Buttkicker Options - Experience Needed

  • Thread starter readyfe
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I was going to go with the one I linked above: audiosource amp310 because I have an older audiosource Eq that still works great after 20yrs but after checking out a small sample of reviews they may have some reliability issues, this may be better answered by some others in here that are more knowledgable about electronics, in particular amps than I am. So I chose the Behringer A500 (better price) but it too may have an inherent flaw, saw a YouTube vid...I'll link shortly, but this may not be a factor in powering tactile?

Edit link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RWj5CUl7rio&feature=youtube_gdata_player

No problems with my Behinger A500 here :)

What can you make off a guy who suits up in military gear to review an amp?:confused: LOL
 
I've seen your impressive web site and when I replied I was careful. "Huh ?" means "I don't get it". Next I laid out the issue as I saw it and explained it. It didn't add up to me so I humorously (to me) girded myself for an education.

I got one.

Some amps and/or receivers accept speaker level (low impedance) inputs and that's news to me. If this is not a rare feature on amps and/or receivers (excluding sub amps) then I'm completely behind the times. I don't THINK I am.

My original post you quoted remains bulletproof under dissection. No apologies.(ouch, that sounds rude. I don't in anyway mean it like that the_greeze).:nervous:

Thanks to Dragon_Dude for the "edgumakashun".

Scotty

No problems here Scotty (told you I wouldn't be offended! :)) As you'll see below, I mis-informed readyfe about the actual connection method. :dunce: It's not the best method of connection, true, but it's the only alternative I had and (fortunately for me) it worked out okay. Sorry, didn't mean to be 'short' with you :)

@readyfe: I gave you the wrong connection info in the previous post (sorry!) Here's my connection setup:

Output (from speaker terminals on Yamaha amp) -> Input on FBQ1502 -> Output from FBQ1502 -> Input on A500 -> Output on A500 -> Tactile Unit.

Hope that makes sense 👍
 
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the_greeze
Output (from speaker terminals on Yamaha amp) -> Input on FBQ1502 -> Output from FBQ1502 -> Input on A500 -> Output on A500 -> Tactile Unit.

Hope that makes sense 👍

Did you use a speaker level to line level converter? The reason I ask is because I'm trying to use a 20yr old Sony STR-D1015 which has no pre-amp outputs for the channels but has the first Dolby Pro logic software that I'd like to utilize for my tactile setup in creating 3 zones.
 
Did you use a speaker level to line level converter? The reason I ask is because I'm trying to use a 20yr old Sony STR-D1015 which has no pre-amp outputs for the channels but has the first Dolby Pro logic software that I'd like to utilize for my tactile setup in creating 3 zones.

I use the 'Gain' on the EQ to control the input level. This probably equates to the same function! :)
 
HoiHman
You mean at the back to the EQ ? I haven't touched that yet.

Yes, I don't have a sub-out line on my receiver so that's an added bonus of the Eq. To isolate some low freq. into one of the surround zones I'll be using through the A500 :-)
 
Good info so far..

I received my Buttkicker Wireless Kit and set it up today. Very easy to set up - real no brainer.

As I've said previously I'm running a 5.1ch Pioneer VSX-515-S with 5x Satellite Speakers and a 12" Sub. I've run the splitter from the sub-out from the back of the receiver and well the results so far havent been exciting.

I originally calibrated using the MCACC (auto-calibration) and the surround generally has been excellent, so piggy backing the BK on I'm thinking maybe this is the issue.

With the volume at 40-50 (not loud, but enough to hear everything and not upset the family) there is hardly any vibration and thats with the BK-Amp at it's maximum.

When I set the receiver volume to 30, yes it begins to vibrate but it's just too loud to race without upsetting the neighbours let alone my family (and I'm out in the garage).

I'm thinking of re-calibrating the Pioneer with the BK switched on or if anyone has any advice that would be great - basically I can't play with it that loud to feel the effects, so really it's wasted in its current config...
 
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Use the multi-AV jack on the PS3 as the source for the tactile signal. This gives you the ability to amplify the tactile totally separately from the audio feed driving your stereo.
 
Good info so far..

I received my Buttkicker Wireless Kit and set it up today. Very easy to set up - real no brainer.

As I've said previously I'm running a 5.1ch Pioneer VSX-515-S with 5x Satellite Speakers and a 12" Sub. I've run the splitter from the sub-out from the back of the receiver and well the results so far havent been exciting.

I originally calibrated using the MCACC (auto-calibration) and the surround generally has been excellent, so piggy backing the BK on I'm thinking maybe this is the issue.

With the volume at 40-50 (not loud, but enough to hear everything and not upset the family) there is hardly any vibration and thats with the BK-Amp at it's maximum.

When I set the receiver volume to 30, yes it begins to vibrate but it's just too loud to race without upsetting the neighbours let alone my family (and I'm out in the garage).

I'm thinking of re-calibrating the Pioneer with the BK switched on or if anyone has any advice that would be great - basically I can't play with it that loud to feel the effects, so really it's wasted in its current config...

Check that your LFE is set to max, (+10) what surround mode you using as you never said?
 
this may be a laughable question but, i noticed on the plate style sub amps the speaker wires are approx 12 inches long, whats the correct way to extend them since my amps will be about 10 feet from my rig. thanks.
 
Use the multi-AV jack on the PS3 as the source for the tactile signal. This gives you the ability to amplify the tactile totally separately from the audio feed driving your stereo.

I will leave this as a last resort.. hopefully I can get it sorted running off the sub-woofer line out.
I'm pretty sure if I go down this path I will need a Behringer EQ to control the signal to the BK.

Check that your LFE is set to max, (+10) what surround mode you using as you never said?

My Pionner was calibrated with the MCACC and so it only settins are basically AUTO on everything and DTS is lit up in game. I will look up in the manual how to set the LFE volume to max but have pretty much read it front to back and didnt see this. Will look at it again now.


Oh yeah - Thank you..!
 
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I just found this.. Will try tonight.

LFE Attenuator Setup

• Default setting: ATT 0 dB
Some Dolby Digital and DTS audio sources include ultra-low bass tones. Set the LFE attenuator as necessary to prevent the ultralow bass tones from distorting the sound from the speakers.

1 Select LFE ATT from the OTHER setup menu.
2 Use (cursor up/down) to choose the setting that you want.
• LFEAT 0 – No limiting (recommended setting)
• LFEAT 10 – 10dB of limiting
• LFEAT ** – No sound from LFE channel
3 When you're finished, press RETURN.
 
I also have a Pioneer 7.1 AV amplifier and I was never able to get the quality of LFE separated ou to make the tactile work properly. The LFE signal from the Multi-AV output is strong and provides a great tactile signal. I use an equalizer to shape the output further but it works fine with just the amplifier as I used it that way before I got the equalizer.
 
I also have a Pioneer 7.1 AV amplifier and I was never able to get the quality of LFE separated ou to make the tactile work properly. The LFE signal from the Multi-AV output is strong and provides a great tactile signal. I use an equalizer to shape the output further but it works fine with just the amplifier as I used it that way before I got the equalizer.

So on the F1 ingame settings you still set the audio to Surround ? As I like to have the 5.1 working on all speakers or with multi-av I lose this ?

I will first try the LFE ATT 10db setting on the VSX tonight as it's already cabled and neatly in my rack - if it's not performing I will try it out of the multi-av PS3.

I can pick up a Behringer FBQ1502 locally and no too expensive so that will be the final step if the LFE signal is not sufficient.
 
So on the F1 ingame settings you still set the audio to Surround ? As I like to have the 5.1 working on all speakers or with multi-av I lose this ?

I will first try the LFE ATT 10db setting on the VSX tonight as it's already cabled and neatly in my rack - if it's not performing I will try it out of the multi-av PS3.

I can pick up a Behringer FBQ1502 locally and no too expensive so that will be the final step if the LFE signal is not sufficient.

You select Multi AV output on the PS3 audio setup section. You are then limited to 5.1 output in the GT5 audio control section and select it. I feed the audio and video to the Yamaha amp via an HDMI cable and feed the LFE signal to the tactile amp via the multi AV cable. I run a stereo tactile setup so I simply keep the left and right channels separate.
 
You select Multi AV output on the PS3 audio setup section. You are then limited to 5.1 output in the GT5 audio control section and select it. I feed the audio and video to the Yamaha amp via an HDMI cable and feed the LFE signal to the tactile amp via the multi AV cable. I run a stereo tactile setup so I simply keep the left and right channels separate.

Tried the ATT 10 Setting and no noticeable change.

Connected via the Multi-AV and it's shaking like crazy..

Very annoying with music but finding the right balance in game - what a difference. I do think I will need an EQ now to filter out the unnecessary noise.

Thanks for all the advice so far..!
 
Tried the ATT 10 Setting and no noticeable change.

Connected via the Multi-AV and it's shaking like crazy..

Very annoying with music but finding the right balance in game - what a difference. I do think I will need an EQ now to filter out the unnecessary noise.

Thanks for all the advice so far..!

All you need to do now is connect the L/R channels from the Multi AV together. This will give you tactile feedback on both the left AND the right channel instead off only left or right :)
 
All you need to do now is connect the L/R channels from the Multi AV together. This will give you tactile feedback on both the left AND the right channel instead off only left or right :)

Yes that's how I've got it. Red & White Multi AV into the Wireless Transmitter which has Red & White inputs too..
 
All you need to do now is connect the L/R channels from the Multi AV together. This will give you tactile feedback on both the left AND the right channel instead off only left or right :)


Readyfe

Using multi Av out is "Stereo" not LFE tactile, that's one reason it's excessive with music. Of course everyone has their preferences but when I run over a left kerb, I want my left side only to shake, matching the audio and not both sides at once. The only way to get this is by not combining the stereo channels but having individual L/R tactile for each. Adding a LFE tactile will then still produce the low end tactile rumble through the centre of the whole seat enhancing the directional tactile effects.

With no limiting on the LFE and if using satellite speakers, ensure you configure your amplifier to SMALL speakers. This should send bass via the LFE/Sub out then set the Crossover on the Pioneer to about 100hz for starters. The auto calibration isn't really suitable or tactile. Manual settings will possibly be best to get a balance between the speakers and tactile. You could consider lowering the individual speaker/channel volumes to -5 to -10. This would help tailor your LFE and Speaker master volume.
 
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Readyfe

Using multi Av out is "Stereo" not LFE tactile, that's one reason it's excessive with music. Of course everyone has their preferences but when I run over a left kerb, I want my left side only to shake, matching the audio and not both sides at once. The only way to get this is by not combining the stereo channels but having individual L/R tactile for each. Adding a LFE tactile will then still produce the low end tactile rumble through the centre of the whole seat enhancing the directional tactile effects.

With no limiting on the LFE and if using satellite speakers, ensure you configure your amplifier to SMALL speakers. This should send bass via the LFE/Sub out then set the Crossover on the Pioneer to about 100hz for starters. The auto calibration isn't really suitable or tactile. Manual settings will possibly be best to get a balance between the speakers and tactile. You could consider lowering the individual speaker/channel volumes to -5 to -10. This would help tailor your LFE and Speaker master volume.

Yeah mate, understand it totally. I preferred the feeling of the LFE signal but there was no strength in it - could hardly be felt. I had my hand on the BK and could feel the detail of the shifts and ripples but now it's rumbling on anything that makes noise - this i guess is where the EQ comes into it.

From the Multi-AV there's much more strength in the signal. So actually could feel everything but the EQ is needed here.

I will give the settings on the VSX another shot in manual set up and hopefully the signal is stronger to the BK-Amp.

Cheers, Fred
 
Try the PS3 to DOLBY and use Dolby 5.1 on the Pioneer or if you have it PRO LOGIC II as it has good LFE output. Also remove any Multi AV calendar incase it is effecting the digital output?

Keep us posted.
 
Try the PS3 to DOLBY and use Dolby 5.1 on the Pioneer or if you have it PRO LOGIC II as it has good LFE output. Also remove any Multi AV calendar incase it is effecting the digital output?

Keep us posted.

Wil do.. My receiver has ProLogic II and DTS - should I turn off DTS ?

What's a Multi AV calendar ?

Also, here's a link to the 'man cave in progress...'
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_xI_GRh85fI

 
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Lol the calendar, mmm iPad correction their.

Connector was the word, hee hee.
If you have been using DTS then lets try alternatives.
 
readyfe
Tried the ATT 10 Setting and no noticeable change.

Connected via the Multi-AV and it's shaking like crazy..

Very annoying with music but finding the right balance in game - what a difference. I do think I will need an EQ now to filter out the unnecessary noise.

Thanks for all the advice so far..!

Yeah its too bad you cant get the LFE sub out to work from your receiver because that is by far the best filter, and about the music... I get that too and its super annoying, so i always turn off all the music, but sometimes you cant turn off all the extra cinemagraphic effects which annoy me and make the buttkicker bottom out. wish they would take those out-like the extreme low frequency thunder sound they place in F1 2011 for dramatic effect when showing the cars on grid before a race. I end up having to turn the amp off after a race and back on whenever i am on track, annoying.
 
Shift 2 was pretty annoying with tactical in the menus. The menu sound effect are about twice the volume of the on track sound effects. If I would forget to turn it off itd sound like a war was going on in my mancave.
 
Yeah, come menus in Shift 2 I felt like I was inside a Tornado... :)

Options:
Miniature programmable remote on cockpit to mute or lower volume.
Remote operated switch (audio sender) box for LFE output control only (turn on/off).
iPad/iPhone or similar app/device to act as remote for Buttkicker amp or alternative reciever.
 
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Yeah, come menus in Shift 2 I felt like I was inside a Tornado... :)

Options:
Miniature programmable remote on cockpit to mute or lower volume.
Remote operated switch (audio sender) box for LFE output control only (turn on/off).
iPad/iPhone or similar app/device to act as remote for Buttkicker amp or alternative reciever.

I know what you mean LOL. :)

All codemasters games have the same issue. I used to enjoy those 'cool' sound effects they use. Since i have tactile, i've started hating them.

I do a lot of my racing very early in the morning, when everybody is still sleeping.
That's i why designed my rig so that the tactile volume controle is close at hand.
 
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