Fanatec Announcements: CSW V2 Reviews Out

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Wow, CSR E/CSW are marketed as Flagship/Premium products are they not?

They should be. Though it reminds me of my parents buying a caravan once where the dealership installed the wiring. Though for extra profit they tried to cut costs by using thinner gauge wiring. Result was that upon use of the fridge on electricity (works on gas as well) the wires would just melt.

Now I don't accuse Thomas of this, but having gone through something like this before and the CSW supposedly being sold as cheaply as possible, it does make me wonder if costs were cut a bit too much in some areas.

Edit:
Maybe it would be an idea to use cables with these connectors on it? The cables could be prepped ahead of time and a factory worker could just pop them on the motor pole plugs.

745166_LB_00_FB.EPS_250.jpg
 
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Pardon me for not going back through to look, but which wheel are you using?

I am using the CSW on PC at this time.

Do you have the CSPV2s? Have you used the ABS brake pedal lockup vibration option-thingy? IIBC, that is the only option that comes to mind that I am missing by not being able to plug the CSPV2s into the CSW base.
 
Patrolcles,

If you are currently using the shorter RJ12 to PS2 cable and then a PS2 to PS2 cable from that going to the pedals, try using the other cable, if you have one. One end will plug right in the wheel and the other will plug right in the pedals.

So, don't have it connected like this:

wheel -- short cable -- long cable -- pedals

connect it like this:

wheel -- long cable -- pedals

Your wheel should have come with a cable that will plug into the wheel and the pedals, all at once.

These short RJ12 to PS2 cables are often no good for some reason.
 
It might be worth a look at the datasheet for the motor to see what amp rating it can handle, though you'll probably have to do some maths since finding a datasheet for THAT motor has proved difficult, only the generic RS555PH datasheet. The windings, etc are easy since they are right on the motor.

Once you find the amp rating you can use some chopping or pwm to keep the amps within line when you overvolt the motor.

I'm more inclined to just do some real world tests. The spec sheets are a bit generic and don't fully apply to FFB motor use. For instance a nominal steady state current rating implies much higher RPM use and steadier load than sim wheels experience. Plus sim wheels have torque constantly switching directions. Spec sheet stall torque and associated amperage are maximum readings for very brief periods of time.

The Fanatec motors are noted as "60 watt" which is a bit simplistic. As in 24 volts x 2.5 amps is ~60 watts. The power supply does more than power just the motor, although the motor is the major consumer. Things like PSU limits, the very thin wiring throughout the device, and motor controller mosfet voltage drops are a factor.

In a simplistic test of a stalled CSR motor, about 20.5 volts makes it to the motor. 24 volts minus the various losses.

I have more mosfets (to double or triple potential motor drive current) and a much larger / better fitting motor heat sink on the way. In conjunction with my adjustable DC power supply I will have some fun later this week.

Off the top of my head I'd be happy with about 50% more torque along with increased steering feel sensitivity to enhance control/immersion.

I have an on-steering-shaft optical wheel partially completed too, this will make the steering a bit more direct and simplify motor swaps. Since any brushed 500 series motor can then drop in dirt cheap. So then I can burn up a few of them for fun to find out more about the limits and workarounds.
 
@RacerXX

Do you think a conversion to brushless motors could ever be a possibility for the CSR E and CSWs ?. By that I mean could the FFB reference signals be tapped of the PCB and fed into a brushless motor power supply that could be fitted inside the case some where. Just a thought.
 
RacerXX,

You should start a separate thread detailing your progress. :)

Back on topic. I still have not seen Fanatec post back here regarding the faulty motors or substandard wiring. Maybe the wires were a bad batch as well. Like that batch of sequential shifters that were wired incorrectly some time ago.
 
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@RacerXX

Do you think a conversion to brushless motors could ever be a possibility for the CSR E and CSWs ?. By that I mean could the FFB reference signals be tapped of the PCB and fed into a brushless motor power supply that could be fitted inside the case some where. Just a thought.

It can be done. Though cost would be a concern as well as warranty. It's not really a simple matter of connecting something to the wires that already go to the motor and doing "something else." Brushless motors require a proper controller.

RacerXX, can you program microcontrollers and design a circuit capable of this? I'd like to hear what you think...
 
I'm in doubt between the T500, CSW CSR E. 'm from Brazil, but my uncle lives in paris France, Brazil and turns to spend the holidays in March. But I see that Fanatec wheels are presenting many serious quality problems. The Fanatec warranty work me, since the Fanatec sends a repair kit (to my uncle's house) and my uncle would send me by mail. But who payment $500...work properly.
 
@ Felipe L., so you know, the Thrustmaster warranty requires that it be returned to the Thrustmaster-designated returns/repair entity or to the retailer in the country it was purchased from (depending which country was the point of purchase in the EU) for product exchange or repair that requires the entire unit.

This is because the laws regarding product warranties differ per EU country. The shipping costs to and from the country it was purchased in for exchange/whole unit repair warranty service have to be covered by the product owner.

I had questions about this myself because I purchased Thrustmaster products from Amazon UK for use in both the the USA and Brazil. So I called Thrustmaster's tech support, and inquired about warranty support.

Thrustmaster does however, provide tech support and replacement parts for DIY repair, if for example, you buy product in EU/USA and have an issue with it in Brazil that can be solved that way.

See Post #55 on this T500 Black Friday thread.
 
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@RacerXX

Do you think a conversion to brushless motors could ever be a possibility for the CSR E and CSWs ?. By that I mean could the FFB reference signals be tapped of the PCB and fed into a brushless motor power supply that could be fitted inside the case some where. Just a thought.

Sure, there are a few ways to do that. Brushless motors are more expensive in general than brushed, but they are still affordable. They tend to last longer too. In some fields brushed died out long ago or is dying. To oversimplify they are more efficient (hence can run cooler, a plus for low RPM use…and they are easier to cool more directly since the coils are on the outside). They are driven differently than brushed motors since in effect the commutation takes place not mechanically via brushes in the motor but within the motor controller. There are also higher tech brushed motors with great merit and I am a fan of both types.

Forgetting brushed versus brushless for the moment, it would be nice for sim wheel enthusiasts to have available stock or upgrade options IMO for a Logi or Fana or whatever. In the case of Fanatec, the motors are not readily available loose, yet are very inexpensive units. I sense some stress or concern amongst some enthusiasts that could be reduced if parts were sitting on a shelf in their house just in case or could be easily ordered. Maybe I am wrong about that but I do have that impression. Some sim racers seem to get a bit nervous and find themselves turning FFB and other things way down so that they don't feel like they will break prematurely.
 
It can be done. Though cost would be a concern as well as warranty. It's not really a simple matter of connecting something to the wires that already go to the motor and doing "something else." Brushless motors require a proper controller.

RacerXX, can you program microcontrollers and design a circuit capable of this? I'd like to hear what you think...

Sure, I have played with microcontrollers over time. A circuit could be devised to allow brushless or other conversions too.

For sim racers I would hope that whatever devices they are using from seats to wheels to pedals to tactiles and so forth that they could have better immersion. One of the problems is that fear of parts breaking leads one to turn things down or have a feeling in the back of your mind that harms the experience. The FUD factor. Downtime, costs, the service process.

My goodness these mass market but quality wheels use cheap motors and wear items. I guess this is necessary in order to meet cost goals so that the price is low enough for niche products to sell well. Why worry? Logi and Fanatec motors probably cost their makers just a few dollars apiece.

For instance I have 4 extra cogged belts for my CSRs. I sourced them through Gates. Now I feel like I can push them hard without worry or an uncertain service process. Personally I am not huge on warranties in the first place. I'd prefer to know what tends to break and what tends to wear out and just face the music. So I like to have bits available or tuned properly instead of set and forget forever. Then you replace some things on a routine schedule. I replace tires on my cars and that is not a huge worry. I don't care to run on the open track at 5 tenths so that my car won't break or wear.
 
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We actually plan a service pack for CSW users so that you can send in the CSW and we make a complete overhaul and replace critical parts. In any case it will be possible to buy all major spare parts like motors and belts in the future.

Spare parts are supposed to be avaliable at some point.
 
I'm in doubt between the T500, CSW CSR E. 'm from Brazil, but my uncle lives in paris France, Brazil and turns to spend the holidays in March. But I see that Fanatec wheels are presenting many serious quality problems. The Fanatec warranty work me, since the Fanatec sends a repair kit (to my uncle's house) and my uncle would send me by mail. But who payment $500...work properly.

Well that can be hard to answer. Impressions versus actual performance of a product. I am a Fanatec fan. They seem to be an enthusiastic bunch but are not a huge company in comparison to a competitor like Logitech. So they may not have an office building full of perky customer service reps available 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Or warehouses spread across the globe with shelves filled with spare parts 1 shipping day away from most people.

The reason I mention hard to answer is that the internet can be tricky to figure out. If something is working properly folks don't post that again and again. But if there is a problem some tend to post a lot. Same with people online. On some forums there are products that get protected and others that get unfairly attacked in my view.

If you are big on warranty coverage and greatly prefer dealing with large companies then Logitech might be your best bet. Peace of mind is quite important. But they don't drive quite as nice as Fanatecs now do they?
 
Well that can be hard to answer. Impressions versus actual performance of a product. I am a Fanatec fan. They seem to be an enthusiastic bunch but are not a huge company in comparison to a competitor like Logitech. So they may not have an office building full of perky customer service reps available 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Or warehouses spread across the globe with shelves filled with spare parts 1 shipping day away from most people.

The reason I mention hard to answer is that the internet can be tricky to figure out. If something is working properly folks don't post that again and again. But if there is a problem some tend to post a lot. Same with people online. On some forums there are products that get protected and others that get unfairly attacked in my view.

If you are big on warranty coverage and greatly prefer dealing with large companies then Logitech might be your best bet. Peace of mind is quite important. But they don't drive quite as nice as Fanatecs now do they?

👍^^^
 
Spare parts are supposed to be avaliable at some point.

My first Elite lasted nine months before motor problems. I use it on average 4 hours per week.
I should get another free repair/replacement before the warranty is up.
Then I suppose it's a case of ordering replacements from Fanatec then.
This won't be a problem if they send them out with fitting instructions. Nothing lasts forever.
 
Patrolcles,

If you are currently using the shorter RJ12 to PS2 cable and then a PS2 to PS2 cable from that going to the pedals, try using the other cable, if you have one. One end will plug right in the wheel and the other will plug right in the pedals.

So, don't have it connected like this:

wheel -- short cable -- long cable -- pedals

connect it like this:

wheel -- long cable -- pedals

Your wheel should have come with a cable that will plug into the wheel and the pedals, all at once.

These short RJ12 to PS2 cables are often no good for some reason.

I only used the second combo:
wheel -- long PS2(?) cable -- pedal

I could not get my pedals to work or be recognized by the computer, so I went straight to the
PC --- USB cable --- pedal
this worked fine and I have not changed any cable hookups.


I will have to pull the pedal box out of the attic and try the other plugs (RJ12 and PS2) in the other connection you listed above.
thanks again for the help and information.
 
Patrolcles,

That means that there is either something wrong with the connection between the pedals and the wheel or the cable is no good. Try some other cables if you have them.

Best of luck :)
 
I've never hooked my wheel and pedals together for pc but I'm pretty sure you have to have the "combined wheel/pedals" box checked in the wheel driver to use them together on pc. It's recommended anyway with PC to power the wheel and pedals separately through USB.

Patrocles, is there any special reason you want to hook the wheel and pedals together for pc? I know your on iracing and there's a couple plugins to get the brake vibrations to work without hooking the wheel and pedals together.
 
I recently bought a Playseat with CSW and CSP v2. Wanted to run all wires through the frame, but the original PS/2 was a little short. So I bought a longer one. Unfortunately it would not work with the replacement cable. So I bought 2 other ones. Same problem. At some point I noticed that the connector would not fit as tight as the original. What I did was I cut a little of the plastic around the connector. That did the trick! Tested with 2 different replacement PS/2 cables.
 
Hello everyone, I am from Brasil. I have purchased a CSW a few months ago.
I was able to get it because my friend in USA could send it to me since Fanatec does not ship here.

..but a few days ago, it quit working.
I have lost all FFB, and then it does not power up now. When I borrowed my friend's CSW PSU it will start, but no FFB.

I do not know what i will do, there is no Fanatec support in Brasil.

It will be very expensive for me to send it back to USA for repair.

Does Fanatec have some suggestion for me?

Like you, I am Brazilian. I also bought all products Clubsport.
I play very little, I must have played about 20/25 hours since I bought it. I'm very afraid that to happen to me, I plan to play more in the coming weeks, however, some users pointed out the poor quality solder and wire the motor as one of the problems responsible for the lack of power.
I'm expressing myself on this because if the Fanatec develop a recall plan for countries not serviced under warranty I would like to be included in a preventive manner. This is just an idea.
It is distressing to think that after high bet in buying a premium product (very expensive) in such a short time have it as a burden at home.
 
@ Felipe L., so you know, the Thrustmaster warranty requires that it be returned to the Thrustmaster-designated returns/repair entity or to the retailer in the country it was purchased from (depending which country was the point of purchase in the EU) for product exchange or repair that requires the entire unit.

This is because the laws regarding product warranties differ per EU country. The shipping costs to and from the country it was purchased in for exchange/whole unit repair warranty service have to be covered by the product owner.

I had questions about this myself because I purchased Thrustmaster products from Amazon UK for use in both the the USA and Brazil. So I called Thrustmaster's tech support, and inquired about warranty support.

Thrustmaster does however, provide tech support and replacement parts for DIY repair, if for example, you buy product in EU/USA and have an issue with it in Brazil that can be solved that way.

See Post #55 on this T500 Black Friday thread.


It would be great if the Fanatec send parts for repair for Brazil. I do not want to work for my Uncle. I'll send an email to Fanatec asking about this possibility. It happened with two people here in Brazil, the Fanatec sent the parts to repair the Porsche GT3. You're right, if the T500rs present a serious problem, I'll have to send him back to France and it had cost $ 200, but what problems the T500rs is showing (not to mention the problem of the fan).



Well that can be hard to answer. Impressions versus actual performance of a product. I am a Fanatec fan. They seem to be an enthusiastic bunch but are not a huge company in comparison to a competitor like Logitech. So they may not have an office building full of perky customer service reps available 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Or warehouses spread across the globe with shelves filled with spare parts 1 shipping day away from most people.

The reason I mention hard to answer is that the internet can be tricky to figure out. If something is working properly folks don't post that again and again. But if there is a problem some tend to post a lot. Same with people online. On some forums there are products that get protected and others that get unfairly attacked in my view.

If you are big on warranty coverage and greatly prefer dealing with large companies then Logitech might be your best bet. Peace of mind is quite important. But they don't drive quite as nice as Fanatecs now do they?

Man, I think exactly like you, I see how beautiful is the external finish of the CSW, F1 rim..., but is having a lot of problems that I'm afraid to buy it. See the picture posted "https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=7967767 # post7967767". The internal part of the CSW is crap, and that's what matters. As I said, I would like very much but a CSW.

I have no problem to wait 2 months to fix my steering wheel, my fear is that the Fanatec send replacement parts to Brazil. If there is a problem getting boring I bothering my Uncle, he works have children, can not waste time on these things.
 
It would be great if the Fanatec send parts for repair for Brazil. I do not want to work for my Uncle. I'll send an email to Fanatec asking about this possibility. It happened with two people here in Brazil, the Fanatec sent the parts to repair the Porsche GT3. You're right, if the T500rs present a serious problem, I'll have to send him back to France and it had cost $ 200, but what problems the T500rs is showing (not to mention the problem of the fan).





Man, I think exactly like you, I see how beautiful is the external finish of the CSW, F1 rim..., but is having a lot of problems that I'm afraid to buy it. See the picture posted "https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=7967767 # post7967767". The internal part of the CSW is crap, and that's what matters. As I said, I would like very much but a CSW.

I have no problem to wait 2 months to fix my steering wheel, my fear is that the Fanatec send replacement parts to Brazil. If there is a problem getting boring I bothering my Uncle, he works have children, can not waste time on these things.

Well I am often one to take things into one's own hands. So on one of my CSR wheels I have "gaged up" and resoldered the wires. Now the wires are mostly hidden too, "wire tucking" so to speak. Massively improved the cooling of hot spots and so forth. Tonight I am running the wheel at 28 volts (stock is 24) and all is well, but the wheel is livelier. I will drive it for some time and monitor temperatures and signs of complaint but so far it seems fine.

In your case it would be especially nice to have a few spare parts in your possession. Such as a few motors, belts, maybe a power brick, a load cell if you use Fanatec's better pedals, maybe some cables. The actual cost of the parts should not be too high, the difficulty is tracking them down or getting F to sell them to you if you can't find them on your own.
 
Well I am often one to take things into one's own hands. So on one of my CSR wheels I have "gaged up" and resoldered the wires. Now the wires are mostly hidden too, "wire tucking" so to speak. Massively improved the cooling of hot spots and so forth. Tonight I am running the wheel at 28 volts (stock is 24) and all is well, but the wheel is livelier. I will drive it for some time and monitor temperatures and signs of complaint but so far it seems fine.

In your case it would be especially nice to have a few spare parts in your possession. Such as a few motors, belts, maybe a power brick, a load cell if you use Fanatec's better pedals, maybe some cables. The actual cost of the parts should not be too high, the difficulty is tracking them down or getting F to sell them to you if you can't find them on your own.

Exactly, I've asked 3 Load Cell (are with my Uncle). If Fanatec sell other replacement parts would be great, I'd buy everything at once.
I'm with the CSP V2 home and my G27 arrived today (to play until my uncle come to Brazil).
I'll do a review and a report of CSP V2. First problem I encountered before before using it it was that leaked silicone oil (1200 leaked by half) I'll post pictures.

m7v0hk.jpg

155296x.jpg
 
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Exactly, I've asked 3 Load Cell (are with my Uncle). If Fanatec sell other replacement parts would be great, I'd buy everything at once.
I'm with the CSP V2 home and my G27 arrived today (to play until my uncle come to Brazil).
I'll do a review and a report of CSP V2. First problem I encountered before before using it it was that leaked silicone oil (1200 leaked by half) I'll post pictures.

m7v0hk.jpg

155296x.jpg

Yes honestly your (and many other's) peace of mind could be bumped way up if you had ~ 50 dollars worth of parts sitting on the shelf. Just in case.

I don't know how long it will take to get replacement shock fluid from them…I'd just shrug and try to buy the same viscosity locally.
 
Yes honestly your (and many other's) peace of mind could be bumped way up if you had ~ 50 dollars worth of parts sitting on the shelf. Just in case.

I don't know how long it will take to get replacement shock fluid from them…I'd just shrug and try to buy the same viscosity locally.

Sure. I'm testing the G27 and it seems he has the same build quality of the old momo. Once are ready the cokpit (my father is building it)i will use the CSP V2. Without support for the pedals is difficult to make a good driving. I have until late February to choose which wheel to buy. Hopefully the Fanatec improve the construction of its products to date.
 
Patrolcles,

That means that there is either something wrong with the connection between the pedals and the wheel or the cable is no good. Try some other cables if you have them.

Best of luck :)

I've never hooked my wheel and pedals together for pc but I'm pretty sure you have to have the "combined wheel/pedals" box checked in the wheel driver to use them together on pc. It's recommended anyway with PC to power the wheel and pedals separately through USB.

Patrocles, is there any special reason you want to hook the wheel and pedals together for pc? I know your on iracing and there's a couple plugins to get the brake vibrations to work without hooking the wheel and pedals together.

thank you for the information.

MadRR, I was probably completely daft and did not check the "combined wheel/pedal" option when initially setting up my gear! :dunce:

My wheel is hardmounted to my desk and real PITA to get to the CSW base plugs. This plugin sounds interesting? Do you have an more information or links?
thanks.
 
hey dude, been looking for info to get my led on f1 2012 on ps3 to operate, is it true that you can get it to work ?

Use the latest firmware (v037) for the CS Base. Previously the CSW acted as a G25 in PS3 mode, but now it acts as the G27 in PS3 mode. Which is why the leds will work in games that support the G27 leds. So if you use PS3 mode with the latest firmware it should work in F1 2012.
 
Use the latest firmware (v037) for the CS Base. Previously the CSW acted as a G25 in PS3 mode, but now it acts as the G27 in PS3 mode. Which is why the leds will work in games that support the G27 leds. So if you use PS3 mode with the latest firmware it should work in F1 2012.

Thats nice (and interesting) to know, Logi. But what about sequential shifter support then? Doesn't it work anymore?
 
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