Fanatec ClubSport Pedal V2 - Tuning

I would expect it to be the 1200. Talked to a beta tester and he mentioned nobody liked the 800 so probably because of that they don´t ship it anymore. I got same bottle but mine was marked 1200.
 
oqvist
I would expect it to be the 1200. Talked to a beta tester and he mentioned nobody liked the 800 so probably because of that they don´t ship it anymore. I got same bottle but mine was marked 1200.
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Okay so let's say I have the 1200 and can make at least a 5:1 damping force change. So 1200-6000. Or suppose I went with something like 800 or 1000 and then could stiffen the damping effect to an 800-4000 or 1000-5000 range via simple external adjustment. Might those be useful ranges in your opinion? What about apply versus release forces, that too can be done via a piston swap (different forces when compressing versus releasing). Thanks.
 
RacerXX
In real racing you don't change damper fluids as much as you do internal valving bits. Along with external damper adjustments. It might be nice to have a knob or two to play with along with some internal bits for these tiny shocks. Once that was figured out you could make changes much more quickly than changing fluids. I supposed you also need to get all the air bubbles out with a fluid swap and that might take longer with the thicker oils.

My club sport pedals showed up the other day and came with one bottle of fluid, unlabeled. Anyone know what viscosity that might be?
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actually in real racing it is just the opposite.
once preliminary shock testing is completed for a given track the various check valves(not valve bits) will be kept for most of a race season.
the only time you would change them is to adjust for the various tracks.
while racing depending on the track surface conditions and changes in elevation during a race the shock fluids can become extremely hot and cause gauling of the shock bore and other components. other factors such as normal wear of internals will cause the fluid to become black and no longer function as it should thus requiring a fluid change at the very least.
professional race teams will have on hand different shocks for each track they race at during a season.
to say that racers do not change the shock fluids is like saying they change only the connecting rod berrings and not the motor oil.:dopey::dopey:
 
I ran the stock brake damper spring through an online spring calculator. It detected the buckling issue this spring exhibits. It tends to bend and rub on the coilover pretty easily. Not a huge issue by any means but it can make a slight sound as it rubs the body of the damper. The spring rate came to 1.66 lb/inch.

Here are the stock spring dimensions which I measured on my sample:

StockCSV2BrkSpr_zps18844bdc.png


Here is a Lowes sourced spring. I had to crazy glue in a cut rubber grommet to center this spring on the brake damper. You can just see it under the upper spring perch. It is smaller than the stock spring's diameter and so that was necessary. The spring rate came to 7.09 lb/inch and no buckling warning was indicated and there isn't one in practice.

LowesASpring_zps43efde8e.png


Stock spring, damper with Lowes, Lowes-sourced Hillman spring:

CSv2damperampsprings_zps65d263fe.jpg


The damper has a stroke when loose of about 1.6 inches. When installed the stroke is reduced to around 1.4 inches. When full extended, the distance between the spring perches can be adjusted from about 2 to 3.2 inches for the stock spring. The other spring can see a different range since it is shorter and because the upper perch seat is different. It can adjust from 1.77 to 2.29 inches. No coil bind was noticed with either spring when the damper was fully compressed with reasonable lower perch settings.

If there is any interest I'll calculate the various ranges of available spring pressure or you can do it from the above data if you'd like. A bit tired but I am not seeing any data typos, I'll correct if I find any or just let me know.
 
Sorry to repeat myself but is it normal to have jitter on the pedal inputs. It differ about 1 % if I hold them stationary. About same on all pedals so it appear to be something about the electronics.
 
oqvist
Sorry to repeat myself but is it normal to have jitter on the pedal inputs. It differ about 1 % if I hold them stationary. About same on all pedals so it appear to be something about the electronics.
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The jitter comes from a bad contact. Try to check the wires that go to the sensors.
Most likely it's the throttle sensor cable. Weird thing is that jitter on one pedal seems to influence the rest, and seems to be less present on the next present and even less the one after that. Starting with throttle, then brake and then clutch.
So first check the throttle, then brake and then the clutch cable.

I had this and it seemed to be a bad connection on the sensor end of the throttle cable. So you might need to call Fanatec support for this one and get a replacement.
 
Can´t see anything loose on the sensor end. Appear I have to disassemble everything to take a look at the pcb side. Anyway it´s getting worse so sent a support request. I have lost the throttle two times when connecting the pedals to two different computers so you may be right about the villain.
 
oqvist
Can´t see anything loose on the sensor end. Appear I have to disassemble everything to take a look at the pcb side. Anyway it´s getting worse so sent a support request. I have lost the throttle two times when connecting the pedals to two different computers so you may be right about the villain.
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I had the same thing. Mine wasn't loose either. This doesn't mean that the copper wire inside couldn't have gone bad due to bending though. They are thin wires and the throttle wire is a bit short. So each time when the throttle goes back to neutral the calbles is being pulled on/stretches. So the copper could give way, or the cable might not be seated nicely in the tiny connector anymore. Still being in contact, but not solid enough to transfer the signal properly.

I think Fanatec will send you a new sensor with cable under warranty in this case. Though I fiddled with it until it kept working properly (I might just be lucky though).
 
Did a few shock/damper mods. One was to make the overall damping force adjustable without the need to change fluids each time. I'm not sure there is much user benefit to that, however it IS kinda cool. I wound up with a 7:1 range.

The second mod (and more interesting to me) was to make the damping force directional. As in harder to compress the damper as the brake is applied. And then much less damping when you release the brakes (which extends the damper). This should feel nicer and aid brake modulation since brake release won't be as delayed when high damping is used on brake-apply. I'm at about a 3 or 4:1 range at the moment. As in that many times harder to compress than extend.

I'll make some more changes over the next few days to see if I can get rid of some problems. For instance with the higher forces now available, I kept blowing out the soft O-ring at the base of the damper body. So I will fit a stronger seal to eliminate that issue.

Stock, you can see the soft o-ring that blows out:
csv2damper1_zps96dc2f7f.jpg

Modded shock/damper showing blown seal:
CSV2modleak1_zps9b1bf508.jpg
 
RacerXX
Did a few shock/damper mods. One was to make the overall damping force adjustable without the need to change fluids each time. I'm not sure there is much user benefit to that, however it IS kinda cool. I wound up with a 7:1 range.
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Can you explain this more or provide some photos so others can possibly do the same?
 
Some insight that I noticed, you guys keep saying the O-Rings are not good enough. But what I really think is most people are over filling the shock.
For an RC shocks you should fill it to the top then compress it wait for the air bubbles to surface and fill in only a little more. Since the one on the V2s have a Piggyback reservoir you guys are probably over filling the smaller side. Trying rebuilding it and only fill to the top of the threads once you get to the small piggyback.
Also when building shocks you should let them sit upright for 10 mins to let all the air bubbles out before screwing the cap on. If done properly your shocks should rebound, if you compress them and they just stay compressed its probably wrong.

It's weird that Thomas decided to with an RC Shock with a piggy reservoir :confused: In real life it's their to keep the shock oil from over heating but in the RC world it just holds more oil which isn't needed and everyone will tell you their is no benefit and that they just "look cool".


I have plenty of different viscosity oils and pistons with more holes, I'll try changing it around and report if I find anything good.

(p.s. I use to spend a lot more time RC racing than I did sim racing, but this is much cheaper :lol: )

313707_10150313828651741_959261024_n.jpg
 
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bermudakid
Some insight that I noticed, you guys keep saying the O-Rings are not good enough. But what I really think is most people are over filling the shock.
For an RC shocks you should fill it to the top then compress it wait for the air bubbles to surface and fill in only a little more. Since the one on the V2s have a Piggyback reservoir you guys are probably over filling the smaller side. Trying rebuilding it and only fill to the top of the threads once you get to the small piggyback.
Also when building shocks you should let them sit upright for 10 mins to let all the air bubbles out before screwing the cap on. If done properly your shocks should rebound, if you compress them and they just stay compressed its probably wrong.

It's weird that Thomas decided to with an RC Shock with a piggy reservoir :confused: In real life it's their to keep the shock oil from over heating but in the RC world it just holds more oil which isn't needed and everyone will tell you their is no benefit and that they just "look cool".


I have plenty of different viscosity oils and pistons with more holes, I'll try changing it around and report if I find anything good.

(p.s. I use to spend a lot more time RC racing than I did sim racing, but this is much cheaper :lol: )

313707_10150313828651741_959261024_n.jpg
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My o-ring blew out when I changed the internal damper valving. I increased the bump force while leaving rebound the same or lower. So that overworked the o-ring where the reservoir screws into place. Now I have a much beefier o-ring in place and all is well. Trying out some 3000 and 10,000 cst oils. They come in easier to use bottles than stock since the squirt hole is larger…less of a hand workout.

My fill has always seemed fine, as you note you don't want to overfill. Remember that the rod enters the damper body and takes up space formerly taken by fluid. So this needs to be accommodated. Besides leaving some air, you can also fit a bladder (readily available).

Silicone also tends to hold or dissolve some air without showing bubbles and so it can be slightly compressible. That is one of the reasons why it is not desirable as an automotive brake fluid…you get a soft pedal with it.
 
smokey777
ya i would love to see as well could help out 👍
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I did not find merit in the wide range adjuster for sim braking. But I'll keep an eye on it. There is a sweetspot IMO. It would take many posts and photos for me to explain how to do it and why and how to overcome side effects. I did find some slight benefit to asymmetrical valving though (so I redid the weak O-ring, the others are okay so far), and several other things on the pedals with which I am messing. I think there is more course time to be found down by your feet than at your hands, just like with real racing.
 
Got the replacement sensors now. It certainly is better but particularly in diview there is still some jitter though not as much. Anybody using diview? Is your pedal inputs perfectly stable when holding the pedals stationary? I see the jitter on the regular control panel also but there it appear more stable.
 
oqvist
Got the replacement sensors now. It certainly is better but particularly in diview there is still some jitter though not as much. Anybody using diview? Is your pedal inputs perfectly stable when holding the pedals stationary? I see the jitter on the regular control panel also but there it appear more stable.
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I've been directly datalogging the various pedal sensors and don't see any significant jitter issues at that early signal stage FWIW.
 
oqvist
Got the replacement sensors now. It certainly is better but particularly in diview there is still some jitter though not as much. Anybody using diview? Is your pedal inputs perfectly stable when holding the pedals stationary? I see the jitter on the regular control panel also but there it appear more stable.
Click to expand...

One other possibility is that there could be a ground loop somewhere.

For example when you have the PS/2 cable and USB cable attached to the ports. While one cable is in use, you tend to tuck the other away. If the outer ring of the USB or PS/2 cables (which acts like a ground/earth pole) comes in contact with your pedal plate or the CSP's metal construction itself it can make a loop of sorts. Which causes some funky stuff to happen as well.
Best would be to just have one cable at a time connected to the pedals at a time.

Last possibility could be static on your rig because of the dry air in our houses in the winter. Try to run a wire from your pedal plate to your radiator for example. Or the PC chassis (which is also grounded if you use grounded wall sockets).
Someone over at WMD had this issue and his CSP's would just completely stop functioning until he got out of his chair again. He ran a wire from his chair frame to the radiator.

If you have acces to WMD: http://forum.wmdportal.com/showthre...eedback-thread&p=364053&viewfull=1#post364053
 
On a similar note, I have had disconnects & dropouts occur when my cats cruise by.
Cats and static electricity go hand-in-hand.
 
Do have a cat over and yes he give me electric shocks winter time. Sometimes you even see the flash. Luckily the pedal tray he can´t climb up to easilly.

Anyway it certainly did help knock on wood. 1/10th jitter I can live with and perhaps I can get it better with some wire for them to my external radiator for my PC.
 
oqvist
Do have a cat over and yes he give me electric shocks winter time. Sometimes you even see the flash. Luckily the pedal tray he can´t climb up to easilly.

Anyway it certainly did help knock on wood. 1/10th jitter I can live with and perhaps I can get it better with some wire for them to my external radiator for my PC.
Click to expand...

Did anything help to get rid of the issue?
 
Been busy with a league race so haven´t tried the grounding wire yet and chose the T500RS pedals this time. Perhaps later this week I will see.
 
Man the cats must think we are totally crazy. Sitting there in a funny looking chair spinning a wheel and muttering and shouting once in awhile...
 
Finally found the thread i have been looking for....I started another thread ("Fanatec Modification for Amputee") but I think what I need is here....

I want to make this a simple mod, i.e. no shocks, is it is as easy as replacing the accelerator spring with a stiffer one? I would like to at least double the current accelerator resistance - is there anything important I should consider in swapping springs? I plan to just go to Home Depot and getting a thicker spring of about the same size....or, should I find a hobby shop?

Thanks for responding.....
 

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