Fanatec Announcements: CSW V2 Reviews Out

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Roush_fan_99
@ LogiForce, you said to move the piston to a favorable position before filling it, aren't you supposed to push the shaft all the way in before you fill the small chamber?
I made the stupid mistake of leaving the spring on when I unscrewed the small cap to fill it back up after getting rid of bubbles and then I went to push on the shaft and it blew both seals, but luckily it wasn't too big of a mess and I just loosened then up and stuffed the O-rings back in place, tightened it back up and fill the small chamber again
My point is that if you don't push the rod all the way in before topping off the oil, wouldn't that put more stress on the O-Rings or am I overthinking it, or maybe a little air?

And if I moved the pedal rod down to the first whole and set my sensitivity lower, I could get full braking power, correct? Or am I backwards with the sensitivity?

I'll experiment this week maybe

You are supposed to push the piston down for as much liquid pre-load you want. With a real shock you do not either want to have that you bottom out the shock every time as this would make for a horrible ride. In fact at that point you are always given the advice to replace a shock, because this happens due to a leak or when new a manufacturing default.

Watch this video. You will see a shock needs high pressure.




But yeah, the o-rings will heed to endure more. However they should be able to in the first place. The reason I did not notice this will testing is because I am still learning on how to more properly fill a shock by the minute. And I did loose some pressure sometimes while racing, but very slowly and I did not think too much of it. I thought it was normal. Again I was/am a n00b when it comes to RC shocks.


You are incorrect on the brake. Simracer92 corrected me ampage ago that when moving down the brake a hole, you can only get up to 70% braking power even with the knob at 10 (max sensitivity).
You can get full braking power by pushing your foot down on the pedal and applying as much pressure as needed. Setting the knob on 1 means you need to apply a lot of pressure, and at 10 it is the least amount of pressure needed from your foot. Just experiment with the knob a bit in driver menu. Apply a constant pressure with your hand and turn the knob. You will see what I mean with the sensitivity then.


deloodrm
I would watch out with teflon. I tried it and it just desintegrated when in contact with the oil. Now what?

Maybe its my new oil at holds up better with the teflon, dunno.
Now what? I guess go complain to Fanatec in masses. They should technically fix this issue under warranty conditions.
 
Fanatec uses a unified driver. Meaning all their products are supported through one driver. So yes, driver 132 is the latest. Also when installing a new Fanatec driver, always uninstall the old one first to avoid any issues by old files and stuff interfering with the new ones.


"The electronics of the CSW is entirely different from the CSR and Porsche wheels and therefore the firmware numbers are different."

This is directly copied from Thomas's blog, but I might very well have misunderstood the issue, as I do not own any Fanatec hardware as of now. Anyway version 132 should be indeed the one needed here.
 
^He means CSP and CSW.... Things in the clubsport series

@ logiforce, ok thank you, The whole loadcell sensitivity thing was confusing at first, I think I got it now
 
"The electronics of the CSW is entirely different from the CSR and Porsche wheels and therefore the firmware numbers are different."

This is directly copied from Thomas's blog, but I might very well have misunderstood the issue, as I do not own any Fanatec hardware as of now. Anyway version 132 should be indeed the one needed here.

A driver is not the firmware.

Firmware is what runs the electronics on the device itself.
A driver on the other hand makes sure that Windows can communicate with all the different firmwares in the devices from Fanatec.

So a unified driver means that Fanatec put all their code for all hardware inside one driver software package to make your Windows installatie able to communicate with the devices.

So basically as a customer you do not have to worry about compatibility issues for your driver (ONLY the firmware!). Maybe Fanatec should advertise this better and make it less confusing on the support/drivers page.
 
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How to set your loadcell (if using with Fanatec wheel)

First, connect pedals directly to wheel, then set ABS to 100.
Apply pressure to the brake pedal, to where YOU want full braking to be.
While keeping pressure applied, get someone to adjust the brake potentiometer until you start to feel the rumble motors kick in.
You have now set YOUR maximum brake force.

If you want to use the ABS feature for pre lock-up warning, set ABS on your wheel to 70-80, apply pressure until you feel the rumble, and in theory, you shouldn't lock-up.

As you get used to your new brake pedal, you will probably start to apply more pressure when braking, when this starts to happen, turn the potentiometer anti clockwise to stop locking up.

I have not tried Fanaleds on a PC, I believe that you can now use the brake rumble feature with this, but I don't know how this works.
 
Just curious has anyone else had any problems with their throttle? Mine seems to be acting funny sometimes. Sometimes it will only go to 80% or so throttle and sometimes when I let off there is about 5% still being applied for a couple seconds. I have to reset the pedals in order to get it back right.

I adjusted the rod and spring pre load nuts on the throttle pedal when I was setting them up and had to adjust it a couple times to get full throttle and tonight loosened the screws on the sensor on the throttle pedal and I moved it a small amount back probably just a mm or so, like towards my foot, and re tightened it. I played for about an hour after that and it's working for now but I'll try it tomorrow for a couple hours and see what happens. I had all the same problems/things to do on my CSP V1's. Didn't know if anyone else was having any of the same issues. I might take the sensor off the clutch and swap it out to see it that's it or not.

I also thought the brake pedal travel was pretty short on the V2's as well as it being so sensitive and stiff. On my V1's everything was stock and I had the brake sensitivity turned as much as it would go. All the way to the right or 10 on the V2's. I started out with it on 10 on the V2's and 1200 oil. I had all the problems with wheel lockup like everyone else. I turned it down to 8 and that helped right much. Today I put in the 800 oil and have the sensor on 7 and it feels much better to me. I still need to get used to them, but I'm back running pretty close to the times I was running with the V1's. I used those for a year and the V2's for only 3 days now so I, like everyone else just needs to get used to them. I would like to upgrade the shock to something that's a bit better. The spring is so weak it doesn't even extend the shock all the way out if you compress it by hand.
 
MadRR
Just curious has anyone else had any problems with their throttle? Mine seems to be acting funny sometimes. Sometimes it will only go to 80% or so throttle and sometimes when I let off there is about 5% still being applied for a couple seconds. I have to reset the pedals in order to get it back right.

I adjusted the rod and spring pre load nuts on the throttle pedal when I was setting them up and had to adjust it a couple times to get full throttle and tonight loosened the screws on the sensor on the throttle pedal and I moved it a small amount back probably just a mm or so, like towards my foot, and re tightened it. I played for about an hour after that and it's working for now but I'll try it tomorrow for a couple hours and see what happens. I had all the same problems/things to do on my CSP V1's. Didn't know if anyone else was having any of the same issues. I might take the sensor off the clutch and swap it out to see it that's it or not.

I also thought the brake pedal travel was pretty short on the V2's as well as it being so sensitive and stiff. On my V1's everything was stock and I had the brake sensitivity turned as much as it would go. All the way to the right or 10 on the V2's. I started out with it on 10 on the V2's and 1200 oil. I had all the problems with wheel lockup like everyone else. I turned it down to 8 and that helped right much. Today I put in the 800 oil and have the sensor on 7 and it feels much better to me. I still need to get used to them, but I'm back running pretty close to the times I was running with the V1's. I used those for a year and the V2's for only 3 days now so I, like everyone else just needs to get used to them. I would like to upgrade the shock to something that's a bit better. The spring is so weak it doesn't even extend the shock all the way out if you compress it by hand.

The throttle pedal jumping or not going all the way up or down. I had that and I fixed it.

Just curious but do you have both USB and PS/2 cables attached and using either one at one time? Also do you have your CSP mounted on a metal plate? If so then what might have happened is that the unused cable's connector is touching the metal plate creating a electrical ground loop with the metal plate, through the mounting screws, through the CSP chassis into the PCB somehow. Either via the main PCB directly, or more likely since that is shielded; the load cell adjustment knob which is directly connected to the PCB and chassis.

Fix: just remove the second unused cable.

I did this yesterday and it worked for me. Had the issue for a while and sometimes it was and sometimes it was not there. The cable sometimes and sometimes not touching explains that erratic behavior.


Okay different way of looking at how a load cell works:

I assume you all have a headset or knob how a microphone works?

See the load cell as a microphone, the adjustment knob as the microphone amplifier knob. And your foot is your voice, and the pressure of your foot is the sound level of your voice. ie. the loudness of your voice is equal to the pressure of your foot. If you would raise your voice, then now you would have to raise the pressure of your foot.

That said. If you guys would set the amp all the way to the left, the microphone picks up very little of its surroundings. You would really have to shout off of the top of your lungs to let your voice be picked up.

So with the load cell... Knob to the left, you have to stand on the brake and apply max pressure to let the load cell pick up any of your input.

If you would turn the knob of your microphone amp up (clockwise (turn to the right)) then you will notice you have to shout less into your microphone before your microphone picks up your sound. And you tend to turn it up to a point where you can speak normally but do not have unwanted noises of the background picked up along with it.

Same again with the load cell. Turn the load cell amp up (clockwise (turn to the right)) then you will notice you have to apply less pressure before you have reached max input levels. You just have to keep turning it to the right until you are comfortable with giving max pressure at (depending on the strength of your foot). Also you do not want to turn it too far because it will react too heavy on the slightest pressure changes making it not precise (resulting in quick lock ups for example) as you end up at maximum load cell input too easily.
 
Richvw
You think too much, go get some sleep man :boggled:

I just woke up! Besides I find it mind boggling that nobody can figure out how it works by just playing with it. But yeah, I will shut up for now and just laugh while everyone is struggling to get something to work that they do not seem to understand the workings of. I would rather help though, but I guess it leaves more room for practice in iRacing and sorts.

Yes, I am a bit grumpy today. Sorry about that, woke up rather crappy today due to the neighbours dog which kept barking like a nutter. But seriously, for me this does not require any thinking at all and my brain is always occupied with other stuff. Usually alu hat stuff or pseudo scientific stuff as the seated order calls it, which nobody here cares about since it is a racing forum. ;)
 
Just curious has anyone else had any problems with their throttle? Mine seems to be acting funny sometimes. Sometimes it will only go to 80% or so throttle and sometimes when I let off there is about 5% still being applied for a couple seconds. I have to reset the pedals in order to get it back right.

I adjusted the rod and spring pre load nuts on the throttle pedal when I was setting them up and had to adjust it a couple times to get full throttle and tonight loosened the screws on the sensor on the throttle pedal and I moved it a small amount back probably just a mm or so, like towards my foot, and re tightened it. I played for about an hour after that and it's working for now but I'll try it tomorrow for a couple hours and see what happens. I had all the same problems/things to do on my CSP V1's. Didn't know if anyone else was having any of the same issues. I might take the sensor off the clutch and swap it out to see it that's it or not.

I also thought the brake pedal travel was pretty short on the V2's as well as it being so sensitive and stiff. On my V1's everything was stock and I had the brake sensitivity turned as much as it would go. All the way to the right or 10 on the V2's. I started out with it on 10 on the V2's and 1200 oil. I had all the problems with wheel lockup like everyone else. I turned it down to 8 and that helped right much. Today I put in the 800 oil and have the sensor on 7 and it feels much better to me. I still need to get used to them, but I'm back running pretty close to the times I was running with the V1's. I used those for a year and the V2's for only 3 days now so I, like everyone else just needs to get used to them. I would like to upgrade the shock to something that's a bit better. The spring is so weak it doesn't even extend the shock all the way out if you compress it by hand.

No problems with my throttle (that I can detect) here. I adjusted my throttle to give the spring more tension (the CSPV2 vid shows you how to do this).

Yes, I am also aware of the short brake pedal travel. 💡
I saw a vid somewhere where their is a rubber/foam(?) plug and steel plug in that little black box at the end of the brake pedal rod. I will have to search around if the rubber/foam plug can be replaced with an identical piece that is a bit softer? If the foam/rubber plug is softer it may allow a bit more travel in the brake pedal?
someone check me here if I am completely crazy...Monday morning and no caffeine ATM!
:crazy:


edit...and again, I must add my voice to the positive comments on the CSW! I am only using the default settings recommended in iRacing by the other testers/users and the wheel is simply amazing!!! If you can afford the CSW I would recommend the purchase.
 
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edit...and again, I must add my voice to the positive comments on the CSW! I am only using the default settings recommended in iRacing by the other testers/users and the wheel is simply amazing!!! If you can afford the CSW I would recommend the purchase.

mine will be delivered tomorrow! I cant wait.
 
CSW is very good, but I have two small nitpicks/questions. First, on my BMW rim, alcantara has not been put on very well. Seems or places where two parts come together, aren't where they should be. I don't care about bottom parts, but the top one is on my sight and it is not in the center, but about a cm to a left. So if I want to put something yellow on the top like real race cars or like other Fanatec wheels, this part will not be covered.

The question is, does anyone have a true 900 degrees? Wheel should be 90 degrees left or right to have 900 degrees, but it actually turns maybe 70 at the end.
 
LogiForce, I'm just using the one usb cable to power the v2's. I have a playseat evolution so actually yes they are mounted to a metal plate. I've looked for anything grounding out but I haven't seen anything. Just the 4 rubber feet are all that touches the metal mounting plate. I'll look over them again later and see if the problem with the throttle persist.

Thanks for explaining that about the load cell but there was no need. I understand how it works fully as I used csp v1's for a year. I didn't mean to sound like I didn't know how it worked because I do. I know that 10 is max sensitivity thus making the brake more sensitive and easier to lock up.

Patrocles, Yes there is a small metal shaft and piece of foam in the black box where the load cell goes. I was actually looking last night at the video on how to take the pedals apart to see if either of those could be swapped out to make the pedal travel further. I'm sure you could shorten one or the other and make the pedal travel longer, but I'm unsure if it would cause a dead zone in the brake because of it being a small gap before the metal shaft starts pushing on the load cell. Maybe someone else has tried it already.

I'm ready to get a CSW myself, but looks like I'll be waiting until september until they are back in stock. I have a CSR elite now and it's a good wheel, but I would like the extra features the CSW has especially since I just race on pc now.
 
LogiForce, I'm just using the one usb cable to power the v2's. I have a playseat evolution so actually yes they are mounted to a metal plate. I've looked for anything grounding out but I haven't seen anything. Just the 4 rubber feet are all that touches the metal mounting plate. I'll look over them again later and see if the problem with the throttle persist.

Thanks for explaining that about the load cell but there was no need. I understand how it works fully as I used csp v1's for a year. I didn't mean to sound like I didn't know how it worked because I do. I know that 10 is max sensitivity thus making the brake more sensitive and easier to lock up.

Patrocles, Yes there is a small metal shaft and piece of foam in the black box where the load cell goes. I was actually looking last night at the video on how to take the pedals apart to see if either of those could be swapped out to make the pedal travel further. I'm sure you could shorten one or the other and make the pedal travel longer, but I'm unsure if it would cause a dead zone in the brake because of it being a small gap before the metal shaft starts pushing on the load cell. Maybe someone else has tried it already.

I'm ready to get a CSW myself, but looks like I'll be waiting until september until they are back in stock. I have a CSR elite now and it's a good wheel, but I would like the extra features the CSW has especially since I just race on pc now.

OK, thanks! Perhaps the piece of foam can be replaced with a new piece of foam of the same dimensions (to avoid any deadzone from having a smaller gap from a shorter piece), but the new foam could be made out of a more compressible material?
 
I saw a vid somewhere where their is a rubber/foam(?) plug and steel plug in that little black box at the end of the brake pedal rod. I will have to search around if the rubber/foam plug can be replaced with an identical piece that is a bit softer? If the foam/rubber plug is softer it may allow a bit more travel in the brake pedal?

Thomas of Fanatec released a tutorial for the CSP V.1 pedals quite a while ago, it covers the foam slug and the steel rod. The video is available here on YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=54iQktxDQOM&list=UUFw-MIV-rIKZiMYHYy0MsTg&index=10&feature=plcp


The CSP V.1 Tuning Kit discontinued by Fanatec also included alternate stiffness foam slugs and metal rods of differing length. Thomas has stated that a CSP V.2 Tuning Kit will be released.

See this GTPlanet thread for in-depth info regarding the CSP V.1 tuning kit, some of its applicable to the construction of the V.2s for those 1st time owners of CSPs, good for reference: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=129773

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CSW is very good, but I have two small nitpicks/questions. First, on my BMW rim, alcantara has not been put on very well. Seems or places where two parts come together, aren't where they should be.

I noticed this as well on the BMW rim here I tested before it shipping out and commented about that on page 362 of this thread. in fact it seems as if the quality of the stitching and alcantara is inferior to the GT3 I have on hand and other GT2s & GT3s I have previously owned.
 
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MadRR
LogiForce, I'm just using the one usb cable to power the v2's. I have a playseat evolution so actually yes they are mounted to a metal plate. I've looked for anything grounding out but I haven't seen anything. Just the 4 rubber feet are all that touches the metal mounting plate. I'll look over them again later and see if the problem with the throttle persist.

Thanks for explaining that about the load cell but there was no need. I understand how it works fully as I used csp v1's for a year. I didn't mean to sound like I didn't know how it worked because I do. I know that 10 is max sensitivity thus making the brake more sensitive and easier to lock up.

With me the ground went up via the screw to the other side of the feet. Connecting to the frame, to which the potmeter of the load cell is connected. Which is wired back to the main PCB and thus creating a loop.

In your case there might be a ground feedback loop coming from somewhere else. I would suggest to put some nylon washer in between the mounting screws and the top of the feet. It should help at least a bit.

Sorry. Didn't know, I just read too many questions here regarding the load cells workings.

Hope you get your issues sorted.
 
Thomas of Fanatec released a tutorial for the CSP V.1 pedals quite a while ago, it covers the foam slug and the steel rod. The video is available here on YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=54iQktxDQOM&list=UUFw-MIV-rIKZiMYHYy0MsTg&index=10&feature=plcp


The CSP V.1 Tuning Kit discontinued by Fanatec also included alternate stiffness foam slugs and metal rods of differing length. Thomas has stated that a CSP V.2 Tuning Kit will be released.

See this GTPlanet thread for in-depth info regarding the CSP V.1 tuning kit, some of its applicable to the construction of the V.2s for those 1st time owners of CSPs, good for reference: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=129773

----------------------------------------

Sweet! Thanks for the info and the links!!
👍
 
What is an "issue" to you may not be an issue to everyone else. Each person has different levels of tolerance and different expectations for their consumer product purchases. For example, when we bought our Volvo XC60 there was a minor imperfection in the seams of the leather in the back seat, I could have brought it back to the dealer and demanded they replace the entire seat, but I accepted it as "not that bad." That doesn't mean the rest of the car has quality issues, but someone else who bought the same car might have made a huge deal about spending $50k a car and having an imperfection in the leather seam.

Besides, you are supposed to wear gloves with Alcantara anyways, makes it last MUCH longer when the oils and sweat from your hands isn't eating away the material.
That's obvious. IE the fanboys will seemingly forgive anything. You should have taken your car back. Paying more for something and accepting lower quality is idiotic at best.

Real racers don't wear gloves to protect the alcantara, they wear them to protect their hands from fire.
 
deloodrm
Btw.... the thing Fanatec uses is not a load cell
Its a pressure sensor ... different but does the job

Wrong!

A pressure sensor measures pressure indirectly via the expansion of liquid. A load cell measure pressure directly.

On the CSP a metal slug pressure directly against the sensor, thus it is a load cell.
 
Wrong!

A pressure sensor measures pressure indirectly via the expansion of liquid. A load cell measure pressure directly.

On the CSP a metal slug pressure directly against the sensor, thus it is a load cell.

Your right... I had my head screwed on wrong... lol

But its a different kind of load cell than you usualy see. Nothing wrong with it just different.

You teflon still holding up?
I wonder if a different seal might work or even fit.
 
:lol:True! (I hope there will be soon lighter - leather covered - and cheaper- rims)

Yes but I always drive with racing gloves. Gives me a more relaxed grip. It has some grip nobs on it so I can hold the wheel lighter. ANd in longer iracing races its a plus for me at least.
 
Yes but I always drive with racing gloves. Gives me a more relaxed grip. It has some grip nobs on it so I can hold the wheel lighter. ANd in longer iracing races its a plus for me at least.

You are true, also, my friend! It does give a better grip.

After buying the GT3RS wheel, I forced my self to wear gloves to protect my wheel. The funny thing is that after getting used to gloves (I wear only fingerless gloves) I feel unable to drive without them... (because of the grip and comfort they give)
In the summer time (reaches some times 43 gr.Celsius where I live) it really becomes an unpleasant thing to do.
 
That's obvious. IE the fanboys will seemingly forgive anything. You should have taken your car back. Paying more for something and accepting lower quality is idiotic at best.

Real racers don't wear gloves to protect the alcantara, they wear them to protect their hands from fire.

It is such a minor imperfection that I'm the only one who has noticed it. I'm not taking it back.

Anyways, yes, safety is the primary reason for gloves in race cars, but the secondary benefit is grip. Fire resistant/proof racing gloves provide MUCH better grip on an Alcantara or suede wheel. This, along with the extended life of the material is why SIM RACERS (which is what we are talking about here, a SIM RACING WHEEL!) should wear gloves while using it.
 
Well, I wear gloves in my cocpit for fire protection, because my sim rig has the ability to simulate ethanol fire, but we cant all be as cool as me! (sarcasm)
 
deloodrm
Your right... I had my head screwed on wrong... lol

But its a different kind of load cell than you usualy see. Nothing wrong with it just different.

You teflon still holding up?
I wonder if a different seal might work or even fit.

It still is. Just make sure the thread is absolutely dry before applying of course.
A different seal was talked about by FMW, Green Slime. But I don't have it, so I do not know if it works.
 
Just did "Logiforce Spring Mod" on my CSPv2.

image00001oo.jpg


I will try them out later this evening, but by hand the feeling is much better.

On his advice i also used some teflontape on the thread. Time will tell if it will hold up, but without it, my shock was already leaking.
 
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