Fanatec Announcements: CSW V2 Reviews Out

  • Thread starter Crispy
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@EVERYONE

I will post a video and give everyone details to what you need. I want to make sure the shock will mount correctly first. The top cap is shy of clearing, but I looked at some of the hardware we use to mount the shock on our buggy that should do the trick to use on the base. I want this to be a clean install before I make any recommendations for everyone interested to pull the trigger.

@Logi
Thanks! We are completely redesigning our sites and some of the testing may have killed some links. Thanks for the heads up :)
 
FMW
@EVERYONE

I will post a video and give everyone details to what you need. I want to make sure the shock will mount correctly first. The top cap is shy of clearing, but I looked at some of the hardware we use to mount the shock on our buggy that should do the trick to use on the base. I want this to be a clean install before I make any recommendations for everyone interested to pull the trigger.

@Logi
Thanks! We are completely redesigning our sites and some of the testing may have killed some links. Thanks for the heads up :)
Click to expand...

Keep us up to date. I would love to get my hands on your new damper asap. ;)
I am curious to see what difference it makes in terms of feel compared to the original.
 
OK, this will make me look like an idiot, but I do not care.
:crazy:

My Fanatec gear came but there are no step-by-step install guides. Is there a post a thread with such info to show the order of how to setup the gear? the quick guides mention an install guide pdf's available at Fanatec? I do not see them at the support page for any of my items. Will they be available in the near future?

silicone oil? do I need to add it to to something on or in the pedals? Or is this oil a reserve supply? if so, what oil is in the pedals?

I guess I am used to logitech items holding my hands through install processes.
:indiff:
 
Patrocles
OK, this will make me look like an idiot, but I do not care.
:crazy:

My Fanatec gear came but there are no step-by-step install guides. Is there a post a thread with such info to show the order of how to setup the gear? the quick guides mention an install guide pdf's available at Fanatec? I do not see them at the support page for any of my items. Will they be available in the near future?

silicone oil? do I need to add it to to something on or in the pedals? Or is this oil a reserve supply? if so, what oil is in the pedals?

I guess I am used to logitech items holding my hands through install processes.
:indiff:
Click to expand...

The CSP V2 pedals do not have oil in them. They do that for shipping reasons. You will have to add the oil and there is a video to show you how.

The printed manual they are referring to looks to not exist just yet.
 
Just imagine how I felt, Patrocles. I was the first or one of the first to get the pedals about 3.5 months ago now. There was really nothing on it. lol

I am so glad I have good genes. As I baby I would always take everything apart and put it back together. My dad got pissed though when I took apart his very expensive Philips Linear Turntable (same system used in Bang&Olufsen turntables back then).
So yeah, I just went at it by just observing everything and remaining calm and patient. It's not that hard.

Just make sure to remove any air bubbles when filling the shock. AIR DOES NOT COMPRESS WELL. You get a serious drop in dampening performance of the shock.

Also what I did to get the micro bubbles out is either wait, or just use it for a couple of races. Remove the shock and open the tiny lid, then remove the (now big) bubbles and repeat this untill no bubbles are present anymore. You might have to fill the shock up again a bit now and again when removing air from the cylinder(s).
 
FMW
The CSP V2 pedals do not have oil in them. They do that for shipping reasons. You will have to add the oil and there is a video to show you how.

The printed manual they are referring to looks to not exist just yet.
Click to expand...

oh my word! that explains a lot! Thank you!!
When I go to the Fanatec support page it only lists Clubsport pedals and the pedals in the vid are V1.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=54iQktxDQOM

Is there any specific priority/sequence on installing hardware or software? plug in hardware first or install software first?
do you update the CSW firmware before or after the drivers? does it matter?
thanks!
 
FMW
The CSP V2 pedals do not have oil in them. They do that for shipping reasons. You will have to add the oil and there is a video to show you how.

The printed manual they are referring to looks to not exist just yet.
Click to expand...

LogiForce
Just imagine how I felt, Patrocles. I was the first or one of the first to get the pedals about 3.5 months ago now. There was really nothing on it. lol

I am so glad I have good genes. As I baby I would always take everything apart and put it back together. My dad got pissed though when I took apart his very expensive Philips Linear Turntable (same system used in Bang&Olufsen turntables back then).
So yeah, I just went at it by just observing everything and remaining calm and patient. It's not that hard.

Just make sure to remove any air bubbles when filling the shock. AIR DOES NOT COMPRESS WELL. You get a serious drop in dampening performance of the shock.

Also what I did to get the micro bubbles out is either wait, or just use it for a couple of races. Remove the shock and open the tiny lid, then remove the (now big) bubbles and repeat this untill no bubbles are present anymore. You might have to fill the shock up again a bit now and again when removing air from the cylinder(s).
Click to expand...

OK, thanks for the info on the oil and the install tips.

I will take apart the tableclamp and see what is to be made of it!
:)
 
Cool, I got the clamp all sorted and the wheel installed. Too busy today to set everything up so I hope to have time over the weekend.
Thanks for all of the help!!
:)
 
museumsteve
I remembered what I did. I used 2 packs/strips of handle grip for the top section of the rim. I went from outside to the top (on both sides) and used black electrical tape to cover the join (top central). Then I got another pack which I split between the lower sections..but it was a cheaper one as I knew it wouldn't really get a lot of handling.
The main reason I did this was because a 'mate' gripped it so hard the alacantra started pulling away so I seemed a good solution to cover the issue. I liked the look and feel enough to do the whole wheel :)

picture.php
Click to expand...

I wrapped the CSRE exactly the same way (thanks!) and it's really improved the feel of the whole thing. I'm not sure what to do about the base of the rim, that large spoke is difficult to work around.
 
LogiForce
Just imagine how I felt, Patrocles. I was the first or one of the first to get the pedals about 3.5 months ago now. There was really nothing on it. lol

I am so glad I have good genes. As I baby I would always take everything apart and put it back together. My dad got pissed though when I took apart his very expensive Philips Linear Turntable (same system used in Bang&Olufsen turntables back then).
So yeah, I just went at it by just observing everything and remaining calm and patient. It's not that hard.

Just make sure to remove any air bubbles when filling the shock. AIR DOES NOT COMPRESS WELL. You get a serious drop in dampening performance of the shock.

Also what I did to get the micro bubbles out is either wait, or just use it for a couple of races. Remove the shock and open the tiny lid, then remove the (now big) bubbles and repeat this untill no bubbles are present anymore. You might have to fill the shock up again a bit now and again when removing air from the cylinder(s).
Click to expand...

not possible for me to not have million bubbles in there. already used ALL of my 1200 oil because I dont wanted to use the oil with million bubbles again after I changed first oil load after some races as you wrote here.. I have to live with the million bubbles which are actually in there because I dont have oil to re-change :D it seems in my chambers is always a lot of air... :(
 
Simracer92
not possible for me to not have million bubbles in there. already used ALL of my 1200 oil because I dont wanted to use the oil with million bubbles again after I changed first oil load after some races as you wrote here.. I have to live with the million bubbles which are actually in there because I dont have oil to re-change :D it seems in my chambers is always a lot of air... :(
Click to expand...

How the heck did you use that much oil? And I said ADD oil, not change it.
 
LogiForce
How the heck did you use that much oil? And I said ADD oil, not change it.
Click to expand...

yeah.. but I opened the chamber and wow there were hundrets of big bubbles and millions of mini bubbles inside.. I waited two hours if they will go away but they were still there.. so I decided to not use that oil again and completely changed the oil because only adding some oil would not blow away the bubbles.. but now the bubbles were also in the second oil load.. but I really filled the chamber completely with the oild so there was no room for some air.. little bit strange but yeah, I think I have to live with these bubbles now..^^
 
Simracer92
yeah.. but I opened the chamber and wow there were hundrets of big bubbles and millions of mini bubbles inside.. I waited two hours if they will go away but they were still there.. so I decided to not use that oil again and completely changed the oil because only adding some oil would not blow away the bubbles.. but now the bubbles were also in the second oil load.. but I really filled the chamber completely with the oild so there was no room for some air.. little bit strange but yeah, I think I have to live with these bubbles now..^^
Click to expand...

If you carefully Push the piston down, you will notice the micro bubbles will rise. Maybe you need to tap against the damper sometime to make a few bubbles let go of the wall.
Also I am sure it took me at least Double the time you waited for the bubbles to be removed.
 
drugstorecowboy
I wrapped the CSRE exactly the same way (thanks!) and it's really improved the feel of the whole thing. I'm not sure what to do about the base of the rim, that large spoke is difficult to work around.
Click to expand...

I know Fanatec frequents this thread.

Product refinement is a good thing for your customers, and builds good will toward the brand. :)

Some suggestions:

CSR:

1-Alternate rim wrap or refinement of alcantara patches could avoid mods like the one quoted being necessary to avoid materials separation from/on rim.

2-Joystick: A higher quality more robust joystick. (Afraid to use mine).

GT2/GT3:

Outfit them with the same wheel housing cover the CSR uses. 💡
The CSR seems to run much cooler than the GT2/GT3.

I am sure part of this can be attributed to the larger airflow vents and wire mesh grill that has bigger holes on the CSR wheel cover.

I have both the CSR and GT3, and have owned the GT2 as well.
The wheel cover housing's mounting points and ports' cutouts are identical.

Covers for the 3 products are already of different colors, so your product differentiation is maintained.
Consumers don't typically dwell on air vents and mesh designs.

Hell, I would even pay for an upgrade kit to improve the cooling on my GT2/GT3s, and for an anti-material separation rim kit on the CSR. :sly:

When I use my GT2/GT3 heat management is always lurking in the back of my mind, when I use my CSR I constantly check the seams. :scared:

CSR E:

Do not own one, but I have used one of initial production vintage for extended periods of time.

1) Joystick needs some tender loving care, CSW style.

2) If you cannot eliminate seams from the rim design, please refine it so they aren't as pronounced.

---------------------
:bowdown: :bowdown:
 
Last edited:
I've almost figured how to mount our Tamiya TRF 1/8 buggy shock on the the CSP V2's. The main issue I've had is the top shock cap as the hole sits lower than the included shock. This makes mounting it on the stock mount on the brake pedal challenging.
This morning I found a bracket that should do the trick...I hope to make this a very clean install. I don't like jerry rigged work. That's not my style. Sorry this is taken a while. I'm really methodical when building gear. It comes from my work related R/C endeavors. It takes me days to wire up new ESC's and radio gear to new test cars. LOL
Anyway, back to work...

BTW: My replacement BMW GT2 wheel rim arrived yesterday and this one works. :) The tech guys in Germany and the staff in the U.S. were quick to respond to my DOA rim and so far so good. Glad to see they're on top of things. It's made my very first FANATEC purchase and experience quite pleasant. This is the kind of thing that wins over customers 👍
 
Bah, now my shock started to leak as well. It seem the O-rings are not made for the torture of using these shocks for brake pedal use. They simply give way under compression. Especially when using a high oil pre-load.
 
OK, major problems getting my pedals recognized by my computer and the brake pedal has very little travel and is extremely hard to press (i move teh entire pedal set trying to depress brake).

I setup the pedals as directed in the CSPV2 video manual:
plugged pedals into the wheel as directed
fill reservoirs with oil (I used the 1200 silicon)
installed the CSPV2 drivers from the Fanatec Support page for Clubsport pedals
installed the CSW drivers from the Fanatec support page for Clubsport wheel

Started computer
turned on CSW and formula rim calibrated
when I open the Fanatec Wheel property page the CSW and formula rim are OK
the pedals are not recognized
any suggestions would be appreciated!
thanks in advance!
 
Have you tried to connect the pedals separately to your pc through USB? On pc it's recommended to power them straight through USB rather than through the wheel like on console.
 
MadRR
Have you tried to connect the pedals separately to your pc through USB? On pc it's recommended to power them straight through USB rather than through the wheel like on console.
Click to expand...

ahhh...No! I was following the video manual and it said to connect the pedals to the wheel.

I will try the USB! Thanks for the tip.

edit
OK! that did it! Thank you!! :)
Now I need to fix this incredibly insane stiff brake pedal!
 
Last edited:
Patrocles
ahhh...No! I was following the video manual and it said to connect the pedals to the wheel.

I will try the USB! Thanks for the tip.
Click to expand...

No problem, give that a try and see what happens. Just make sure you disconnect the cable from the wheel to pedals and only use the USB to power the pedals.

On a side note I just got my V2's this afternoon. Getting ready to hook them up here in a little bit :).
 
Patrocles. Uninstall all Fanatec drivers then reinstall just the one on the ClubSport Wheel page (Driver 132). There could be some conflict between the older and newer driver you installed. With older driver I refer to the one you installed off of the ClubSport Pedal page. Fanatec just uses one driver for all products, so just install the latest (which is on the CSW page).

Also do not connect PS/2 and USB at the same time!
 
MadRR
No problem, give that a try and see what happens. Just make sure you disconnect the cable from the wheel to pedals and only use the USB to power the pedals.

On a side note I just got my V2's this afternoon. Getting ready to hook them up here in a little bit :).
Click to expand...

it worked! you rawk!
:)
 
LogiForce
Patrocles. Uninstall all Fanatec drivers then reinstall just the one on the ClubSport Wheel page (Driver 132). There could be some conflict between the older and newer driver you installed. With older driver I refer to the one you installed off of the ClubSport Pedal page. Fanatec just uses one driver for all products, so just install the latest (which is on the CSW page).

Also do not connect PS/2 and USB at the same time!
Click to expand...

OK I will uninstall the driver and reinstall only teh 132
(I thought they were separate drivers; one for CSPV2 and one for CSW)
done!

I flashed the wheel to the 32/16 firmware. That proceeded well and I did not encounter any problems.

Wheel Centering:
I followed the directions in the video manual on how to center the wheel.
However, my wheel ends up turned to the right at about a 45degrees unlike the manual where the wheel returns to the 0 degree position! The wheel appears to be centered according to the Fanatec Wheel properties page so I guess all is well.


Brake pedal problem (CSPV2):
The pedal is very stiff and only travels a short distance.

I followed the directions in the Fanatec CSPV2 Tutorial (except for plugging them in by USB to computer) and used the 1200 silicone oil provided in kit.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ut9-BEnDWis
The pedals are recognized by the Fanatec Wheel Properties page. I can only press the brake pedal to about 75% level on the fanatec wheel property page (the gas and clutch pedals are fine).
The brake pedal spring preload is on it's weakest setting.

What else can I adjust to make the brake pedal less stiff? all i can think of is to remove the 1200 oil and try the 800 oil? Is the small brake pedal travel and stiffness normal for using the 1200 viscosity oil?

Thanks!
 
Last edited:
Patrocles
OK I will uninstall the driver and reinstall only teh 132
(I thought they were separate drivers; one for CSPV2 and one for CSW)
done!

I flashed the wheel to the 32/16 firmware. That proceeded well and I did not encounter any problems.

Wheel Centering:
I followed the directions in the video manual on how to center the wheel.
However, my wheel ends up turned to the right at about a 45degrees unlike the manual where the wheel returns to the 0 degree position! The wheel appears to be centered according to the Fanatec Wheel properties page so I guess all is well.

Brake pedal problem (CSPV2):
The pedal is very stiff and only travels a short distance.

I followed the directions in the Fanatec CSPV2 Tutorial (except for plugging them in by USB to computer) and used the 1200 silicone oil provided in kit.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ut9-BEnDWis
The pedals are recognized by the Fanatec Wheel Properties page. I can only press the brake pedal to about 75% level on the fanatec wheel property page (the gas and clutch pedals are fine).
The brake pedal spring preload is on it's weakest setting.
What else can I adjust to make the brake pedal less stiff? all i can think of is to remove the 1200 oil and try the 800 oil?
Thanks!
Click to expand...

Try removing the shock from the brake by removing the thumb screw and safety pin. See if you are able to depress it more.

Also what is your load cell knob setting?

Ps. the wheel centering after calibration is off since internal betal FW 31. Was fine until internal beta FW 29. Its no real issue though. So do not worry about it.
 
LogiForce
Try removing the shock from the brake by removing the thumb screw and safety pin. See if you are able to depress it more.

Also what is your load cell knob setting?

Ps. the wheel centering after calibration is off since internal betal FW 31. Was fine until internal beta FW 29. Its no real issue though. So do not worry about it.
Click to expand...

OK, I removed and reinstalled the shock. I think I may have had the thumbscrew on too tight. Even with the damper removed the pedal is still what I consider stiff and with little travel. It is a little better but not what I expected, but I may have to accept that this is normal.

I also now believe that the short amount of travel of the CSPV2 brake pedal is normal (guesstimate using my ruler that the top of pedal travels down about 1cm on the CSPV2 and about 2.5-3cm on the G27 brake pedal)? I am used to the G27 brake pedal which has about twic the travel distance. It would seem odd to me to have such a short brake pedal travel distance because it may make the brakes more sensitive.

I will go to iRacing and calibrate everything and see how the wheel and pedals work.

Thanks for all the help!
 
What you can do is remove a tiny bit of oil (just put it back in the bottle). This will reduce the damper pre-load.
By pushing down the shock piston rod a bit untill the oil is just below the screw thread of the little lid you can see how much pre-load there is.
Pre-load being the point where the damping will kick in.

I think this will improve pedal travel a bit. ;)

Oh, I wasn't clear about my last post. But I wanted you to check the travel without the shock installed.
 

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