My two laps, aids set to off but It was choosen "all", don't know if it makes a difference with systems below set to off. With DS4.
EDIT:Switched to real, there was a bit more oversteer and car was a bit harder to control. I got similar time though.
What does SMS need to do to fix the small corrections in your line from being stabbing or jerking?
i used your 1.90 tyre pressures for a race round Brands GP and although the handling was fine, i found one tyre was getting cold, so i reverted to my 1.60 fronts/1.40 rears and got an extra second per lap out of them. i'm thinking this is probably because of the other tuning i've done to my Clio which doesn't seem to fit the higher pressures as well.Here's how I run... (albeit with CSWv2 on PC)
- Tyre Pressure 1.9 bar all-around (info directly from Dunlop tyre guy at the track)
- Brake Bias 50/50
Drives are fun for me, and exactly how I saw them behave at the track. Yes, they do have a light rear-end which means that they are basically two wheeling on the front wheels.
Will have a go at Donny to see how she flies. Was a blast at Nords for me at least. Which is a more tricky track than Donny. Will post a time in this post when I did.
Driving the Clio is all about balancing the car with throttle and brake inputs. Don't full throttle it through a corner, but also try not to go through a corner without throttle. Just keep a slightly bit of power applied so it doesn't start to brake on the engine, which can cause a lift-off oversteer reaction.
It's all in keeping momentum through the corners with a FWD car, which also means that the lines through the corner differ from RWD. Often the entry is a slightly bit further in than with a RWD from my experience.
i used your 1.90 tyre pressures for a race round Brands GP and although the handling was fine, i found one tyre was getting cold, so i reverted to my 1.60 fronts/1.40 rears and got an extra second per lap out of them. i'm thinking this is probably because of the other tuning i've done to my Clio which doesn't seem to fit the higher pressures as well.
tweaks upon tweaks.... great fun though!
hahaha where do you even get this stuff? as if I didn't have enough to read in the game itself...Sounds like you might be cocking a wheel. Which is normal with the Clio. You could try to fiddle with the anti-roll bars in this case.
Also lower tyre pressures do give more grip and faster laptimes, but it also causes extra wear. It's a balancing act.
This might be useful...
Renault Clio Cup manual: http://www.cliocup.cz/sites/default/files/data/user_manual.pdf
hahaha where do you even get this stuff? as if I didn't have enough to read in the game itself...
What does SMS need to do to fix the small corrections in your line from being stabbing or jerking?
What's the cure to make this car stop getting so loose and unrecoverable?
i'm using the DS4 in Mode 2 or 3 with default settings, I'd rather not blame the controller for the over steering. I've done about 50 laps on the track between Free Run and Career, and I can't do a single clean lap! The main problem area is the left dogleg running downhill to a sharp right. Then the following set going uphill with a slight left to the sharp right.
I need to go to sleep, my wife is going to kill me in about 20 minutes!
If only one suspension parameter is off why don't you just share it with us and we can all use it if desired?PM me if you want the real car setup ( caster, spring rate, tire pressure, LSD specs- preload, ramp angle/lock ratio, sway bars, camber and toe, damper for dry /wet - will need to adapt as the real one has adjustments in clicks ) The stock clio setup in pcars is not really accurate ( one of the suspension parameter uses previous gen clio cup ), it should be at least interesting to try the base setup provided by Renault Sport. I might also be able to help with Lancer FQ400
If only one suspension parameter is off why don't you just share it with us and we can all use it if desired?
I for one would welcome a real-life replica tuning section in here. 👍
I think the people with positive vibe outweigh the negative ones. Surely, no one can object having real-life settings in what's supposed to be a real-life sim? I've never let negatives stop me when I still had my GT5P tuning shop, I posted for the people that liked it, not for the ones that didn't. 👍I won't post it in threads as I have been getting negative vibe from Pcars fans here as I have GT6 background and doing replicas I will only share through PM to those who genuinely wanted to try real life setup which is a lot different than pcars stock setup ( not just suspension )
I think the people with positive vibe outweigh the negative ones. Surely, no one can object having real-life settings in what's supposed to be a real-life sim? I've never let negatives stop me when I still had my GT5P tuning shop, I posted for the people that liked it, not for the ones that didn't. 👍
Not having PCars makes it difficult for you to validate your settings though.
That said, I could start by dialing in those FQ400 settings you shared earlier, and I'd be happy to post them in the tuning section after testing. 👍
I have one member already sent a PM and will start to write them up...
That would be me
Just done some basics around Brans and what I have so far is a little more understeer but far more controllable liftoff oversteer. I need to get a little more grip front end so I can really turn in under acceleration without drifting out wide too much.
@Ridox2JZGTE I've sent you a PM with my settings as they are at the moment.
If only one suspension parameter is off why don't you just share it with us and we can all use it if desired?
Could some of you post up some lap times of Brans Hatch GP so I can see if I'm pushing enough. I know I'm not as fast as some of you but if i know how fast or slow I am I'll know if I'm getting the best out of the tune and the car.
I'm currently putting in low 1.41s but I know I can make some more time in parts. I just need to have more guts and better lines.
BTW that's with driving aids set to real and using auto gears (I don't have a shifter or clutch - guess I could use auto clutch and the paddles) also all other driving aids off etc.
Cheers.
Edit- this is a video I've been using for instruction of the course.
Good advice. Sometimes the transmission is the easiest and quickest way to balance the car in corners. Timing your gear changes on the fly can help encourage over or understeer and help stabilize the car in sometimes unstable corners.Yes you should set it to auto clutch and use the paddles. Auto trans is almost always slower than a manual simply due to the fact that you do not have control over when shifts are made. Sometimes you may have a need to shift early or late even ride all the way up to the rev limiter rather than up shifting as you enter a corner. Sometimes you can even pick up time in a corner by shifting at just the right spot as that can pull your car in a little and allow you to attain higher exit speed where if it shifted auto in may force you to lift in order to stay on the track
I'm 6th with a 1:16.139We could have a little time trial challenge with the Clio at Donington Park National. I'm at 1:18.136 so far (Time Trial, so no tuning), with plenty to improve. Only aid I use is ABS.