Fanatec Announcements: CSW V2 Reviews Out

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Strange, I got two types of power cables (thought It was a norm). It is odd not to include both for everyone (Maybe they have no idea what we use over here :D )
 
Strange, I got two types of power cables (thought It was a norm). It is odd not to include both for everyone (Maybe they have no idea what we use over here :D )
Two cables ? That would have been a wise choice.
But, no I got only one, and it is the wrong one :mischievous:
 
Well great, I can't enter the controller properties in Windows 10 for the wheel, just gives up saying first time setup on this USB port failed etc, works fine for the pedals.
 
Well great, I can't enter the controller properties in Windows 10 for the wheel, just gives up saying first time setup on this USB port failed etc, works fine for the pedals.
Did you install the driver with the wheel powered on and plugged in? If not, uninstall then reinstall with it plugged in and turned on.
 
Well great, I can't enter the controller properties in Windows 10 for the wheel, just gives up saying first time setup on this USB port failed etc, works fine for the pedals.

Are you able to connect to it on a lower Windows operating system? You might have the opposite of what i got. I cant get no input or controller properties with direct connection to V2 base. I would advice getting in touch with Fanatec ASAP so you wont be absent with your pedal for long. Mine should be getting sent back to me tomorrow :gtpflag:
 
Thanks, yes. Even an little adapter could help (Only two months ago I threw one away while I had no use for it. :lol:
But I think Fanatec is going to send me a proper one.

Just made a picture to compare my TM GT wheel with the new Porsche wheel, huge difference...
Wheels-comp-rsz.jpg

Every time I see the 918 wheel I get a strong urge to buy one... even though I don't really need it.

Also, after a couple days, it is abundantly clear that if you want the CSPv3s you need a damper for the brake. At which point, higher end, fully hydraulic sim pedals start to become an option. IMO Fanatec should just include one damper and charge $330-350 for the whole set. Mine is on order.
 
Every time I see the 918 wheel I get a strong urge to buy one... even though I don't really need it.

Also, after a couple days, it is abundantly clear that if you want the CSPv3s you need a damper for the brake. At which point, higher end, fully hydraulic sim pedals start to become an option. IMO Fanatec should just include one damper and charge $330-350 for the whole set. Mine is on order.

Yes, my damper will be delivered end of september. I was going to install it on the brake too, don't really see the point using one for the throttle...
The Porsche 918 RSR rim... it is so nice and compared to the TM GT rim, this feels like one in a real car. I hesitated for some time (mainly because of the price label), but I'm glad I bought this one. So well made... :bowdown:
 
Did you install the driver with the wheel powered on and plugged in? If not, uninstall then reinstall with it plugged in and turned on.

That fixed it thanks. Ok, first the brake on these pedals are ridiculously hard, I thought the thing was set to the hardest out the box but it set to the easiest. As for the wheel stand it's pretty crap, badly designed, first instead of nice quick release levers like the Wheel Stand Pro has you have to use Allan keys, which for the folding and unfolding of it it's very slow and annoying, but the worst thing is when trying to set it to a folded position the thing has huge amount of play no matter how hard in turn the screw thing with the Allan key which means it's going to hit the brake pedal and scratch it up, this thing seems to have been designed like they expect no one to fold it up, also the rubber ends that go on behind the pedals come off way to easy against the carpet with the amount of weight with everything on it. The Wheel Stand Pro doesn't have as nice a platform for the pedals but overall is a better product.

As for the wheel and pedals, I haven't had much chance to use it yet, just a little go on Forza 5, need to tune it in just so, anyone got any game and wheel settings to try out? Will have another go tomorrow and some time on PC with it too. Also need to adjust the button box placement for the wheel as they are not quite right.
 
Ok, still not much time with it but I have some problems, just tried a test in iRacing and the wheel turning resistance is way too high and the only way I can solve that is turning down the Force setting in the tuning menu but that also removes all the detail such as bumps. Drift setting is no solution to this either, anyone know how to set this wheel up, right now it feels worse than the old Logitech Momo Force I came from.
 
Ok, still not much time with it but I have some problems, just tried a test in iRacing and the wheel turning resistance is way too high and the only way I can solve that is turning down the Force setting in the tuning menu but that also removes all the detail such as bumps. Drift setting is no solution to this either, anyone know how to set this wheel up, right now it feels worse than the old Logitech Momo Force I came from.


Unsure what your settings are but here is what I've always used on iracing with my V1 and now V2. Only difference with the V2 is that I run the drift on 002 and had to turn the in game FFB down.

Driver:
Rotation on 900 degrees
Dampening on 0

Wheel Setting:
Sen - AUT, same as off on a V1, turned off so it goes of the driver setting of 900 degrees
FF - 100
Sho - 100
Abs - off
Lin - off
Dea - off
Dri - 002, I ran it on 0 with the V1
For - 100
Spr - off
Dpr - off

In game:
Non linear mode
Dampening set to 0
FFB varies a little from car to car, usually I have it set around 5.0
 
Anyone else getting an unsmooth/jittery action on their brake on after about 40% brake pressure (brake knob on the 3rd mark)? My brake has slowly started to do this (IE it is getting worse). Applying the supplied grease did not help. It is almost like the pu foam is not compressing progressively, rather in bursts. It is a very frustrating feeling because it leads to an uneven pedal input, even if you trying to be smooth on the brake. I was wondering why I was locking up so much and I looked at my telemetry and my braking looks like a mountain range vs a bunch of hills. It is bad enough now that I can feel it just about every time I press the pedal.

Considering the wheel did not do this when I first got it, I am going to call Fanatec and see what they have to say.
 
You could be right with your guess about the PU foarm. Already some more people reported this problem.

Normally the problem is that there is missing some greasing at the PU foarm inside the brake in some of the pedals. What you are describing sounds for me like this. You can open the brake by just releasing a small screw at the bottom on the top of the brake. Then you are able to get out the PU foarm and can give some technical vaseline around the PU foarm. This is also mentioned on the page 33 of the manual in the maintenance chapter. You should not (!) use the grease for this that came with the pedals.
 
You could be right with your guess about the PU foarm. Already some more people reported this problem.

Normally the problem is that there is missing some greasing at the PU foarm inside the brake in some of the pedals. What you are describing sounds for me like this. You can open the brake by just releasing a small screw at the bottom on the top of the brake. Then you are able to get out the PU foarm and can give some technical vaseline around the PU foarm. This is also mentioned on the page 33 of the manual in the maintenance chapter. You should not (!) use the grease for this that came with the pedals.

So what kind of grease should I use? WD40?
 
Lol... I don't know how I missed that...

All I can find in the manual regarding this. "Please add some technical vaseline to the PU foam if you can feel it becomes stucking."

It does not explain how to access and there is no illustration for this.
 
All I can find in the manual regarding this. "Please add some technical vaseline to the PU foam if you can feel it becomes stucking."

It does not explain how to access and there is no illustration for this.
https://www.fanatec.com/forum/discussion/162/introducing-the-new-clubsport-pedals-v3-update/p9 post from Frank here covers disassemble.
For "technical vaseline", grab 100% pure petroleum jelly, like this one.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007E62538/?tag=gtplanet-20
 
Thanks for the information and help. I took it apart last night, the PU foam was a bit dry so I lubed with petroleum jelly. The action is smooth now. It was too late to completely assemble with damper and connect to PC to reset limits last night, so I'll finish setup tonight if I can.
 
New driver 226 posted at Fanatec.

Release notes:
Here is the full change log for our Fanatec driver version 226:

Supported devices

Wheels:
ClubSport Wheel Base V2
ClubSport Wheel Base
CSR Wheel
CSR Elite Wheel
Porsche GT2 Wheel
Porsche GT3 V2 Wheel
Porsche Wheel Turbo S
Use the latest firmwares for those devices!

Pedals:
All Fanatec USB pedals (especially CSP V3)
All pedal sets which are connected to supported Fanatec Wheels

ClubSport USB Adapter (Handbrake & ClubSport Shifter supported)

ClubSport Series steering wheels:
ALL (released before August 2015)


New firmwares included:
- CSW V1 base: CSW_Base_V115_rev549_boot_beta
- CSW V2 base: CSW_V2_Base_V116_rev550_boot_beta
- CSP V3 pedals: CSPV2_APP_01V12.hex


Feature updates:
CS Handbrake can now be used on PC if connected to ClubSport Pedals and ClubSport Pedals to Wheel Base.
Manual CSP V3 calibration mode will now be properly stored IN the pedal firmware.
Default for sensitivity (wheel angle) in driver has been set to 900°

· Windows 10 ready!
This driver should be fully compatible with Windows 10. Please post all possible Win10 related issues into the comments of our blog. It would be great if you could try to reproduce the same problem in Win 8 as well to verify the root cause.
· Various minor code improvements and updates


CHANGELOG CSW (V1 & V2) Firmware:

· Problem for switching UHX modes resolved (PC<->XBO). PS3 mode cannot be switched back to (PC or XBO) other modes due technical reasons. Restart necessary!
· Wrong error message in CSW Updater fixed.
· BRF will not be shown anymore on CSW Base if CSP V3 are in manual calibration mode. BRF is for auto-calibration only!
· Optimized initialization process to avoid calibration differences between different rims/wheels.
· Reworked UHX PC mode toggle to solve USB 3.0 issues
· Fan PWM alterations to eliminate fan noise problems
· New UHX PC button mapping – more buttons can be used
· XBO communication refined
· PS3 Mode – The ring of light will always stay white in PS3 mode now (red = PC; green = Xbox One)

Please give me your feedback on the driver and firmware on our blog and always mention the FW and driver version. Thanks.
 
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But until now it's not compatible with Fanaleds.
Indeed, I won't be upgrading until Fanaleds is co firmed to be working properly. To be honest, I don't really have a need to, my wheel works fine, but it's good to know I have the latest drivers.
 
Does anyone have Fanaleds working with the CSW v2 in Assetto Corsa? Fanaleds works fine for me in Dirt Rally and PCars but not in AC. Is this only me, can it be resolved?
 
Unsure what your settings are but here is what I've always used on iracing with my V1 and now V2. Only difference with the V2 is that I run the drift on 002 and had to turn the in game FFB down.

Driver:
Rotation on 900 degrees
Dampening on 0

Wheel Setting:
Sen - AUT, same as off on a V1, turned off so it goes of the driver setting of 900 degrees
FF - 100
Sho - 100
Abs - off
Lin - off
Dea - off
Dri - 002, I ran it on 0 with the V1
For - 100
Spr - off
Dpr - off

In game:
Non linear mode
Dampening set to 0
FFB varies a little from car to car, usually I have it set around 5.0

Thanks for that, much better.
 
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