Fanatec Announcements: CSW V2 Reviews Out

[Patrocles]

What you can do is remove a tiny bit of oil (just put it back in the bottle). This will reduce the damper pre-load.
By pushing down the shock piston rod a bit untill the oil is just below the screw thread of the little lid you can see how much pre-load there is.
Pre-load being the point where the damping will kick in.

I think this will improve pedal travel a bit.

Oh, I wasn't clear about my last post. But I wanted you to check the travel without the shock installed.

Very well. I will try and reduce the damper preload as you suggest on Saturday.

D'oh, I did not measure the travel of the brake pedal without the damper attached, but the pedal was still stiff (imho) and did not travel far. I will check it tomorrow (saturday).

I also went and order a Bodnar cable. It allows the G27 pedals to be used as stand-alone and with any wheel. I may fall back on these pedals if I cannot adjut to the CSPV2s.

Even with teh brake problems, I must say I love the CSW and formula rim!!

thank you again for your help!

 

[LogiForce]

Very well. I will try and reduce the damper preload as you suggest on Saturday.

D'oh, I did not measure the travel of the brake pedal without the damper attached, but the pedal was still stiff (imho) and did not travel far. I will check it tomorrow (saturday).

I also went and order a Bodnar cable. It allows the G27 pedals to be used as stand-alone and with any wheel. I may fall back on these pedals if I cannot adjut to the CSPV2s.

Even with teh brake problems, I must say I love the CSW and formula rim!!

thank you again for your help!

Alright, if the brake travel is still too little for you without the shock you can do the following.

On the brake lever there is a hinge point just below the vibration motor. Remove the rod that is in there (alan screw on the under side) and then move it all down a hole. This should increase the travel for sure.

 

[Simracer92]

Alright, if the brake travel is still too little for you without the shock you can do the following.

On the brake lever there is a hinge point just below the vibration motor. Remove the rod that is in there (alan screw on the under side) and then move it all down a hole. This should increase the travel for sure.

tried the same a few days ago but when moving the rod into hole 1 it is impossible to get brake level over 70 percent.. so the new csp v2 can only be used in second hole I think...

 

[skazz]

Patrocles, the whole point of Clubsport brake is that you are braking based on pedal pressure through the load cell, not based on distance of travel.

It sounds to me like you have the load cell set to 10, trying setting it lower, but also try just playing with the pedal with a calibration screen (GT5 or PC drivers), the idea is to tweak the load cell pressure so that maximum force on the cell is the amount of pressure you want, and you just teach your foot to apply pressure instead of braking based on foot travel.

For me, learning to use the load cell was a lot easier with ABS set at 75-80, which is about right for locking the brakes in many sims. When you feel the vibration of the ABS motor under the pedal you have a cue as to how much pressure you are applying.

 

[the_greeze]

Bah, now my shock started to leak as well. It seem the O-rings are not made for the torture of using these shocks for brake pedal use. They simply give way under compression. Especially when using a high oil pre-load.

Is that the stock damper leaking? You only changed the spring IIRC? Or have you changed dampers too?

 

[Roush_fan_99]

Alright, if the brake travel is still too little for you without the shock you can do the following.

On the brake lever there is a hinge point just below the vibration motor. Remove the rod that is in there (alan screw on the under side) and then move it all down a hole. This should increase the travel for sure.

Thank you, I was wondering the same thing, I'm used to the DFGT pedal so I have trained my self by pedal distance. I sit at an office chair with my wheel mounted to a computer desk, So far I have flipped the angle spacer up side down to match my foot position better and at the same time moved the clutch and brake down a hole (which helped a lot more than I expected ), and I've tightened the pre-load of the throttle and clutch springs.

So a couple of minor issues that I've noticed is that the brake is so stiff that I can only get about 70% brake before my desk starts to move closer to the TV and I have to pull on my DFGT to keep the desk from moving farther away from me I hope that'll soon be fixed with maybe a GranStand Cockpit but in the mean time it's quite annoying and funny.

Also, my pedals are just slightly wobbly (mostly noticeable when I transition from clutch to throttle. I have temporarily fixed the problem with tape on the bottom of the desk underneath the pedals' rubber pads. It's not cross left-front to right-rear but more front to back when the back of the pedal set comes up and the front goes down. Is there an Adjustment for that?

And about the ABS feature, I don't currently have a Fanatec Wheel so I can't adjust the pedal vibration feature(currently non-functional). Is there some sort of program that I can use(PC) to fix that?

To finish the last week of the iRacing season I switched back to my DFGT pedals and I went to press the brake and I just SLAMMED it, it felt like there was nothing there I'll be back on my CSP for Week 13 on tuesday

 

[deloodrm]

Bah, now my shock started to leak as well. It seem the O-rings are not made for the torture of using these shocks for brake pedal use. They simply give way under compression. Especially when using a high oil pre-load.

Yes have it too.

I wonder if teflon tape would work on he threads to seal it up.

 

[redmalloc]

And about the ABS feature, I don't currently have a Fanatec Wheel so I can't adjust the pedal vibration feature(currently non-functional). Is there some sort of program that I can use(PC) to fix that?

There is a utility for iRacing that provides pedal vibration on wheel lockup based on telemetry. Search the forum

 

[LogiForce]

Is that the stock damper leaking? You only changed the spring IIRC? Or have you changed dampers too?

It is the stock damper leaking. I mailed with FMV a bit and he says it is the oil that is incompatible with the o-rings. Once the oil leaks onto the o-ring the ring becomes soft and swells/expands.

Thank you, I was wondering the same thing, I'm used to the DFGT pedal so I have trained my self by pedal distance. I sit at an office chair with my wheel mounted to a computer desk, So far I have flipped the angle spacer up side down to match my foot position better and at the same time moved the clutch and brake down a hole (which helped a lot more than I expected ), and I've tightened the pre-load of the throttle and clutch springs.

So a couple of minor issues that I've noticed is that the brake is so stiff that I can only get about 70% brake before my desk starts to move closer to the TV and I have to pull on my DFGT to keep the desk from moving farther away from me I hope that'll soon be fixed with maybe a GranStand Cockpit but in the mean time it's quite annoying and funny.

Also, my pedals are just slightly wobbly (mostly noticeable when I transition from clutch to throttle. I have temporarily fixed the problem with tape on the bottom of the desk underneath the pedals' rubber pads. It's not cross left-front to right-rear but more front to back when the back of the pedal set comes up and the front goes down. Is there an Adjustment for that?

And about the ABS feature, I don't currently have a Fanatec Wheel so I can't adjust the pedal vibration feature(currently non-functional). Is there some sort of program that I can use(PC) to fix that?

To finish the last week of the iRacing season I switched back to my DFGT pedals and I went to press the brake and I just SLAMMED it, it felt like there was nothing there I'll be back on my CSP for Week 13 on tuesday

First of all, if you bought the CSP for travel braking you bought the wrong pedals. Please look at Skazz his post above. you might want to set the dial behind the brake differently, so you do not have to press as hard as you do now.

Also I stand correct on lowering that rod a notch by fellow beta tester simracer92. This will result in not being able to brake further then 3/4 ish of the stopping power.

tried the same a few days ago but when moving the rod into hole 1 it is impossible to get brake level over 70 percent.. so the new csp v2 can only be used in second hole I think...

For the pedal wobble issue, please look at around 8:13 in the following video about servicing the original CSP.



For ABS:

Iracing:
ABS brake vibration: http://members.iracing.com/jforum/posts/list/1477397.page
Motion view cockpit (with the above build in): http://members.iracing.com/jforum/posts/list/22806.page

Other games:
Fanaleds: http://fanaleds.idrift.nl/

Hope this helped.

Yes have it too.

I wonder if teflon tape would work on he threads to seal it up.

Have not tried it yet.

 

[Patrocles]

tried the same a few days ago but when moving the rod into hole 1 it is impossible to get brake level over 70 percent.. so the new csp v2 can only be used in second hole I think...

oh well, I will still give this a try later today/tonight on the CSPV2s

Patrocles, the whole point of Clubsport brake is that you are braking based on pedal pressure through the load cell, not based on distance of travel.

It sounds to me like you have the load cell set to 10, trying setting it lower, but also try just playing with the pedal with a calibration screen (GT5 or PC drivers), the idea is to tweak the load cell pressure so that maximum force on the cell is the amount of pressure you want, and you just teach your foot to apply pressure instead of braking based on foot travel.

For me, learning to use the load cell was a lot easier with ABS set at 75-80, which is about right for locking the brakes in many sims. When you feel the vibration of the ABS motor under the pedal you have a cue as to how much pressure you are applying.

OK, thanks for the tips. I expected the brakes to be more similar to my real cars - a little more pedal travel and applying pressure is necessary, but not so much that I have to literally stand on the CSPV2 brake pedal.

 

[LogiForce]

Hrm, different oil does not matter with the o-rings on this shock. I will try teflon now.

Update:

Initial test by hand: teflon seems to hold up so far. Will test more on the rig after dinner.

 

[JogoAsobi]

Delete, posted in oversight, already addressed by LogiForce:

For the pedal wobble issue, please look at around 8:13 in the following video about servicing the original CSP.

 

[RReed43]

oh well, I will still give this a try later today/tonight on the CSPV2s



OK, thanks for the tips. I expected the brakes to be more similar to my real cars - a little more pedal travel and applying pressure is necessary, but not so much that I have to literally stand on the CSPV2 brake pedal.

You shouldn't have to "stand on the breaks" to stop. You either have the control dial set too low or there is something wrong with the pedals.

Start with the dial full clockwise, 10 on the dial, the breaking should be quite light. Then adjust to taste. I have mine on 6. It feels very much like the breaks on a real car with power brakes.

 

[mthor]

Hello
If anyone could offer advice on the following i'd appreciate it!
Just got the csw and cspv2's but im having trouble getting the pedals to work.

i'm trying this with pc(iracing) and ps3 (gt5)
In gt5,with the pedals connected to the csw (ps2 only) they are not recognised at all, wheel works fine.

On the pc when again connected through the ps2 connection only they are not recognised, but they do work when connected through usb straight to the pc.

i have installed(uninstalled and reinstalled) the latest firmware and driver but no joy.
This is my first time with a fanatec wheel so i'm probably missing something silly

Thanks,Mark.

 

[LogiForce]

Update on the Teflon tape:

I applied some teflon tap to the cap threads and it seems to hold up so far after a few races. No leaks yet or any expanding o-rings.
So for now it wouldn't hurt to try putting teflon tape to use on the shock, it will stop any leaks from happening.


@mthor:
Do they work on USB at all when hooked up to the PC? (unplug the PS/2 cable before plugging in USB).
Also double check if there are no wires that are pinched or stuck somewhere, and double check the connections. Also silly thing, but I hope you have the cable in the right connector on the CSW?

 

[Roush_fan_99]

Thanks guys, i know they aren't for distance, I suppose I just need to get used to them

 

[mthor]

Update on the Teflon tape:
@mthor:
Do they work on USB at all when hooked up to the PC? (unplug the PS/2 cable before plugging in USB).
Also double check if there are no wires that are pinched or stuck somewhere, and double check the connections. Also silly thing, but I hope you have the cable in the right connector on the CSW?

Yes they work fine when connected straight to the pc through usb.
When using the "fanatec wheel property page" programme on the pc i get 2 options, clubsport wheel and clubsport pedals option.

using the clubsport wheel option, there is a wheel and pedal graph.the wheel graph is perfect but the pedal graph is unresponsive apart from the clutch part being 50% blue.This is the same when pedals are connected to the csw and then to the pc.

using the clubsport pedal option everything works 100%.there is no clubsport pedal option in the "fanatec wheel property page" programme when pedals are connected through the csw and then to the pc.

i guess is need to get a different ps2 cable and try it, thats the only thing i can imagine being wrong.
Yep the cables are in the right connections and they look fine/undamaged,and i only ever have 1 cable coming from the pedals!

 

[LogiForce]

Yes they work fine when connected straight to the pc through usb.
When using the "fanatec wheel property page" programme on the pc i get 2 options, clubsport wheel and clubsport pedals option.

using the clubsport wheel option, there is a wheel and pedal graph.the wheel graph is perfect but the pedal graph is unresponsive apart from the clutch part being 50% blue.

using the clubsport pedal option everything works 100%.

i guess is need to get a different ps2 cable and try it, thats the only thing i can imagine being wrong.
Yep the cables are in the right connections and they look fine/undamaged

Which driver are you using? The pedal bars should all be at 0% at all times. Only old drivers have the 50% issue.

Maybe you can also try a different adapter? You got two in the package if all is well. Of course if one of these items seems to be damaged at the end of the diagnosis you will have to contact Fanatec to replace them under warranty.

 

[mthor]

I installed the new firmware for the csw (initally i tried all the previous solutions on the shipped fw/driver) on startup the wheel indicates 032 then 16.i also installed the csw driver " CSW Driver64 132 (5.7 MB)"

i tried to install the csp driver "Driver PW64 115 (4.8 MB)" but it said i had a newer version.(i presumed it was integrated into the csw?)
yeah i tried both adapters too, i'll go hunt for a ps2 cable monday,hopefullythat solves it

 

[LogiForce]

I installed the new firmware for the csw (initally i tried all the previous solutions on the shipped fw/driver) on startup the wheel indicates 032 then 16.i also installed the csw driver " CSW Driver64 132 (5.7 MB)"

i tried to install the csp driver "Driver PW64 115 (4.8 MB)" but it said i had a newer version.(i presumed it was integrated into the csw?)
yeah i tried both adapters too, i'll go hunt for a ps2 cable monday,hopefullythat solves it

Fanatec uses a unified driver. Meaning all their products are supported through one driver. So yes, driver 132 is the latest. Also when installing a new Fanatec driver, always uninstall the old one first to avoid any issues by old files and stuff interfering with the new ones.

I hope that will fix the issues. Else just contact fanatec support. I am sure they can help better then I can.

 

[Patrocles]

You shouldn't have to "stand on the breaks" to stop. You either have the control dial set too low or there is something wrong with the pedals.

Start with the dial full clockwise, 10 on the dial, the breaking should be quite light. Then adjust to taste. I have mine on 6. It feels very much like the breaks on a real car with power brakes.

Yeah, that is what I am trying to say. I expected the CSPV2 brake action to be similar to a actual car/truck (not a racing vehicle). However, as mentioned above the brake pedal travel is much shorter than a real car and the pedal is much stiffer.

Yes, the dial is at 10 on default (at least the setting my pedal came with).

Then I am planning to do the following to tnhe pedals:
Replace the damper oil with the the lower viscosity 800 oil (making sure that the oil dampers are not overfilled))
Lower the position of the damper on the brake pedal (though this may not allow full brake action according to post above)
Turn down the dial to reduce the pressure needed for lockups (I believe this is the action of the device, yes?).

 

[RReed43]

I believe the full clockwise position (10) maximizes the signal from the load cell and therefore makes the brake it's most responsive. You turn it down to require harder pressure for a given brake response. Since Fanatec doesn't publish much on the pedals I may be wrong but that is the way it feels to me.

 

[LogiForce]

RReed43 is correct. 10 is maximum sensitivity.

Look at the load cell as your skin. The more sensitive your skin is, the earlier you will reach maximum sensitivity. At that maximum or beyond lies you will experience pain, since your skin tells your brain maximum load has been reached for that patch of skin.
Now if you look at the knob as levels of sunburn; the more burned your skin is due to the sun, the more sensitive it becomes.

How is that for explaining something technical in a simple way for everyone to understand?

 

[Richvw]

Further clockwise, less pressure required to lock up brakes, simples 👍

 

[LogiForce]

Oh and to you guys that think 1200 is too stiff, I just pit in 1500 oil which I bought at the store today.

Things to look out for when working on a shock:

1. Remove as much air as possible
2. Use Teflon tape to stop any leaking as the o-rings can not take all of the pressure.
3. Make sure you have (almost) maximum oil pre-load. Achieve this by moving the piston up to a favorable position and then fill oil till edge of the screw thread in the little cylinder. If the pre-load is too low you won't feel any dampening effect, but only the springs that is on the shock, since you won't depress the damper entirely because you hit the load cell at almost full force instead.
5. Do not change the preload of the shock spring when it is mounted on your pedals. You can end up unscrewing the main cylinder cap, thus letting the fluid run out by accident.

 

[blacbul67]

OK, thanks for the tips. I expected the brakes to be more similar to my real cars - a little more pedal travel and applying pressure is necessary, but not so much that I have to literally stand on the CSPV2 brake pedal.

Bear with it, I initially felt the same with the original clubsport pedals and I reduced the throw, it felt stupidly stiff, but I can honestly say having subsequently tried it in the default longer throw position I prefer the stiffer position

 

[Roush_fan_99]

@ LogiForce, you said to move the piston to a favorable position before filling it, aren't you supposed to push the shaft all the way in before you fill the small chamber?
I made the stupid mistake of leaving the spring on when I unscrewed the small cap to fill it back up after getting rid of bubbles and then I went to push on the shaft and it blew both seals, but luckily it wasn't too big of a mess and I just loosened then up and stuffed the O-rings back in place, tightened it back up and fill the small chamber again
My point is that if you don't push the rod all the way in before topping off the oil, wouldn't that put more stress on the O-Rings or am I overthinking it, or maybe a little air?

And if I moved the pedal rod down to the first whole and set my sensitivity lower, I could get full braking power, correct? Or am I backwards with the sensitivity?

I'll experiment this week maybe

 

[deloodrm]

I would watch out with teflon. I tried it and it just desintegrated when in contact with the oil. Now what?

 

[Patrocles]

I believe the full clockwise position (10) maximizes the signal from the load cell and therefore makes the brake it's most responsive. You turn it down to require harder pressure for a given brake response. Since Fanatec doesn't publish much on the pedals I may be wrong but that is the way it feels to me.

RReed43 is correct. 10 is maximum sensitivity.

Look at the load cell as your skin. The more sensitive your skin is, the earlier you will reach maximum sensitivity. At that maximum or beyond lies you will experience pain, since your skin tells your brain maximum load has been reached for that patch of skin.
Now if you look at the knob as levels of sunburn; the more burned your skin is due to the sun, the more sensitive it becomes.

How is that for explaining something technical in a simple way for everyone to understand?

Further clockwise, less pressure required to lock up brakes, simples 👍

Bear with it, I initially felt the same with the original clubsport pedals and I reduced the throw, it felt stupidly stiff, but I can honestly say having subsequently tried it in the default longer throw position I prefer the stiffer position

ok, turning down the dial helped a lot on reducing the lockups! thanks a ton, guys!

Yes, blacbul67, since the brakes are not locking up so easily after turning down the load cell sensitivity I have decided to try and bear with it and not make any changes. I have entered a few races and the CSW/CSPV2 are not making me any slower and I am slowing getting used to the new hardware.

I must restate that the wheel is simply awesome!! So far I have only used the Fanatec wheel and pedals in iRacing. I am not any faster on laps, but looking at my laptimes I am much more consistent and I find the cars slightly easier to handle (my feeling is that the wheel allows me to be more precise in where I put the car). The hardware really makes the game 10 times more enjoyable over my G27 (and that is a good wheel, too!). Fanatec did well with this hardware!!

 

[RReed43]

I'm glad you got the brakes adjusted so they work for you. I expect as you get used to the feel that you will find your braking gets more precise and controllable.

Regarding the wheel, I moved from the G27 to the CSR-E wheel and experienced the increase in precision and control.