Assetto Corsa | News and General Discussion

[Outspacer]

I just got AC when it was half price last time, and 1 dlc at the time.
logged in at work on my psn to check it out, and the prices on the dlc except the ferrari one said free. so i didn't think twice :v

but if they say purchased, you already have them?

Strange... but cool for you

I already bought it all, mostly with the season pass, one pack from pre-ordering the disk. Obviously I can't tell what someone else with just the base game would see, but it sounds like it's definitely worth them having a look!

 

[BlacqueJacques]

Just bought Ac as it was on sale on Steam yesterday - will need wheel setup (FFB) pointers

 

[Fredzy]

Just bought Ac as it was on sale on Steam yesterday - will need wheel setup (FFB) pointers

Would probably need to know what wheel you're using!

Seems like a stickied wheel/controller settings thread with most useful info in the OP would be a good idea. Would have saved a lot of hassle the past 3 years! Probably the most common questions for sure.

 

[Cote Dazur]

Seems to be issues with Windows 10 update 1803, details HERE

 

[Masscot]

Seems to be issues with Windows 10 update 1803, details HERE

Aw, FFS....

 

[LeGeNd-1]

Just bought Ac as it was on sale on Steam yesterday - will need wheel setup (FFB) pointers

Gain setting is your main strength. The others I leave at zero as they are all canned effects, except for ABS effect I put a teeny tiny bit at 5%.
With my Logitech G25, I put 107% strength in profiler (spring, damper, autocenter all 0%) and Gain at 100%.
With my Thrustmaster T-GT, I put 65% strength in profiler (others 0%) and Gain at 100%.
As others have said, letting us know what wheel you use will help. But you can guesstimate based on your wheel's strength and my numbers above.
I like to mess with my wheel profiler setting first because I find the AC Gain is not granular enough, and it messes the individual car gains if I change it around too much (see below).
Make sure you do the full wheel and pedals calibration when you start AC for the first time. Especially the rotation (I use 900 degree). AC auto adjusts your wheel rotation to match the car's in real life, so if you don't set this properly everything will feel wonky.
Brake gamma is the linearity of your pedal. If you have a load cell set it to fully linear (1.0). I have stock pedals so I set mine to default 2.40.

Also, download FFBClip app from RD here: https://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/ffbclip-app.7910/
Just read through the instructions, it's pretty straightforward. Basically AC also allows individual car FFB multiplier in addition to the Master Gain setting (can be adjusted on track with keyboard +/- button). What FFBClip does is adjusts this setting automatically to minimise clipping and give you the strongest FFB possible without losing information. There's several settings too if you prefer slightly weaker/stronger FFB.

Any questions just ask away. Enjoy the best driving experience this side of real life

 

[BrandonW77]

Curb effect is the only canned effect, road and slip simply amplify the existing signals.

 

[Dopplegagger]

About the FFB gain... Is there a way I can set it for all the cars in the game? I'm using the Side Kick app and I'm getting tired of stopping and setting the gain on every individual car. If there was a way to set the FFB not to clip while keeping the strength as strong as possible, I'd be ecstatic.

Apparently I need to read more, and post less. The answer I was looking for is 2 posts above me. Sigh...

 

[20832]

About the FFB gain... Is there a way I can set it for all the cars in the game? I'm using the Side Kick app and I'm getting tired of stopping and setting the gain on every individual car. If there was a way to set the FFB not to clip while keeping the strength as strong as possible, I'd be ecstatic.

Apparently I need to read more, and post less. The answer I was looking for is 2 posts above me. Sigh...

https://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/ffbclip-app.7910/

Works wonders

 

[Dopplegagger]

https://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/ffbclip-app.7910/

Works wonders

Yes it does. I just got finished testing the app, and Oh Boy! Its truly a set and forget sort of thing. I just had to lower Maximum output from 200 to 100 (percent I think) and the app did the rest.
Just to see how it worked, I had Side Kick open, and the Force Feedback app open. It was kind of cool watching the FFB app change to match the TSA percentages from FFBClip. And Side Kick didn't make as much as a peep when the FFB neared clipping. If the FFB meter did spike red, it was only for a fraction of a second at the start of the lap. After that the meter stayed grey and left me alone. All while the wheel was nice and forceful.

Thanks A Million for the suggestion!

 

[Tajima]

So the FXXK has MGU that make it faster, but I fail to understand how to use it properly in this sim. I can just change "long run" "qualify" "charging" but I don't see a real boost on car hud.

EDIT: saw the MGU-K green bar right under Rpm. Basically I need an out lap with charging on, then swap to qualify right before flying lap. But "qualify" boost run out pretty fast so I need to swap "charging" back again on the twisty part of the track building up some energy to use on the straights, and so on.

 

[BlacqueJacques]

Gain setting is your main strength. The others I leave at zero as they are all canned effects, except for ABS effect I put a teeny tiny bit at 5%.
With my Logitech G25, I put 107% strength in profiler (spring, damper, autocenter all 0%) and Gain at 100%.
With my Thrustmaster T-GT, I put 65% strength in profiler (others 0%) and Gain at 100%.
As others have said, letting us know what wheel you use will help. But you can guesstimate based on your wheel's strength and my numbers above.
I like to mess with my wheel profiler setting first because I find the AC Gain is not granular enough, and it messes the individual car gains if I change it around too much (see below).
Make sure you do the full wheel and pedals calibration when you start AC for the first time. Especially the rotation (I use 900 degree). AC auto adjusts your wheel rotation to match the car's in real life, so if you don't set this properly everything will feel wonky.
Brake gamma is the linearity of your pedal. If you have a load cell set it to fully linear (1.0). I have stock pedals so I set mine to default 2.40.

Also, download FFBClip app from RD here: https://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/ffbclip-app.7910/
Just read through the instructions, it's pretty straightforward. Basically AC also allows individual car FFB multiplier in addition to the Master Gain setting (can be adjusted on track with keyboard +/- button). What FFBClip does is adjusts this setting automatically to minimise clipping and give you the strongest FFB possible without losing information. There's several settings too if you prefer slightly weaker/stronger FFB.

Any questions just ask away. Enjoy the best driving experience this side of real life

I am using the T300 Ferrari Integral RW Alcantara Edition with the F1 wheel add on.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

So the FXXK has MGU that make it faster, but I fail to understand how to use it properly in this sim. I can just change "long run" "qualify" "charging" but I don't see a real boost on car hud.

EDIT: saw the MGU-K green bar right under Rpm. Basically I need an out lap with charging on, then swap to qualify right before flying lap. But "qualify" boost run out pretty fast so I need to swap "charging" back again on the twisty part of the track building up some energy to use on the straights, and so on.

Usually for cars with electric assist I just put it in the balanced/long run mode and deploy extra juice manually using KERS button (can be set in options). Due to how my rig is set up, I can't reach the keyboard easily when I'm driving so it's just easier than switching back and forth between modes. Also, I find the qualify mode runs out too quickly for most tracks and it's too "spiky" on corner exits. Manual deployment is more strategic AND you have greater control of when you deploy that power.

I am using the T300 Ferrari Integral RW Alcantara Edition with the F1 wheel add on.

T300 is slightly weaker than T-GT so I think my numbers will suit just fine. Start with 65-70% gain from the TM profiler, 100% in game and see how you go 👍

 

[Tajima]

Usually for cars with electric assist I just put it in the balanced/long run mode and deploy extra juice manually using KERS button (can be set in options). Due to how my rig is set up, I can't reach the keyboard easily when I'm driving so it's just easier than switching back and forth between modes. Also, I find the qualify mode runs out too quickly for most tracks and it's too "spiky" on corner exits. Manual deployment is more strategic AND you have greater control of when you deploy that power.

I totally agree with your view on the matter. Despite that I think Kunos made a mediocre effort on simulating weight transfer on this car. Yes it is fast on straight but it doesn't feel nowhere near as planted as the real car. Sometimes it just feel understeery and oversteery immediately after. It should feel more or less like a Zonda R on corners instead sometimes it feels like a boat.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

Mmm not sure about the weight transfer bit. I think it's mainly an issue of downforce. Despite how it looks, the FXXK actually doesn't have nowhere near as much downforce as a racecar. It's more of a high end hypercar that just happens to be track only. The FXXK EVO only has 830kg according to its press release, and it has ~30% more than the FXXK standard. A quick google shows the Zonda R produces 2000kg of downforce. More than twice as much. With that kind of power and such light weight, the lack of downforce really shows.

Weirdly though, I always find the Zonda trickier to drive than the FXXK.

 

[Tajima]

Mmm not sure about the weight transfer bit. I think it's mainly an issue of downforce. Despite how it looks, the FXXK actually doesn't have nowhere near as much downforce as a racecar. It's more of a high end hypercar that just happens to be track only. The FXXK EVO only has 830kg according to its press release, and it has ~30% more than the FXXK standard. A quick google shows the Zonda R produces 2000kg of downforce. More than twice as much. With that kind of power and such light weight, the lack of downforce really shows.

Weirdly though, I always find the Zonda trickier to drive than the FXXK.

I always drive at Spa and weight transfer issues comes to light expecially at Eau Rouge. Basically you almost need to drive like an old Ruf Yellowbird from Gran Turismo, predicting the back stepping out and be a bit conservative. Even if it doesn't have race car downforce it has a huge mobile rear wing coming out to plant the car on corner exit, not to mention that massive diffuser. They are there for a reason. But Kunos version doesn't seems to simulate dynamic downforce properly imho. Also mechanical grip doesn't give a "safety threshold" to push hard and be consistent. You need to drive this car like an old (hybrid) muscle car with 1000hp limiting time loss on corners and catchup on the straight. That said Zoanda R and Ferrari 599XX Evo are basically what I was expecting.

Edit: Good news, I found a decent setup, now it fells like a proper race car. Battling and winning against Porsche Gt1, Zonda R, McLaren P1 Gtr at 100% Ai strength.

Tyre pressure slick medium
24psi front
23psi rear

Tc 2
Abs 3
Swap Mguk to charghing long run.Use qualify on the end of last lap.

Camber F -2.5deg
Toe F 2
Camber R -1.3deg
Toe R 3

Suspension
3 F
2 R.

 

[OooAhh Cantona]

Seems to be issues with Windows 10 update 1803, details HERE

Does anyone know the issue and resolution? I read the thread on official forum and it seems to focus on wheels and VR. Stupid Windows update messed up my laptop and I had to do fresh install of OS. I'm on Win 1803 and I downloaded latest Nvidia driver. But now I can't play the game. AC launcher works. CM works. But when I click on Start (AC) or Drive (CM), nothing happens. Screen goes blank for a moment, then returns to the launcher.
🤬

 

[Tajima]

Does anyone know the issue and resolution? I read the thread on official forum and it seems to focus on wheels and VR. Stupid Windows update messed up my laptop and I had to do fresh install of OS. I'm on Win 1803 and I downloaded latest Nvidia driver. But now I can't play the game. AC launcher works. CM works. But when I click on Start (AC) or Drive (CM), nothing happens. Screen goes blank for a moment, then returns to the launcher.
🤬

MAYBE you are using more than 8x Anti Aliasing. It did the same you described when I forced that in video ini config file.

 

[BrandonW77]

Does anyone know the issue and resolution? I read the thread on official forum and it seems to focus on wheels and VR. Stupid Windows update messed up my laptop and I had to do fresh install of OS. I'm on Win 1803 and I downloaded latest Nvidia driver. But now I can't play the game. AC launcher works. CM works. But when I click on Start (AC) or Drive (CM), nothing happens. Screen goes blank for a moment, then returns to the launcher.
🤬

That sounds like what happens when your resolution in the in-game menu isn't setup correctly.

 

[OooAhh Cantona]

MAYBE you are using more than 8x Anti Aliasing. It did the same you described when I forced that in video ini config file.

The in-game setting for anisotropic was 16x, which I'm positive I was running pre Windows update. I changed to 8x and that did not solve the problem. Lowered antialiasing setting as well, and that didn't solve it.

That sounds like what happens when your resolution in the in-game menu isn't setup correctly.

I'm not sure what I should change. I was running 1920x1080 before the Windows update. AC setting is currently 1920x1080, which matches Nvidia control panel. I have GTX 970M which can handle the graphics.

The pros and cons of PC gaming. Sadly I'm experiencing the cons. Who wants to buy an ASUS gaming laptop? I'm approaching "🤬 this!" stage.

 

[BrandonW77]

I'm not sure what I should change. I was running 1920x1080 before the Windows update. AC setting is currently 1920x1080, which matches Nvidia control panel. I have GTX 970M which can handle the graphics.

The pros and cons of PC gaming. Sadly I'm experiencing the cons. Who wants to buy an ASUS gaming laptop? I'm approaching "🤬 this!" stage.

Sounds like you've got it set correctly. I'm presuming you've done an integrity check? Beyond that I'm out of ideas.

 

[Cote Dazur]

The in-game setting for anisotropic was 16x, which I'm positive I was running pre Windows update. I changed to 8x and that did not solve the problem. Lowered antialiasing setting as well, and that didn't solve it.

I'm not sure what I should change. I was running 1920x1080 before the Windows update. AC setting is currently 1920x1080, which matches Nvidia control panel. I have GTX 970M which can handle the graphics.

The pros and cons of PC gaming. Sadly I'm experiencing the cons. Who wants to buy an ASUS gaming laptop? I'm approaching "🤬 this!" stage.

Since your issue seems to be related to the window update, you can always roll back to an earlier version, I cannot tell you how to do it, but I have done it before, it is not hard to do. At least every thing will be back to what it was before the update and you will enjoy your game.

 

[Corsa]

Since your issue seems to be related to the window update, you can always roll back to an earlier version, I cannot tell you how to do it, but I have done it before, it is not hard to do. At least every thing will be back to what it was before the update and you will enjoy your game.

Start Menu > Settings > Update & Security > Recovery.
Select go back to previous build.
Done.

 

[Cote Dazur]

Start Menu > Settings > Update & Security > Recovery.
Select go back to previous build.
Done.

just did that, 1803 is a mess.
also just did:
Stop The Windows Update Service

1. Open the Run command (Win + R), in it type: services.msc and press enter.
2. From the Services list which appears find the Windows Update service and open it.
3. In 'Startup Type' (under the 'General' tab) change it to 'Disabled'
4. Restart.

I should be ok for a while.

 

[Corsa]

I'm still on 1709, 1803 seems like a WIP beta still and I refuse to be a puppet for Microsoft.
Still, beats Mac imo.

 

[Cote Dazur]

I'm still on 1709, 1803 seems like a WIP beta still and I refuse to be a puppet for Microsoft.
Still, beats Mac imo.

 

[OooAhh Cantona]

Sounds like you've got it set correctly. I'm presuming you've done an integrity check? Beyond that I'm out of ideas.

Since your issue seems to be related to the window update, you can always roll back to an earlier version, I cannot tell you how to do it, but I have done it before, it is not hard to do. At least every thing will be back to what it was before the update and you will enjoy your game.

Problem solved! It was Good Bad Weather reshader. I had to remove the dll application extension.

Thanks to all that offered possible solutions!

 

[super_gt]

I drive lately the street cars with 150kg ballast and for me personally this way physics feels more realistic.The FFB feels smoother,there is a bigger tire flex,when the car is set up to be loose(and during oversteer)there is a strange shake in the wheel and in the car body which is minimized with the ballast.
With 150kg ballast the feeling is very close to Live for Speed.

 

[Cote Dazur]

@super_gt you say it feels more realistic and more like live for speed, which one is it?

 

[ALB123]

I drive lately the street cars with 150kg ballast and for me personally this way physics feels more realistic.The FFB feels smoother,there is a bigger tire flex,when the car is set up to be loose(and during oversteer)there is a strange shake in the wheel and in the car body which is minimized with the ballast.
With 150kg ballast the feeling is very close to Live for Speed.

Lately, I've been filling my fuel tank to the max before going out on the track/roads. I believe it makes a difference...especially in older street cars that don't have the greatest brakes to begin with.