Cobra Coupe Shootout - Lex wins 24 Hours of Spa - Pimiki Crowned Triple Champ !!!Finished 

Now if the race is set to 50 minutes, I'll be able to listen to that song 10 times whilst driving!

Let's hope it doesn't leave anyone Crying In The Rain.

It's a good job there's no open topped cars in this series. Although I might have to put some sealing tape around the Cobra's windows, they look as if they might leak. :P
 
Sorry to say that I probobly want make it this sunday, I might be there watching a little, but don't think i'll have the time to race. I really should get a job so my wife didn't have to work on sundays, which she usually doesn't, but this stupid sunday she is! Just kidding, actually I don't want a job!:crazy: But I'm not kidding about my absence, I really can't race, If and or something changes, then I'll race! :D But probobly not! :boggled:
 
Dear @Sick Cylinder!
1. Daytona round 3: inter and wet tyres are useable?
0% wet track + RH tyres: 1:06.xxx
100% wet track + RH tyres = 2:20.xxx
100% wet track + wet tyres = 1:20.xxx

2. Avon Tour round 5: Monza '80 or Madrid?
I would prefer Monta '80
Thank you
 
LexLathor
Dear @Sick Cylinder!
1. Daytona round 3: inter and wet tyres are useable?
0% wet track + RH tyres: 1:06.xxx
100% wet track + RH tyres = 2:20.xxx
100% wet track + wet tyres = 1:20.xxx

2. Avon Tour round 5: Monza '80 or Madrid?
I would prefer Monta '80
Thank you
Click to expand...


Important Information for al Sunday Racers

Hi Lex and all Drivers

Full settings for the 50 Minute Cobra Coupe Endurance Race on Sunday are as follows:

Weather at Race Start 60%
Weather Changeability 60 (this gives rapid changes e.g. rain showers)
Surface water at start 60%
Time 12:00 (on track at start of the race)
Time Progression 7 (gives a simulated 6 hour race in 50 minutes)
2 Pit Stops

Buy intermediate, heavy wet and race hard tyres - the game will only let you change onto tyres that you own.

I recommend that you start qualifying on intermediate tyres and do an early pit stop in the race if these are not the best tyres for the weather conditions. Note, if you change tyres during qualifying the game puts you back on your original tyres for the start of the race.

I have done a lot of testing of these setting and they generally produce an almost dry race, but with brief rain showers, which look great on the windscreen in cockpit view. Intermediate or Race Hard tyres will probably be best for the race, but there is a random element to the games weather generator. I found that higher percentages than 60% seem to produce 100% wet races in which I think many drivers would spend more time off the track than on it, which does not lead to close racing. Hopefully these settings will produce close racing and add something to the atmosphere.

NB Silverstone International is the layout used at the time of the Cobra Coupe's (the current GP layout wasn't built unti recently) and brief showers at Silverstone at this time of year are quite authentic.

For the other Endurance Rounds - Round 7 from Red Bull ring will be dry and will be another 6 hour simulation. For Round 10 Spa will be a 24 hour simulation with dry weather so that you get to see the excellent night sky effect by PD.
 
Sick Cylinder
Important Information for al Sunday Racers

Hi Lex and all Drivers

Full settings for the 50 Minute Cobra Coupe Endurance Race on Sunday are as follows:

Weather at Race Start 60%
Weather Changeability 60 (this gives rapid changes e.g. rain showers)
Surface water at start 60%
Time 12:00 (on track at start of the race)
Time Progression 7 (gives a simulated 6 hour race in 50 minutes)
2 Pit Stops

Buy intermediate, heavy wet and race hard tyres - the game will only let you change onto tyres that you own.

I recommend that you start qualifying on intermediate tyres and do an early pit stop in the race if these are not the best tyres for the weather conditions. Note, if you change tyres during qualifying the game puts you back on your original tyres for the start of the race.

I have done a lot of testing of these setting and they generally produce an almost dry race, but with brief rain showers, which look great on the windscreen in cockpit view. Intermediate or Race Hard tyres will probably be best for the race, but there is a random element to the games weather generator. I found that higher percentages than 60% seem to produce 100% wet races in which I think many drivers would spend more time off the track than on it, which does not lead to close racing. Hopefully these settings will produce close racing and add something to the atmosphere.

NB Silverstone International is the layout used at the time of the Cobra Coupe's (the current GP layout wasn't built unti recently) and brief showers at Silverstone at this time of year are quite authentic.

For the other Endurance Rounds - Round 7 from Red Bull ring will be dry and will be another 6 hour simulation. For Round 10 Spa will be a 24 hour simulation with dry weather so that you get to see the excellent night sky effect by PD.
Click to expand...

I just did a 50 minute test session and the race is going to be awesome :D

However, I'm concerned about the rate of the weather change. I was driving on a completely dry track and when I reached the chicane near the end of the lap it started to rain and by the time I reached the first corner on the next lap the track was 100% wet. If that happens while you're in slicks you can easily be lapped by a car on wet tyres before you get a chance to change tyres.

There's always a chance element in racing, but perhaps it's too big here? You could lose the race simply by being on the wrong part of the track when it starts to rain and the only way to avoid that would be to guess when the rain is going to come and go to the pits right before that.

Also, with the weather change set to 60 the track gets completely dry almost instantly after the rain has stopped so there's not much use for intermediates.

Perhaps we could reduce the weather change a little, to about 20 or 10 or something like that? That will give you some time to go into the pits before the track is completely flooded, and the track will also stay wet for a longer period of time after the rain has ended.

One more thing, here's a driving tip that I learned during my test session: When it's 100% wet on the track, don't coast around corners in 1st gear since the engine braking is more than enough to make the rear tyres skid. Use a higher gear (2nd is usually enough) or give a little bit of throttle while you go around the corner :)
 
eran0004
I just did a 50 minute test session and the race is going to be awesome :D

However, I'm concerned about the rate of the weather change. I was driving on a completely dry track and when I reached the chicane near the end of the lap it started to rain and by the time I reached the first corner on the next lap the track was 100% wet. If that happens while you're in slicks you can easily be lapped by a car on wet tyres before you get a chance to change tyres.

There's always a chance element in racing, but perhaps it's too big here? You could lose the race simply by being on the wrong part of the track when it starts to rain and the only way to avoid that would be to guess when the rain is going to come and go to the pits right before that.

Also, with the weather change set to 60 the track gets completely dry almost instantly after the rain has stopped so there's not much use for intermediates.

Perhaps we could reduce the weather change a little, to about 20 or 10 or something like that? That will give you some time to go into the pits before the track is completely flooded, and the track will also stay wet for a longer period of time after the rain has ended.

One more thing, here's a driving tip that I learned during my test session: When it's 100% wet on the track, don't coast around corners in 1st gear since the engine braking is more than enough to make the rear tyres skid. Use a higher gear (2nd is usually enough) or give a little bit of throttle while you go around the corner :)
Click to expand...


Thanks for feedback on rate of change Eran. When I tested these settings it stopped raining and started to dry long before reaching 100% and I was able to do the whole race on Race hard tyres. The second test I used Intermediate tyres and it rained more, but not enough for heavy wets. I'm suggesting that people start on intermediates (although you can use sports softs) - if it does rain hard the rapid change should make the track dry very quickly so you can baby the car round for a lap until it dries. Their seems to be a large element of chance / randomness built into the weather effects. I am trying to avoid it getting too wet as in my experience that tends to spoil the racing, by increasing spins and reducing the closeness of the cars.

I will do some more testing this afternoon and report back.
 
Without having experimented myself, I would assume that the speed and duration of the weather changes is also influenced by the time progression factor used. The faster the time the more rapid the weather effects (maybe).


@gkgamer - I remember @JockeP22 liking your "magic" weather that you used during one of your races. What are the secret settings you use? :)
 
Sick Cylinder
Thanks for feedback on rate of change Eran. When I tested these settings it stopped raining and started to dry long before reaching 100% and I was able to do the whole race on Race hard tyres. The second test I used Intermediate tyres and it rained more, but not enough for heavy wets. I'm suggesting that people start on intermediates (although you can use sports softs) - if it does rain hard the rapid change should make the track dry very quickly so you can baby the car round for a lap until it dries. Their seems to be a large element of chance / randomness built into the weather effects. I am trying to avoid it getting too wet as in my experience that tends to spoil the racing, by increasing spins and reducing the closeness of the cars.

I will do some more testing this afternoon and report back.
Click to expand...

For most of the time it was just light showers coming and going for me and no water on the track at all. But then after about 20 minutes the sky just came down on top of my head and drowned the track in no time at all.
 
I did a full race duration test with those settings. With St Bridge / Mallet and johnwells. I lost by nearly two laps to Mallet because of bad tyre choices: inter, race hard, heavy wet to his inter, inter, race hard combination. I think if people stick with intermediates they should be ok. So we'll stick with those settings for this Sunday and try different settings in the future. Points will not be doubled for the endurance rounds and I'll add an extra pit stop, so 3 stops which will give a lot of pit strategy options.
 
Sick Cylinder
I did a full race duration test with those settings. With St Bridge / Mallet and johnwells. I lost by nearly two laps to Mallet because of bad tyre choices: inter, race hard, heavy wet to his inter, inter, race hard combination. I think if people stick with intermediates they should be ok. So we'll stick with those settings for this Sunday and try different settings in the future. Points will not be doubled for the endurance rounds and I'll add an extra pit stop, so 3 stops which will give a lot of pit strategy options.
Click to expand...
I've bought the Pozzi Camaro as instructed, it looks like the power needs reducing dramatically to reach 290BHP?
Should I apply any particular paint to either car, or change the wheels at all?
 
S_Bridge
I've bought the Pozzi Camaro as instructed, it looks like the power needs reducing dramatically to reach 290BHP?
Should I apply any particular paint to either car, or change the wheels at all?
Click to expand...

Paint - any colour, but not matte, chrome or polarised. Wheels - any age appropriate (I use the ones like rostyles). Race number type a, font a. Your cobra coupe should be painted tartan red - get this by buying a Marcos mini Marcos.
 
Sick Cylinder
Paint - any colour, but not matte, chrome or polarised. Wheels - any age appropriate (I use the ones like rostyles). Race number type a, font a. Your cobra coupe should be painted tartan red - get this by buying a Marcos mini Marcos.
Click to expand...
No problem. Hopefully number 37 isn't taken. If it's available that's what I'll use.
 
Here is a graph showing the wheel torque for the Cobra in different gears, and the ideal rpm for shifting up and down. It's not 100% accurate, it's based on a 4-point sample from the torque curve that I measured with a ruler directly on the screen, so I guess it may be off by about 100 rpm or so.

Anyway, it seems like 7600 rpm is the ideal engine speed for shifting up, and shifting down should be done from 5800 to 5500 rpm, depending on which gear you're in.

cobra_shift.jpg
 
IfAndOr
Without having experimented myself, I would assume that the speed and duration of the weather changes is also influenced by the time progression factor used. The faster the time the more rapid the weather effects (maybe).


@gkgamer - I remember @JockeP22 liking your "magic" weather that you used during one of your races. What are the secret settings you use? :)
Click to expand...
Oh yes, gk is the weather system master in GT6, for sure.

I haven't seen anyone else able to conjure up the kind of weather he can.

Once at Nordschleife gk had the track weather set perfectly realistic.
The clouds were greyish and the sun was nowhere to be seen.
Parts of the track was dry, a few kilometres later it was drizzling locally and
one or two corners after that it stopped again and there was a drying track.

It went like that all the time, drying up, drizzling, stopping, drizzling again..


I think gk posted his formula in Aaroh's Beetle Club but I'm not sure.
It's a more valuable knowledge than the secret Coca Cola recipe. :bowdown:
 
I did some more testing of the weather effects and have now done race simulations at 10, 20, 30 and several at 60 for weather changeability. There wasn't enough weather at 10, but that was the only setting at which the track stayed wet for long enough to use heavy wet tyres. The heavy wet tyres are slow on a dry track, wear quickly and become very slow when worn. My recommendation is don't bother to put wet tyres on - if you are on race hards and pit because it is raining switch to intermediates - if it is too wet for them it will soon dry and they will last well on a dry track.

Bizarrely the intermediate tyres appear to get faster as they wear out! This is not an effect resulting from a drying track as I tested them several times on a totally dry track. There is very little difference in speed between race hards and intermediates, but race hards are terrible to drive on if the track becomes at all wet. The safest option therefore seems to be to use intermediate tyres for qualifying and the start of the race.

I have decided to set the changeability to 30 as following up on Eran's point, the rate of change of the weather is too fast at 60 - normally too fast for the track to actually become wet.

There is a high level of randomness with the weather effects and much testing is obviously required to obtain particular effects. I did a lot of searching and even found a formula for creating snowfall at Autumn Ring!

I looked for GK's recipe in the Beetle Club thread, but didn't find it - perhaps he would be kind enough to post it on this thread.

Regarding the time progression 50 minutes at 7 should be equivalent to 6 hours, but for some reason the game makes it 7 hours so I will try the time progression at 6.

Sorry for so much chopping and changing, but these effects and endurance racing are new to me. In summary the settings for the Cobra Coupe race on Sunday will be:

Time progression 6. Weather changeability 30. Weather at race start 60%. Surface water at start 60%. Time at race start 12:00. Pit stops 3.
 
LexLathor
Pit stops 3 ????????
Recommended or compulsory?
Click to expand...

Compulsory - I know it's a lot, but it will enable people to make a mistake with a tyre and pit again soon after to change tyres without being penalised. The race will be slightly more than 40 laps so if you wanted even stops you could do them on laps 10, 20 and 30.

My strategy will be to do qualifying and the start on intermediates and if it is dry (0%) consider switching to Race Hards as soon as possible based on how dark the sky is - keep those tyres on as long as possible, then use intermediates for the last two short stints.

I didn't suffer from the pit bug once during a lot of test stops, but I didn't touch the fuel level - I believe that as soon as you change the fuel level recommended by the game you run the risk of the pit bug (being trapped in the pits).
 
Sick Cylinder
Compulsory - I know it's a lot, but it will enable people to make a mistake with a tyre and pit again soon after to change tyres without being penalised. The race will be slightly more than 40 laps so if you wanted even stops you could do them on laps 10, 20 and 30.

My strategy will be to do qualifying and the start on intermediates and if it is dry (0%) consider switching to Race Hards as soon as possible based on how dark the sky is - keep those tyres on as long as possible, then use intermediates for the last two short stints.

I didn't suffer from the pit bug once during a lot of test stops, but I didn't touch the fuel level - I believe that as soon as you change the fuel level recommended by the game you run the risk of the pit bug (being trapped in the pits).
Click to expand...

Just keep in mind that 0% indicates the water in the dry track, i.e. the racing line. There may still be plenty of water on other parts of the track.

I'll probably go for intermediates until it's bone dry, I'm about a second slower per lap compared to RH tyres, but on the other hand you can easily lose 5 seconds on a spin so I don't think it's worth it to gamble.
 
I've put 200 miles on the Pozzi Camaro, experimenting with settings. I have a room open now in the club section. I have no idea what constitutes a good lap time but so far I've only found one element that noticeably improved my times.
The feel of the car has changed in various ways while the lap times haven't.
I don't know if you guys share tunes in this thread, I haven't spotted anything in the 1st couple or last couple of pages. If you do, I'm more than willing to share my findings. I'm not a good tuner though.
 
S_Bridge
I've put 200 miles on the Pozzi Camaro, experimenting with settings. I have a room open now in the club section. I have no idea what constitutes a good lap time but so far I've only found one element that noticeably improved my times.
The feel of the car has changed in various ways while the lap times haven't.
I don't know if you guys share tunes in this thread, I haven't spotted anything in the 1st couple or last couple of pages. If you do, I'm more than willing to share my findings. I'm not a good tuner though.
Click to expand...
Lots of tunes have been shared before, so feel free to share yours. Doesn't really hurt anyone!
 
rehdogg15
Lots of tunes have been shared before, so feel free to share yours. Doesn't really hurt anyone!
Click to expand...
All I've found so far is that transmission settings have made no difference to my lap time or the speed that I reach on the back straight (Hangar?). I use automatic though. Currently I have it not reaching the red line in 5th & 6th remains unused. I'm hitting 128-129mph.
Various suspension changes have changed the way the car handles but not affected my times.
My time dropped from 1.15.0xx to 1:14.3xx when I set all the camber to zero.
I've lost track of everything I've done & not made a note of what I've stolen from other tunes.
The full tune isn't worth sharing yet but I'll stick at it for a little while.
Off to play with the diff now.
 
S_Bridge
All I've found so far is that transmission settings have made no difference to my lap time or the speed that I reach on the back straight (Hangar?). I use automatic though. Currently I have it not reaching the red line in 5th & 6th remains unused. I'm hitting 128-129mph.
Various suspension changes have changed the way the car handles but not affected my times.
My time dropped from 1.15.0xx to 1:14.3xx when I set all the camber to zero.
I've lost track of everything I've done & not made a note of what I've stolen from other tunes.
The full tune isn't worth sharing yet but I'll stick at it for a little while.
Off to play with the diff now.
Click to expand...
Oh I meant in previous series. Not many tunes around this time, but some people will probably post them from time to time. I'm no good at tuning so I can't help much.
 
Sorry but I have an intermittent broadband problem, so going to have too miss the races:(

Being trying to get in forum for ages, engineer coming on Tuesday:(:(:(
 
S_Bridge
I'm not a good tuner though.
Click to expand...
That's a couple of stages better than me then. :)

I haven't raced the Camaro yet, but I found it quite good on it's standard race soft suspension. I couldn't find much that was better.
I would think that due to it's flattened power (limited) curve it would be the car to benefit from using manual gears though. The torque is dropping way down by the time you hit the red line. Shame you've got that car to start with.

There's a few setups discussed from this post down, but not much for the Camaro!
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...e-slots-available.313121/page-3#post-10623946
 
IfAndOr
That's a couple of stages better than me then. :)

I haven't raced the Camaro yet, but I found it quite good on it's standard race soft suspension. I couldn't find much that was better.
I would think that due to it's flattened power (limited) curve it would be the car to benefit from using manual gears though. The torque is dropping way down by the time you hit the red line. Shame you've got that car to start with.

There's a few setups discussed from this post down, but not much for the Camaro!
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...e-slots-available.313121/page-3#post-10623946
Click to expand...
I managed to get slower by over a second without really making any more changes so it must be time for a break.
I'm just going to aim not to hit anyone & settle for that as a good result.
 

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