CSL update - blue mode

[domasijus]

It’s really nice when you get the settings right for a car/track combo.

Yep, in deed Im pretty new to Fanatec stuff, dont know plenty of tuning setup meanings and it offers so many options, variations so its not easy at all. Looking forward to improove more and more

 

[Mirror_man]

thanks for the info. anyway still looking forward for updated settings
but what about settings on page 9 posted by you 27 September 2018 ?
EDIT: with those September settings immediatly shaved 2 tenths of race C Mount Panorama. Now my time is 2:01.457 (B/S driver) and there is plenty of room to improve more. Wheel is light and inputs more precise than my heavy default settings before. Thanks. Worth to try your May settings? Couse its quite old from now. And Im curious of your updated settings

!!! I did nt remember those.... lol... sorry... yep those are slighly better than those of page 5....

Actually I have just put some more For ... not much... and changed something else here or there.. I ll give the values next monday... as during the week-end I m 500km away from my PS4 and Fanatec wheel...

 

[domasijus]

!!! I did nt remember those.... lol... sorry... yep those are slighly better than those of page 5....

Actually I have just put some more For ... not much... and changed something else here or there.. I ll give the values next monday... as during the week-end I m 500km away from my PS4 and Fanatec wheel...

All right, thanks, I really appreciate your help and be safe

 

[Mirror_man]

Well.. I could nt do it on Monday... But here it is!!!

Tested this yesterday night with Audi TT GT4 on Dragon Trail and with Austin Martin Vantage Gt3 on Red Bull Driving Experience... And fine tuned it then...

Here are my new recomended setting for this wheel for this game... (table with full data and comparision with ptevious recomended values - Sep2018)

I hope you feel good with these.. as I´m feeling now!

Please enjoy!


Adittionaly I must add that these settings are used with last official Driver from Fanatec (not Beta) and as it seems that last Beta 326 is really better, and changing something... I´ll have to try it later... and probably will change settings too...

 

[Mirror_man]

Well.. I could nt do it on Monday... But here it is!!!

Tested this yesterday night with Audi TT GT4 on Dragon Trail and with Austin Martin Vantage Gt3 on Red Bull Driving Experience... And fine tuned it then...

Here are my new recomended setting for this wheel for this game... (table with full data and comparision with ptevious recomended values - Sep2018)

View attachment 796463

I hope you feel good with these.. as I´m feeling now!

Please enjoy!

Sorry.. as the Table had some minor errors (spelling) here is the corrected one:

 

[oldphart]

Thanks MM
Seems I wasn't off from your new settings.

 

[domasijus]

Thank you Mirror_man! Tried a few laps because lack of time on Nurburgring GP with Audi R8 LMS and it felt really good. BTW Im using last beta drivers. Comparing to older settings wheel gives sharper feedback with some easy vibrations which probably needs to get use to. Gonna try it later on my day off! Thanks again, you are doing good job!

 

[Fosterions]

Thanks @Mirror_man, I've done some brief testing and the feel is interesting. Beyond the preference where you like a lighter feel and I prefer heavier, though I could probably dial that back to my benefit, I would say these are "good" adjustments, but I am not at all faster. I'm currently slow and working on getting faster and frankly spinning my wheels. And while this is quite possibly down to me when I try and replicate laps I see in videos of faster drivers I simply can not. The braking points and amount of turn in are not the same. I am working hard on improving my skills, but can't dismiss that gear or settings could be slowing me down, as the brake sponge in the CSL Elite pedals did, or weren't slowing me down I guess.

The new physics update has been pleasant feeling, but I haven't posted a faster time with any car or track since. I haven't seen anyone else post such a problem so that's not me blaming it, just thinking out loud. And that's not the point of this thread.

 

[Mirror_man]

Thank you Mirror_man! Tried a few laps because lack of time on Nurburgring GP with Audi R8 LMS and it felt really good. BTW Im using last beta drivers. Comparing to older settings wheel gives sharper feedback with some easy vibrations which probably needs to get use to. Gonna try it later on my day off! Thanks again, you are doing good job!

Yep!! I felt the same dude (feeling) and the vibrations are simply the feedback and not warring much... that´s why I give the option to reduce FEI to 0.... for even less then minimum...

And The Nurb GP is an excellent track to test! Since it has some curves where yu really feal the snaps and the force of feedback interfering with your driving!!! And honestly that should not happen!!! It must be the driver to control the wheel and not the Feddback to control you... as Feedback is just the information you need and must not interfeer negativelly in your driving... making you need to fight it instead of just concentrating on the driving itself...

Thanks @Mirror_man, I've done some brief testing and the feel is interesting. Beyond the preference where you like a lighter feel and I prefer heavier, though I could probably dial that back to my benefit, I would say these are "good" adjustments, but I am not at all faster. I'm currently slow and working on getting faster and frankly spinning my wheels. And while this is quite possibly down to me when I try and replicate laps I see in videos of faster drivers I simply can not. The braking points and amount of turn in are not the same. I am working hard on improving my skills, but can't dismiss that gear or settings could be slowing me down, as the brake sponge in the CSL Elite pedals did, or weren't slowing me down I guess.

The new physics update has been pleasant feeling, but I haven't posted a faster time with any car or track since. I haven't seen anyone else post such a problem so that's not me blaming it, just thinking out loud. And that's not the point of this thread.

But you may use my Setup indeed!!! Just raise the value from ingame FFB Torque untill you feel ok with it! Nothing else!!!

This is more a personal feeling... taste... but don´t put it to the max.. please!!! as Clipping will surely happen...

Now... "What is clipping" you ask!!!! (almost sure)

Read about here https://www.racedepartment.com/threads/like-your-ffb-strong-think-again.30763/

I hope you re a good reader as the text is a bit.. extense... but if you read it (as it must...) at the end I m sure you ll understand, and you will thank me for taking your time this way... (have a good reading please)

 

[Fosterions]

Thank you. I will chip away reading that thread.

Question, to get the wheel to change settings does it need a restart or anything? Sometimes I feel like the changes happen immediately and sometimes not.

 

[Mirror_man]

Thank you. I will chip away reading that thread.

Question, to get the wheel to change settings does it need a restart or anything? Sometimes I feel like the changes happen immediately and sometimes not.

?????? Have you ever read the manual??? an. you may change the config during any game... just press the key with the keywrench and use the "joystick" on the left of the wheel... to chance the variables and the values.. exit pressing again the "key" ...

 

[Fosterions]

?????? Have you ever read the manual??? an. you may change the config during any game... just press the key with the keywrench and use the "joystick" on the left of the wheel... to chance the variables and the values.. exit pressing again the "key" ...

Yeah. Well, I skimmed it and must admit it’s contents aren’t always front of mind and I’m not gonna make a greater effort to make them so. And, like I said, it doesn’t always feel like anything changes and then I’ll restart for whatever reason or come back to it another day and it will feel different without having changed anything. Thus, regardless of the manual, I asked the question.

 

[Knukel]

And, like I said, it doesn’t always feel like anything changes and then I’ll restart for whatever reason or come back to it another day and it will feel different without having changed anything.

I've noticed this too, so i often restart the wheel after changing values. Sometimes the wheel goes off-center if i change values while on track, so IMO it's better to boot after. (Unless very minor changes)

I don't know about ofthers but i always calibrate the wheel in Ps4 login screen before game start.

 

[Mirror_man]

I've noticed this too, so i often restart the wheel after changing values. Sometimes the wheel goes off-center if i change values while on track, so IMO it's better to boot after. (Unless very minor changes)

I don't know about ofthers but i always calibrate the wheel in Ps4 login screen before game start.

I dont.... and just like I said I change settings during game or race when needed... no boot is needed. Except on certain situations where the wheel is given as not connected only in PC2... and in such situations..sometimes its the game that has to be restarted!!

 

[oldphart]

I'm like MM, change on the fly sometimes - no problems and immediate results

 

[Knukel]

I dont.... and just like I said I change settings during game or race when needed... no boot is needed. Except on certain situations where the wheel is given as not connected only in PC2... and in such situations..sometimes its the game that has to be restarted!!

You are probably right & i often restart both just in case. Sure, I do notice instant results when i decrease FOR, Spring or whatever, but i feel like it's slightly different when i boot the game with the exact same setup... I believe that's what the other person meant.

 

[Mirror_man]

I must admit that sometimes for

You are probably right & i often restart both just in case. Sure, I do notice instant results when i decrease FOR, Spring or whatever, but i feel like it's slightly different when i boot the game with the exact same setup... I believe that's what the other person meant.

I must admit that sometimes for no reason the Wheel becomes like almost impossible to turn... and in those cases I just umplug ot from PS4 and replug it in.. and that issue goes away... but in PC2 that may make the game block... and a PC2 restart becomes needed!

If you change SENS it may be different restarting the game.. as most games do an automatic Wheel recalibration when starting... and some others in the start of each race...

as for recentering... the procedure must be done in a pause of the game. simply... dont need to reboot nor unconect and reconect the usb plug... simply must not (cant) be done during race!

 

[serlemke]

I got this wheel recently, been used to the T300 break 'travel', the fanatec break is much harder with that PU form.
Is there any adjustments on the travel size or break sensibility?
Note: It is not a load cell pedal.

 

[Fosterions]

@bedi1982 Look up my post above about braking or search for “pool noodle” and see if that helps. I’d dig the link up, but I’m on mobile and it’s a pain. There is a link to it above in my post whining about being slow.

@Mirror_man I read through the link about clipping last night and get it. Makes sense. So, this morning I baselines back to your recent settings and it feels like I’m holding a dish plate. There’s extremely little feedback from curbs and such ( I know the thread says the butt should feel those, I don’t completely agree, there is some feedback through the wheel) and there’s no lightness of understeer/oversteer. Nothing. It’s a dead dish plate loose enough to spin on a stick like they used to do as a stage show years ago. This CAN’T be how others are feeling this. Can’t be. I can literally hold the wheel between my pinky and thumb without effort through a lap around the Nurburgring. Not lying, tried it. It isn’t fun like this and if this what the settings are supposed to feel like it makes me question the value of a wheel. I may as well tape the DS4 to a dish plate and rotate that. Not kidding.

Now, what are the options here? I have beastly arms with nearly dead nerves? Half true. Broken wheel? How would I know? This is how it’s “supposed to feel”? In which case I’d just rather not.

 

[Bitters]

Curious for those that run CSL Elite Pedals w/ LC Brake... I'm finding in GT Sport that lighting resting my foot on the brake (for LFB) is registering the smallest amount of braking pressure in the game. It seems there is a first few millimeters of travel in the brake that doesn't offer much if any resistance. I just switched from a T3PA setup where this never happened, so it's not like I have lead in my foot to make it heavy. Any ideas/recommendations? Is it a calibration or setting issue? Or is there something mechanically adjustable on the LC brake to offer more resistance at the top/off position.

 

[Mirror_man]

Curious for those that run CSL Elite Pedals w/ LC Brake... I'm finding in GT Sport that lighting resting my foot on the brake (for LFB) is registering the smallest amount of braking pressure in the game. It seems there is a first few millimeters of travel in the brake that doesn't offer much if any resistance. I just switched from a T3PA setup where this never happened, so it's not like I have lead in my foot to make it heavy. Any ideas/recommendations? Is it a calibration or setting issue? Or is there something mechanically adjustable on the LC brake to offer more resistance at the top/off position.

Recalibrate it manually... that has to be done with the pedals connected directly to pc usb port.... and not conected to the Fanatec Base...

 

[Mirror_man]

Curious for those that run CSL Elite Pedals w/ LC Brake... I'm finding in GT Sport that lighting resting my foot on the brake (for LFB) is registering the smallest amount of braking pressure in the game. It seems there is a first few millimeters of travel in the brake that doesn't offer much if any resistance. I just switched from a T3PA setup where this never happened, so it's not like I have lead in my foot to make it heavy. Any ideas/recommendations? Is it a calibration or setting issue? Or is there something mechanically adjustable on the LC brake to offer more resistance at the top/off position.

Maybe all the settings you ve put are not exactly those I listed ... but even so, as I said.. you may play around with different combinations from 2 vvariables that affect the FFB force and wheel resistence: The in game FFB Torque and the FOR from the wheel... since that this last one is on 100 (max) try bigger values from the FFB Torque until you find it confortable... That is very simple to do.. I think...

Have you updated the Driver and firmware with the last version??? (There´s a new one... I must confess... a Beta Version...)

 

[DC2_Evan]

How often do they update the drivers and software for these wheels and pedals? I check mine maybe once a year so I'm sure I'm behind by quite a bit.

 

[Fosterions]

Maybe all the settings you ve put are not exactly those I listed ... but even so, as I said.. you may play around with different combinations from 2 vvariables that affect the FFB force and wheel resistence: The in game FFB Torque and the FOR from the wheel... since that this last one is on 100 (max) try bigger values from the FFB Torque until you find it confortable... That is very simple to do.. I think...

Have you updated the Driver and firmware with the last version??? (There´s a new one... I must confess... a Beta Version...)

Guessing you meant to quote me. I put your settings in line for line and the result I got was the one above. Extremely loose, extremely vague feelings. Pointless for a wheel costing several hundred dollars. Pointless for any wheel. But I can’t prove this because this is the only wheel I have tried, I have no baseline for comparison.

But, as a thought exercise, let’s assume I am right in that when I put the settings in exactly as you have stated that the wheel is not behaving as it should. That would mean something is wrong and it is probably not working correctly at any setting. How do I prove this? Have someone who knows exactly how the wheel should behave in the game try it. I don’t know anyone that knows the game and the wheel well enough locally to do this.

I could try another setup, regardless of what it is as long as it works correctly and see if I can then do things as I expect, specifically turn in. In comparing the DS4 to the wheel the steering is a lot more active and turn in is MUCH better with the controller. But that’s such a tough comparison to make and doesn’t answer the question whether the wheel is behaving as it should. I’m working on getting in another seat to see how that goes.

 

[Mirror_man]

How often do they update the drivers and software for these wheels and pedals? I check mine maybe once a year so I'm sure I'm behind by quite a bit.

Not often... for Fanatec it has to do with the release of different compatible rims... theres also a very recent update for Thrustmaster drivers/ firmware!
This beta I m talking about can only be found seaching on Fanatec Forum for Beta drivers and testers...

 

[Mirror_man]

Guessing you meant to quote me. I put your settings in line for line and the result I got was the one above. Extremely loose, extremely vague feelings. Pointless for a wheel costing several hundred dollars. Pointless for any wheel. But I can’t prove this because this is the only wheel I have tried, I have no baseline for comparison.

But, as a thought exercise, let’s assume I am right in that when I put the settings in exactly as you have stated that the wheel is not behaving as it should. That would mean something is wrong and it is probably not working correctly at any setting. How do I prove this? Have someone who knows exactly how the wheel should behave in the game try it. I don’t know anyone that knows the game and the wheel well enough locally to do this.

I could try another setup, regardless of what it is as long as it works correctly and see if I can then do things as I expect, specifically turn in. In comparing the DS4 to the wheel the steering is a lot more active and turn in is MUCH better with the controller. But that’s such a tough comparison to make and doesn’t answer the question whether the wheel is behaving as it should. I’m working on getting in another seat to see how that goes.

I cant say that... It depends a lot of the strengh you are used to put on you regular driving to... the car I drive daily can be turned with only one thumb... and you did nt say if you had installed the last driver also...
About adapting the setup to your taste it would take you judt 5sec... just set For on 100 and in game torque on a value that will bring some more resistence to turning the wheel... so f... simple it is, mate!
I asure you that when I need to turn a Gt3 or Gt4 car with competition softs on hairpins for example and at a competitive speed I have to use both hands to perform the correct turn... with a resistence very close to realitty... that is the only thing I can say...

 

[DC2_Evan]

Not often... for Fanatec it has to do with the release of different compatible rims... theres also a very recent update for Thrustmaster drivers/ firmware!
This beta I m talking about can only be found seaching on Fanatec Forum for Beta drivers and testers...

Fair enough. I figured they didn't put out a ton of updates for it. Another question, if you can help or know, does changing the wheel rim change ffb? I figured the settings would change as it would be a new wheel and need to be reset but I didn't know if it would change anything else. Thinking about picking up a Xbox One ready wheel rim so I can play the Forza games as well as GTS and PC2 with one setup.

 

[Mirror_man]

Fair enough. I figured they didn't put out a ton of updates for it. Another question, if you can help or know, does changing the wheel rim change ffb? I figured the settings would change as it would be a new wheel and need to be reset but I didn't know if it would change anything else. Thinking about picking up a Xbox One ready wheel rim so I can play the Forza games as well as GTS and PC2 with one setup.

It changes indeed..in many ways.. and I m sure youll need a different config for each game! Csl elite lets you store 5 different ones in its memmory bank!

 

[DC2_Evan]

It changes indeed..in many ways.. and I m sure youll need a different config for each game! Csl elite lets you store 5 different ones in its memmory bank!

I'm torn on getting another base wheel rim that will work on both the xbox and ps4 or getting the McLaren one. Maybe one day

 

[Fosterions]

I cant say that... It depends a lot of the strengh you are used to put on you regular driving to... the car I drive daily can be turned with only one thumb... and you did nt say if you had installed the last driver also...
About adapting the setup to your taste it would take you judt 5sec... just set For on 100 and in game torque on a value that will bring some more resistence to turning the wheel... so f... simple it is, mate!
I asure you that when I need to turn a Gt3 or Gt4 car with competition softs on hairpins for example and at a competitive speed I have to use both hands to perform the correct turn... with a resistence very close to realitty... that is the only thing I can say...

Sure, simple to adjust and I did some tweaking to where I like the weight of the wheel and the feedback a bit better though I’m still slug slow.

You have no way of knowing whether I’m just a whiner, I am a whiner, but maybe not just, and I, currently, have no way of knowing what it *should* feel like.

In the meantime I’ve been watching @kie25’s most recent Nurburgring video. I’m almost six seconds off which is great for the ego. I also noticed the amount of steering input I’m doing and what he’s doing is very different. I have to take a very honest look at my lines first, but also consider I’m not getting the steering input I should be.