Assetto corsa coming to PS4 and Xbox one

[HammyMansell]

Well maybe then something is wrong with me or whatever. I give the car a good amount of downforce and its spinning in every gear and even at high speed Corners. At 0:45 in your clip i would totally lose the car.

I had it in "qualy" mode too, "hot lap" setting and the MGU-H thingy on maximum! The full beans!!! 👍 Try and be as smooth as you can with it, accelerate in a straight line, and when the car is "planted". Good luck with it!

 

[crooky369]

Quick question if someone wouldn't mind answering. How do you get the 919 to keep giving electrical boost after 195mph?

I've tried changing the gearing, made sure I've for loads of battery left, loads of available power for that lap, changing the harvest percentage and also changing the ERS setting but you can only get deploy a tiny amount of electrical power after roughly 195mph.

 

[Fryto]

Quick question if someone wouldn't mind answering. How do you get the 919 to keep giving electrical boost after 195mph?

I've tried changing the gearing, made sure I've for loads of battery left, loads of available power for that lap, changing the harvest percentage and also changing the ERS setting but you can only get deploy a tiny amount of electrical power after roughly 195mph.

Was wondering exactly the same.
Other than that, I classify trying the 919 Hybrid for the first time as one of my top experiences in gaming ever.
Simply a terrific effort by Kunos.

 

[Spitfire77]

Was wondering exactly the same.
Other than that, I classify trying the 919 Hybrid for the first time as one of my top experiences in gaming ever.
Simply a terrific effort by Kunos.

I wonder if that is a bug or a limitation the car is forced to have per the rules that year? I watch those races when I get a chance but am not well versed on the rules. Just a thought...

 

[crooky369]

Was wondering exactly the same.
Other than that, I classify trying the 919 Hybrid for the first time as one of my top experiences in gaming ever.
Simply a terrific effort by Kunos.

It seems you have to manually boost the car. Thought I'd checked all the buttons but clearly not. It was mapped to R2 on the G29 wheel by default.

EDIT: it's R2

 

[Fryto]

It seems you have to manually boost the car. Thought I'd checked all the buttons but clearly not. It was mapped to R3 on the G29 wheel by default.

Thanks, I'll need to have a look whether it's the same on the T300.

 

[BrainsBush]

Thx for the feedback wrt flame 'bug'. Apperently well known by the AC die hards. Yes I'm a rookie but learning fast

@crooky369 "Initially I posted a 1:32.6 and was quietly confident this would be in the ball park of the real car but it appears the real car did a 1:24 flat! I managed to get down to a 1:30 something but I feel a further 6 seconds is utterly impossible. I know the track has changed slightly but not that much. Maybe they made this car a little slow? It'd be interested to hear if there's anyone who has got anywhere near that 1:24 lap"

RBR/Porsche 911-GT1-98

1:31:049 so far. So not very helpful to find your answer. Still have to play with the setup to gain that last second. But 6 seconds....??

 

[Fredzy]

Big bummer, both 962s have a bad auto blip - not enough blip on downshift. You can see the little blip and then when the clutch catches it jumps a bunch of RPM and can upset the rear.



It's not totally undrivable but definitely ruins them for me.

 

[crooky369]

I wonder if that is a bug or a limitation the car is forced to have per the rules that year? I watch those races when I get a chance but am not well versed on the rules. Just a thought...

I thought it was something related to not damaging the electric motor or something along those lines but then remembered it goes well above that speed at Le Mans so couldn't be the case... that's when I discovered the manual button.

Probably best actually using manual control over what the computer wants to do.

 

[danardif1]

I thought it was something related to not damaging the electric motor or something along those lines but then remembered it goes well above that speed at Le Mans so couldn't be the case... that's when I discovered the manual button.

Probably best actually using manual control over what the computer wants to do.

It's a design feature of the car, to do with how Porsche have designed the deployment of the energy from the ERS. Remember there are different deployment categories set by the FIA/ACO, the 919 being in the 8MJ subcategory. These are based on how much energy you can deploy per lap (this is set on a lap of Le Mans).

Porsche will have calculated what part of the cars acceleration band the ERS is most effective in and that's why you have to manually deploy it after 195mph. With the car's drag being so much higher nearer its VMax, the extra horsepower the ERS provides isn't as useful or efficient as it is at lower speeds.

 

[gladbecker82]

But 6 seconds....??

Im not so sure if everything from tyre model to track surface or raw car power is 100% accurate by now almost 20 Years later.

 

[GranTurismo guy]

So many great cars to try out...

Tried the 1998 Porsche GT1-98 out first as one of the last "analogue" racing cars. ABS aside it's very old school with the engine dating back from at least 1982 (in the 956) and allegedly parts of the turbo were still being used from the 70s 935... The slow pick up of the old turbo and consequent slow drive out of slow corners was one of their major weaknesses compared to the Mercedes they were racing against who smashed them 10-0 over the course of the 1998 FIA GT championship. You can really feel this with the car as the turbo takes an age to spool up to the point that sometimes you'll be shifting up before it's even reached peak boost.

It feels pretty slow as well, closer to a modern hypercar than a modern race car with less grunt than the hypercar but of course more downforce although unfortunately on the rather rubbish overheating old 90s tyres. I took it round the new Red Bull Ring as this was the only track the game has that the real series raced on.

Initially I posted a 1:32.6 and was quietly confident this would be in the ball park of the real car but it appears the real car did a 1:24 flat! I managed to get down to a 1:30 something but I feel a further 6 seconds is utterly impossible. I know the track has changed slightly but not that much. Maybe they made this car a little slow? It'd be interested to hear if there's anyone who has got anywhere near that 1:24 lap.

Interesting that it may be slower than real life. Forza 6 has exactly the same problem, in that game it's a whole class lower than the Toyota gt one it raced against, I wonder what's causing this?

 

[crooky369]

Interesting that it may be slower than real life. Forza 6 has exactly the same problem, in that game it's a whole class lower than the Toyota gt one it raced against, I wonder what's causing this?

The Toyota was a bit of a freak in 1998. It was built for one purpose, to win Le Mans and stretched the rules to the absolute maximum. The rules at the time dictated there must be room for a briefcase somewhere in the car so Toyota removed the fuel tank and showed the scrutineers where the briefcase would go! It was essentially a prototype in all but name. In 1999 it ran in the prototype class so this maybe why it's in a different category.

Whereas it seems the Porsche although by the 1998 model was starting to begin to resemble a prototype was still much closer to a road car than the Toyota. I kinda feel Porsche was still stuck in the old Le Mans mentality of having a reasonably fast car that was more reliable than their opposition. It worked in 1998 with a 1-2 after the opposition melted away but I feel the change at Le Mans where speed became more important with the idea that repairs could be done quickly was beginning to take effect.

Regarding the Red Bull ring it's hard to say exactly why it was quicker in real life but going by the video below the first corner change is worth maybe up to a second and I think the turn 2 hairpin looked slightly more open back in 1998 so more time there. There doesn't seem to be any onboards of the Porsche or similar around the A1 Ring to compare unfortunately.

 

[Orayani]

I still think the Maserati GT4 is my favourite so far. Had only done 4 laps each in the F1 until my eyes became obliterated with a headache. The cockpit is good on them just a shame they aren't adjustable to put it lower.

Was such fun just having a blast.

 

[TT92]

I don't drive the SF15-T, so hopefully some kind Console user will be able to tell me if all of the features available on the PC Ferrari SF15-T are available on the Console car. While I have no evidence to support such a claim, I have a feeling this car was the biggest reason for the Red Pack delay.

I don't have the PC version only PS4 but I have been playing with this car a lot.

I suspect we have been short changed so I list what I think you want to know.

1) Aero - can only adjust FR and FL wing
2) Can't set Final drive ratios (or gear ratios) So at the new RBR only use 6 gears
3) Can't find a DRS button
4) All the Hybrid stuff is scrollable through a menu system
5) Colour on tyres stay yellow despite changing compounds

I hope this helps.

 

[lancia delta hf]

I still think the Maserati GT4 is my favourite so far. Had only done 4 laps each in the F1 until my eyes became obliterated with a headache. The cockpit is good on them just a shame they aren't adjustable to put it lower.

Was such fun just having a blast.

Same here, the Masserati GT4 is simply awesome, the sound oh geeze. Also the Masserati F1s are bloody insane!! I Couldn't get round corners on classic Silverstone but had a grin on my face the whole time. Proof we need more classic cars and tracks.

 

[TT92]

Has anyone tried the two new Maserati 250F's? The 12 cylinder and 6 cylinder...I don't think I've seen a single comment. I'm curious to see what you guys think.

The 6cyl 4 speed sounds awesome and is a drift machine. The skill is trying to keep it in a straight line under power ;-)

The 12cyl 5 speed also sounds awesome but is a lot easier to drive (still hard though).

Both equipped with state of the art bicycle tyres of the day :-)

 

[gtfanforlife]

If you shift at the point that all the shift lights are lit with the SF15-T, you will use all the gears it has to offer.

 

[ALB123]

The 6cyl 4 speed sounds awesome and is a drift machine. The skill is trying to keep it in a straight line under power ;-)

The 12cyl 5 speed also sounds awesome but is a lot easier to drive (still hard though).

Both equipped with state of the art bicycle tyres of the day :-)

Sweet! The first time I drove those, I was like, "Are you freakin' kidding me?!" And I share the exact same opinion. The V12 is easier to drive, for sure. Odd to punch it at 90mph and have those bicycle tires throw the car into squirrely mode.

 

[Orayani]

Same here, the Masserati GT4 is simply awesome, the sound oh geeze. Also the Masserati F1s are bloody insane!! I Couldn't get round corners on classic Silverstone but had a grin on my face the whole time. Proof we need more classic cars and tracks.

Yeah, I'd love some of the 90s F1.

 

[Mike_grpA]

Big bummer, both 962s have a bad auto blip - not enough blip on downshift. You can see the little blip and then when the clutch catches it jumps a bunch of RPM and can upset the rear.



It's not totally undrivable but definitely ruins them for me.

There's a bunch of cars in AC with that problem. I ended up just manually blipping the throttle myself in the end, because when it doesn't blip the throttle enough it can pitch you into a violent slide heading into a corner. Happens so suddenly it can really ruin the fun, especially on a difficult track like the Nordschleife lol.

2) Can't set Final drive ratios (or gear ratios) So at the new RBR only use 6 gears

I can't comment on the rest of your post, but the reason you can't change any of the ratios is because from 2014 onward, teams had to choose their ratios for the entire season, and weren't allowed to change them. The only exception was for 2014 each team were allowed to change ratios once, in case their pre-season simulations turned out sub-optimal ratios. From 2015 onward no changes to gear ratios or final drive were permitted during the season. This would be the reason for it being locked out in game.

 

[Orayani]

There's a bunch of cars in AC with that problem. I ended up just manually blipping the throttle myself in the end, because when it doesn't blip the throttle enough it can pitch you into a violent slide heading into a corner. Happens to suddenly it can really ruin the fun, especially on a difficult track like the Nordschleife lol.

This is the reason I never use these aids as I never knew what nasty side effects they'd create. At least if I make the mistake I learn from my own.

 

[danardif1]

The Toyota was a bit of a freak in 1998. It was built for one purpose, to win Le Mans and stretched the rules to the absolute maximum. The rules at the time dictated there must be room for a briefcase somewhere in the car so Toyota removed the fuel tank and showed the scrutineers where the briefcase would go! It was essentially a prototype in all but name. In 1999 it ran in the prototype class so this maybe why it's in a different category.

Whereas it seems the Porsche although by the 1998 model was starting to begin to resemble a prototype was still much closer to a road car than the Toyota. I kinda feel Porsche was still stuck in the old Le Mans mentality of having a reasonably fast car that was more reliable than their opposition. It worked in 1998 with a 1-2 after the opposition melted away but I feel the change at Le Mans where speed became more important with the idea that repairs could be done quickly was beginning to take effect.

Regarding the Red Bull ring it's hard to say exactly why it was quicker in real life but going by the video below the first corner change is worth maybe up to a second and I think the turn 2 hairpin looked slightly more open back in 1998 so more time there. There doesn't seem to be any onboards of the Porsche or similar around the A1 Ring to compare unfortunately.

Porsche's racing department sucked in the 90's. There. I said it. For all their dominance of the 80's, whether it was Group C, the Group B Paris-Dakar winning 959, the turbo V6 in the back of Alain Prost's McLaren, they had it sorted. Even at the tail end of the decade they had moderate success (a few wins) powering a March chassis in Indycar. The 1990's... were a bit different. Of course, there were still those wins at Le Mans, in the form of the Dauer 962, the TWR prototype and then the 911 GT1, but there was also the massive failure that was the Arrows/Footwork F1 engine, and generally Porsche AG themselves severely lacked the almighty power they had earned in the 80's. The Dauer 962 dominated the 1994 24 Hours, but it was a car that benefited from a massive loophole that others had no car to respond to. The TWR-Porsche prototype of the 96/97 victories was in no way a works car, it was actually a 5 year old Jaguar chassis cut up and made into a prototype. A Porsche it was not. And whilst Porsche stuck one in the eye of McLaren who had dominated the new GT category with the glorious F1 GTR by again bending the rules to create the first 911 GT1 in 1996, as soon as other manufacturers decided to take the same route Porsche were outclassed. The Mercedes CLK project was better than Porsche's already 1 year old effort from the get-go, and by 1998 in FIA GT Porsche just trundled along in the wake of the mighty Mercs.

If Mercedes had been just a tad less ambitious and not debuted the V8 CLK LM with perhaps a bit less preparation than needed (the highest placed brand new car in 98 was Toyota in 9th after their various mishaps) at Le Mans in 98, they might well have beaten Porsche that day too. Yes the Porsche 962's of the 80's were not always the fastest in Group C, and they too had reliability on their side, but they were always fast enough. The GT1 of 1998 was nowhere near that, and it was a combination of the fast cars not finishing/having bad luck and the slow cars just being slow that gave Porsche that victory. I agree with your point that Porsche's attitude to endurance racing was becoming a bit old-fashioned, but the rest of the decade was hardly a roaring success for them either.

 

[Fredzy]

There's a bunch of cars in AC with that problem. I ended up just manually blipping the throttle myself in the end, because when it doesn't blip the throttle enough it can pitch you into a violent slide heading into a corner. Happens so suddenly it can really ruin the fun, especially on a difficult track like the Nordschleife lol.

Yea I ended up getting the hang of blipping myself. It's really awkward with paddles, but at least a little satisfying to get right. Unfortunately I tend to pump the brake when I do it and lock the tires.

 

[Mike_grpA]

Yea I ended up getting the hang of blipping myself. It's really awkward with paddles, but at least a little satisfying to get right. Unfortunately I tend to pump the brake when I do it and lock the tires.

Are you left foot braking? Or heel-toeing?

I had an old AE82 Corolla, a long time back, that was a bit of a banger in the end (it was a 4AGE twin cam model, and I thrashed the guts out of it for years as my daily, it was unkillable). At one stage it had a failing clutch, and as I always avoided spending money on it for as long as possible, I just rev-matched every shift, even when I wasn't driving hard, so even though I was competent at hell-toeing when driving hard, I learned to accurately match the revs even when taking it easy. Because of this, and experience track driving and driving hard on the country roads, I found rev matching in AC, even when left foot braking and using paddles, really straightforward.

As for the old 'Rolla: I nursed the slipping clutch for two years before it was so bad I could let the clutch out with it in gear, without any revs, and the car wouldn't move at all, it'd just idle there slipping the clutch. When I took it out to replace it, the pressure plate had no material left on it at all, and the steel was actually polished . Fair to say I got my money's worth out of that clutch haha. I actually think that the clutch being so bad saved the car from being thrashed to death for those two years. About a year after I'd put in the new clutch, I had hooned it so much I'd cracked the head, so I just chucked some chemi-weld in it to stop it from overheating, and took it for one last blast on one of my favourite tarmac rally roads. Pushed it so hard that day the front pads caught fire, I blew the head gasket, and burst the top radiator hose lmao. Sold it for $300 for parts to a mate a year later, and despite it not being started for a year, we jump started it, and he did a burnout the entire length of my street hahaha. It was as unkillable as that Hilux on Top Gear.

Edit: Got a little carried away on my trip down memory lane there. Sorry about that lol

 

[Fredzy]

Are you left foot braking? Or heel-toeing?

Left foot braking. I was a lot worse about stabbing the brake during heel-toe with my G27/H-shifter. I know a "brake mod" to make the pedal resistance more realistic would help a lot, but once we can adjust brake pressure in AC that will be mostly sorted for me anyhow.

I am prone to sudden detours down memory lane myself.. can't say I've ever put a vehicle through that kind of hell. But I did spend a good bit of time driving a dump truck with no synchros that taught me a fair bit about rev matching

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Are you left foot braking? Or heel-toeing?

I had an old AE82 Corolla, a long time back, that was a bit of a banger in the end (it was a 4AGE twin cam model, and I thrashed the guts out of it for years as my daily, it was unkillable). At one stage it had a failing clutch, and as I always avoided spending money on it for as long as possible, I just rev-matched every shift, even when I wasn't driving hard, so even though I was competent at hell-toeing when driving hard, I learned to accurately match the revs even when taking it easy. Because of this, and experience track driving and driving hard on the country roads, I found rev matching in AC, even when left foot braking and using paddles, really straightforward.

As for the old 'Rolla: I nursed the slipping clutch for two years before it was so bad I could let the clutch out with it in gear, without any revs, and the car wouldn't move at all, it'd just idle there slipping the clutch. When I took it out to replace it, the pressure plate had no material left on it at all, and the steel was actually polished . Fair to say I got my money's worth out of that clutch haha. I actually think that the clutch being so bad saved the car from being thrashed to death for those two years. About a year after I'd put in the new clutch, I had hooned it so much I'd cracked the head, so I just chucked some chemi-weld in it to stop it from overheating, and took it for one last blast on one of my favourite tarmac rally roads. Pushed it so hard that day the front pads caught fire, I blew the head gasket, and burst the top radiator hose lmao. Sold it for $300 for parts to a mate a year later, and despite it not being started for a year, we jump started it, and he did a burnout the entire length of my street hahaha. It was as unkillable as that Hilux on Top Gear.

Edit: Got a little carried away on my trip down memory lane there. Sorry about that lol

Got a Seca back then for runabout getting grocery, burned the clutch and blown the engine as well after over a year of hooning, got another engine in and gave it away to a mate in college, mad teenage years FTW

 

[Mike_grpA]

Left foot braking. I was a lot worse about stabbing the brake during heel-toe with my G27/H-shifter. I know a "brake mod" to make the pedal resistance more realistic would help a lot, but once we can adjust brake pressure in AC that will be mostly sorted for me anyhow.

Ah ok, I didn't even think about normal pot brake pedals. Yeah, I can see how easy it'd be to accidentally put a bit of brake input in with those kind of pedals. I use a set of CSPs, so it was easy to modulate the brake exactly how I wanted. There's a couple of companies who sell load cell mods for the G25/27/29 pedal sets. I'd definitely look into that if I was using one of those.

I am prone to sudden detours down memory lane myself.. can't say I've ever put a vehicle through that kind of hell. But I did spend a good bit of time driving a dump truck with no synchros that taught me a fair bit about rev matching

Yep, any time spent in a truck will teach you rev matching well. Especially matching the input and output shafts of the box with double clutching, which is something that you don't normally learn through racing. I remember when I was learning to drive, my dad taught me how to double clutch, which came in handy, as the synchros in my first car's gearbox weren't great to say the least lol.

Got a Seca back then for runabout getting grocery, burned the clutch and blown the engine as well after over a year of hooning, got another engine in and gave it away to a mate in college, mad teenage years FTW

Haha nice. Was it the 4AC? Or a twinny? Mine was a Seca as well. God the back end of those look ugly as sin, don't they?

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Haha nice. Was it the 4AC? Or a twinny? Mine was a Seca as well. God the back end of those look ugly as sin, don't they?

Not that old AE92 Seca 4A-FE, though one of my girl house mate had AE82 CS manual sedan with 4-AC, it was red and in immaculate condition-everything is original including the wheels, and she got it for about 1500 dollars, back in 2002. I taught her how to drive manual in that car

 

[Stotty]

Wheel update... I have FF... well, kind of.

Down loaded the update on the off chance it would fix my G29 issues... and I now have some force feedback... but still can't believe this is how the game is supposed to feel.

I'll explain what I have and maybe someone else with a G29/PS4 set up can tell me if this is how it's supposed to feel...

When I select drive in practice or special events, and before I engage 1st and press the accelerator, the wheel has a lot of rotational resistance (like FF 10 in GT6). When I select 1st and pull away, this resistance reduces significantly.

When driving, the wheel now counter-steers if the car over steers, and reacts to bumps etc.

BUT...

1. There's very little weight to the steering, even with FF at 100% - it's similar to GT6 with FF set to c.3 and power steering on

2. There's a massive force feedback deadzone - the car steers when the wheel moves, but there's no FF effect until around 10* of lock is applied - this makes it very difficult to place the car accurately in to corners, or correct small slides on exits

Is this the AC FF experience?

In addition, I noticed I'm only getting 75-80% of full brake travel unless I push the pedal as hard as I possibly can - which is a PITA with a wheelstand pro and carpets as to get full brake travel I have to pull back on the wheel to stop the stand sliding away.