Fanatec CSW/CSR Elite Modders Thread *UPDATE February 2014*

  • Thread starter eKretz
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Nice! So basically you had to add the 9th wire for the power button cable+determine polarity and make sure the firmware was updated to the latest firmware to add compatibility with the new hub? In other words any csw would have had that issue on old firmware? I really like the idea of converting, would be a fun project.
 
By hooking up the 8 pin cable the power button and LEDs don't work but if I jiggle it in the connector I can get the wheel to power on. I managed to fluke getting into bootloader mode by doing this. I'm just using this as a work around until the new cable arrives.

But yeah if the firmware isn't up to date on the wheelbase it won't recognize the universal hub when it's connected and it has a fit
 
@eKretz i've read your advice on the belt slipping from a csw base over at racedepartment (post is old though may 2014).
However, i have the wheel off centre now as well.

You speak of cleaning the sensor, diodes and other stuff. Can you tell me where i can find them if the base?
I would like to see if the are dirty and try cleaning them like you suggest

thx alot
 
@eKretz i've read your advice on the belt slipping from a csw base over at racedepartment (post is old though may 2014).
However, i have the wheel off centre now as well.

You speak of cleaning the sensor, diodes and other stuff. Can you tell me where i can find them if the base?
I would like to see if the are dirty and try cleaning them like you suggest

thx alot
This might not really help with locating them, but serve more as a heads up. The code wheel (the clear disk with black stripes on it right behind the red pulley, that the code wheel sensor is hooked to ;)) is pretty easy to scratch. The stripes are just painted on (V1 not sure about V2) and will flake off. Be careful when messing with it and I wouldn't use any kind of cleaner on it as it may remove the paint.
 
thanks for the headsup, i wasn't sure it served any perpose at all.
i was thinking of removing it pure for esthetic reasons
 
it looks like i scratched some of the black lines on the codewheel, so i'll have to send it back to Fanatec to fix it
bummer
 
i wasn't. I opened up the unit to see what was making a funny noise when turning right.
I guess i have scratched the code wheel in the process myself :ill:

i thought i found a temporary solution by unscrewing the code wheel and screwing it back on with the damaged bars on top.
As i only use about 350 degrees of rotation, they would not pass the sensor and the alignment would still be ok.

I ran a few test and all was well, but it looks like it has returned :banghead:
 
I had this issue with CSW. I asked eKretz if he knew a fix a while back. If I remember correctly it can be fixed with some very skinny masking tape and some kind of paint.

Sorry its a bit vague but you get the idea.
 
Looking to install a slip ring in my csw. Are you guys soldering both ends, are are you popping the wires out if the pcb plug and inserting the slip ring wires in? Any help is appreciated
 
Looking to install a slip ring in my csw. Are you guys soldering both ends, are are you popping the wires out if the pcb plug and inserting the slip ring wires in? Any help is appreciated

I solder one end to the QR connector pins, then remove the original pins from the PCB plug, crimp new pins to the slip ring wires and insert them into the original connector.
 
Hi, is there a video or pics showing how to best install load cell replacement on the Fanatec Elite pedals? All I find on search are for the CSP's. Not sure if I can install them without removing the pedals from the frame (ie. from the top only), and if I have to unscrew the strength dial too? Sorry, as I'm relatively new to Fanatecs. TIA.
 
Hey guys it's been a while!
I regret to say that it's time to sell my uber impressive Buhler modded CSR Elite by Eric.
My most enjoyable moment sim racing have been had with this wheel :)

I have moved to CS V2 with X1 hub (although slightly disappointed with horrible FFB on Forza 6 atm) hopefully they work on this in the near future.

Anyways I am selling my Elite base and rim, V2 pedals, PSU, Air compressor for cooling, tubing and anything else that the kit comes with.

I will also be happy to include my custom milled aluminum steering wheel hub adapter that accepts 6 bolt pattern and 3 bolt pattern small rim race wheels.

I know I don't have to explain how badass Eric's wheels are in this company so I will spare those expletives...it's so awesome I hate to see it go but no need for 2 wheels.

Feel free to contact me for more details or to discuss shipping at 479-353-4484.
 
Guys,
i received my Modpack from eric today, but i have not a single clue where to connect the Meanwell Power Supply? Do i cut the original wire of the Powersupply which i plug in the Wheel/PCM?
 
Got it, the outer "shield" was V-.

Its all running now but it feels very very weird. Maybe - can some1 share the FFB settings for Games like Assetto Corsa, Dirt Rally or Project Cars with me?

Thx in advance
 
Make 100% sure to kill the Dampening in the .ini files We used to have access to this in the Pit menu, but not anymore.

Under Systems/cfg/assetto_corsa.ini

Should be the first .ini under ppfilters Double click that and look for FF_EXPERIMENTAL

damper Gain needs to be at 0 Anything above 0 and its shat feeling.



There's also a few other thing's you could turn on while in there as well,

Gyro effect, Dev Apps, Free Camera and Soft Lock.

1 means ON, 0 means OFF
 

Yep that's it. A friend tried it and it worked a treat. Try to work out what scratched it of in the first place. Good luck.

I know its a bit off topic but worth sharing. Over xmas I brought 4 Dayton Pucks and a 4 channel amp along with simvibe. Running it in chassis mode the sensation is unbelievably good. $150 all in and I can feel each individual corner/tyre. Buttkickers are overkill and cost 4 times the price and not needed when you have 4 smaller 1's.
 
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Yep that's it. A friend tried it and it worked a treat. Try to work out what scratched it of in the first place. Good luck.

I know its a bit off topic but worth sharing. Over xmas I brought 4 Dayton Pucks and a 4 channel amp along with simvibe. Running it in chassis mode the sensation is unbelievably good. $150 all in and I can feel each individual corner/tyre. Buttkickers are overkill and cost 4 times the price and not needed when you have 4 smaller 1's.


:odd: Dont knock it till you tried it. Genuine BK's Mop the floor with the cheaper Dayton style pucks. 1 Gamer 2 will have more tactile than 4 of your daytons combined.
 
:odd: Dont knock it till you tried it. Genuine BK's Mop the floor with the cheaper Dayton style pucks. 1 Gamer 2 will have more tactile than 4 of your daytons combined.

Was hoping to not hijack this thread really. Just to bring things back to all things German and broken I've downed a pint of courage and replaced the cacky nasty brass pins in the CSW quick release with some of these.

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Produ...rtTY7OjphKQg6awh5bXSIPXhcmomm9uU_5xoCWHzw_wcB


http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/indus...5522677633D4E4F4E45267573743D3533312D37393026

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/indus...5522677633D4E4F4E45267573743D3533312D37363226




Not doubting they do Nick but its complete overkill. I can have mine running when the kids are in bed. Could you imagine having 4 of your Gamer 2's giving you the effects of a rumble strip? When you need to feel the effects on individual body parts the pucks work perfectly if placed correctly. The Buttkickers can easily dislodge perfectly good fillings and 1 has the ability to shake the rig more than 4 of mine i'm 100% sure of but its the old sledge hammer to crack a nut scenario.

My point is the pucks work perfectly for less than 1/4 the price and let me feel each individual contact patch/suspension movement. You dont need to spend $800, the homebrew pucks give you all the indication you need that you have over/understeer and work fine without the sledge hammer effects the big boys boast. It was a bit of an xmas holiday project that i refused to spend silly amounts of money on until I felt the effects were worth the massive outlay of the expensive equipment. So I can say with every certain Sim Commander/Simvibe is very good indeed and I would feel happy now spending more money on it if I needed to, which I dont :)
 
I also Had a QR pin break about a month or so back in my BMW wheel. Curious as to Why not just borrow a pin from one of the un used slots ? This site was super handy when i originally seen it.


http://fanatec.redfirecracker.co.uk/


Im out of pins. Ive used every spare one i've got from 2 rims. Both my rims are very old and probably from the 1st batch. That plus I love strong FFB so this time i was looking at a permanent fix. 8 left in the BMW and 9 in the Formula. Im out of quick fixes.
 
oh my, I guess its a shame the Creator of the Repair Page hasn't updated with where to get those "D pins" from....Or at the one's you found Exact replacements ?
 
Hey guys, just thought I'd post this hear to see if I have any luck. I am looking for the following CSW/CSRE parts:
1) CSW/CSRE top window
2) CSW/CSRE back plastic cover
3) CSW/CSRE optical wheel
4) CSW/CSRE power supply
5) CSW PCB
6) any other random CSW components, just let me know what you may have

Edit: Most parts can be from either wheel, I dont mind which unless it is the PCB.

I am in Branford Ct USA and I can pay via PayPal. Will consider paying international shipping for harder to find items like the window, back cover, optical wheel etc. You can contact me here via PM and I will give you my email or phone number.
Thank you for your time, Seth.
 
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Ekritz: no I would just like one or the other. I know they are mostly the same so I don't care which wheel the part came from. Even if I find an elite back cover I think I can trim the opening around the plugs to make it fit. The words wont line up but I dont mind that if I cant find a proper csw version.
 
Hi guys, shortly after getting my motors real life got awful busy so the sim racing had to take a back seat. Since I have started using it, every now and then the wheel is half power and/or it wont connect to the pc. Any ideas? (haven't tried reflashing firmware, I'm scared it may never work again!)
P.S well done Eric on such an amazing mod kit, it still blows my mind (and my arms), forgot how much I love it!

(its a csre)
 
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