Fanatec CSW/CSR Elite Modders Thread *UPDATE February 2014*

  • Thread starter eKretz
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Blue028
If the wobble is a problem with the collar on the shaft that you can't fix (they did have some issues with stripping the threads out on the 2 locking bolts) don't stress I have spares :)
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This is a worry I have with my CSR-E. The collar stripping out. Don't understand why they even threaded the collar. I recently re-did the loctite on the 5 collar bolts and the two that hold the wheel on as they kept loosening up. How many spare collars do you have?
 
Blue028
WOW that's a real bargain! Mine was 10X that amount when I got it here!!

If the wobble is a problem with the collar on the shaft that you can't fix (they did have some issues with stripping the threads out on the 2 locking bolts) don't stress I have spares :)
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My collar is pretty hashed. I haven't taken it apart but the previous owner did an ugly but effective fix. I might be interested in a new collar too!
 
I have had look through my things and I only have 2 spare collars, one of which I will need to repair. Will probably end up tapping a larger thread into it as I don't think I have a re-coil kit at work that small
 
Wow, I'm glad to see so much support here! S the wheel arrived today, and to my surprise it is actually quite nice. The loose wheel was in fact the two bolts, one was stripped so I tapped the threads up to M6 and now the fitment is super solid. This elite does have the common issue where the shaft can move in and out slightly. I will be repairing this either by disassembling and installing shims between the c-clips and bearings or if I am lucky by fitting a couple e-clips with everything assembled. Overall it is quite nice, I will include some photos below. Don't mind the ugly hex head bolt, I didn't have a short Allen cap head bolt on hand so this will be replaced with stainless or matching black bolts. I havent had a chance to power the wheel up yet and try it out in game but everything seems to be in order. I will certainly report back once I have a chance to test it out after work tomorrow.

Blue: I am interested in the PCB and some other spare parts, I just have to see how much shipping would be because I am in USA. I didn't notice the fact that we are in different countries lol. I believe Fanatec will sell the PCB upon request, I'm not sure on the cost but I heard it was only like $65! I could be wrong though. Let me know what you think, have you ever shipped to the US before? If so was it expensive?

Here are some pics of the wheel, I haven't had a chance to clean up the rim yet but you can see it isn't in bad condition. The first couple pics are when I had the wheel case partially removed.
WP_20151102_001.jpg WP_20151102_002.jpg WP_20151102_003.jpg WP_20151102_004.jpg WP_20151102_005.jpg WP_20151102_006.jpg WP_20151102_007.jpg WP_20151102_008.jpg WP_20151102_009.jpg
 
Looking good! I kind of mis the stock look every now and then, makes me realise how far my wheel has come haha.
I have not shipped anything before, let alone to the states. I'm not sure what the cost would be, I'll have to pop into a post office when I get the chance and find out. The exchange rate at the moment should work in your favour though as the dollar here has dropped dramatically recently

Edit: Regarding were you tapped the new threads, did you tap new threads on both parts of the collar (base and rim)? If so I highly recomend drilling a clean hole through the collar on the base and have the thread only on the wheel rim. This is what causes them to strip

Edit 2: just checked online and will cost around $30-$40AUD to ship up to 2kg via sea mail depending on the weight of the package, heavier it is the more it will cost
 
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Hey Blue, yes I did tap through both, in fact I tapped through the section attached to the base, and only partway into the adapter on the rim. This way the bolt really need some force to go all the way through and the fitment is super tight. I have actually though about using countersunk bolts, that way the taper will sit in the socket and take the brunt of the forces. I could always drill out the outer whole so it is not threaded, but I like how tight it is with the bolt going through both threads. I can see how this will cause undo force on the threads though, which I'm hoping I can combat by using countersunk bolts. Also, the threads on the underside are perfect and the original bolt is still being used.

As far as the PCB goes, that shipping price isn't horrible. How much would you want for the PCB? And do you have any other spare parts you'd like to get rid of?

Edit:you can pm or email me if you want, email is: Scaudi7187@gmail.com

Edit 2: I have powered on the wheel and it appears there is something else out of wack. The wheel is turned about 80* to the left when it should be centered. There is a little metal pin on the encoder wheel that lines up with the position sensor to set the center position and this is lining up properly when the wheel is at 80* left. I am thinking that the female end of the adapter hub (the side on shaft) was removed and put back on wrong as the hard lock points are slightly off too. I will have to look after work and see if this is the case. Any advise is greatly appreciated as I am new to this wheel design :) just to confirm the securing bolts on the wheel rim hub attachment should face directly up and down, correct?
 
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Turn the wheel on and when it finnished calibrating turn it to the center yourself and press the two lower orange buttons together, it will set the new center position. How far out is the wheel at full lock?
 
Hey blue, I did try the two lower buttons, this is how I center my regular csr. Unfortunately this did not work. I also see that there are two wire jumpers that were soldered onto the board by someone, so obviously there was a repair done in the past. I definitely want to replace the PCB so whenever you get a chance let me know how much you would like for yours. Also, is it possible to see a couple pics of the PCB you have, I just want to compare it to mine to see what was changed on mine. I would also like to buy the two position sensors (zero and wheel position) if you have them.

As far as the end points go, they aren't far off. I think this is due to the in/out movement of the shaft, I will be trying to order shims to correct this.

If possible would anyone be able to look inside their csre or csw and tell me if the pin that is coming out of the wheel axis encoder wheel lines up with the "zero" sensor when the wheel is centered or if this pin is positioned elsewhere when the wheel is centered. This is the pin that acts as one of the screws that hold the encoder wheel to the pulley. On older fanatec wheels there is a piece of metal glued to the pulley that has to line up with the zero sensor when the wheel is centered, this means the wheel can only be centered when close to center I believe. I want to see if this is the case with the csw/elite or if my pin being away from the sensor when the wheel is centered is normal. The zero sensor is the one right next to the position sensor, it has two eyes that the pin passes between on each rotation. My pin ends up at about 5oclock and the zero sensor is at about 7oclock (looking from back of wheel) hopefully someone is familiar with this pin or can check to confirm its position when the rim is centered. The hub adapter seems to be straight as the pin hole lines up and the big black pulley appears to be in the correct position as the holes in the pulley face up and down when the wheel is centered, which seems to be the way all the pictures I've seen are. Any help would be much appreciated :)

If it will help I can get some pics posted of the pin and its location when my rim is centered. I was testing the wheel quickly without a USB cable plugged in so I will try to do some more diagnosis with the wheel hooked up to my laptop.
 
I will check what I have when I get home from work, I saw your list on the isrtv forum and I'm pretty sure I have most if not all on that list.

I'll get some photos of the internals on mine tonight for you, from memory the zero pin doesn't line up with the sensor, the wheel just uses it as a guide to get its Centre position.
 
Ok cool, just let me know what you have. I spent some more time with the wheel tonight, I got it to center when hooked up to the PC but it is wonky. It keeps not reading steering input sometimes (ill turn the wheel but it wont show movement the whole time in driver, it is sporadic.) I also noticed that my base does not have an on /off button, or a hole for an on/off button in the front of the base, so I guess I have an older model. There isn't even a black sticker on the bottom, just a white serial number sticker, so it may very well be a beta or first production model. Fortunately the motors seem strong! I'm thinking the issue is the two wheel position sensors, and/or the PCB. Those are mainly the only electronics asside from the motors so it has to be one of those three things. Let mw know when you have a chance to look, hopefully we can get this thing going :)
 
here are most of the working spare parts i have, i do have other hardware bits but they are parts that will likely never need replacing.
20151104_182223_zpsjkv5pyny.jpg


pcb (first time its been taken out of the packaging)
20151104_182233_zpsqg7dclqt.jpg


and here is the shot of my zero pin location, wheel is turned 180 degrees

20151104_182423_zpsxfxpplst.jpg


sorry for the poor quality photos

edit: if theres no power button how do you turn the wheel on? i have not seen that before
 
The photos are perfect, no worries. Ok, so the power button wasn't on the first run of bases, or at least the beta models. I found a bunch of promotional pics online with only and Xbox button. I would just drill my front plate to accommodate the on/off button when I swap the PCB.

My pin is in the same place:)

I will happily take most of those spare parts, let me know how much you would like in AUD for the PCB, on/off switch assembly, the two sensors, and one of the hub adapters. I'm afraid a motor block, and angled plate will make the package too heavy otherwise I'd see about those as well. My motors seem to work well though and I think I can buy them from Fanatec if they fail and I really have to. I just want to get the wheel working first and I think with the PCB, sensors, and on/off switch I can do that. Just let me know how much you would like to get before shipping, as long as it isn't more than what I can afford I will absolutely buy them. Also, are the sensors you have both the same, or is one the zero sensor and one the position sensor? if they are the same ill probably only need one but will take both if you want to sell both of them. Thank you so much for all of the help you have given me btw, I dont know where I would have turned to for help if I hadn't found it here:) I will eagerly await your response! Lol.

Edit: I see the sensors are in fact different, so I would like both if possible. Thanks again.
 
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Hey Seth, get the other hub for meeeeee... i'll buy it from you, but overall it'll save time and shipping methinks.
 
Gunstar
Hey Seth, get the other hub for meeeeee... i'll buy it from you, but overall it'll save time and shipping methinks.
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Ok, I will see if I can make that happen. I'm not sure what the cost will be for the items I need yet but my goal is to buy as much as I can afford to purchase and ship. If I am able to afford it and Blue is willing to sell both than I will absolutely grab the extra hub and ship it to you once it arrives. I would love to buy the angled clamp, belts and a motor block too but I dont know what the cost will be yet for the parts I really need or if that will make the weight too high. I am waiting to see where I am at with the parts I know I definitely need before finding out about the other items I'd like to have. I dont want to be a pain in the butt, especially since Blue has been very helpful thus far lol. The PCB, sensors, and power/xbox buttons are most important, the other stuff would be nice to have too though. As soon as I know what's up we'll see if we can make a plan :)
 
Sure, let me know. It's a small part. Heck, if you want to deal for the other stuff and we can split shipping and I can take a motor block too let me know, I'd probably be into that. I already have a belts set.
 
Np, I will certainly let you know as soon as I have more info. I'm sure we can work something out. I would much rather buy everything if I can and if you want a hub and maybe a motor block than that may help because that means ill be that much more likely to be able to afford everything. I think he said shipping would be about 30-40 aud if it is under a certain weight, I'm not sure if that weight is less or more than what the items collectively will weigh. Never the less I will see what happens when I talk to blue and go from there.
 
Well the PCB cost me 60aud, if I can get that for it it I will be happy, as for the other parts whatever you guys think is a reasonable price I'm happy.

I forgot to mention in my post earlier that one of the motor sets will need the plug soldered onto it, the other one is fine though

I will weigh everything together tonight so Ill see what the shipping will come to for the whole lot
 
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Hey Blue, $60 aud for the PCB is fine, would another $30aud be sufficient for the remaining items? I dont know if that is too low or not but that would be a total of $90 aud plus shipping costs. If that works for you I will be happy to pay that. I will also offer a motor set and/or hub to gunstar for whatever price he thinks is fair plus shipping of whatever he buys from me to him. Let me know what happens with shipping and if that price is ok for everything. Thanks again, Seth.
 
Depending on the shipping cost I would be happy with 100AUD plus shipping for the lot, if the shipping is a bit more than expected I will settle for 90AUD. Sound alright?

Still working on getting everything weighed, I thought i had a small set of scales here but it seems not, will let you know as soon as I can
 
Ok, that works for me :) just let me know. The only concern I have is the PCB, sensors, and on/off switch not being damaged by the heavier items during transit. I was trying to think of ways that it could be protected, like maybe by putting them in a smaller box inside of the main box, or maybe they can go underneath/inside the angled plate at the bottom. That way the angled plate will protect from the items above. Let me know what you think, I'm sure everything will be fine, I just worry about the carrier being rough in transit and the weight of a motor or something knocking off a capacitor or sensors eye or something. Well figure that out when it comes time to ship though. Also, I usually send payment via paypal friends and family, so you shouldn't get charged PayPal fees if that helps.
 
Gunstar
Sure, let me know. It's a small part. Heck, if you want to deal for the other stuff and we can split shipping and I can take a motor block too let me know, I'd probably be into that. I already have a belts set.
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Hey gunstar, as I'm sure you can see from past posts, it looks like I am going to buy everything. If you want a hub or motor I can do that. I'm mot sure what the final price I pay for everything with shipping will be quite yet but all I ask is that you pay for shipping from me to you and whatever you think is fair to pay for the hub and/or motor block based on what I paid. I'm not looking to profit or anything, as long as I don't loose lol. Also, dont feel obligated to buy a motor block as well, I know one block needs a lead soldered back on so it may not be something you want to mess with. Either way is fine with me, I just wanted to let you know what's going on and that I'm happy to let go of a hub and/or motor block if you want me to.
 
Don't stress, I've already packaged everything and I think you'll be happy with how everything is protected :)

Just need to work out the shipping now, hopefully I can get it weighed soon, I think I can pinch a scale from work so fingers crossed
 
Okey doke. I'm just a worry wort lol, but I trust your packing skills :) No rush on getting the shipping info, depending in the total I may have to wait to send payment till I get paid on Saturday anyways if thats ok with you. Thanks again for working with me btw, I am excited to get this wheel going!

I've still been working on the wheel in the meantime. I've been grinding down a couple snap rings to .5 and 1mm thickness to put between the front and rear bearings and stock snap rings. I will play around with different thicknesses in the front and back until I find a combo that allows the wheel to lock at the same point on both sides and wont allow the wheel shaft to move in and out. Right now the lock is close, to the right it stops right at the halfway point between up and down, or at 90* from straight up and down. It moves smooth to this point and stops immediately. To the left the wheel makes it almost to the 90* from straight up and down mark but not quite, maybe 75-80* from straight up and down (of course the wheel faces left when turned to left, and right when turned to right, and the number of rotations is correct, I am using 90* as a reference for how far the wheel turns from straight up and down on last rotation, to dead lock. Not the number of degrees from when the wheel is centered, just to be clear). Also when turning to the left there is a bit of dampening or increased resistance for the last few degrees before lock. Similar to the feeling of the last 80* or so on a t500 if anyone is familiar. Except the t500 has the same feeling in each direction. I will keep tinkering until I get it worked out. Ill be really excited if I can get it working well with the parts currently installed, because then I will have the parts in buying as backups :)
 
seth francis
Hey gunstar, as I'm sure you can see from past posts, it looks like I am going to buy everything. If you want a hub or motor I can do that. I'm mot sure what the final price I pay for everything with shipping will be quite yet but all I ask is that you pay for shipping from me to you and whatever you think is fair to pay for the hub and/or motor block based on what I paid. I'm not looking to profit or anything, as long as I don't loose lol. Also, dont feel obligated to buy a motor block as well, I know one block needs a lead soldered back on so it may not be something you want to mess with. Either way is fine with me, I just wanted to let you know what's going on and that I'm happy to let go of a hub and/or motor block if you want me to.
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Yeah, I'm down, reach out when you have the goodies and we will work it all out. Thanks to Blue028 as well for being the man!
 
I will certainly reach out as soon as they arrive.

Yes Blue certainly is the man, I am quite happy that I have come across his posts. With these spare parts I should basically have a replacement for every single electronic component in my elite wheel. My biggest worry with SIM racing (and I am someone who worries much more than I should about everything in life lol) is that one of my pieces of hardware will fail and I wont be able to easily locate replacement parts. Too bad there aren't parts readily available for all wheels :/ Being able to purchase all of the most important components for the elite at one time really eases my mind. While I worry alot I also get excited over silly things, and I am definitely excited about getting these parts and working on my wheel :) Thanks again Blue!
 
Well I'm glad I could help :)

In regards to the wheel breaking down I don't think you will have any issues, I have had mine for nearly four years now and the only problem I had was with the stock motors and I did kill one pcb but though my own fault. Even now for the past yeah or so pushing my wheel with a much stronger motor than stock (~300w compared to 120w stock) I have not had any issues whatsoever. It really is a great wheel and if you decide to start modding it really can be rewarding.

Sorry if I've been a bit slow on replying, I still haven't managed to get the package weighed yet but I'll let you know as soon as I do
 

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