"Daily" Race Discussion [Archive]

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Brake a bit later, trail brake better, perfect line and apex point, on the gas sooner, manage wheel spin better, don't lift, and in this race, in the Audi, manage the battery so there's always boost. Repeat at every corner. Easy:rolleyes:
What I want to know is, what times are possible in the Toyota, and what times can the Audi do if you don't manage the battery, AKA, how much time is lost when boost runs out for the main straight and after LaSource. Those seem to be the spots I can always blow by them when they do.

Been bouncing around race C all week and just plugging along in the Toyota. Decided to take the Audi out to hit my k' goal and man what a different experience. A car without terminal understeer at low speed. Havent tried the 908 or 919 but now I am interested as I have always hated how that TS050 drives but usually used it like a safety net. Now to get better.

By the end of the week, as warned/predicted by this board, the Toyota over the Audi, was used by most.

My final notes on my Gr.1/Audi experience this week:
  • The battery needs to be actively managed but it is fiendishly difficult though @GT5Power has managed to make it look easy in his video.
  • There is 1.5 seconds to be gained, but said another way, there is 1.5 seconds to be lost compared to QT if you do not manage it.
  • You need to burp/ease the throttle to avoid wheel spin in second gear.
  • If managed, it is faster than the Toyota. I was never caught on Blanchimont and I managed a handful of passes.
  • In addition to all the things @Rexracer702 said you also need to use the brake and throttle *concurrently* and still hit the apexes. I was vulnerable under braking as I have not mastered the whole brake/throttle/downshift/pray at once thing.
  • It is easy to efficiently harvest maintain some charge up to Blanchimont. That is worth 0.5 s.
  • It is near impossible to manage the battery until Eau Rouge. I managed this task in practice but not in the race. That is worth about 1.0 s.
  • If you fully decharge by the 100 metre marker on the start/finish you are dead. It is hard. Only hard braking will restart the charge cycle and you lose two opportunities to painlessly harvest. It is downward self-defeating cycle.
In the right hands this car will beat the Toyota over the course of the race. There are rewards for those who master it. I am not up to it.... yet. For sure, this week, I have added a new tool to tool bag.

Finally, if you do not manage the battery and your QT time for the Toyota is within 1.0s of the Audi then you should select the Toyota for the race.
 
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Well I have finished trying A race.
It just provided me anger and frustration since they can punt you off line from behind there’s no penalty. Dive onto grass turn 1 sideswipe me off line? No penalty.
Stupid me. I knew these races sucked I never should have entered.
Oh yeah, I make side contact? 4 second pen...Unplayable.
 
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If the game/stewards don’t punish you for it, it’s fair game.

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No cheating here. :lol:
 
By the end of the week, as warned/predicted by this board, the Toyota over the Audi, was used by most.

My final notes on my Gr.1/Audi experience this week:
  • The battery needs to be actively managed but it is fiendishly difficult though @GT5Power has managed to make it look easy in his video.
  • There is 1.5 seconds to be gained, but said another way, there is 1.5 seconds to be lost compared to QT if you do not manage it.
  • You need to burp/ease the throttle to avoid wheel spin in second gear.
  • If managed, it is faster than the Toyota. I was never caught on Blanchimont and I managed a handful of passes.
  • In addition to all the things @Rexracer702 said you also need to use the brake and throttle *concurrently* and still hit the apexes. I was vulnerable under braking as I have not mastered the whole brake/throttle/downshift/pray at once thing.
  • It is easy to efficiently harvest maintain some charge up to Blanchimont. That is worth 0.5 s.
  • It is near impossible to manage the battery until Eau Rouge. I managed this task in practice but not in the race. That is worth about 1.0 s.
  • If you fully decharge by the 100 metre marker on the start/finish you are dead. It is hard. Only hard braking will restart the charge cycle and you lose two opportunities to painlessly harvest. It is downward self-defeating cycle.
In the right hands this car will beat the Toyota over the course of the race. There are rewards for those who master it. I am not up to it.... yet. For sure, this week, I have added a new tool to tool bag.

Finally, if you do not manage the battery and your QT time for the Toyota is within 1.0s of the Audi then you should select the Toyota for the race.
I suspect that this strategy may start expanding to other tracks. There are tracks like RBR which are super demanding on hybrid and even the Toyota struggles to keep its charge, so the R18 isn't getting anywhere there, but maybe it could be of use somewhere else which I'd like to do some testing for.

It's not something people can catch onto quickly though, as it's not as simple as seeing what the leader uses. You have to check the replay to pick up on it, which most people won't bother with. Plus those who brake with their right foot or use the right stick on the pad for acceleration and braking cannot do it at all. So abuse it before it becomes mainstream :P
 
I really don't understand the matching. With my alt, I'm getting mostly B rooms. When I got 3rd the other night, there was a .57 on pole, a .58, a couple 59's, 2:00 out to about 10th, then .01's and .02's and maybe a couple higher. My main is only 1800 DR more, still B (26k) and am in an S,A+, A and half dozen B room. 57's and 58's to 11th, I'm 15th with my .59.9 and only 2 Qualifiers are over 2 minutes. I get blasted on the start from behind, and when I'm reset I'm almost 9 seconds back. Spent all race working my way back to 16th.(
 
Yeah matching is really strange in this game. I'm usually around my K speed for the race I go for yet sometimes I'm usually around 6th with the odd higher and a few much lower. Then you get weeks like this where I'm getting 11th to 16th only. Nothing better than 11th and only a few worse than 16th. Even random should get me a top 5 now and again or if I'm just too off the pace why am I not last?
 
I really don't understand the matching. With my alt, I'm getting mostly B rooms. When I got 3rd the other night, there was a .57 on pole, a .58, a couple 59's, 2:00 out to about 10th, then .01's and .02's and maybe a couple higher. My main is only 1800 DR more, still B (26k) and am in an S,A+, A and half dozen B room. 57's and 58's to 11th, I'm 15th with my .59.9 and only 2 Qualifiers are over 2 minutes. I get blasted on the start from behind, and when I'm reset I'm almost 9 seconds back. Spent all race working my way back to 16th.(


That’s about the cutoff for the top split race in the Dailies in NA. I had a few races early in the week that were all A+/A at prime time, but for most of the week, the high Bs fill the room. Honestly, that’s part of the reason that B to A gap is so hard to bridge since you have to beat higher (sometimes much higher) players to cross it.
 
That’s about the cutoff for the top split race in the Dailies in NA. I had a few races early in the week that were all A+/A at prime time, but for most of the week, the high Bs fill the room. Honestly, that’s part of the reason that B to A gap is so hard to bridge since you have to beat higher (sometimes much higher) players to cross it.
Which is why I never get to A unless it's a good combo for me. I've done it at Tsukuba a couple of times with slower cars, and once with GR-1 at LeMans with good matching that week. Just hit 40k once or twice, but unless I "manage" my account, aka not racing unless I qualify and can finish in the top 1/3 or so, I end up back at B. Sometimes it seems that the best match ups, and cleanest races are at low SR-S. I get beat up by aggressive drivers at 99 that know what they can get away with. Had a faster driver behind me in my last race at Spa (no Q?) He caught up, but wasn't much faster, maybe more consistant. He bumped me in almost every corner for a lap. Every time I hit the brakes, I thought he was going to send me into the grass. Finally, he forced his way past. I repassed once, but lost it again. No penalty for him since I never left the track. Seems typical for me when I'm gridded in the back half with lots of A drivers.
 
Just logged on for a few last b races. My qually is a 2::04 in the Jag. And that’s good enough for last place in a B/S LOBBY of nothing but TTS and RCZs. Nothing but FFs out there.
At any rate, I’m having some fun back of the pack battles. Just wish I was a little more competitive
 
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but unless I "manage" my account, aka not racing unless I qualify and can finish in the top 1/3 or so, I end up back at

I think everybody who plays has a point...We all have a point level where we will start to ‘manage’...
Today I just wanted to race, even though I didn’t care for the races...
I raced 2 A 2 B and 2 C races.
I finished up minus 6000 dr and minus 6 sr to 93, since I raced A last...
If I don’t focus on one race I like...The points fall quickly, just from q time alone more than anything. I did get taken out pretty good on A race twice, C race I picked up spots but there were still drivers way below my rank beating me...B race my 02.7? qualifying time put me around dead last on the grid.
Points go down quick if you lose to multiple players below your dr letter rank.
For me, collecting a lot of points can be a problem...
Once you’ve collected them, the game wants you to go FIA imo. Dailies get riskier if you’re not starting up front...
So, each time you rank up on DR you make more work necessary for yourself IF you want to keep those points. You need the q time...You need pace...That means putting in some time...
I’ve raced both ways...Today I was more casual, but I’ve also looked to manage and carefully selected my races to just gain points...
I guess what I’m getting at is a good race is a good race...The points thing is just for vanity...
(I know this is true, but I fall in the trap of caring too much about these points every time a favored combo comes up :). It happens every time.)
 
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<...snip...> Honestly, that’s part of the reason that B to A gap is so hard to bridge since you have to beat higher (sometimes much higher) players to cross it.

Which is why I never get to A unless it's a good combo for me. I've done it at Tsukuba a couple of times with slower cars, and once with GR-1 at LeMans with good matching that week. Just hit 40k once or twice, but unless I "manage" my account, aka not racing unless I qualify and can finish in the top 1/3 or so, I end up back at B. <...snip...>

I think everybody who plays has a point...We all have a point level where we will start to ‘manage’...
<...snip...>
.The points thing is just for vanity...
(I know this is true, but I fall in the trap of caring too much about these points every time a favored combo comes up :). It happens every time.)

From mid-high B and up there are no pushovers. It means every A+/A/B (at high SR) will be competitive and every driver needs to be *on* their game. If the DR is engineered properly your DR should stay about the same if your driving ability and results remain the same. That implies if you worked your tail off to get to a specific level (practice laps and a good QT time) then you will need to maintain that work ethic to stay at that level. Some outside factors will help like experience and new learnings, however, depressingly, ones basic talent is mostly fixed and it is not just going to *pop* one day.

According to a few articles that I read the DR points system is mostly a zero-sum game and always a zero sum game with DR.C and up. That is, for any given race the DR points are redistributed amongst the participants and the total transfer nets to zero. If interested, I can find those explanations.
 
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Got knocked down to A/A in that last RAce B. Back up to A/S in this one. Lost P1 at T5 exit. F-Type eas 3-4 seconds for the whole race. Pulled away the last 3 laps. M4 doesn't feel fast. Held the WRX off, but it messed up and the TT brigade attacked it. TT stayed 2-3 seconds behind me for most of the race. Was catching on the last lap. Using the 86 next.
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Edit: This was real. No mess ups. The FFs are dead. Had a five-way battle for P1. I lost out to a TT, but caught up and just picked them off. P1 fell to 3rd, but was patient. By Lap 5, we checked out and were gone. The 86 was okay, but the Slophy was slightly better at the end. I had P1 for a couple laps as the Slophy went wide on the run to the top of the hill. Slophy is next
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The Slophy is nice. I stayed 1 second behind P1. The WRX was P2 at the start and got too ambitious at the entry to the corkscrew. Should have waited. Anyway, trailed the 86 most of the race and I made a mistake(around Lap8) before the Cooper Tires underpass. Couldn't close the gap.

I'd say the cars are even. Slophy has downforce for the corners, 86 seems to be less MR risky. Don't bother with an FF. They're fast at the start, but by Lap 5-6, they are toast. Brands Hatch time, in the Mustang and RX-V.
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I always do that (although slightly more to the left with the wheels on the curbstones) and never got a penalty. I have "been awarded" a penalty if I touched the grass there.

Yep. The only question becomes at what point is it too much work to maintain, when you could just relax and race for the fun as opposed to all out try hard mode...

I always race for fun . . . every race for me! Even at my worst (24 January 2021, Monza, GR.4 Corvette) I have a great time just racing.

EDIT: I should caveat this by saying I have no idea what DR is as I suck and rarely see any points awarded. I concentrate more on SR and completing clean races.
 
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@05XR8 - Are you going to try out the McLaren at all? Would be good to know if that's going to be competitive here...
I'm sure they will stay parked in the garage. I'd have to spend heaps of time with both 650S. I'd be surprised if the 650S/NSX/Citroen/Cayman/4C were lacking in tyre & engine performance. Best gauge would be qualy laps in Time Trial Mode, with RM and BOP on.

No qualy in the Mustang. Started 16/16. I was letting an AMG recover in front of me down the long straight. A Vantage thinks that means I was giving it the right-hander. Nope. Onstead of waiting, wants to pass me in the corner from behind. Knocks me off. :rolleyes: Doesn't apologise. Guess the name fits(9th place). Fortunate to recover and make up spots.
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Set a qualy time. Vantage in the last race starts P3, but someone gets booted before the start.
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@05XR8 - Are you going to try out the McLaren at all? Would be good to know if that's going to be competitive here...
I took out the McLaren, BB +2 then BB +3.
No stop, one spot gained. Ahead of me was one Ferrari that no stopped and a Jaguar and two TT that pittedthe Clio is a good drive on Monza but add a bunch of others and it's a meat grinder
 
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From mid-high B and up there are no pushovers. It means every A+/A/B (at high SR) will be competitive and every driver needs to be *on* their game. If the DR is engineered properly your DR should stay about the same if your driving ability and results remain the same. That implies if you worked your tail off to get to a specific level (practice laps and a good QT time) then you will need to maintain that work ethic to stay at that level. Some outside factors will help like experience and new learnings, however, depressingly, ones basic talent is mostly fixed and it is not just going to *pop* one day.

According to a few articles that I read the DR points system is mostly a zero-sum game and always a zero sum game with DR.C and up. That is, for any given race the DR points are redistributed amongst the participants and the total transfer nets to zero. If interested, I can find those explanations.

From @Sven Jurgens

A quick explanation.

Door numbers mean little when you or other in the room are below DR.B (below 10,000 DR)
Door number is your DR reverse sorted alphabetically, 9 gets door number one, 8,000 comes after 900, etc.

The formula for DR is

You gain 80 points from each driver you finish ahead of, adjusted for the difference in your DR vs the other driver's DR

80 + (DR difference / 500) for each driver.

If your DR is higher you get less points (minimum 1)
If your DR is lower you get more points (maximum 160)

It's a zero sum exchange, so in reverse you give 80 points to each driver you finish behind.
(You can't end up below 1 yet still give out the points you owe, technically not zero sum, point inflation happens at the bottom)
Disconnecting counts as finishing last (you still give points to those who do stay connected until the end)

To get off the ground, you'll need to finish about half way up. It depends on the room though and who you beat. If you get matched with an A/S driver who crashes or disconnect, you'll get 160 points from that driver alone.
 
I knew the thing was slow, but jeez.... An RCZ went off at the start and I passed the F-Type because, the player it cooked its tyres. ONly way to make up spots in this car.

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I'll try the 458 and 650S tomorrow. Leaving the Citroen to anyone else.

Oh, Daytona has an infield.

The Silverstone 24H ain't happening this weekend though. :P
 
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Just starting 2nd race C. 1st went from 16th to 6th and would have done better if I hadn't been rammed at beginning. This race starting 19th and last, but A+ in this and several As in first, problem with being C/S. Got punted again, lost SR because I blew a fuse when the 3rd guy gave me an SR down with a stupid move. It's a good race, if I quali I think I'll do OK, the GT-R still handles fine on lap 13 and has no need to pit. Might try another car, but can't see an improvement for me.
 
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