Assetto Corsa Competizione Coming to PS4 and XB1, Arrives June 23

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Wondering if pacing is an easier fix than if it was struggling to hit the cap?
You’d think it should be.
Bloodborne and Dark Souls 3 run at 30fps pretty consistently on PS4 but they've never managed to get rid of the frame pacing issues in their engine, even on Pro, so I think locking ACC at 30 is going to be easier than the pacing issue personally. I hope I'm wrong and both are addressed.
 
I suppose I'm special kind of stupid for buying this game on Xbox despite already having it on PC (runs 60 fps but with occasional stuttering, have hardly played it). I had the Xbox version preordered, but ended up getting a refund, then buying it again earlier this week :lol:. Of course that means I missed the free Intercontinental GT DLC pack on console... oh well.

The game certainly looks rough at times, but I'm still very much enjoying it. I do own a wheel, but I've only been using the Xbox controller so far. Much like the console version of Assetto Corsa, this one seems to be a little harder to play with a controller compared to the PC version, even though both share the same default settings. I've left the steering assist on and fiddled with the other settings quite a lot to find something that works for me. It's still not perfect, but it's definitely playable and I can do consistent lap times for about 10-20 mins until my thumb starts hurting and I have to take a break :lol:




So far, I've mostly tried to learn the tracks I'm not very familiar with (Paul Ricard, Misano, Hungaroring) by doing short races and even that has been so much fun. I've even kind of started to like Circuit Paul Ricard... :odd:. For career mode I went with the suggested Hard difficulty and for my car I chose the '18 Bentley which has been awesome.

Kinda bummed I missed out on the Intercontinental GT pack, as I really, really like Kyalami and Bathurst is great too. Guess I'll have to buy the pack again once it's available :P
 
@Sutuki, I actually prefer playing this one on the controller on a standard than the G29 on ps4 pro for the moment.. I'm sure it's great on other wheels but the G29 feedback on this game pretty much doesn't exist so far. So I may as well play with the faster reactions on the controller. I'm normally 1.5 seconds a lap faster when the g29 on any other game but I'm about 2 seconds a lap faster on the controller on ACC compared to the G29 and also much much more consistent. I'm crashing every second lap on the G29 but I can do 20 without crashing on the controller (with all aids switched off on both)
 
I'm still struggling so bad with ACC, one minute I'm doing 5 clean laps thinking I've got the hang of it and then spend the next 2 laps sliding wide and into the wall with tankslappers, vehicle gets damaged and 50 minutes worth of racing wasted. It is certainly brutal!

I got pretty good at AC so thought I would breeze the adjustment period for ACC, boy was I wrong lol
 
@Sutuki, I actually prefer playing this one on the controller on a standard than the G29 on ps4 pro for the moment.. I'm sure it's great on other wheels but the G29 feedback on this game pretty much doesn't exist so far. So I may as well play with the faster reactions on the controller. I'm normally 1.5 seconds a lap faster when the g29 on any other game but I'm about 2 seconds a lap faster on the controller on ACC compared to the G29 and also much much more consistent. I'm crashing every second lap on the G29 but I can do 20 without crashing on the controller (with all aids switched off on both)

Well I just tried the game with the G920 and I'm literally getting 0 feedback... but I still matched my best controller lap time in 3 laps. Two more laps and I'm already 0.5s faster.

But yeah, it's not exactly fun without any feedback from the wheel :lol:
 
And once again the game has wiped all my saved data; all setups, all options, all control settings... what a joke.
The only thing left is, thankfully, my driver profile ratings. Twice now this has happened, and it happened just as the trophy popped up as I completed the 11 track championship.

If this game wasn't so much fun I'd stop playing for a month or 2 to see what they fix.
 
And once again the game has wiped all my saved data; all setups, all options, all control settings... what a joke.
The only thing left is, thankfully, my driver profile ratings. Twice now this has happened, and it happened just as the trophy popped up as I completed the 11 track championship.

If this game wasn't so much fun I'd stop playing for a month or 2 to see what they fix.
No back up save on psn?
 
I try that too but whenever my eye catches that little green split time box turning red I start pushing again. Not always a sensible thing to do I might add.

But then you get one of these and you think "there was this one corner back around the 15 minute mark, DARN IT!!!!"



But look at the split between us two at the top back to 3rd place. Once I passed that 2nd place car I got zero pressure the rest of the race. This was with the AI at 87 and me starting in 12th place which let me do kind of what I wanted, pass a lot of cars and run down the leader but negatively it put the rest of the race out of balance. You can either set it up where you can make a bunch of passes and hopefully get within striking range of lead AI or you can start theoretically on balance with the AI but they could end up being 2 seconds per lap quicker than you could ever be and you end up finishing 4th 30 seconds or more down. Pick your poison.
 
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@Sutuki, I actually prefer playing this one on the controller on a standard than the G29 on ps4 pro for the moment.. I'm sure it's great on other wheels but the G29 feedback on this game pretty much doesn't exist so far. So I may as well play with the faster reactions on the controller. I'm normally 1.5 seconds a lap faster when the g29 on any other game but I'm about 2 seconds a lap faster on the controller on ACC compared to the G29 and also much much more consistent. I'm crashing every second lap on the G29 but I can do 20 without crashing on the controller (with all aids switched off on both)

Hi, @fbetes is a Spanish player that posted in a Spanish forum his G29 settings, he's quite happy with the FFB the game offer,so i let here his settings

Gain: 98%
Min Force:12%
Damping:50%
Road effects:20%

Rotation lock as car needs:

BloqueoGiroACC.jpg


Hopefully the settings work for you and go back to the wheel instead the controller
 
I try that too but whenever my eye catches that little green split time box turning red I start pushing again. Not always a sensible thing to do I might add.

I don't like the red green timing thing, it's quite distracting as it's a relatively big display. Would prefer a plus minus or the text to be red/ green instead of a block, and also like on GTS an indicator to say if you're catching or losing time as you can be down but then you need to read the numbers to see if you're catching.

Also the band for grey is far too small, when you're within a thousandth or two of a second and it just keeps flashing from green to red it's quite annoying.
It should stay grey for at least 0.05s either side of zero
 
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Hi, @fbetes is a Spanish player that posted in a Spanish forum his G29 settings, he's quite happy with the FFB the game offer,so i let here his settings

Gain: 98%
Min Force:12%
Damping:50%
Road effects:20%

Hopefully the settings work for you and go back to the wheel instead the controller

Thanks I've tried settings almost exactly like that which I saw on the forum but the wheel just doesn't kick on or fight you as hard when sliding and kerbs like it does in other games. It's ok I know the game works stronger on other wheels, I'm getting a fanatec as soon as the PS5 compatibility and any potential new models of wheel becomes more clear. I'm slowly putting a PC together also so I'm just waiting it out to see which will work the best on ps5/pc.
 
Thanks I've tried settings almost exactly like that which I saw on the forum but the wheel just doesn't kick on or fight you as hard when sliding and kerbs like it does in other games. It's ok I know the game works stronger on other wheels, I'm getting a fanatec as soon as the PS5 compatibility and any potential new models of wheel becomes more clear. I'm slowly putting a PC together also so I'm just waiting it out to see which will work the best on ps5/pc.

If you want the wheel to ‘fight’ you, just turn the damping down and the gain up.
 
If you want the wheel to ‘fight’ you, just turn the damping down and the gain up.
Damping isn't damping in the traditional sense tho, it's more like the load from the gyro forces of the wheels. So a high DD you'll find the wheel loads up in high speed corners and gets lighter when you slow down, and with a low DD you get less change in wheel weight with speed. I didn't notice any difference in 'fight' anyway when i played with this.
Maybe road effects would also give more into the wheel (tho its a bit of a canned effect)
 
Some good information;

About Track Grip and Rubber Level

Rubber level depends on how many cars are circulating on the track.Also, the later the session is in the weekend, the more simulated rubber it will have from simulated support races.

As a rule of thumb, Friday has low grip levels, Saturday is already high and Sunday is already usually optimum grip.

Remember that Optimum grip means a grippy ideal line, but the off-line will have marbles that make it slippier than how a less grippy track off-line would be.

Marbles are visually represented and also produce an audio effect when driving on them, so you can have a good indication in terms of what you can expect.

The sequence of track grip levels are:

GREEN - no rubber, no marbles -> most slippery but grip is evenly spread.

FAST - medium rubber, medium marbles -> grippier ideal line, slippier than normal outside line.

OPTIMUM - most rubbered in, ideal line has maximum grip, outside line is very slippery.

GREASY - slippery track with low wetness level, byproduct of the rubbered line becoming wet.

DAMP - low wetness level, usually still somewhat manageable on slicks unless worsening.

WET - high wetness level with potential puddles, wet tyres recommended unless improving.

FLOODED - lots of standing water on the track, no drying line in sight.

The three dry status indicators (Green, Fast and Optimum) each cover a range, they are not a specific % of grip level, and also the different grip statuses have differing ideal line/outside line correlations.

If you imagine a range of 0-100, 0 being the least amount of grip, and 100 the highest, green, fast and optimum each cover a 20-40% range within there. So the lower end of "Fast" when it has just tipped over "Green" and the higher end where it's almost "Optimum" can produce different lap times, while still showing the same "Fast" status.

Very important: the more grip the ideal line has (i.e. the more rubbered-in it is), the more rubber debris you have on the non-ideal line, so green track has a low but evenly distributed grip level on all the tarmac surface, while optimum has a relatively big drop-off if you skid off the ideal line into the rubber debris.

Bottom line, the 3 indicators cover a range each, and the higher the grip is, the bigger the dropoff is on the outside line.

Found in this guide from official Kunos support forum;
Newcomers guide to ACC
 
Some good information;

About Track Grip and Rubber Level

Rubber level depends on how many cars are circulating on the track.Also, the later the session is in the weekend, the more simulated rubber it will have from simulated support races.

As a rule of thumb, Friday has low grip levels, Saturday is already high and Sunday is already usually optimum grip.

Remember that Optimum grip means a grippy ideal line, but the off-line will have marbles that make it slippier than how a less grippy track off-line would be.

Marbles are visually represented and also produce an audio effect when driving on them, so you can have a good indication in terms of what you can expect.

The sequence of track grip levels are:

GREEN - no rubber, no marbles -> most slippery but grip is evenly spread.

FAST - medium rubber, medium marbles -> grippier ideal line, slippier than normal outside line.

OPTIMUM - most rubbered in, ideal line has maximum grip, outside line is very slippery.

GREASY - slippery track with low wetness level, byproduct of the rubbered line becoming wet.

DAMP - low wetness level, usually still somewhat manageable on slicks unless worsening.

WET - high wetness level with potential puddles, wet tyres recommended unless improving.

FLOODED - lots of standing water on the track, no drying line in sight.

The three dry status indicators (Green, Fast and Optimum) each cover a range, they are not a specific % of grip level, and also the different grip statuses have differing ideal line/outside line correlations.

If you imagine a range of 0-100, 0 being the least amount of grip, and 100 the highest, green, fast and optimum each cover a 20-40% range within there. So the lower end of "Fast" when it has just tipped over "Green" and the higher end where it's almost "Optimum" can produce different lap times, while still showing the same "Fast" status.

Very important: the more grip the ideal line has (i.e. the more rubbered-in it is), the more rubber debris you have on the non-ideal line, so green track has a low but evenly distributed grip level on all the tarmac surface, while optimum has a relatively big drop-off if you skid off the ideal line into the rubber debris.

Bottom line, the 3 indicators cover a range each, and the higher the grip is, the bigger the dropoff is on the outside line.

Found in this guide from official Kunos support forum;
Newcomers guide to ACC
That link is something I've been looking for. Thank you.

I did not realize this game was that deep.
 
After finishing the 2 races in career mode at Misano I watched the replay. During the replay the game crashed.

I rebooted the game and I had to start the weekend ad Misano from the beginning, even though I had saved during races. :(

Good thing
I love ACC .

upload_2020-7-5_21-4-36.png
Well then...
 
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And once again the game has wiped all my saved data; all setups, all options, all control settings... what a joke.
The only thing left is, thankfully, my driver profile ratings. Twice now this has happened, and it happened just as the trophy popped up as I completed the 11 track championship.

If this game wasn't so much fun I'd stop playing for a month or 2 to see what they fix.

Have you reported it? You can do so here.
 
That link is something I've been looking for. Thank you.

I did not realize this game was that deep.
I can attest to it, as I lost a second-place finish at Paul Ricard after I strayed onto the marbles in the dark and spun.
 
Have you reported it? You can do so here.
Yes I did it after it happened.
Thankfully the aggressive presets are decent but I really want to start tuning but twice my setups have been wiped so have to hold fire a bit for the time being.
 
Well stop and go penalties dont work. Went to the pit twice to deal with it, not one counted. That and the penalties are like gtsport. The innocent gets screwed.
 
Well stop and go penalties dont work. Went to the pit twice to deal with it, not one counted. That and the penalties are like gtsport. The innocent gets screwed.

You have to select serve penalty in the pit box hud when you enter the pits. Did you get an option for that?
 
You have to select serve penalty in the pit box hud when you enter the pits. Did you get an option for that?
Not that I saw, I didn't know that was an option. It just had me sit with engine off for 30seconds so I thought it just did it.
 
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