- 5,496
- Alabamistan
When I try to start driving, the wheel (T500) jerks violently from side to side as I roll slow don the track. What's going on & what's the fix?
If you let go of the wheel does it still shake side to side?
When I try to start driving, the wheel (T500) jerks violently from side to side as I roll slow don the track. What's going on & what's the fix?
Yeah man a usb button box or keyboard is essential for games like thisHopefully yes. I would love to have FOV adjustment and my makeshift button box working.
Honestly don't know. But it might be worth checking.No. I didn't realize there was a Fanatec update available. The wheel works perfectly fine on any other game. Right after this happened I played Project Cars 2 with no trouble.
fov fix and key bindings,just watched a video on youtube by j sysum aka ratmaster 3 if you want to search it ,if you plug a keyboard into a xbox and press f2 opens up a secret menu full of key bindings for fov ,camera options and a help system its epic .just thought id share ,sorry unable to post link might work on ps4 as well
Great thanks wondering what was going onIn the assists menu there is a stability assist that is set to 100 by default. Turn it to 0 if you have not already done so
If you let go of the wheel does it still shake side to side?
Yes. If I let go of the wheel it moves violently side to side. Never encountered this before in any game. The firmware for the wheel has never been "updated" in any way ... but works fine with AC, GTSport & PCars2.
Yeah I've got the same thing going on right now with my Fanatec V2. This is not me shaking it, I'm trying to hold it to make it stop.
If I let completely go of it the wheel just spins from lock to lock. But I can play any other game and it's completely normal.
Other people must be experiencing this? What's the cause?
If you bought it from Game then they're just ripping the codes and and not giving them away for some inexplicable reason.
Yeah I've got the same thing going on right now with my Fanatec V2. This is not me shaking it, I'm trying to hold it to make it stop.
If I let completely go of it the wheel just spins from lock to lock. But I can play any other game and it's completely normal.
Yeah I've got the same thing going on right now with my Fanatec V2. This is not me shaking it, I'm trying to hold it to make it stop.
If I let completely go of it the wheel just spins from lock to lock. But I can play any other game and it's completely normal.
Thanks for the tips on wheel setup.Having now spent a few days with the game it certainly is a mixed bag. Handling, physics, dynamic weather etc are all top notch. It took a while to dial in some wheel settings I like and thought I’d share my experience here. For context I’m running the digital edition as follows:
PS4 Pro
Boost mode on
Supersampling off
TM T300 base
TM Open Wheel
TM T-LCM pedals
If you’re running a T300, I’d definitely suggest setting the wheel base to 900 degrees and having a control preset by car. My settings are:
Gain: 85%-100% (car dependant)
Min force: 0%
Dynamic Damping: 100%
Road effects: 20%
Steer lock: (as per irl car)
Ferrari/McLaren - 480
BMW - 560
Lambo/Honda - 620
Lexus/Aston/Bentley/Nissan/Merc - 640
Jag/Audi/R-EX - 720
Porsche - 800
The above degrees will give you 1:1 with the on screen wheel. Therefore, I have 6 controller presets saved that I just load depending on which car I’m in. Should you have to do this? No. But until an auto 1:1 setting is available, it’s the best way.
I’m slowly adjusting to the frame rate the more I play but it’s far from stable. It also varies from track to track and from SP to MP. Obviously 60 would be the best answer however I’d be more than happy for a locked 30 across all tracks/modes compared to its current performance. The dips can be quite unbearable at times.
On the right track, with the right settings, it’s still great fun to play. It’s just such a shame the inconsistencies let it down. I’m grateful this has even made it to consoles in the first place and I really hope they can optimise the game via patches over the coming weeks/months.
I cannot get fov to change but reposition camera is working so better view points available. Just using a USB Logitech keyboard.
1800P & 1080P - framerate and stutter feel about the same.
1800P - looks so much crisper with cleaner textures too. However, lots of LOD changes and shadows popping into view only a few 10s of metres in front of your car.
1080P - far fewer LOD changes can be seen and shadows are far more solid. However, it looks absolutely awful on my 50" UHD TV.
Looks like the wheel is possessed. That's friggin scary man. I wouldn't want to start up the game with the wheel (an expensive one to boot) violently rotating like that for fear of damaging it.
Yep and that is the one reason why I am not going to buy the game.Oh man. You gotta update it. This game is a mess.
Yep and that is the one reason why I am not going to buy the game.
What I don't understand is why release a game that has so many issues, and you would think they would address these issues before releasing the game .
The game looks amazing and that all it is and I was 100% sure on buying this game because of that, until a few days before the released date. I said to myself I like to see reviews first before I buy, and boy I was right to not to buy this game.What they've made is amazing but it's rough. It's like discovering electricity, yeah it's great but work needs to be done. I'm sure they were contracted to release the game in this time frame which might have been a bad decision.
I agree, much like AC on console, I think after a few months we'll be looking at a great product. I would like some video features as well...contrast, brightness etc., some kind of sharpness reduction slider would be great too (unfortunately on my monitor it doesn't allow this).I figured from playing that the people porting the game overlooked a lot about the console itself.
For examples:
1. the fact that you can't plug the wheel in AND use the ds4 for the menus.
2. Having to map/bind all the buttons on the wheel, that's a very pc thing to do.
3. Not accounting for the wide range of TV sets with the weird screen alignment.
4. Not having the car set to auto start on default. We had to go into the menu to do it again very pc.
I'm sure they did many things like this throughout. I'm confident they can iron out the blatant wrinkles with fps smoothness, wheel errors, interface.
Ok I got it working........for the most part. It was that DRI setting that was causing the shaking, turned that off and the shaking and spinning stopped. However when I first started the game my wheel still wasn't recognized. No pedals and no steering. Also that steering lock setting was still at 0 and it wouldn't let me change it. Disconnected the USB from the Xbox and reconnected it, the power light on my wheel goes off. I had to pull the electrical plug for about 30 seconds and plug it back in THEN everything on the wheel in game worked. I could change that steering lock setting to the per car values. But something absolutely has to be done to fix that. I can't have to do that process each time just to play this game.
Now to the game itself. Overall right now I would give it a meh. The sounds are good. I didn't get much of the stuttering that others have talked about and I left the Xbox One X on full 4k settings. The steering is bad. There is definitely some sort of lag or delay like has been mentioned before and that's even after adjusting DOR per car. Tight chicanes are a nightmare because the car won't turn fast enough so I had to go slower in order to make them and in the 90% AI strength race I ran that caused the AI to ram me.
The other thing I don't like is that to me there doesn't seem to be a sense of speed unless there is some setting I don't know about that needs to be changed.
Also I see what @Famine meant about the race engineer being difficult to hear at times. I had no idea what he was saying most of the time because his volume was very low. That needs to be fixed.
I ran two 20 minute quick races, one at Zolder in the Lambo with AI strength at 80 and aggression at 80 and I nearly lapped the field. Ran another one at Monza in the Ferrari and got spun out at the 2nd chicane and only could claw back to 17th. So getting AI strength is going to be something I need to play around with. Lapped cars getting out of the way is hilarious. They really throw the anchor out and sometimes in the wrong place like in a tight turn.
Are Pro/Ams and Am teams actually slower in this game like in the real series?
On other games I usually run numbers of laps instead of timed races. I think I might like the timed race because I can figure out how many races I can run in my nightly allotted time.
But at least I can play now. Just got to get this start up thing fixed.
The game looks amazing and that all it is and I was 100% sure on buying this game because of that, until a few days before the released date. I said to myself I like to see reviews first before I buy, and boy I was right to not to by this game.
Am I missing something? I redeemed my DLC code but the add on content is still locked. I restarted the game several times to no avail.
You have to go to manage game and the choose to install the add on pack. Entering the code just makes it available to install but does not actually install it..
CJ