Best car for Le Mans 30 minute 700 race?

31
United Kingdom
United Kingdom
So far I have been beating this race fairly easily in the Genesis G70 Gr.4 with minor adjustments. However, are there any other cars that are any better to do this race in? I was thinking maybe of getting the Toyota Supra GT500 97 but is it actually worth it if I already have a car that I can comfortably win the race with? Would the difference be noticeable or fairly similar? 1.8 mil is a lot to spend simply for a few seconds of time difference.
 
IMHO the best car for beginners and others that want an "easy grind" of the WTC700 30 minutes would be the REDBULL Junior. It only costs 350K, and you can easily get 5-6 laps on ONE tank of fuel not needing to change tyres unless it rains hard.
I agree on that ......even if i don't " like " that car .
Its cheap , easy to drive , flexible fuel management which means no late surprises from the weather or double pitstops due to fuel etc.
Was from the " favourite " cars for that race for many players and still remains for some .

Taking note that griding races are unlocked at level 39 its a good and cheap selection for someone to start.

Although, very soon will rize the neoclassical menu and its when trouble starts and you have to wait for LCD to release one of the well known " suspects" in order to pass it.

That's why i advice new players to save credits during their progress using cars that the game provide and not miss R92CP and mazda 787 when they are available.
Not long ago many players was stack in that menu due to lack of the appropriate car in order to race it.
Hopefully, all those cars from that " group" are very good for la sarthe race with top picks the two i mention.
Its one shot ........ two birds down 😂
I remember very well , before even get my ps5 and gt7 , many players asking for help ( desperately ) for that neoclassical menu .
 
Any of the Gr4 cars can win again easy mode AI but you'll need to be getting down to 4:15 pace if your target is hard AI. Any Gr3 car with a suitable nerf can win easily enought.

Personally I use my F1 long tail '97 as I race in VR and love the view out and the lap counter on the dash.

Anyway as I've done my GT7 race today I've switched on my PS2 and I'm having my ass handed to me in the El Capitan 200 in GT4.
 
Honest, for a fun ride, use the Shelby Cobra Daytona Coupe. That'll ease the wallet pain considerably.
I also had an outstanding ride in the Mustang Gr4 at Dragon Trail this weekend. The key there is light tuning, just enough to remove the boat anchors and make it work. I softened up the front and ran both RH and RS tires, no TCS or ASM.

Yeah the Cob-Ra is a superb ride for driving fun. Like you say Racing rubber and nothing else changed... very good fun and distinct driving experience. No aids, apart from usual ABS full.

Must admit, also wheeled in a new tranny system for some races, in order to extend its top end for a certain track/race. But no other upgrades or adjustments for me. Its a thing of beauty, once you've deployed decent tyres.

It's now approaching midnight in UK and I've awoken with insomnia again. Time to make most of it and will wheel out the Cob-ra amongst other classics I think.

The ferrari 288 gto is another beautiful experience for me... sound, drivability/controllable oversteer (like the Cob-ra,) makes it another one I'd recommend.

Believe youre also vr2 @shadoq , for whatever that's worth.
 
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I agree on that ......even if i don't " like " that car .
Its cheap , easy to drive , flexible fuel management which means no late surprises from the weather or double pitstops due to fuel etc.
Was from the " favourite " cars for that race for many players and still remains for some .

Taking note that griding races are unlocked at level 39 its a good and cheap selection for someone to start.

Although, very soon will rize the neoclassical menu and its when trouble starts and you have to wait for LCD to release one of the well known " suspects" in order to pass it.

That's why i advice new players to save credits during their progress using cars that the game provide and not miss R92CP and mazda 787 when they are available.
Not long ago many players was stack in that menu due to lack of the appropriate car in order to race it.
Hopefully, all those cars from that " group" are very good for la sarthe race with top picks the two i mention.
Its one shot ........ two birds down 😂
I remember very well , before even get my ps5 and gt7 , many players asking for help ( desperately ) for that neoclassical menu .

Those 2 cars also good for Sardegna.

As the ents in LOTR's would say 'don't be hasty...'.

I'd also recommend prioritising funds for classic and ticket cars. Given the games ludicrous rotation system and potentially having to wait months for them to reappear.
 
B80
Yeah the Cob-Ra is a superb ride for driving fun. Like you say Racing rubber and nothing else changed... very good fun and distinct driving experience. No aids, apart from usual ABS full.

Must admit, also wheeled in a new tranny system for some races, in order to extend its top end for a certain track/race. But no other upgrades or adjustments for me. Its a thing of beauty, once you've deployed decent tyres.

It's now approaching midnight in UK and I've awoken with insomnia again. Time to make most of it and will wheel out the Cob-ra amongst other classics I think.

The ferrari 288 gto is another beautiful experience for me... sound, drivability/controllable oversteer (like the Cob-ra,) makes it another one I'd recommend.

Believe youre also vr2 @shadoq , for whatever that's worth.
Yep, I'm running VR and a controller. I have a wheel but haven't built the stand/cockpit yet. I want to make it compatible with Command & Conquer running "keyboard" and mouse, Virtual On, and Colony Wars.
 
Can you specify the models , i run once the Cayman yesterday but wasn't impressed.
Maybe those you mention are better in this category.
Thanks.
I assume you’re not racing against “easy” AI? Because that’s what I currently do to grind money to complete the remaining extra menus. Also, because I still consider myself a beginner.

Anyway, I exclusively drive the Cayman Gr.4 with hard racing tyres and fuel map 6. Unless I need to change to wet/intermediate and then back again, because the track got dry very quickly, this gets me around 6-7 laps with only one refuelling pit stop.

I have yet to try it with “normal” AI, but I reckon, I’ll have to make changes to my fuel map strategy then. Tried Sardegna today in my 911 RSR against normal AI and otherwise same strategy as against easy - and came in 2nd 15 seconds after 1st. I guess, something similar applies to Le Mans too.

But the Cayman and the 911 RSR are just so good in handling and stability, because of their midship engines. Especially the 911 RSR is like going on rails, unless you really drive like a madman.
 
Any of the Gr4 cars can win again easy mode AI but you'll need to be getting down to 4:15 pace if your target is hard AI. Any Gr3 car with a suitable nerf can win easily enought.

Personally I use my F1 long tail '97 as I race in VR and love the view out and the lap counter on the dash.

Anyway as I've done my GT7 race today I've switched on my PS2 and I'm having my ass handed to me in the El Capitan 200 in GT4.
I will try to step up from easy to normal AI next week to see how much I will have to improve my driving and strategy…
 
@Everpure you assume.,... wrong .
90 times in a 100 am on easy level

I use a lot of cars for that race but since they are " unknown " factors i start on easy level.
Unknown factors are mostly their fuel consumption and their pace at stock mode and i don't want surprises 😂
Also when rain hits the track i always end at 6 laps.
If their is a car i like , i try to set it as best i can and am trying for the best possible best lap with free air .
Racing at hard mode you can move usually faster taking advantage of the AI in front of you while this can't happened at easy level.
Most of the times i run hard level when am testing " non stop " cars on intermediate tyres to ensure that can really win there.
Of course after so many races now i know if they can only from their lap times .
I usually don't race swapped cars but those Porsche seems they are good options.
 
You make that " thing " fly .....
how many pitstops ? two ?
and what FM you use ?
FM3 for just over 3 laps,
Did 2 pit stops, first for full wets and second for Racing Mediums, then changed to FM1 as there were just 2 laps left.
Was in Hard AI since they’re better to overtake without them slowing down too much in the turns.

Used the tune in my tuning thread but changed it to Racing Hard tyres to start on.
 
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Hello
I was an anonymous forum reader, but in this thread I would like to brag about the car I drive to Le Mans and Neoclassic races. This is a Nissan R32 GT-R V-Spec II 94 after replacing the engine for 1.2 million credits.

In Le Mans, tuned to 699.99PP, Fuel Map 3 and after overtaking everyone I change in fuel map 6 (depending on the situation on the track - rain, accidents). The fuel in the tank is enough for 4 to 7 laps depending on the fuel map. Hard racing tires.

I start the race on FM3 (there is no point in FM 1 because the consumption increases, and the performance and speed are the same on FM3) after 2 long straights I am 4-5th, and before completing the first lap I am in first place. On the 3-4th lap I get caught in the rain and I change the tires to intermediate ones, I have about 50-60% fuel in the tank so I fill it up completely.

I tested many vehicles, 90% of the cars had problems with fuel - for 2 laps 🤦🏽‍♀️ - wasted money, recently I tested the car Alfa Romeo Giulia GTAm '20 fuel for 2 laps, poor performance, hole in the tank, you can win, but you have to try work hard and get a little lucky...

It's easy to make a car with 700PP, but few of these vehicles have good performance and low fuel consumption...
Regards
 
Just the fact that you can coast using a controller. I’ve done it since day 1. It’s how I managed to get certain cars around LeMans on only 2 tanks of fuel.
Sorry, just saw that you answered here. (this forum doesn't seem to give a notification if someone answers your post; maybe a matter of settings, have to check this.)

Since English isn't my first language and I wasn't really sure what coasting exactly means, I searched and found this:

"Coasting essentially means to move, either a person or vehicle, and make progress without using power or as little effort as possible. In terms of coasting when driving, it means keeping the clutch depressed so as to free-wheel and not use the engine to move."

But you can't do this on a controller, can you? If so, how? I understand there's no clutch for controller, since I guess very few ppl would use it, but I don't get why there's no neutral in a "real driving simulator".
 
But you can't do this on a controller, can you? If so, how? I understand there's no clutch for controller, since I guess very few ppl would use it, but I don't get why there's no neutral in a "real driving simulator".
I guess, on controller you can only simply lift the accelerator instead, which though is something different may refer to the same in this case?
 
Hello
I was an anonymous forum reader, but in this thread I would like to brag about the car I drive to Le Mans and Neoclassic races. This is a Nissan R32 GT-R V-Spec II 94 after replacing the engine for 1.2 million credits.

In Le Mans, tuned to 699.99PP, Fuel Map 3 and after overtaking everyone I change in fuel map 6 (depending on the situation on the track - rain, accidents). The fuel in the tank is enough for 4 to 7 laps depending on the fuel map. Hard racing tires.

I start the race on FM3 (there is no point in FM 1 because the consumption increases, and the performance and speed are the same on FM3) after 2 long straights I am 4-5th, and before completing the first lap I am in first place. On the 3-4th lap I get caught in the rain and I change the tires to intermediate ones, I have about 50-60% fuel in the tank so I fill it up completely.

I tested many vehicles, 90% of the cars had problems with fuel - for 2 laps 🤦🏽‍♀️ - wasted money, recently I tested the car Alfa Romeo Giulia GTAm '20 fuel for 2 laps, poor performance, hole in the tank, you can win, but you have to try work hard and get a little lucky...

It's easy to make a car with 700PP, but few of these vehicles have good performance and low fuel consumption...
Regards

You can join our company here
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...-report-and-other-stuff.422445/#post-14088445
and share your experience, thoughts or whatever about it .
 
Sorry, just saw that you answered here. (this forum doesn't seem to give a notification if someone answers your post; maybe a matter of settings, have to check this.)

Since English isn't my first language and I wasn't really sure what coasting exactly means, I searched and found this:

"Coasting essentially means to move, either a person or vehicle, and make progress without using power or as little effort as possible. In terms of coasting when driving, it means keeping the clutch depressed so as to free-wheel and not use the engine to move."

But you can't do this on a controller, can you? If so, how? I understand there's no clutch for controller, since I guess very few ppl would use it, but I don't get why there's no neutral in a "real driving simulator".
Yes, you can coast using a controller because of the way the game is designed. Even though there is no clutch or neutral, when you remove your finger (or thumb) from the input you use to accelerate the vehicle immediately behaves as if you’ve put it in neutral. You literally coast until eventually you either stop or give input to accelerate again.
 
Hello
I was an anonymous forum reader, but in this thread I would like to brag about the car I drive to Le Mans and Neoclassic races. This is a Nissan R32 GT-R V-Spec II 94 after replacing the engine for 1.2 million credits.

In Le Mans, tuned to 699.99PP, Fuel Map 3 and after overtaking everyone I change in fuel map 6 (depending on the situation on the track - rain, accidents). The fuel in the tank is enough for 4 to 7 laps depending on the fuel map. Hard racing tires.

I start the race on FM3 (there is no point in FM 1 because the consumption increases, and the performance and speed are the same on FM3) after 2 long straights I am 4-5th, and before completing the first lap I am in first place. On the 3-4th lap I get caught in the rain and I change the tires to intermediate ones, I have about 50-60% fuel in the tank so I fill it up completely.

I tested many vehicles, 90% of the cars had problems with fuel - for 2 laps 🤦🏽‍♀️ - wasted money, recently I tested the car Alfa Romeo Giulia GTAm '20 fuel for 2 laps, poor performance, hole in the tank, you can win, but you have to try work hard and get a little lucky...

It's easy to make a car with 700PP, but few of these vehicles have good performance and low fuel consumption...
Regards
Try some of the Classic cars there are plenty that have decent fuel economy and are competitive against modern cars. The Honda 272 will give you 10 laps of fuel,tyres that last the whole race and you can get 170+ mph on FM6 down Mulsanne.
 
I never use this one , can you share your settings please ......
Am always " thirsty " for low fuel consumption cars for that race .
LOL, this is literally a STOCK build, all i did was adjust the aero on rear wing to pick up PP to 640, RH tyres and when it rained it was IMs
you may have to drive conservatively at times to stretch fuel at the bottom of tank, coasting little before the mulsanne turn and just before you reach Indianapolis.
 
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Nissan R32 configuration at Le Mans. Lap time is longer due to weather confusion. 90% of the time I wait at the finish line before the start of the 7th lap.

The car's setup can still be improved, it drivers at a maximum of 300 km/h~. The car has balance because it is fast in corners and on straights. It is very economical FM 3 and FM6. The only drawback may be that the front tires wear out a little faster than the rear ones.

I forgot to say - I play on a pad, I can't use the "clutch" and GT7 has no option for the user using the pad to support the automatic transmission and force the user to downshift faster or shift into a higher gear.

Greetings


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The answer to the thread title in theory is which car can go the furthest distance in 30 minutes. Has anyone done 8 laps?
Plenty have.
 
The answer to the thread title in theory is which car can go the furthest distance in 30 minutes. Has anyone done 8 laps?

8 laps in 30 minutes is impossible, first there isn't such a fast car in this pp category and second if you "make " ( theoretically ) one , you gonna need at least one time tyres and fuel .
Other than that, every car that need one stop for 7 laps and move under 4.10 area can do 8 laps and they are many of them.
Lapping under 4.00 minutes , allow you to do 2 pitstops and still find your self in 8 laps race .
Of course all the above need the help of the weather to have a dry race .


Best car for that race is what pleases everyone the most , thats the reality and thats why they are too many options.
Might be a slower one or fast one , easy or difficult to drive , might need one stop , two stops or none ,
It's about personal choice and experience that you gain using multiple cars .
If someone looking for specific characteristics , only then the answer will be specific.
For example, if someone ( newbie mostly ) looking for an easy way and trouble free from the weather car, that's have an answer.
Cheapest car also have an answer,etc.etc.

I like Monica Bellucci, you like sarliz theron , who can blame us and what for?😂
 
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