Fanatec ClubSport Pedal V2 - Tuning

I would measure up the Stock Spring and go to McMaster-carr(IF you live in the US that is) They will have the proper length/Diam and coil options.
 
super kermit
Awesome mod with the spring.

Do you have the make and model of the spring you bought please?
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Was an unbranded spring they had spare somewhere in the shop. So sorry, I wouldn't have a clue what kind of spring it is. Measurements are in the description of the video though.
 
Lucas Moreira
Hey Nick, I actually just purchased the exact same MBX6 shocks to put on my CSP. Thing is I am having trouble fitting it in there, how did you get enough clearance between the shock and the black aluminum part that holds the load cell?
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Pm replied and Ill get some more pics up. I Honestly didn't encounter this problem when i was doing mine.
 
Pic to show how close the Shock does sit to the Load cell block,





This is where i ground for clearance on the Stock Leaky pos shock, I honestly don't see where this is helping as far as clearance for the Mugen shock as its cap is somewhat "taller" than the stock shock, but that's where i ground it.

TURNS out this was what was holding up the shock, So this must be shaved down. I will go and edit my other posts so guys know.




the Shock bushing needs to face a particular direction to allow the pin to get through the hole. pics should explain.



 
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First I would l like to thank Nick again for the PM's and the pictures posted here, that really helped me with getting the Mugen XB6 shocks to fit on my CSP's.

I 100% recommend this mod for any CSP v2 owners who feel dissatisfied with the feel of the brake pedal. Lets face it, the stock shock that Fanatec provides is a joke, it leaks like crazy and the stock spring is laughable. After I installed a Hillman spring ( bought at regular hardware store ) on the stock shock things did get a bit better but the pedal didn't feel smooth and the spring was putting a lot of strain on the shock assembly.

Someone over at the iRacing forums turned me onto the Mugen shocks for 1/5 scale buggies and I gotta say these things are leagues ahead of the stock shocks. Much better construction and seal ( no leak so far after many full compressions ) and a much stiffer yet smooth feel to the brakes. Because of the greater diameter of the Mugen's I was actually able to use springs out of my old G27 pedal set which meant my Nixim mod progressive spring fit like a glove. Now I have a nicely progressive feel to the brake pedals and is probably as close to a hydraulic brake feel as I am going to get out of the CSP's

Fitting the mugen's was tricky at first, I found that I wasn't able to pivot the shock enough to get the top to connect to the pedal arm. I thought at first that the aluminum block that houses the load cell was the problem but as Nick pointed out it's actually the shock mount itself that presents the obstacle. Nothing that 2 minutes with a dremmel won't fix. Once that is ground out of the way it fit perfectly!

I picked up the Mugen's from Tower Hobbies for about $35 bucks + shipping and they were at my door in less than 5 days.

Its almost like I got a whole new pedal set - the feel is trully THAT much better.
 
If anyone wants to improve how the factory shock feels, flip it around! The reservoir of these shocks is actually designed to be on the top. Why? If it's on the bottom like from the factory, there will always be some air behind the piston and the first 1-2cm of travel (the most important part) won't be damped properly.

First I would advise you to take apart the shock and bleed it properly, otherwise this trick won't help you much if there's still air inside the system. To flip the shock around, you only need to push out the small ball joint from the black plastic end and re-mount the shock with the reservoir on top. Now the unit actually functions like it's designed to and the entire travel is damped.

By doing this, the shock feels like a completely different unit to me.

0WBAP0n.jpg
 
Yeah I really gotta agree with you there. The MBX6 + Nixim spring combo I have going on so far is a dream. The progressive spring gives it a nice soft initial push for when you just need to brush the brakes and a firm response when its time to treshold brake or trail brake.
 
Matrixi
The stock unit is indeed craptastic. With a $0 budget, inverting it makes a night/day difference however.
Click to expand...
I even considered building my own spring only solution for the pedals using what I could find at the hardware store but no such luck in finding something easy that would drop in quickly without major modifications

Actually, for a little while there I replaced the stock CSP spring with a hillman spring i bought at home hardware.. not sure the size/dimensions but it slipped right in and fit perfectly on the stock shock. Much much heavier spring made the whole thing a bit better for sure but not perfect.
 
Hey guys, been reading over this thread, and have learned quite a bit about my Clubsport Pedals. Obviously I didn't have a clue what I was getting into when I upgraded from V1 to V2.

I got my V2's when they were originally released along with a CSR Elite, pulled them out of the box, removed my V1's, and hooked them up to begin racing. I never noticed the oil in the box, just put the box in my garage and sold the V1's.

So this entire time I've been racing without any oil in the shock.... any chance that would have damaged the shock? Could I now add oil or should I not? Any thoughts? If I do put oil in, how much?
 
StLCards
Hey guys, been reading over this thread, and have learned quite a bit about my Clubsport Pedals. Obviously I didn't have a clue what I was getting into when I upgraded from V1 to V2.

I got my V2's when they were originally released along with a CSR Elite, pulled them out of the box, removed my V1's, and hooked them up to begin racing. I never noticed the oil in the box, just put the box in my garage and sold the V1's.

So this entire time I've been racing without any oil in the shock.... any chance that would have damaged the shock? Could I now add oil or should I not? Any thoughts? If I do put oil in, how much?
Click to expand...


Chances of the shock leaking are Very good, so O-ring's would be needed at minimum.
 
If shouldn't really have damaged anything I don't think. Its a good chance the seals are still good on it. If they are not, I found Plumbers tape to be an adequate fix.

Make sure you use the proper oil and fill the whole shock all the way to the top, bleed all air out of it and then attach the piggy back. Fill that as well and bleed it well. The more air you can get out of it the better.

Either way, don't expect the shocks NOT to leak, 1 they were not designed to hold pressure that way and 2 they are garbage to begin with so leaks are to be expected.
 
You could try filling the shock and cycling it slowly to see if there's any leakage. If the shock has been tested at the factory before shipping, you might be alright if there's been enough fluid residue left inside the shock cylinder to prevent the piston seals from wearing out.
 
if memory serves me right the shocks come bone dry from the factory. Not a drop of oil has touched the insides or at least that was the case with mine =S
 
same here, Bone dry for me. I even disassembled the entire shock as i wanted to see what kind of o-rings they were using and was again disappointed. No grease and pis poor o-rings that barely grab the shaft. tisk tisk tisk
 
Thanks guys, I plan on taking them apart this weekend to investigate, I'll make sure to get some new rings and I already have plumbers tape so I should be good to go.

I bought another set of V2's with my Clubsport wheel upgrade couple weeks ago, I'll get the new ones done first before I mount them then tackle the older set.
 
Yeah I am pretty sure you can find videos on yourube about how to properly assemble and bleed out the shocks. Its important to do it properly or it won't work at it's optimum.
 
So I've had my V2 for a little over a year now and ive noticed no matter how hard i push on the Brake pedal i can only get about 50-60% on the profiler and thats with the dial up to 10. Is it time to pick up a new load cell?
 
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Well well I just had a load cell drop as well. Discovered it last night.....I was getting weird read outs on the profiler but More so how i noticed it was the Load cell amp adjustment knob seemed to cease functioning......Poke at the Load cell wires and sure enough it would come alive and go dead and act very strange. So i shortened the wires on the Ebay unit and sure enough you have to swap the 2 outside wires. I Thought i had a connector small enough turns out I didn't so I just re-soldered the stock connector to the new load cell. So wiring would be Black to white Red to red and White to black.

These wires are Quite small, so Some actual Soldering skills are required.





I also raised the hole in the brake and JUST now this very second i feel it and WOW is that different. Look forward to testing it out.
 
Some guys asked about the shock Assembly being the Mugens from ebay come Un assembled, Obviously myself being a Rc Nut its common knowledge on how to assemble and build a a shock properly....So here's a manual for you guys





Step 20 Page 22.



http://www.mugenseiki.co.jp/mugen/download/manual/manual_e2001.pdf





One Word of warning. Use the SMALL 2.6 nut on the shock Shaft that captures the piston NOT the 3mm nut. You will regret it down the road if you do. lol



Also just apply a small amount of grease to the O-rings and your Golden,

For Building a perfect shock refer to this video please. Different shock but exact same method. You want a "DEAD" shock. No rebound.



 
So has anyone snapped the kinda hokey thingamajig that shoots off the side of the pedal mounting. Or bent the piston that is part of the shock absorber doohickey which the spring encapsulates by using a spring that is too sturdy or otherwise modding the brake to make more resistance? I skimmed the thread bud didn't see any posts that started with "F$@#! Now there is oil everywhere..." So I'm guessing no one has or it is not possible (as in there is a different point of weakness that broke first.)
 
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Okay guys, I did a little mod on my CSP's. Well... mod is an overstatement, maybe.

What I did was replace the metal blocks behind the pedal plates with nylon washers around each screw. This allowed me to slightly change the distance of the pedal plate from the lever, as well as having more control over the angle of the plates.

Here are a few pictures. I know I've got my plates set up quite similarly, but they do feel different once you drive. Plus you have more control over the angle by varying the tension of each screw as well as adding/deducting more rings around the upper or lower screw.

Personally due to my Richard Hammond like body length, and the way the rSeat is build I went for less distance between the plate and lever. So that the neutral position would be more of an incline. Yet I have slight different angles on each pedal to give each their own feel.

The reason why I have this is because I can't angle down the rSeat pedal plate further. Firstly because there is a Buttkicker Mini-LFE under there. Secondly and more importantly, the pedals would physically be too far away for my feet to comfortably reach.
Now I hear you guys say, shove them closer towards yourself. I can, but the C-frame of the steering wheel is already seated against the pedal plate. So moving the pedal plate closer also means moving the steering wheel closer, which results in me having the T500 against my chest (mostly because the T500 hangs more over the edge of the rSeat mount or your table than any other wheel).


Anyways... these are the difference.

Comparison shots:






All pedals done:





 

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