Fanatec Announcements: CSW V2 Reviews Out

  • Thread starter Crispy
  • 13,388 comments
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Thanks for the reply guys. I only have the movement with the BMW rim. The formula rim fits secure so maybe a new spring will solve my issue. I can tell a difference in spring tension between the 2 rims. It is kinda disappointing to have a quick release that isnt so quick though.
 
Carson79
Yet another motor in my CSW has started to die.
Take's the count now to six! Five replacements and one returned for repair. That turned out well.......
As pointed out to me by another member before the holidays, If Fanatec know they had a bad batch of motors why are they only replacing one of them in your CSW base instead of them both?
This CSW has not been used more than a couple of hours at the very most since it was "repaired" My new gloves came and I brought it out again.
How can one person have so many bloody motors fail on them, this was getting out of hand after number three!
GRRRRRRRRRRRRRR!!!!!!!!
Click to expand...

Carson79, can you post your wheel settings? I suspect that settings with FFB over 150 should force the motor to die. I started to smell burned smell on my base after raising the FFB to 200. After this, I backed the FFB to 100, but my Wheel gradually was lost strength until my FFB motor die.
 
wmsbill
Carson79, can you post your wheel settings? I suspect that settings with FFB over 150 should force the motor to die. I started to smell burned smell on my base after raising the FFB to 200. After this, I backed the FFB to 100, but my Wheel gradually was lost strength until my FFB motor die.
Click to expand...

Mine are 200. But that shouldn't kill the motor as it's only half of what it can be used at. These settings are there for us to choose which best suits us, not which best suits motor life span. The motors are the problem not the settings :)
 
I have a question for those using the CSP V2 pedals and Fanatec wheel.

My CSP V2s are not recognized by my PC when I plug them into the FAnatec wheel and then have the wheel plugged into the PC (the wheel is recognized). This is not a big problem since I can plug the pedals directly into the PC and they work fine.

I have not tried to use my Fanatec pedals and wheel on a PS3. Can you plug the pedals directly into the PS3 and have them recognized by GT5 and other games?

thanks in advance.
:)
 
Patrocles
I have a question for those using the CSP V2 pedals and Fanatec wheel.

My CSP V2s are not recognized by my PC when I plug them into the FAnatec wheel and then have the wheel plugged into the PC (the wheel is recognized). This is not a big problem since I can plug the pedals directly into the PC and they work fine.

I have not tried to use my Fanatec pedals and wheel on a PS3. Can you plug the pedals directly into the PS3 and have them recognized by GT5 and other games?

thanks in advance.
:)
Click to expand...

No you can't mate
 
In regards to play in the QR system, I had the same problem and found the solution...

medium


In the picture above you can see the male end of the QR system inside the there are 5 hex screws. THESE MUST BE TIGHT! They will loosen over time. I have no idea why this fixed my problem, but when I tightened them I noticed an immediate difference.

Some wheels simply have some play due to the bearings and grooves not aligning. If this is the cause of the problem there is not much you can do besides inserting the pin.
 
paskowitz
In regards to play in the QR system, I had the same problem and found the solution...

medium


In the picture above you can see the male end of the QR system inside the there are 5 hex screws. THESE MUST BE TIGHT! They will loosen over time. I have no idea why this fixed my problem, but when I tightened them I noticed an immediate difference.

Some wheels simply have some play due to the bearings and grooves not aligning. If this is the cause of the problem there is not much you can do besides inserting the pin.
Click to expand...

I remembered reading that in your review and it was the first thing I tried 👍
 
Carson79
Mine are 200. But that shouldn't kill the motor as it's only half of what it can be used at. These settings are there for us to choose which best suits us, not which best suits motor life span. The motors are the problem not the settings :)
Click to expand...

Well it depends was the 200 setting used in design testing of the wheel. Or did they release it afterwards to try to overcome the inertia of BMW wheel?(to make it competitive in speed compared to t500 and CSR elite)
Usually 1st gen things suck. There has been numerous revision also to t500 and I am sure that the CSW will get improved too.
 
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Raitziger
Well it depends was the 200 setting used in design testing of the wheel. Or did they release it afterwards to try to overcome the inertia of BMW wheel?(to make it competitive in speed compared to t500 and CSR elite)
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If it wasn't intended to be used at any setting higher than x then it shouldn't have the option to change the settings higher than the value of x :crazy:
Thomas has already said there was a problem with a batch of motors with a high failure rate anyway so this is really not the issue
 
Carson79
If it wasn't intended to be used at any setting higher than x then it shouldn't have the option to change the settings higher than the value of x :crazy:
Thomas has already said there was a problem with a batch of motors with a high failure rate anyway so this is really not the issue
Click to expand...

Well there are four possible outcomes,

1)Thomas calls me out bullying Fanatec and keeps sending new wheels hoping motors to start to last.

2)There will be new firmware released with mysteriously reducing FFB although 200 setting remains.

3)Recall! there is problem detected with AC/DC converter power quality, motors were fine.

4)Total recall. Arnold takes over the company from Thomas and moves production to Mars.
 
Last edited:
Raitziger
Well there are four possible outcomes,

1)Thomas calls me out bullying Fanatec and keeps sending new wheels hoping motors to start to last.

2)There will be new firmware released with mysteriously reducing FFB although 200 setting remains.

3)Recall! there is problem detected with AC/DC converter power quality, motors were fine.

4)Total recall. Arnold takes over the company from Thomas and moves production to Mars.
Click to expand...

In my case, the problem with my motor occurred AFTER the problem with my PSU. I think this is a problem with the PSU, that don't give enough juice to maintain FFB on high values, damaging the motors. This is my suspect
 
wmsbill
In my case, the problem with my motor occurred AFTER the problem with my PSU. I think this is a problem with the PSU, that don't give enough juice to maintain FFB on high values, damaging the motors. This is my suspect
Click to expand...

That could be a factor only if the voltage sag is significant. You can measure it! On my one motor CSR with the 24V / 2.5 amp PSU I measure 24.0 volts at "idle". At full FFB intensity I can get dips to about 23.4 volts for about ½ second or so, averaged. This is with a stable, steady AC feed. Hot motors and circuits drop the FFB torque too. DC motor torque output is proportional to amperare, and at the wheel the various belt ratios, inertias, and frictions must be considered.

It was easy to measure the droop. With the cover off I simply stuck pins into the internal wiring at the power port and then clipped my multimeter to those. When the pins are removed, the vinyl insulation self heals so no worries.
 
RacerXX, did you measure with a voltmeter or an oscilloscope? Edit: Nevermind, you said voltmeter...

Not suggesting you did anything wrong, I was just curious. I had thought of doing the same thing with my 'scope for the heck of it. Unfortunately, I don't have access to either an Elite, CSW or this guy's supply to test it. :(
 
mrbasher
RacerXX, did you measure with a voltmeter or an oscilloscope? Edit: Nevermind, you said voltmeter...

Not suggesting you did anything wrong, I was just curious. I had thought of doing the same thing with my 'scope for the heck of it. Unfortunately, I don't have access to either an Elite, CSW or this guy's supply to test it. :(
Click to expand...

Just a DVM for the moment. I'll datalog it sometime @ 100 Hz to make a pretty graph. These motors stall out and would like more current if they could survive it. If you add a higher current supply they will eat that up too. The drive mosfets just pass on the supplied DC less their own losses, taxes, and fees.

I have a constant current / constant voltage lab power supply to toy with for some voltage mods. It adjusts from 0 - lightning and 0 - thunder with basically ripple (ripple heats up motor coils = bad). So I can set that to mimic stock and then voltage droop past 2.5 amps or independently turn up volts and/or amps until something breaks, complains, or overheats.

It would be nice to have some spare parts. Mosfets and belts are easy, the motor somewhat harder for a direct drop-in. However there are some inexpensive readily available alternate motor options that are stronger than the T500rs lump along with belt and belt ratio options. They'll need some DIY tweaks though.
 
It might be worth a look at the datasheet for the motor to see what amp rating it can handle, though you'll probably have to do some maths since finding a datasheet for THAT motor has proved difficult, only the generic RS555PH datasheet. The windings, etc are easy since they are right on the motor.

Once you find the amp rating you can use some chopping or pwm to keep the amps within line when you overvolt the motor.
 
Raitziger
Well there are four possible outcomes,

1)Thomas calls me out bullying Fanatec and keeps sending new wheels hoping motors to start to last.

2)There will be new firmware released with mysteriously reducing FFB although 200 setting remains.

3)Recall! there is problem detected with AC/DC converter power quality, motors were fine.

4)Total recall. Arnold takes over the company from Thomas and moves production to Mars.
Click to expand...

mrbasher
LOL :)

Sorry, that's all I had to add. :)
Click to expand...

Just listen to this 2009 video and it looks like Arnold took over Fanatec years ago :D LOL :D

http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=54iQktxDQOM&desktop_uri=/watch?v=54iQktxDQOM&gl=NL
 
Patrocles
I have a question for those using the CSP V2 pedals and Fanatec wheel.

My CSP V2s are not recognized by my PC when I plug them into the FAnatec wheel and then have the wheel plugged into the PC (the wheel is recognized). This is not a big problem since I can plug the pedals directly into the PC and they work fine.

I have not tried to use my Fanatec pedals and wheel on a PS3. Can you plug the pedals directly into the PS3 and have them recognized by GT5 and other games?

thanks in advance.
:)
Click to expand...

You probably have a bad PS2 cable. Those cables are notorious for going bad or even not working when new. Try to get another one, but make sure it passes all wires through to all pins. Some PS2 cables were designed for specific purposes and don't have all the wires so wouldn't work as a replacement.

Since the pedals are still under warranty, you could try to get a replacement cable from Fanatec Customer Support. Just show a video of the pedals working when directly connected to PC and how they don't work when connected to the wheel.
 
Troysloth
You probably have a bad PS2 cable. Those cables are notorious for going bad or even not working when new. Try to get another one, but make sure it passes all wires through to all pins. Some PS2 cables were designed for specific purposes and don't have all the wires so wouldn't work as a replacement.

Since the pedals are still under warranty, you could try to get a replacement cable from Fanatec Customer Support. Just show a video of the pedals working when directly connected to PC and how they don't work when connected to the wheel.
Click to expand...

mrbasher
That's good advice by Troysloth.

These guys have black PS2 cables that I know work: http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_174772_-1

Might save you $15 to $17 on shipping from Fanatec, unless they will send a new one for free.
Click to expand...

Oh, duh! I'm so stoopid I did not even think it could be the cable! :dunce:

thanks for the information and link, guys!
👍
 
For those guys with the motor outage issues. I had the same issue tonight (and probably for some time now without ever realising it).

The issue with me was that the solder joint of one of the motor poles got loose, but was held in place somewhat still by the heat-shrinking tube. I fixed it myself though I recommend Thomas looking at this issue, as it might be another reason (apart from a bad batch of motors) for the highly frequent issues on powerloss.
 
LogiForce
For those guys with the motor outage issues. I had the same issue tonight (and probably for some time now without ever realising it).

The issue with me was that the solder joint of one of the motor poles got loose, but was held in place somewhat still by the heat-shrinking tube. I fixed it myself though I recommend Thomas looking at this issue, as it might be another reason (apart from a bad batch of motors) for the highly frequent issues on powerloss.
Click to expand...

Yes, agree. When I "gaged up" the wiring in a CSR I noticed that the wires from the circuit board to the motor were very thin. One of them was hanging on by just a few strands under the heat shrink tubing. You can measure a voltage drop on just that short run of wire. Perhaps this is deliberately intended to help cut electrical current or cost. However it may have raised costs due to warranty claims.
 
The "cogging" CSR Elite I examined did not have the wire issue. However... I completely agree on the wire size and soldering um, skill. ;)

I had to resolder the wire onto my PWTS motor awhile back as it heated up enough to desolder itself/break off. Another friend of mine had the same thing happen to his PWTS.

I think some just have the leads soldered on better than others. Regardless, the wires do get quite warm given their gauge.
 
CSR motor: wiring with heat shrink removed. One lead came loose when removing the heat shrink…the other stayed in place and you can see the wiring is quite thin.

floss_zpsb3013594.jpg
 
RacerXX
CSR motor: wiring with heat shrink removed. One lead came loose when removing the heat shrink…the other stayed in place and you can see the wiring is quite thin.
Click to expand...

Yup same stuff I saw yesterday evening on my CSW. Same soldering job and wire gauge.
 

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