This has been driving me crazy so I actually spent like 3 hours today testing and I think I've got it figured out. For reference this is gt7 on a csw 2.5, xbox hub, ps5, drivehub on beta 12. I'm not sure if this works with any other combination.
This is a wall of text but if you use a CSW and drivehub I promise it's worth a read, especially if you're having FFB issues post update.
So, basically, you have the option for the game to see your wheel as either a GT DD Pro or as a CSL Elite. This matters, because the game handles FFB very differently depending on which wheel it sees the csw as. If any of y'all with a CSW and drivehub end up trying this, please let me know what your experience is. But make sure to follow the directions closely when it comes to unplugging and turning stuff on, there is a pretty specific sequence and skipping or doing anything out of order can stop the "mode switch" from happening.
For GT DD Pro "mode", start with ps5 in rest mode, drivehub unplugged from ps5, wheelbase off. Plug in the drivehub, then turn on the wheelbase and let it calibrate itself and wait for the numbers to flash on the screen. Then turn on the ps5 using the button on the front of the console. Now if you go into gt7 and go into a race or event or whatever, then into controller settings -> button configuration. You should see this:
View attachment 1154530
Now, this is where it gets interesting. In this mode prior to update 1.15, the FFB would be very strong. Now, it suffers from the same "issue" that the actual GT DD Pro does since the update. FFB will be very weak, but at max torque 10/sensitivity 1, and then FF 100 and FOR 120 on the wheel settings I find it totally fine and actually really enjoyable. Noticeably more detail than pre-update.
For CSL Elite "mode", we will start the same way (this is necessary to switch between "modes"). Console in rest mode, wheelbase off, drivehub unplugged from console. Now, plug in drivehub, then turn on the console using the button on the front. Wait for the console to get to the screen where you click on your profile picture, then turn on the wheelbase. Let it do its calibration, then use the buttons on the wheelbase to select your profile and go into GT7. Now, if you go into a race and go to controller settings -> button configuration, you should now see this screen:
View attachment 1154531
Prior to update 1.15, doing this would result in the wheel having what seems to me to be roughly 30-40% less FFB strength than the other mode, even with all the same settings on the wheel and in game. Now, post-update, this mode feels exactly the same as it did before the update, and therefore has much stronger FFB strength than in GT DD Pro mode. It's not as much as GT DD Pro mode pre-update, but for those who currently find their wheel lacking FFB strength, you should be much happier in this CSL Elite mode (but make sure to turn FOR back down to 100 and max torque to lower than 10 in this mode!)
I'm still not sure what exactly it is that makes this occur, or even if this was done on purpose or accidentally by the drivehub developers, but it's very useful. It functions essentially identically to the compatibility mode on the DD fanatec wheelbases, which almost makes me think this is a purposeful feature, but it could just be a coincidence. It is perfectly replicable for me now, the error I was making that I had mentioned before in a previous post was not turning off/rest mode the console and unplugging the drivehub before trying to switch modes.