Driving Force Pro Pedal Problems

  • Thread starter Arwin
  • 264 comments
  • 140,710 views
Does anyone have Logitechs Customer Support number? my DFP doesn't work anymore. it's trys to calibrate back and forth but never is seen by OS guess i'll be sending it back.

sucks!!

any help would be great. i can't live w/o my wheel!!!!

see movie clip of the wheel "booting up" upon my plugging it into the USB port of my PC.

take note of when the "hard" stop is engaged/disengaged (at 3 o'clock position) also look at the amount of time it spins back and forth. lastly, look at the blinking lights alternating back and forth when the wheel is "done". it doesn't show up to the OS at ALL or dxtweak2 :grumpy:

here's the link

http://s39.yousendit.com/d.aspx?id=18MI3RSAGONQV0OEONQJ3YF7TL
 
thanks Werner.

i'm sending it back. i've only had it for 2 months so i'm just gunna send it back for a replacement.

thanks again for your help!!
 
Hi

Does anybody know the actual fail rate of the DFP's pedals? Like, roughly what percentage of DFPs have failed, or is the nature of the fault that all pedals will eventually become fautly?

The thing is, I'm about to buy one, and it's from the first shipment of DFP's to this country (Australia), so there is probably a chance of it being faulty, I'm just wondering how much of a chance there is? Does anyone know?

Also, the DFP is pretty much unavailable where I live, all retailers have sold out and Sony aren't shipping any more units for at least 1 month (or so I'm told by retailers).

So it seems as though they don't want to sell any more units until its fixed :(

Luckily I managed to find one at a retailer with 1 unit left :)

I think the situation with the DFP totally sucks because playing GT4 with a controller is pathetic, and not being able to buy a DFP is just unacceptable!
 
Hello nurburgring

Well thats right, but I know the number of failures is highly .

We had last month a big GT4 Event with ca. 24 DFP Wheels
I noticed over 2 days , 5 DFP Wheels with Pedal Problems

Two Wheels come to the Event with the error and three become the error in the course of the Event.


.

.
 
Hello,

I have a problem similar to most of you.......but I have not seen my specific problem posted here yet.

My problem is my gas pedal. Without touching it at all my throttle reads half throttle. If i push the gas pedal in a little it responds correctly with slow acceleration. If i push it all the way down in responds correctly with fast acceleration. The problem is when I go to break and take my foot off the gas pedal.....the throttle is still reading half throttle when I am not touching the gas pedal at all. It makes for tough racing when tring to break into the corners at half throttle.

If anyone has any suggestions to fix this please help.

Plantazztic
 
I apologize if someone else has already stated this, but I don't have time to scour the entire thread (but I have time to post this, so flame away :crazy: ).

My pedals are acting up more and more lately, and the accelerator constantly loses its ability to hit 100% WOT. I was doing the thing of pulling the USB cable out of the PS2 while paused and reinserting it, but that got old fast. I decided once to pause the game, disconnect the connector to the pedals, reconnect the connector, and continue the game. Lo and behold it worked! 👍 The gas pedal could hit 100% WOT after that. I guess the game resets the calibration when the pedals "go away" or something. I don't know how "good" that is to the electronics inside, but if it's simply a voltage being applied across the potentiometers, I don't see how it could be bad for the electronics. Any good electrical engineer would have made sure it would be okay anyway. :sly:

I'm just glad Logitech is aware of the problem and is sending me a new set of pedals no questions asked. :dopey: Even if the new ones have problems, there is this awesome thread showing what to fix and how. :D :bowdown:
 
So is the potentiometer problem due to incorrect voltage or is it the physical movement of them that is malfunctioning? I ask because when my wheel is in 200 degree mode and the left LED is on, I can see the right LED flickering very faintly, and it seems like that would have something to do with incorrect voltage...
 
Werner Winkels
Hello FUNKED1

Maybe You should to compare the Potentiometer values before.
The CH Products Pro Pedals "USB Version" use 50K Potentiometer.
( The DFP Pedal use 10K )

http://www.chproducts.com/shop/parts.html
Click to expand...

Thanks!

Good news: DFP is OK with 50k pots. I did a test. Full calibration range, no deadzone or noise. 👍

Bad news: The CH DB-15 gameport connector can not be easily adapted to the DB-9 pinout required for the DFP, because the CH Pedals only use 4 pins on the DB-15, but the DFP needs 6 pins.

So I am going to remove all of the original CH wiring and replace it with the cable and connector from the DFP. The pot connectors are different, so I will make an adapter that goes inside the CH Pedals. I won't make any permanent alterations to the DFP cable or the CH Pedals, so that both may be returned to their original condition in a few minutes.

After that I will create a DB-9 to DB-15 adapter cable so that the pedals may still be used on a PC. :)

PS I am using a very old unit called "CH Pedals". These have a black base and are gameport-only, not USB. You can get them very cheap on eBay, because they were quite popular with flight simulator users until the USB pedals replaced them.
 
Good times man. :)

Project update - I broke one of the CH pots trying to remove the connector, then I damaged the other one because my soldering iron was set too hot. :ill:

But I have some replacements coming in the mail. I think it was just bad luck, and hopefully I can complete the project.
 
FUNKED1
Thanks!

Good news: DFP is OK with 50k pots. I did a test. Full calibration range, no deadzone or noise. 👍

Bad news: The CH DB-15 gameport connector can not be easily adapted to the DB-9 pinout required for the DFP, because the CH Pedals only use 4 pins on the DB-15, but the DFP needs 6 pins.

So I am going to remove all of the original CH wiring and replace it with the cable and connector from the DFP. The pot connectors are different, so I will make an adapter that goes inside the CH Pedals. I won't make any permanent alterations to the DFP cable or the CH Pedals, so that both may be returned to their original condition in a few minutes.

After that I will create a DB-9 to DB-15 adapter cable so that the pedals may still be used on a PC. :)

PS I am using a very old unit called "CH Pedals". These have a black base and are gameport-only, not USB. You can get them very cheap on eBay, because they were quite popular with flight simulator users until the USB pedals replaced them.
Click to expand...




Thats nice
Thak You for the information 👍



You must only connect the original DFP Pedal DB-9 Cable in this device : https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showpost.php?p=1418495&postcount=26

If You want to use the original CH DB-15 gameport connector too,
Please to notice: The DFP wiring use two bridges !
You must maybe insert a switch to disjoin the bridges of the black and the red cable ! ( On my drawing )

If the original CH wiring use a other bridges, you must to disjoin this, by using the pedals on a DFP Wheel !

Maybe it is better to add a 6-Pin connector to the Pedal-Unit
each Pin is connected with one of the Potentiometer Pins.

Thereafter You can connect several cables / adapter with different wiring device :)


Laters
 
My pedals are now stuffed, brakes flicker on at random times, mostly when I'm pumping the accelerator.

This leads me to believe that ALL DFPs have faulty pedals.

And I was really careful with my pedals too :(

Dammit Logitech, what were you thinking?
 
Well I have good news. My adaptation of CH Pedals works perfectly. :)

I have a few details to "clean up", but I will soon post complete instructions with photos and a parts list so people know exactly what to purchase. Total budget for the project was about $10. :)

PS:

Some tech info for Werner et al:

Throttle signal range (white wire)
Throttle released: ~+5V
Throttle depressed: ~+0.2V

Brake signal range (green wire)
Brake released: ~+0.2V
Brake depressed: ~+5V

I had one problem with the CH 50kohm pots. Because they had a wider range than the Logitech 10kohm pots, the Brake and Throttle signals would sometimes go below 0.2V.
WHEN BOTH SIGNALS GO BELOW 0.2V, DFP WILL THINK THE CONNECTOR IS REMOVED, AND START RECALIBRATION!!!
So it was always recalibrating itself, every time I pushed the throttle all the way down.
To fix this I had to add a small resistor, between the negative terminal on the pot and the black wire in the DB9 connector. Resistance of about 2kohm will keep the DFP from recalibrating. Once I added the resistor, everything worked perfect. :)
 
FUNKED1
Well I have good news. My adaptation of CH Pedals works perfectly. :)

I have a few details to "clean up", but I will soon post complete instructions with photos and a parts list so people know exactly what to purchase. Total budget for the project was about $10. :)

PS:

Some tech info for Werner et al:

Throttle signal range (white wire)
Throttle released: ~+5V
Throttle depressed: ~+0.2V

Brake signal range (green wire)
Brake released: ~+0.2V
Brake depressed: ~+5V

I had one problem with the CH 50kohm pots. Because they had a wider range than the Logitech 10kohm pots, the Brake and Throttle signals would sometimes go below 0.2V.
WHEN BOTH SIGNALS GO BELOW 0.2V, DFP WILL THINK THE CONNECTOR IS REMOVED, AND START RECALIBRATION!!!
So it was always recalibrating itself, every time I pushed the throttle all the way down.
To fix this I had to add a small resistor, between the negative terminal on the pot and the black wire in the DB9 connector. Resistance of about 2kohm will keep the DFP from recalibrating. Once I added the resistor, everything worked perfect. :)
Click to expand...



That's pretty hardcore, but didn't you try Arwin's fix method first? Does that even work?

I'm currently trying to wrangle a new set of DFP pedals out of Logitech internationally since they can't replace or repair them in this country 👎

And now my accelerator pedal is starting to squeak! :grumpy:

And my wheel makes two clicking noises when rotating anti-clockwise from between 270 and 180 degrees! :scared:

*stresses out*
 
Ok, I just tried the pedal fix and here's what happened:

First of all , my pedals look like ppith's (pictures on the first page of this thread) on the inside. All I did was pull some more of the black cable into the base and tape the wires of that cable (that connect to the potentiometers) to the plastic beneath, like ppith did. After doing this there was definitely no movement between the wires where I had taped them. I put everything back together and tested it out with GT4 but the brakes were still flickering on and off when I pumped the gas on and off repeatedly.

So I took it all apart again and decided to remove everything inside the pedals to see how it worked. The first thing I noticed was that the potentiometers that are connected to the pedals move around quite a bit and arent really held in there properly. So I took those out and rotated them a bit and noticed they rotate around almost 360 degrees, whereas the pedals only need to rotate a fraction of that. When I put them back I resetted them to 0 degrees when attaching them to the pedals so that 0 degrees of pedal rotation = 0 degrees on the pots. I also untwisted the wires connecting the pots so that there was less tension there, and less risk of them interfering with each other. Then I stuck them to the base like the first time, except they didnt stick too well 'cause there was some grease there now from handling it too much, so I used some blu-tac on top of the sticky tape to really make sure the wires didnt move around. I think the position of the black cable (like, how much of it you feed into the base) and untwisting the pot wires also helps to relieve most of the tension there that may be the cause of the problem.

And that was basically it, I put it back together (it was easier this time since the pots werent moving around so much and didnt need to be held in to get the cover back on).

I tested it with GT4 again and so far I cannot get the brakes flickering to occur, so it seems to have worked.

I think the main thing to do is just try and get the pot wires untwisted (this will require removing them from the pedals) so that there is lots of freedom of movement between them, and THEN fasten them to the base with some tape or whatever is best.

I still don't understand what is the cause of the problem though, I'm not sure why movement between the wires connecting the pots would cause the brakes to flicker on and off. The pots were definitely not rotating by themselves, they would have to rotate a hell of a lot to get such extreme on/off of the brake pedal. My guess is that the wires connecting the pots are very delicate and any movement of those wires causes them to send some strange signals.

Anyway, if you are thinking of giving this a try definitely do it, it's not very complicated inside and should fix any problems with the pedals giving strange signals.
 
Well, I just want to say what I've said before. If you have same problems as I had with my pedals, give this a try if you have the newer(?) model with all-metal-potentiometers (with connectors). To be honest, these "tape wires to the plastic" or "straighten up the twisted wires" don't make any sense to me.
Quattro20v
Hi! I had some problems with my pedals. Throttle disappeared completely quite often and some times it went nuts and was 100% on even if I didn't touch the pedal. Well I opened up the thing and checked the pots and the connections. The wire connectors were all really loose. So I just disconnected wires from pots and squeezed the connectors with pliers. Now the connectors sit tight in the pots and all the problems with the throttle disappeared. Afterwards came problem with the break pedal. It didn't return to the up-position so there was always a little bit of red visible in the brake indicator. I opened up the thing again and adjusted the springs so they are strong enough to push the pedal to it's up-position. It is also important to put the thing back together very precisely so that the springs sit in their right positions.

After these adjustments I've done something like 5000km's without one single problem. 👍
Click to expand...
^And still not a single problem.
 
My gas pedal is messing up real badly and making it really hard for me to race. Even when i'm not stepping on the gas, I'm going at 50% power. I can go full throttle but I cant go below 50% power. I've tried restarting my ps, unplugging and replugging my Logitech Pro Force wheel but the problem is still there. How can I fix this? THanks in advance!
 
<quote>Well, I just want to say what I've said before. If you have same problems as I had with my pedals, give this a try if you have the newer(?) model with all-metal-potentiometers (with connectors). To be honest, these "tape wires to the plastic" or "straighten up the twisted wires" don't make any sense to me.</quote>

Same thing.

Its easy. I'll explain what i did in steps.

1. Open your pedals

2. Disconnect the wires from the pots, making sure you know which goes where.

3. Using pliers, the connections on the wires are to be squeezes to an almost shut position.

4. reconnect wires to pots, if you have done step 3 right, then you should need quite a bit of force to re connect them.

5. inbetween both pots, when they are back in position, you should see bit of a gap between them, approximately 2 to 4 mm thick. there also should be a plastic divider which is apart of the casing.

this gap is to be filled. use small bits of paper, maybe 3 inch square
and fold it on itself.

now you have the paper folded to and inch by about half an inch, squeeze enough of these in the gaps until your potentiometers are firmly squeezed together.

6. make sure everything is back in place, and put the plate back on.
 
It sounds complicated, but the gist of it is to just pull it all apart and check that all the pieces are connected properly and seated properly. The good news is that the design of the thing is really simple. Just remember where everything goes so you don't forget something when putting it back. Good luck, I'm sure it will fix your problem. If you live in one of the "lucky countries" where Logitech will send you a free unit over the phone, maybe try that first.

Just a question to other people who have adjusted the springs on their pedals - to tighten them do you pull the top part of the spring (i.e the part that makes contact with the underside of the pedal base) anti-clockwise or clockwise? I'm trying to make the brake pedal a lot tighter and I can bend the sliver spring out more, but the black spring is very tight and hardly unwinds...doing this didnt make much of a difference, am I doing the right thing? I really want my brake pedal to feel tight like a real pedal :)
 
I too am having this problem. Seeing as how I lost my receipt a long time ago and have no way of proving that I actually bought a DFP, I seem to only have the option of buying another set or performing the "surgery." I am afraid to disassemble the pedals because I don't want to mess up and not have them working at all and be left with nothing.

Does anyone know of any way to buy the (supposedly new and improved ) pedals by itself instead of the whole wheel-and-pedal package? I tried the FrexGP site but I couldn't find any price listings and it also warns that assembly is required.
 
amazing read, guys, thx !!

i got 2 DFP's a year ago, and when i opened them up, i have:
pedal_mod2.jpg


and not:
attachment.php


i'm gonna glue in the pots to the holes {black "ball" used to secure :yuck: pot}
 
I bought my DFP online at amazon.com from a seller in the US (Since I live in the US) a little more than a year ago so would I be able to replace it for a brand new one or how much would I have to pay to get it replaced or fixed? How would I be able to prove I bought this?
 

Similar threads

D
Driving Force GT weird problems!
Replies
3
Views
775
Daz555
D
R
I need longer screws on fanatec Clubsport v2 pedal faceplate
Replies
7
Views
619
super_gt
super_gt
I
Load cell pedals part II - Upgrade route....
Replies
6
Views
1K
Ian JB
I
seadog777
Central support column rigs - any advice?
Replies
1
Views
627
kilesa4568
kilesa4568
super_gt
Fanatec ClubSport Cockpit Formula
Replies
3
Views
2K
i386
I

Latest Posts

Back