in the button map preset for DS4 ? Maybe you can look at the control setup screen ?

No, they wouldn't need to use manual clutch. The problem lies with the auto blip not applying enough throttle to properly match the revs on downshifts for some cars. Manually blipping the throttle solves the problem.

I've heard some people suggest turning off Auto-Clutch, but leaving Auto-Blip on. Obviously, a Lotus 25 was made for stick-shift & clutch use, not flappy pedal use. However, there HAS TO be code in the car setup files to facilitate flappy paddle drivers like me who don't have a clutch and/or stick-shift AND game pad players. The idea of having to assign a clutch to a game pad button in pretty insane, in my opinion.

Sounds like the opposite of what I'd suggest. Auto clutch works fine with every car I've driven, so there's no need to turn it off unless you actually want manual clutch control. Auto blip is what's not working with some cars, but still, there's no need to really turn it off, as the game still allows you to use the throttle while it's changing gears, so your throttle inputs kind of override the game's auto blip.

Most cars I've tried are fine, but a few have this problem. The worst I've tried is the Lotus 25. If you are driving a car that exhibits this behaviour, just blip the throttle each time you downshift, and it should fix it.

The car should act that way if you've got 3 pedals and a stick shift and you're dropping down gears without a good blip - that would be realistic in many situations. With 2 pedal wheels with no clutch and with gamepads the Auto-Blip should be preventing this from happening. One of the values in the data I've posted above, or possibly it's in one of the other files, should be tweaked to "fix" this problem for the 2 pedal drivers.

Yeah exactly. I was actually quite happy I found it in a way, because I really like the fact that the game simulates compression lockup, that's really cool. You're right though that it should be an easy fix, just a tweak of the throttle percentage for the blip or something like that. I'd imagine it'd take a programmer a matter of seconds to fix each car with this problem. However, they've got far bigger issues facing them, so I doubt this will get fixed. I don't mind, because it actually makes me want to get a H pattern shifter so I can use the clutch. The clutch action is handled pretty well in AC, and using it in my little experiment gave me a lot of satisfaction. Obviously, it still feels way too weird using a clutch and heel-toeing with flappy paddles, so I really want to get a H pattern now lol.

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

No, they wouldn't need to use manual clutch. The problem lies with the auto blip not applying enough throttle to properly match the revs on downshifts for some cars. Manually blipping the throttle solves the problem.

Gotcha, so it's much simpler now, I can do what I have been doing in GT6, blip the gas on downshift 👍

 

[ALB123]

I'm so upset that I don't have an H-Pattern shifter as well. I need a new wheel, new pedals and I need to add a stick-shift. That's all...

 

[Mike_grpA]

Gotcha, so it's much simpler now, I can do what I have been doing in GT6, blip the gas on downshift 👍

GT6 has forced auto blip anyway though, so there's no real need to blip the throttle. Not to mention it doesn't model compression lockup, so you can just bang down the gears as quickly as you please and it has no effect on the car.

I'm so upset that I don't have an H-Pattern shifter as well. I need a new wheel, new pedals and I need to add a stick-shift. That's all...

I feel your pain mate lol. I need to use GIMX to get my Fanatec setup to work with AC, so it doesn't make much sense really to buy an H pattern shifter that goes with my wheel. Might have to start saving for a new wheel myself lol. I'll prob get a T300, because it'd be nice to have a couple of different rims, but I'll have to get a CPX adapter, because I just couldn't handle using the T300 pedals when I've got a set of CSPs.

 

[ALB123]

That's exactly what I want too. A T300. Ideally, I would like to get a set of CS v3's for pedals.

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

GT6 has forced auto blip anyway though, so there's no real need to blip the throttle. Not to mention it doesn't model compression lockup, so you can just bang down the gears as quickly as you please and it has no effect on the car.

I did it to slower the shift down speed, and it does help for me on certain situation. Mostly I just like to do it, more like reflex

 

[HammyMansell]

I'm so upset that I don't have an H-Pattern shifter as well. I need a new wheel, new pedals and I need to add a stick-shift. That's all...

Go for a Thrustmaster T150 if you don't want to spend too much, i have one, decent FFB, and you can add the gear shifter, and upgrade the pedals to the metal "Pro" ones if you desire. I will do this when i have the money!!

 

[ALB123]

Go for a Thrustmaster T150 if you don't want to spend too much, i have one, decent FFB, and you can add the gear shifter, and upgrade the pedals to the metal "Pro" ones if you desire. I will do this when i have the money!!

I've heard good things about the T150 as well! You're right. I may be picking up a set of the "Pro" pedals. Someone has offered a set to me, but I will have to see what the shipping costs might be. For as much as I've liked my DFGT - the pedals are horrendous. I know that plenty of Aliens set World Records with DFGT pedals. They're Aliens. I'm an idiot who needs all the help I can get and DFGT pedals do not translate a lot of feel, unfortunately. The "wheel" part of DFGT was fine. I'm not being a snob about it. It's just unfortunate that I damaged my wheel, so I have to do something. In the meantime I borrow a friend's DFGT and we go back and forth with it. Thank God...

 

[35mm]

Auto clutch works fine with every car I've driven

Just a heads-up, shifting on the Pagani Huayra is broken and you'll need auto clutch to be OFF on this one.


About auto blip, I've noticed it as well.
At first, I thought it had to do with the rear wheels locking under braking, but then it became clear it was a matter of revs matching.
This is a big pain for people who don't have pro pedals/shifter. 👎

 

[Mike_grpA]

Mostly I just like to do it, more like reflex

That's the only reason you need. I'm not judging, I sometimes rev match driving my car around the streets lol. If I haven't been for a good drive out on the country roads for a while, I just do it out of boredom lol.

Just a heads-up, shifting on the Pagani Huayra is broken and you'll need auto clutch to be OFF on this one.


About auto blip, I've noticed it as well.
At first, I thought it had to do with the rear wheels locking under braking, but then it became clear it was a matter of revs matching.
This is a big pain for people who don't have pro pedals/shifter. 👎

Haven't tried the Huayra yet, thanks for the heads up.👍

I don't think it's a problem for people with two-pedal sets and flappy paddles, because as I said, you can still rev match with the auto clutch and stuff turned on. The Huayra issue is definitely a problem for those without a clutch pedal. They need to fix that one.

 

[35mm]

as I said, you can still rev match with the auto clutch and stuff turned on.

I misread your post and thought you were using a clutch.

How does rev matching work without a clutch, then?

 

[Mike_grpA]

I misread your post and thought you were using a clutch.

How does rev matching work without a clutch, then?

No you didn't mis-read, I did use the clutch to have full control whilst I worked out what exactly was the cause of the problem. As for rev matching with auto clutch, well it's self-explanatory isn't it? You blip the throttle when you pull the shift paddle. Auto clutch does it's thing when you shift, and you blip the throttle.

 

[RoccoTTS]

Like to add a question : what's the best way to set auto clutch and auto blip if you're using the flappy paddles ?

 

[35mm]

You blip the throttle when you pull the shift paddle. Auto clutch does it's thing when you shift, and you blip the throttle.

I had no idea this was possible with paddle shifting/auto-clutch...

Even understanding the problem I was facing, it never crossing my mind to manually blip the throttle without an actual clutch.

Will have to give it a try. Thank you. 👍

 

[ALB123]

@Mike_grpA I just finished running some laps with the Lotus 25 on Brands Hatch GP. First, what a blast that car is on Brands Hatch. But, I was able to recreate what you were talking about, a bit. It seemed to affect me the most when I had a good clip of speed built up. Like, the last corner before the Start/Finish (Clark Curve maybe?) and Paddock Hill Bend, just the spot you don't want trouble!

Like I said, I noticed it much more when I was moving pretty fast. I could pretty consistently spin myself out on those two corners from quick downshifts. I'm sure that could be corrected with an adjustment to the data file I posted above - I'm pretty sure there is a setting for how much blip to provide, or how long to take performing the downshift - something like that - I could probably correct with some trial & error.

Of course, I would never think of doing such a thing because it's a Kunos car and as such, all Kunos cars have their data encoded and I have pinky swore I would not decompress their data file and peek around. But, if someone were so inclined, it could be done relatively easily. Of course, that's of no help to the console players, once again.

@RoccoTTS I generally just have Auto-Clutch turned off and Auto-Blip turned on. It's still going to automatically apply the clutch for you in cars that have a manual transmission. I'm pretty sure that Auto-Clutch option is for people who DO have a clutch pedal and/or shifter but don't want to or can't access the clutch pedal for some reason. That's MY understanding of it.

I don't know if the console version is the same as PC in this regard, but when I'm loading a combo to go play, there is usually a message in the lower-right corner of the screen. It informs me if the car I've chosen has Adjustable Turbo Boost, Adjustable Brake Balance while Driving, which Tire Model the car is on and whether the car has auto-blip built in. Many, many of the newer cars have that built-in in real life nowadays. So, whether you have it turned on or off, for the Corvette C7, for instance, the game will auto-blip you anyway. But, take out an older car like the Escort and you're going to want Auto-Blip enabled. That's my belief.

I gotta run out for a bit... be back in about 45 mins...

 

[RoccoTTS]

I'm also using Auto-Clutch turned off and Auto-Blip turned on.

 

[skazz]

Autoblip:
Don't forget that most modern supercars and racecars in game have autoblip built into the car so you get it with or without turning on the driver aid. The driver aid effectively only applies to older cars which don't provide autoblip by default.

I should also point out that if you are left-foot braking then blipping the throttle while braking during downshifts doesn't even need heel & toe, you just use the left foot to brake and when downshifting blip briefly with the right foot. Easy as can be, and it gets you used to blipping the throttle during downshifts for learning how to heel & toe later.

Autoclutch:
Like with the blipping, AC doesn't expect you to use a clutch pedal in any car which doesn't have one in real life. So autoclutch setting is only relevant for cars which actually have a clutch pedal in real life (rules out the modern supercars and race cars again).

If you don't have a clutch pedal, there are two ways to shift in older cars:
1. Turn off transmission damage and autoclutch, shift either with the accelerator depressed or not, doesn't really matter.
2. Enable autoclutch.

Personally unless I'm in a very serious mood I have damage disabled, so no transmission damage or tyre flat-spotting. So autoclutch is purely optional even when you aren't using the clutch pedal.

 

[KRATOS8MS]

Llsure.View attachment 601002 View attachment 601003I just made the bottom one tonight, tried it with a few diff cars, quite liked it.

Great...thanks!