- 302
- Sydney
- GTP_Ezza75
Wise advice.
Cheers mate
Cheers mate
With less tension on the belts, the bearings are stressed a lot less, that why i'm guessing it's a bearing. They are located between the shaft and the housing (front and back)
Not sure i can give you more info mate, my best advice would be sending the wheelbase back and let Fanatec check it out to be sure. If it's all fine now, at least send the wheel back to be checked out in the warranty period.
Yea, I was tempted to open it up and try to see what might be wrong but then I thought, how is Fanatec going to learn from this flaw if no one reports it or sends it back for repair so that its documented. Maybe its a common issue and there's a fix that will be installed when I send it in. I'm hopeful that's the case anyway. Only 11 days of use before the wheel is broken is just not good though. I know Fanatec will fix it, but I just hope they actually correct the flaw unless this is purely a QC issue.
Yea, I was tempted to open it up and try to see what might be wrong but then I thought, how is Fanatec going to learn from this flaw if no one reports it or sends it back for repair so that its documented. Maybe its a common issue and there's a fix that will be installed when I send it in. I'm hopeful that's the case anyway. Only 11 days of use before the wheel is broken is just not good though. I know Fanatec will fix it, but I just hope they actually correct the flaw unless this is purely a QC issue.
I'll send them my report also, even if it's nothing major.
But I wonder if Fanatec gave beta units some more attention and strength for the initial reviewers...
Turned out what was causing my V2 to clonk, knock and grind was the belt pulling the pulley being too tight....so I unscrewed the cluster of 3 allen screws at the left of the V2 unit, and shift all 3 allen screws just slightly to the right (ie towards the wheel/motor), to lessen the tension of the belt attached to the pulley that the 3 allen screws are holding in place. This fixed the problem with my V2....it has been quiet & smooth since, even after the Suzuka 10 lap Survival Race.
I just tried this and it looks like it cured my issue, thanks for the suggestion. I unscrewed the bottom two screws just enough to release the initial tension and It was already fine.
Seems that the screws and pulleys need very minor adjustments, to settle down perfectly after the initial usage.
I'll do some more driving, but the cold base is already smooth all the way through rotation, but before it wasn't.
It is impossible that the belts have become too tight on their own. They can and will loosen over time but not tighten.
This notchy/ clunk feeling some have mentioned that happens only when the wheel is powered up is a motor problem.
Loosening the belt`s tension is only a temporary fix and will come back soon
Pretty much what I figure too. I've already boxed mine up and waiting for the final RMA instructions from Fanatec.
To the guys having noise issues do they sound anything like this. both videos are of the same guy, the wheel in the second video is actually his replacement he received for the first wheel.
I just tried this and it looks like it cured my issue, thanks for the suggestion. I unscrewed the bottom two screws just enough to release the initial tension and It was already fine.
Seems that the screws and pulleys need very minor adjustments, to settle down perfectly after the initial usage.
I'll do some more driving, but the cold base is already smooth all the way through rotation, but before it wasn't.
i hope for a quick solution![]()
The solution is EASY.... If you want a very low chance of issues, don't buy a new wheel within the first 6 months of production. Same exact statement I made in the T300 thread a few weeks backStarting to second guess the csv2..... although I also have returned 2 faulty thrustmaster tx's.
Was hoping the new v2 base would be the answer. My base and pedals aren't do to ship until the end of January.
Starting to second guess the csv2..... although I also have returned 2 faulty thrustmaster tx's.
Was hoping the new v2 base would be the answer. My base and pedals aren't do to ship until the end of January.
The solution is EASY.... If you want a very low chance of issues, don't buy a new wheel within the first 6 months of production. Same exact statement I made in the T300 thread a few weeks back
We're in a niche sector and the manufacturers do their best, but setting up production lines always involves teething troubles. Thrustmaster has it bad right now with the heavy demand for their next gen console wheels, Fanatec has had plenty of production teething troubles in the past so no matter how prepared they are there's always a higher risk during the early phase of a new product's production.
So yes, this is my first post on the forums (sorry about that!) I've been out of sim racing for a while, and though I probably shouldn't spend money in a big way on it again, I just find myself wanting toThat said, I've only just been told about fanatic, and thus, never ordered before, so yes, first post here is a code begging post. Anyone got a US code? I know its late in the game and unlikely, but its worth a shot. I posted over on the fanatic forums and one guy (won't mention the name even though people could check and find out I'm sure!) was kind enough to point me over here and a couple other places where my begging might be more successful
I'm not a fan of begging, but I like to buy good stuff rather than get comfortable with ok stuff.
How about it then? A code for a returning racer?
Mine was not even powered up and would make a knocking noise during rotation. It felt like it was binding and then pop free making the noise.
Hey @Blkout, did Fanatec mention on their own they were on vacation till 1/05/15. The only thing mentioned in my email is that the repair could take up to 7 business days. I sent mine in on the 18th, they received it on the 19th and I received an email confirmation of their receipt on the 21st.
Oh well, looks like new year, new (repaired) wheel. I guess my concern now, is it seems some are onto a second repair already and that is not good.
Cheers and good luck all.
This is the note I got with the RMA.
Please consider that our repair center will be closed from December 24th through January 5th. The repair will be done from January 6th and sent back to you accordingly.
maybe a stupid question, but.. where is de repair being made?? US repair center, China or Germany??![]()
maybe a stupid question, but.. where is de repair being made?? US repair center, China or Germany??![]()
I assumed it was La Mirada as that is where I sent it. I suppose they could ship it onto somewhere else, but it seems like that would take a lot longer than 7 business days though.
To the guys having noise issues do they sound anything like this. both videos are of the same guy, the wheel in the second video is actually his replacement he received for the first wheel.