BODY RIGIDITY DETERIORATES WAY TOO FAST
- Thread starter dixonbaps
- 294 comments
- 41,683 views
- 383
- Mushroom Valley
- Dean200271
I think it's just the high end race cars that are affected the most, LMP's mainly. It's as if the extent of rigidity deterioration is highly exaggerated for LMP's but not nearly as much for the lower end race cars/street cars etc.
I have been doing some testing over the last couple of days with a brand new LMP. Here's what I did.
I went to the dealership and bought a brand new LMP. A "PEUGEOT 908 HDI FAP" this time to be exact. The only thing I did do was give it a wash and a new oil change and left everything stock, not change any setting in the suspension, brakes etc. except reduced it's power so that it was 650PP so I could enter it in the 24 Minutes of Nurburgring race.
Then I did the 24 minutes of Nurburgring over and over and over
.It was at around 300 or so miles that I noticed a little bit of handling problem's as I did with my "Bentley Speed 8" and also my top speed had dropped by about 5 MPH, So after that race I went to the Pit Service Area to check on things and all was good with everything so I left it at that. What I did notice when I went back to do the race again, at the race menu I saw that the PP had dropped 7 points and also the power had dropped 26 BHP. I thought that may be the problem, The oil. So I carried on with the racing and the handling got worse and worse. Believe me, I have run Nurburgring Norschliefe for hours on end in an LMP since GT5 to notice any change in handling. I did the Nurburgring 24 hour endurance numerous times in GT5.
But anyway, When that race had finished my milage was at 359.3 miles. So I went to the Pit Service Area again and right on cue, The rigidity warning was there. But this time I didn't do the restore. I just changed the Oil instead and went back to the 24 Minutes of Nurburgring race.
All the oil change did was give me back the lost BHP and restored my PP back to 650 and give me back the little bit of speed I lost, Nothing else. Started the race and guess what? the handling was still bad. So I think that rules out the oil/rigidity mix up.
I managed to finish the race and went and got my rigidity restored and then went and did the race yet again.
This time, Hey Presto, The handling was back to normal as if it was a brand new car.
The cost of a restore ain't so much of an issue now with the increased payout's (Thanks PD:tup
. But the problem is still there. I don't think it's anything to do with the oil.If you're in the middle of let's say "The Dreamcar Championship" for example and your rigidity deterioration hit's the magical 350 mile mark, You're pretty much screwed to try and finish the championship if you're in an LMP. Racing around the Nordschleife while crashing at nearly every corner at 170mph+ just isn't fun in my book.
As I said before, I don't think the lower end race cars/street cars are affected nowhere nearly as much as LMP's.
Still no LMP but i just did 750km wit the McLaren F1 Stealth
(636pp/502kW/1.100kg, 100% stock, only front DF to max and TC4)
I did the 15min races a few times (best lap Nordschleife 6:38)
Then i did the Dreamcar Camp. (Pathetic AI let me "win" all races but Lemans)
After that i had 465km on it.
Did the 15min Nordschleife again (60km+) so the warning went on somewhere during that.
Times 6:44/6:38/6:38, last 2 with 2 bigger mistakes each.
No difference in handling at all, this thing drives like a dream !
I did the Dreamcar Champ. Again, this time "won" all races, car still drives perfect.
And now i just finished the 15min. Nordschleife again, 6:43/6:36,8/6:34,0 the 2nd place F1 GTR was over 1min. back at the last split.
Now 750 km on it and it is still just perfect to drive, does exactly what i want and if it bites because i go over a curb to hard etc. it is still easy to catch.
I also tried the cheaper "increase body rigidity" option in the morning on the Z4, made no difference in time.
I had the slight feeling that it was more difficult to drive, but i guess this was more me not "warmed up" than the car being any different.
(636pp/502kW/1.100kg, 100% stock, only front DF to max and TC4)
I did the 15min races a few times (best lap Nordschleife 6:38)
Then i did the Dreamcar Camp. (Pathetic AI let me "win" all races but Lemans)
After that i had 465km on it.
Did the 15min Nordschleife again (60km+) so the warning went on somewhere during that.
Times 6:44/6:38/6:38, last 2 with 2 bigger mistakes each.
No difference in handling at all, this thing drives like a dream !
I did the Dreamcar Champ. Again, this time "won" all races, car still drives perfect.
And now i just finished the 15min. Nordschleife again, 6:43/6:36,8/6:34,0 the 2nd place F1 GTR was over 1min. back at the last split.
Now 750 km on it and it is still just perfect to drive, does exactly what i want and if it bites because i go over a curb to hard etc. it is still easy to catch.
I also tried the cheaper "increase body rigidity" option in the morning on the Z4, made no difference in time.
I had the slight feeling that it was more difficult to drive, but i guess this was more me not "warmed up" than the car being any different.
Last edited:
What do you mean with what else ?
Always drive with all game aids like SRF, stability whatever, ideal line, gear suggestion and so on OFF, if thats what you mean.
Setup was stock with race hard, only change i made was front downforce to max. and traction control to 4.
Edit:
ok, just found the mistake.6:xx,xxx of corse
Last edited:
Over 1300 km now on my V12 LMR (683lp,616kW/900kg drive it like i bought it, only new oil sometimes)
Drives like new, i cant feel anything deteriorating.
Did the GT-World Champ. with it when it was new and when it had 1100km on it, no difference.
Nice races but AI to slow, always get them in 2nd lap and the barely fight back.
In the 2nd run i had only a single crash/spin/wall touch in the whole championship.
(Bathurst without touching a single AI car too)
After that i made a backup, made the 500.000 Cr. Rigidity reset and did the last race again (Nür24h)
No difference in handling
(in the championship my 2nd lap was a 7:43 in the single race 7:42)
Did go back to the backup before the reset and did the race again.
No difference in handling
1st lap was a 7:40,9 (missed braking for 1st corner 2nd lap as i was still looking at the time )
So my opinion still is:
There is no such thing as deteriorating body rigidity !
Save your money.
I would like to know some laptimes of the people who can feel a big difference after the repair, i can only imagine that i drive to slow/careful to feel a difference.
The "Like the Wind" races are a walk in the park (only some gearbox and downforce changes)
Top speed on test track 417, race time 4:25
Indy i do 0:42,2 without slipstream
GT-World Champ times:
Bathurst 1:53,5
Laguna 1:16,9
Spa 2:05,8
Silverst. 1:51,2
Nür24h 7:43
Drives like new, i cant feel anything deteriorating.
Did the GT-World Champ. with it when it was new and when it had 1100km on it, no difference.
Nice races but AI to slow, always get them in 2nd lap and the barely fight back.
In the 2nd run i had only a single crash/spin/wall touch in the whole championship.
(Bathurst without touching a single AI car too)
After that i made a backup, made the 500.000 Cr. Rigidity reset and did the last race again (Nür24h)
No difference in handling
(in the championship my 2nd lap was a 7:43 in the single race 7:42)
Did go back to the backup before the reset and did the race again.
No difference in handling
1st lap was a 7:40,9 (missed braking for 1st corner 2nd lap as i was still looking at the time
)So my opinion still is:
There is no such thing as deteriorating body rigidity !
Save your money.
I would like to know some laptimes of the people who can feel a big difference after the repair, i can only imagine that i drive to slow/careful to feel a difference.
The "Like the Wind" races are a walk in the park (only some gearbox and downforce changes)
Top speed on test track 417, race time 4:25
Indy i do 0:42,2 without slipstream
GT-World Champ times:
Bathurst 1:53,5
Laguna 1:16,9
Spa 2:05,8
Silverst. 1:51,2
Nür24h 7:43
Last edited:
- 2,643
- Finland
- OdeFinn
Let say like this, no FFB force twisting wheel during acceleration, 100% straight driving when not touching stick, game assist enabled for skidding, PLUS non user changeable assists what jumps in when using DS3, car handling physics are made simpler for DS3 - to make game more easily enjoyable for DS3 users and novices.
DS3 is "all aids disabled" pretty much same as Wheel with TC5, ASM, SRF on plus ABS1.
So your review is just thread filler without real information for wheel users, just proven how much game helps novice drivers who are using DS3 controllers. Hoping at PD makes option to Online Rooms where you can force drivers to use wheel, or disabling access to race if no wheel used.
DS3 is "all aids disabled" pretty much same as Wheel with TC5, ASM, SRF on plus ABS1.
So your review is just thread filler without real information for wheel users, just proven how much game helps novice drivers who are using DS3 controllers. Hoping at PD makes option to Online Rooms where you can force drivers to use wheel, or disabling access to race if no wheel used.
So everyone who can feel a difference is using wheel ?
Z1-AV69, dixonbaps ?
And not noobs like me that like to play GT on the couch with DS3 and save the wheel for proper racing sims.
Z1-AV69, dixonbaps ?
Maybe one of you should have mentioned that this is only affecting people using wheels in the beginning of the thread ?
And not noobs like me that like to play GT on the couch with DS3 and save the wheel for proper racing sims.
The VGT only costs 1 million to buy. So you're right, the rigidity restore does cost half the purchase price. Which is only $500,000. Not $50,000,000.
- 4,089
- Utah
176 days in my game so far. I've driven the crap out of my Z8, and the rigidity is still good. My other cars are still in good shape too. Maybe it's me, or how I play, but I haven't found this to be problem whatsoever.
I'm still waiting for those. They never appeared.
I'm still waiting for those. They never appeared.
- 2,643
- Finland
- OdeFinn
Pretty neutral MR car, tested few hour ago, all aids of(incl all, all, alllll), online room race, real grip, tyre wear normal, everything much real as can be, using Logitech G27 as wheel and AP Electrix Load
Car was 560pp with 15min of tuning on it, not good tune just to make it run.
Sorry for audio, my cams mic is not picking all low freqs, so good sounding car now sound bit raw
Last edited:
👍
But i have no idea what it does, sometimes it flashes when you go in a straight line, and also i often does nothing when you have a big moment (powerslide).
For me wheel is just different, it is easier to to drive very clean and keep the car at the edge of grip, but if you overcook it and need big opposite lock it is very hard to do that in time.
With the DS3 you just don't have the feel for small correction and often overdrive the car/tire, but it is much easier to make big adjustments.
So it depends on the car and your driving style what is better.
With weaker cars i liked both (have not tried yet with ~600pp race cars, will do today), but GT was alway mor of a "couch game" for me. I usually play several hours a day and with lots of different cars, that is easier with the DS3.
With wheel i need longer to adept to a car and i also get exhausted after 3/4h.
You forgot to switch of gear advice ...
If you drive with DS3 you can sometimes see the "ESP light" flashing even when you have all aids off, so i guess he is right when he says there is some help on in the background.
But i have no idea what it does, sometimes it flashes when you go in a straight line, and also i often does nothing when you have a big moment (powerslide).
For me wheel is just different, it is easier to to drive very clean and keep the car at the edge of grip, but if you overcook it and need big opposite lock it is very hard to do that in time.
With the DS3 you just don't have the feel for small correction and often overdrive the car/tire, but it is much easier to make big adjustments.
So it depends on the car and your driving style what is better.
With weaker cars i liked both (have not tried yet with ~600pp race cars, will do today), but GT was alway mor of a "couch game" for me. I usually play several hours a day and with lots of different cars, that is easier with the DS3.
With wheel i need longer to adept to a car and i also get exhausted after 3/4h.
- 459
- T2
- GregOr1971
I'm curious how many of you that experience heavy detoriation on cars has glitch-ed credits ? Just a speculation, but maybe there is a connection between glitchin and various problems some people experience and some are not.
Personally , I see no big problem for now with "detoriation" > got few cars over 800km an no warning signs about oil,ridgity etc...
Also "r.restore" cost proportional to cost of a car ! For normal cars is ussually 5-50k , so if you got money to buy LMP ,then better use It to make enough money you can afford to run it . I don't see 0,5mil a big deal for racing car ,because you can get that money in about 1 series (5 races) and thats nowhere near 350+miles done .
Personally , I see no big problem for now with "detoriation" > got few cars over 800km an no warning signs about oil,ridgity etc...
Also "r.restore" cost proportional to cost of a car ! For normal cars is ussually 5-50k , so if you got money to buy LMP ,then better use It to make enough money you can afford to run it . I don't see 0,5mil a big deal for racing car ,because you can get that money in about 1 series (5 races) and thats nowhere near 350+miles done .
- 274
- Venice flooded areas
- TurambarMakart
Ahhaha yes and then i heard that all Wheel Users when they turn off their PS3 have got some oil stains on their clothes.... please this sounds like a bit extreme to me, i'm a DS3 user since GT1, never been arsed to spend a lot of euros for a bloody wheel ( not cause i cannot afford it but just cause i think there is a limit to what i can spend for just a mere videogame, i would rather spend that money on my real car ). I guess using a wheel it's more difficult at the start and then when you adapt it's like a dream.... don't bugger poor DS3 users by saying you are not pro enough cause even without AIDS the game is still helping you, cause if this was the truth on Time Trials most of the best times would've been done by Joypad users and if i'm not wrong on the first places usually Wheel users are 10 to 1 compared to DS3 ones.
It has nothing related to the thread issue but i felt like stating this after reading what has been writted about DS3 users, cause it would be pretty lame on Online Rooms restricting the acces cause i haven't got a wheel.... cause on GT5 i've partecipated at some online championships and no one complained about myself being one of the few drivers with a pad.
- 2,643
- Finland
- OdeFinn
Not saying at playing with DS3 is easy, but it's not on same scale as on wheel.
DS3 users have different type of problems on handling car, those problems are not directly from game or car used in game, those are problems caused limited controls of DS3 controller.
In example DS3 players can easily use high amount of negative TOE on front and still touch curbs, same on wheel you have to grab really hard on wheel to avoid steering error from that curb hit on FFB, accelerating on straight with high powered car on low grip tyres with DS3 is easy, just push "pedal" down and throw gears in, same on wheel and your car is writing your name on tarmac because you hardly can keep wheel 100% straight during acceleration. Same when braking, car bends easily to side when going on wheel, and braking on DS3 it just brakes as it was staying on rails.
Turning in corner on high powered car with DS3, it allows you to make slightly quick moves on stick (due reducing wheel turn speed, and helping by tweaking physics), but same maneuver on wheel and you front tires may slip instantly and car understeers(or just go straight), or it takes grip and oversteers heavily.
When losing control on DS3 you can recover it easier, because its not so sensitive and not interrupting your steering with FFB (on wheel you can recover bit wider slips than DS3, but it's not easy, it needs really much speed on hands and precision movements).
DS3 is not for realism, it's just for fun. Physics are "cutted" to suit DS3 playing when its used, more like graphical show without real physics what you handle during wheel playing.
Restricting DS3 from online room makes all to fight on same line, same problems on handling, not this what we now have, DS3 players having different type of steering problems and wheel users different, luckily on easy car/room setups those are fighting combined to close on same line, but different challenges.
Last edited:
)
- 744
- The Moon
- nofxmike06
- NOFXMIKE06
@ OdeFinn: Thanks, I'll check your video later when I can. Loving the 2 Diablo even if I was disappointed by their handling at first, took me some time to not spin out every corner in their stock form but now I've learnt, gentle and precise steering.
@ st155: Good to know, I didn't noticed the esp light.
Everything has been said regarding wheels and controllers, pros and cons for both.
Thank you all for the replies.
@ st155: Good to know, I didn't noticed the esp light.
Everything has been said regarding wheels and controllers, pros and cons for both.
Thank you all for the replies.
- 657
- Texas
- XizangM1
I just posted a new thread in GT6 general discussion to talk about DS3 physics and assists.
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/ds3-vs-wheel-physics-in-gt6.294885/
Please divert discussion there instead.
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/ds3-vs-wheel-physics-in-gt6.294885/
Please divert discussion there instead.
Last edited:
Similar threads
