Fanatec Announcements: CSW V2 Reviews Out

  • Thread starter Crispy
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Those of you with the TH8RS need to take it apart and lube the ball detent properly with moly grease. This allows it to be tighted up properly without it wearing down nearly as quick. I did this on mine months ago after it started to finally wear and feel a bit "gross" and gritty when shifting. It's now silky smooth and notchy when going into gear, much better than it was originally. I might make a post showing what to do if I can find the time. It takes maybe 10 minutes.

This is moly grease: http://www.mag1.com/ProductDetails.aspx?id=6eb00ff9-1ff3-488c-8af7-766bda26cbb3

It costs about $5 for a huge tube you'll never run out of.

CSS owners might do well to use some of it on their ball detent as well... It's the same mechanism employed on the TH8RS.
 
Thanks for posting that link. Ive been looking to upgrade the brake shock on my CSP v2's for a while but haven't got around to doing so. Only thing though is I'm not quite following what you mean by mounting the shock. What all modifications need to be done to get the mugen shock in the link to work on the csp v2's? Also what spring and oil are you guys using? Unfortunately there's no longer a local hobby shop around here so I'll be ordering everything online.

Regarding the new hub and rims did anybody else notice or know why on the fanatec website if you look at the Gt rim and hub together its $418 but you can buy the hub and rim separate and its $350 like the other ones? I was wondering why that was. Its good to see the new rims on the web store, but as of right now Im only interested in the oval rim and new hub and its going to be August 18th before its in stock.



When you remove your stock Shock, Look at the Cap and you will see a big scar mark from where the Mount is Gouging into the Shock cap. The mount needs to be rounded off to prevent doing the same to the mugen shock.



I have also upgraded the Spring to a Hard Kyosho spring.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kyosho-Shoc...Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53daaef8a0
 
FFB is a bit different around center

Thanks. The FFB around center being different is a good thing I hope =)

I've heard or read some complaints that they dialed down the Spring and Damper effects to a max of 150. I only use the CSW these days for GT6 and F1 2013, so I never felt the need to turn it up beyond 130 or so.
 
Guys the bolts I used to connect my GT2 rim to the universal hub are too small. What is the size of these bolts to connect the wheel rim to it? Where can I buy them?

Thanks
 
Guys the bolts I used to connect my GT2 rim to the universal hub are too small. What is the size of these bolts to connect the wheel rim to it? Where can I buy them?

Thanks


WoW


Would have thought Fana would include some. Damn!!!!. Most likey they are a m6 or m8
 
You can buy them from a Lowes/Home Depot/ Ace Hardware in the specialty bolt section or even from rcplanet.com (Traxxas 3x40mm Button head for eg) as RC cars use them. You need to choose between raised head (Momo) or flat recessed bolts (Sparcos use these)

Brad
 
Guys,

I just noticed how at small level Fanatec constantly seems to improve their products.
We all know the wobble issues we had in the beginning with our rims, and the need to use the locking screw as a result.

Well, I can note that I haven't got any issues anymore with the new Clubsport Universal Hub. So I started to wonder why, and curious as I am I went and looked at it a bit.

I noticed compared to my older rims that the new Universal Hub seemed to get some resistance at the last 50mm or less when putting the wheel on.

Looking at the quick releases I noticed a important but small improvement inside. Inside the new quick release mechanism there is now an rubber o-ring to squeze the QR around the hub on the base, and to hold it rigidly in place as a result.

Here's the old quick release on my BMW rim:
DSC_0065.JPG


Here's the Universal Hub's quick release:
DSC_0061.JPG




Interesting huh?
How such a small ring can be so important to the stability of our rims during gameplay.

Just wanted to share this little find. :gtpflag:


Cheers@ :cheers:
 
Perhaps they should ship the O rings to those of us that had issues with the wobble.

It's hard to tell on the pictures, but the new QR has a slot in which the o-ring seats. This slot is not present on at least my older wheels with the old QR revision.
So that idea unfortunately isn't going to work.
 
Although it seems to me that they are inadvertently admitting that it was loose on the original rims.
Like most of us said
 
I'm still planning on buying a BMW rim (because the universal hub kits + wheel are more expensive and I love the look of the BMW rim). Do you think this improvement has been made to this as well or just the universal hub?
 
I'm still planning on buying a BMW rim (because the universal hub kits + wheel are more expensive and I love the look of the BMW rim). Do you think this improvement has been made to this as well or just the universal hub?

Seems logical to do at least. Why would you update the same QR system for one product and not for the other? Makes no sense to be honest.
 
Hmm, I can't make out what you're describing in the photo Logi, but guys with loose QR's should be able to tighten them by just sticking a small flat rubber or similar material shim inside the QR so it contacts the end of the wheel's QR when it's inserted. This should tighten up the fit of the QR's ball bearings on the ramp so it snugs up the fit.

Also, my QR is very tight with no slop - I think this is more of a machining tolerance issue than anything, since some people have loose fits and others are snug.
 
Hmm, I can't make out what you're describing in the photo Logi, but guys with loose QR's should be able to tighten them by just sticking a small flat rubber or similar material shim inside the QR so it contacts the end of the wheel's QR when it's inserted. This should tighten up the fit of the QR's ball bearings on the ramp so it snugs up the fit.

Also, my QR is very tight with no slop - I think this is more of a machining tolerance issue than anything, since some people have loose fits and others are snug.


I'll point it out the location of where to look with my 1.5mm allen key.

BMW rim QR - no o-ring at location:
DSC_0069.JPG

Universal Hub - 1 o-ring at location seated in a groove around the outer edge of the QR:
DSC_0068.JPG


I hope it is clear enough now?
This o-ring wraps around the edge of the CSW side hub, making sure it's a tight fit while making sure the QR full seats into position with respect to the ball bearings.
 
Ah that photo is better, now I can see it. That is basically the same thing I was suggesting, except it looks like maybe that o-ring may fit to the OD of the QR also? Just a thin but of rubber on the face would accomplish pretty much the same thing on a loose fit.
 
Already tried it with different sizes O-ring, but fitting a O-ring on the old rims will not work.

I had one that matches perfectly and with a original BMW number, which means everybody can get one just by ordering it at a BMW Dealer. With a rubber ring, even a small one, you can't get the wheel onto the base anymore.

The O-ring in the Hub QR has the same shape as the wheel base hub. It's tapered, not flat

(not sure if tapered it's the correct english word for it)
 
Already tried it with different sizes O-ring, but fitting a O-ring on the old rims will not work.

I had one that matches perfectly and with a original BMW number, which means everybody can get one just by ordering it at a BMW Dealer. With a rubber ring, even a small one, you can't get the wheel onto the base anymore.

The O-ring in the Hub QR has the same shape as the wheel base hub. It's tapered, not flat

(not sure if tapered it's the correct english word for it)

Told you so via mail, Henk. Being stubborn? :lol:

The o-ring is just a ring which inner diameter almost matches the outer diameter of the QR.
The ring sits in a machined groove just below the ball bearings, but above the angled edge deep within the QR. The edge that exactly matches and mates with the angled edge on the CSW base hub en.

The slot for the round o-ring and the o-ring are designed as follows

A) slipping of the ring when the wheel is being inserted or removed.
B) the inner diameter of the ring can now match the QR outer diameter, so that the CSW base hub end can move past the ring.
C) the ring's outer diameter is as big as the groove's outer diameter is. When the CSW base hub end forces its way past the o-ring the ring gets compressed against the outer wall of this groove, which causes a seal and with that the snug fit.


Come on guys. Just even looking at the darn QR when its all together I can see how it works. There really is no need to try silly things that you know definitely will not work just by looking at the design.

1. Using rubber on the end will not work, as the QR slanted edge (deep inside! Past the ring!) and the hub slanted edge are an exact tight fit. Anything that fills that up will cause the ball bearings to not reach their sockets.
2. Using tape around the end will not work either, as the tape will curl up as the edges of the hub or QR will get caught on it. If it curls up tha you get the same effects as with 1.
3. Putting o-rings of any size into the old QR will not work without the machined groove to seat it in. The o-ring will just get pushed to the back with again the same result as with 1. Not causing a good fit.

There is no way in hell you can fix it without machining that groove into the QR. If one wish to try that and take the QR apart for it, be my guest. Just know that I am sure Fanatec's warranty will end with it.
It's the same type of groove you find for o-rings in a water tap. Though those often have the groove around the inner diameter, but the QR has it in the outer diameter.
The o-ring is forced against the inside of the groove as a 'sidewall' causes if to compress. This compression and tight fit causes a water tight seal on a water tap, plus it prevents any wobble from the swinging tap arm.


The science of o-rings and usage there of. Brain breaking... :indiff::lol: Really guys, it's not rocket science :odd:

ps. If you don't believe me that this is how o-rings work. Just remove the rings from the water tap in the kitchen. Though don't let your wife catch you will making a swimming pool out of the kitchen. :P
 
Well Chris,

Your english is certainly better than mine :lol:

I knew it would work, but i had an O-ring that fitted so i had to try :D
 
Logi, let's not stoop to being condescending now. A thin bit of rubber will work, but it will need to be either very soft so it compresses well or very thin, just enough to fill the gap between the tapered areas. It will need to be glued to the loose wheel's taper so it stays with the wheel. What this will do is remove the play in the system and cause the fit between the taper and the ball sockets to be zero clearance so it holds tightly. I have machined similar systems from scratch and repaired others, so I know it will work. The o-ring Fanatec have added will work too but doesn't really solve the problem so much as mask it. They are basically trying to fix the issue without resorting to having to hold tighter tolerances (which perhaps the Chinese factory is unable to do).
 
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