Assetto corsa coming to PS4 and Xbox one

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In addition, I noticed I'm only getting 75-80% of full brake travel unless I push the pedal as hard as I possibly can - which is a PITA with a wheelstand pro and carpets as to get full brake travel I have to pull back on the wheel to stop the stand sliding away.
G29 has an additional rubber demper in the brake that causes this.

г29 пружина.png
 
Quick question if someone wouldn't mind answering. How do you get the 919 to keep giving electrical boost after 195mph?

I've tried changing the gearing, made sure I've for loads of battery left, loads of available power for that lap, changing the harvest percentage and also changing the ERS setting but you can only get deploy a tiny amount of electrical power after roughly 195mph.
You don't. The regs say you auto use the power on exit from the corner you brake to get the power. It's not manually deployable and only lasts for 6 seconds max. It's used for acceleration not top speed.
 
Not that old :lol: AE92 Seca 4A-FE, though one of my girl house mate had AE82 CS manual sedan with 4-AC, it was red and in immaculate condition-everything is original including the wheels, and she got it for about 1500 dollars, back in 2002. I taught her how to drive manual in that car :D

Ah, those are probably even uglier than the AE82 Secas lol. The sedans look pretty decent though IMO. I saw one bloke in another forum had put a 2ZZ into an AE82 sedan, and then turbo'd it. That thing would be utterly mental! Was getting me thinking about looking into dropping the 2ZZ out of my car into an old AE82. The 900kg kerb weight of the 82 coupled with a worked 2ZZ would be tons of fun, plus the Sportivo has a cheap torsion beam rear end, whereas the AE82s had independent rear ends.

Back in 2006 I was looking at an Aus delivered AE86, with the asthmatic 4AC. Was only $2,500, which looking back, I hate myself for not buying. I didn't buy it because of the engine, but if I had've bought it, I would have definitely been able to make money selling it a couple of years later, as the body was absolutely mint condition.
 
There's a bunch of cars in AC with that problem. I ended up just manually blipping the throttle myself in the end, because when it doesn't blip the throttle enough it can pitch you into a violent slide heading into a corner. Happens so suddenly it can really ruin the fun, especially on a difficult track like the Nordschleife lol.




I can't comment on the rest of your post, but the reason you can't change any of the ratios is because from 2014 onward, teams had to choose their ratios for the entire season, and weren't allowed to change them. The only exception was for 2014 each team were allowed to change ratios once, in case their pre-season simulations turned out sub-optimal ratios. From 2015 onward no changes to gear ratios or final drive were permitted during the season. This would be the reason for it being locked out in game.

Yes I do know the FIA F1 ratio ruling but did not know whether the game did or didn't do it. I am quite sure rear and under body aero is not fixed for the season but the game wont let me change that either >:-( It does make it difficult to know what should or should not work in this game sometime :-(

Don't forget, if anyone finds the DRS button for a T300 let me know.
 
Yes I do know the FIA F1 ratio ruling but did not know whether the game did or didn't do it. I am quite sure rear and under body aero is not fixed for the season but the game wont let me change that either >:-( It does make it difficult to know what should or should not work in this game sometime :-(

Don't forget, if anyone finds the DRS button for a T300 let me know.

The car is obviously a specific specification of the SF15T, so you shouldn't be able to change underfloor aero, as doing so in real life is only possible with a change of floor. However, it's very silly if you can't alter the rear wing's angle of attack, as that's a perfectly normal thing to change during a race weekend. The rear wing doesn't have the range of adjustment that the front wing flaps do, as the only adjustment in the rear wing is a few different mounting positions, but you should still have 3 or 4 different levels of rear wing angle to adjust.
 
Wheel update... I have FF... well, kind of.

Down loaded the update on the off chance it would fix my G29 issues... and I now have some force feedback... but still can't believe this is how the game is supposed to feel.

I'll explain what I have and maybe someone else with a G29/PS4 set up can tell me if this is how it's supposed to feel...

When I select drive in practice or special events, and before I engage 1st and press the accelerator, the wheel has a lot of rotational resistance (like FF 10 in GT6). When I select 1st and pull away, this resistance reduces significantly.

When driving, the wheel now counter-steers if the car over steers, and reacts to bumps etc.

BUT...

1. There's very little weight to the steering, even with FF at 100% - it's similar to GT6 with FF set to c.3 and power steering on

2. There's a massive force feedback deadzone - the car steers when the wheel moves, but there's no FF effect until around 10* of lock is applied - this makes it very difficult to place the car accurately in to corners, or correct small slides on exits

Is this the AC FF experience?

In addition, I noticed I'm only getting 75-80% of full brake travel unless I push the pedal as hard as I possibly can - which is a PITA with a wheelstand pro and carpets as to get full brake travel I have to pull back on the wheel to stop the stand sliding away.

That is not an Assetto Corsa experience. Its a Logitech thing as I suffered it when I used the G25 on the PS3 and PC. Hardly any feel in the centre and the wheel wasn't tight.
I also had to set the force feedback to max in Gran Turismo 5/6 as anything else felt so weak on the G25.

On the Thrustmaster T300, soon as you try to move the wheel with your finger it is tight and lots of resistance with 31% feedback.

I honestly cannot remember what the G25 pedals were like. Though I remember having fun times with it on the PS3 and PC besides the lack of good force.


Yes I do know the FIA F1 ratio ruling but did not know whether the game did or didn't do it. I am quite sure rear and under body aero is not fixed for the season but the game wont let me change that either >:-( It does make it difficult to know what should or should not work in this game sometime :-(

Don't forget, if anyone finds the DRS button for a T300 let me know.

L2 or Flash on the Alcantara rim. I haven't checked on the F1 rim though I hope it is the DRS button.
 
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That is not an Assetto Corsa experience. Its a Logitech thing as I suffered it when I used the G25 on the PS3 and PC. Hardly any feel in the centre and the wheel wasn't tight.
I also had to set the force feedback to max in Gran Turismo 5/6 as anything else felt so weak on the G25.

On the Thrustmaster T300, soon as you try to move the wheel with your finger it is tight and lots of resistance with 31% feedback.

I honestly cannot remember what the G25 pedals were like. Though I remember having fun times with it on the PS3 and PC besides the lack of good force.




L2 or Flash on the Alcantara rim.

Thanks for the reply.

I've had several G series wheels over the years, and they are capable of much more than the experience I'm getting on AC as it stands.

I never had deadzone issues in GT, and I never felt the need to have FF at more than 5... And I was reasonably competitive in time trials with this set up.

So it's either the way AC implements the G29, or I have a faulty wheel. Just trying to understand which.
 
I can only think the complexities of the Assetto Corsa feedback system has shown up the flaws of the old cog design of the Logitech wheels?
 
I can only think the complexities of the Assetto Corsa feedback system has shown up the flaws of the old cog design of the Logitech wheels?

'Complexities'... Seriously? Even GT has zero FF deadzone.

Although technology might have moved on, there's nothing inherently wrong with a G series wheel... they are more than capable of producing a great experience, they are much more reliable than TM, and they are significantly cheaper.
 
Thanks for the reply.

I've had several G series wheels over the years, and they are capable of much more than the experience I'm getting on AC as it stands.

I never had deadzone issues in GT, and I never felt the need to have FF at more than 5... And I was reasonably competitive in time trials with this set up.

So it's either the way AC implements the G29, or I have a faulty wheel. Just trying to understand which.
Can you not take it back? Sounds like your experience is far different to any other G29 user I've come across. It could be worth checking Youtube G29 +Assetto so you can get a better insight as to wether it's just your G29.
 
Can you not take it back? Sounds like your experience is far different to any other G29 user I've come across. It could be worth checking Youtube G29 +Assetto so you can get a better insight as to wether it's just your G29.

I've posted on the AC forums too. Just trying to understand if it's my specific wheel that's a problem, or it's how AC implements the feedback.

Hearing/reading both... some posts on AC forums saying all wheels have quite a large deadzone. If this is the case I won't be bothering to play the game again.

If it's not, then I will start by getting a new G29. After that I'll consider getting a TM wheel, but I wouldn't be particularly happy about this - I've read nothing but bad reports about their reliability, and on the few occasions I've tried them I haven't enjoyed them.
 
I've posted on the AC forums too. Just trying to understand if it's my specific wheel that's a problem, or it's how AC implements the feedback.

Hearing/reading both... some posts on AC forums saying all wheels have quite a large deadzone. If this is the case I won't be bothering to play the game again.

If it's not, then I will start by getting a new G29. After that I'll consider getting a TM wheel, but I wouldn't be particularly happy about this - I've read nothing but bad reports about their reliability, and on the few occasions I've tried them I haven't enjoyed them.
The reliability reputation is what has prevented me from buying one. Even my friends broke after 3 months, but he said they fixed it\Sent him a new 1 and it's better than before. I wont touch 1 for now anyway as thet have a new 1 coming out. Hope you sort your wheel out.
 
The reliability reputation is what has prevented me from buying one. Even my friends broke after 3 months, but he said they fixed it\Sent him a new 1 and it's better than before. I wont touch 1 for now anyway as thet have a new 1 coming out. Hope you sort your wheel out.
I'm not an expert but I'd suspect that choosing a brand new to the market wheel over one that's been there for a while and had time to have the bugs worked out, might not turn out to be the best choice.
 
From what I've read about the Logitech series, the helical gearing has been the same since the G25...
G25 gears are straight cut. G27, and on, have the helical gears.
'Complexities'... Seriously? Even GT has zero FF deadzone.

Although technology might have moved on, there's nothing inherently wrong with a G series wheel... they are more than capable of producing a great experience, they are much more reliable than TM, and they are significantly cheaper.
The G wheels have a mechanical deadzone, which is by definition, inescapable. That doesn't mean that there can't be additional deadzone beyond that, but it does mean that there will never be zero.

I noticed I'm only getting 75-80% of full brake travel unless I push the pedal as hard as I possibly can - which is a PITA with a wheelstand pro and carpets as to get full brake travel I have to pull back on the wheel to stop the stand sliding away.
It might be a pain, but it's the one significant improvement with the latest Logitech offerings. I can understand wanting 100% in game braking response at your disposal, but not 100% travel. Would you expect to reach full travel using a real car's brake?

It's probably safe to say that the wheel is not delivering as it is supposed to and/or you have some skewed expectations. A properly functioning G29 should be well and truly adequate though.
 
I'm not an expert but I'd suspect that choosing a brand new to the market wheel over one that's been there for a while and had time to have the bugs worked out, might not turn out to be the best choice.
Oh i agree for sure, Which is why I'd still wait a bit anyway. Truth is I'm busy trying to sell my home so when i move i will probably buy a TM anyway then see if anything better comes out. With the price of wheels today they really need to be of better quality. I'd happily pay 4 or 500 quid dor a wheel if i knew i wouldn't have to worry about the warranty.

I bought my PS4 on boxing day last year, and I'm pretty sure the HDMI connection is on it's way out, a few weeks outside of warranty. I'm not impressed at all if it's the case, especially as my friends PS4 stopped reading discs a few weeks ago one week outside of warranty, and he rarely uses the disc drive. There's a cynical part of me that these failures are pre planned.
 
The G wheels have a mechanical deadzone, which is by definition, inescapable. That doesn't mean that there can't be additional deadzone beyond that, but it does mean that there will never be zero.

Yes, understand that - I've had a G25 and 2 x G27's previously... they do have a tiny mechanical deadzone, and that's present in all games, including GT. However, this is something else - I have around 10* of wheel lock in either direction, where the car turns, but there is zero force feedback. This is not mechanical.

It might be a pain, but it's the one significant improvement with the latest Logitech offerings. I can understand wanting 100% in game braking response at your disposal, but not 100% travel. Would you expect to reach full travel using a real car's brake?

Correct - I want 100% brake pressure. The amount of travel is somewhat irrelevant as long as I can reasonably modulate less than 100%.

As it stands I can't get 100% without my wheel stand sliding away from me... in GT6, I had a G27 with progressive brake spring - much firmer brake pedal than the G29, but with no issues getting to 100% pressure!

It's probably safe to say that the wheel is not delivering as it is supposed to and/or you have some skewed expectations. A properly functioning G29 should be well and truly adequate though.

Which is exactly what I'm trying to understand... it this wheel related, or does the game just have rubbish FF with a G29.
 
Be careful of the weight of the shift knob. The sequential shift knob I recently got from TM has some heft to it and they specifically state not to use it for the h-gate shifter because the extra weight can damage the mechanisms.
After all the reading on the th8a i when ahead an ordered it from amazon for $120 including shipping and taxes, but it was back ordered. Now it shows in stock for $170, crazy
 
After all the reading on the th8a i when ahead an ordered it from amazon for $120 including shipping and taxes, but it was back ordered. Now it shows in stock for $170, crazy

I wish I bought mine at the time. Here I could have bought it for £94. It has now went up to £114 on Amazon.
 
Just tried the 919 and its incredible. They really nailed it.. i mean.. that sound! Listen to the onboard sound and compare it with the one in Forza 6... in real life, this car does all that crazy sounds when braking and that was missing from Forza 6.

However, can anyone explain to me how the MGU-K works? How do i activate it?
 
I've got one of the first generation Thrustmaster TX wheels (early 2014), still working great. Of course my experience doesn't tell the whole story of it's reliability history but many of the reliability reports where earlier in production. Would I buy another, in a heart beat unless there was something comparable to consider - there isn't.
To me, while reliability reports are important, but there are more variables to sway my decision. According to multiple sources the Toyota Corolla and Honda Civic, to name a couple, are at the top of the reliability ratings. Does this mean that's the car for me - no thanks. My BMW doesn't have the highest reliability rating but I can accept that (knock on wood I haven't had problems), it performs to what I look for in a nice weather driver. Just saying....
 
Just tried the 919 and its incredible. They really nailed it.. i mean.. that sound! Listen to the onboard sound and compare it with the one in Forza 6... in real life, this car does all that crazy sounds when braking and that was missing from Forza 6.

Yes, the 919 is ridiculously good once it gets into the groove.
 
So what's the current state of Assetto Corsa on PS4?

Online per car TT leaderboards are in (that's important for me), no major bugs like hitting invisible objects on the track/land mines, no problems with T300RS Wheel?

I'm inclined to buy it in January PSN Sale, no other sim/simcade on the horizon.
 
I've posted on the AC forums too. Just trying to understand if it's my specific wheel that's a problem, or it's how AC implements the feedback.

Hearing/reading both... some posts on AC forums saying all wheels have quite a large deadzone. If this is the case I won't be bothering to play the game again.

If it's not, then I will start by getting a new G29. After that I'll consider getting a TM wheel, but I wouldn't be particularly happy about this - I've read nothing but bad reports about their reliability, and on the few occasions I've tried them I haven't enjoyed them.
I haven't tried a G29 or PS4 version but G27 on PC it feels decent so maybe some updates can solve issue if it's not hardware. Good to get another game that works with wheel to try out to see if it's just Assetto Corsa on PS4 or a wheel hardware issue.

Does your G29 behave like this?:

 
Yes, understand that - I've had a G25 and 2 x G27's previously... they do have a tiny mechanical deadzone, and that's present in all games, including GT. However, this is something else - I have around 10* of wheel lock in either direction, where the car turns, but there is zero force feedback. This is not mechanical.



Correct - I want 100% brake pressure. The amount of travel is somewhat irrelevant as long as I can reasonably modulate less than 100%.

As it stands I can't get 100% without my wheel stand sliding away from me... in GT6, I had a G27 with progressive brake spring - much firmer brake pedal than the G29, but with no issues getting to 100% pressure!



Which is exactly what I'm trying to understand... it this wheel related, or does the game just have rubbish FF with a G29.
From posts I've come across, thdy suggest pumping your brake all the way in when you're in the menu screen and or/ in the pits before you set off ro drive to calibrate it. Give it a go.
 
I wish I bought mine at the time. Here I could have bought it for £94. It has now went up to £114 on Amazon.
I got mine through Amazon UK in December.

It was one of those Wearhouse Deals or something - only the box was a bit damaged (nothing much), but everything else was literally new and untouched.

Original price was £102 and then they applied a promotion of -£20.57.

All this to say that you should keep an eye on the "used" items, which can hide some great deals. 👍
 
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