- 92
- GTP_Pooks
Marko is it possible the wiring on the new motors are the wrong way around? I had the same issue and that fixed mine.
Fanatec CSW/CSR Elite Modders Thread *UPDATE February 2014*
- Thread starter eKretz
- 3,607 comments
- 605,118 views
- 4,150
- Ottawa
Just wanted to signal, that I also had a motor in my CSR-E starting to have issues.
Sent the video to Fanatec support, within 2 days of me sending the video it was agreed that fanatec would send me a replacement. I received the motors assembly shortly after.👍
Replacing the motor assembly took very little time, the toughest part was sliding the belt back. Overall it was very easy, even somehow pleasant.
The wheel is back to 100%, seems smoother than ever, but it could be placebo effect from the satisfaction of installing it myself.
So it is too bad the wheel had an issue, but I am very satisfied with the way it was fixed and I am recommending this wheel more than ever.👍
Sent the video to Fanatec support, within 2 days of me sending the video it was agreed that fanatec would send me a replacement. I received the motors assembly shortly after.👍
Replacing the motor assembly took very little time, the toughest part was sliding the belt back. Overall it was very easy, even somehow pleasant.
The wheel is back to 100%, seems smoother than ever, but it could be placebo effect from the satisfaction of installing it myself.
So it is too bad the wheel had an issue, but I am very satisfied with the way it was fixed and I am recommending this wheel more than ever.👍
- 12
- Austria
Sorry for beeing a bit offtopic, but my CSW modding project is on hold as I'm a bit fed up and bought a used Frex Mk1, but I think this one could also be interesting for CSW owners:
I want to watercool my 38mm Frex motor, but I'm a bit unsure what type of "heatpipe" (I'm missing the correct english term) would be more sufficient:
http://www.peter-modellbau.com/product_info.php?products_id=90474
or
http://modellbau-guru.eshop.t-onlin.../?ObjectPath=/Shops/Shop30842/Products/WK-002
(I don't think that the hottie is included in the price :/)
If I'm right, the first one runs the water DIRECTLY on the motor inside the hull? That would pretty much kill the motor - right?
Shige himself uses this type of cooling jacket:
Which one should I prefer if I had the choice?
I want to watercool my 38mm Frex motor, but I'm a bit unsure what type of "heatpipe" (I'm missing the correct english term) would be more sufficient:
http://www.peter-modellbau.com/product_info.php?products_id=90474
or
http://modellbau-guru.eshop.t-onlin.../?ObjectPath=/Shops/Shop30842/Products/WK-002
(I don't think that the hottie is included in the price :/)
If I'm right, the first one runs the water DIRECTLY on the motor inside the hull? That would pretty much kill the motor - right?
Shige himself uses this type of cooling jacket:
Which one should I prefer if I had the choice?
- 1,603
- IN
- Eric_J2358
The tube is more efficient and should give better, more equal cooling. The jackets can have stagnant flow that doesn't cool the can well and can allow hotspots to develop. The tube basically forces all the heat to be removed since the water is forced to circulate completely and evenly all the way around and down the motor can. Ideally you could get a jacket that had a spiral groove on the inside to route the water, but if the cans aren't waterproof you can't use them anyways.
- 12
- Austria
with tube you mean that spiral, correct? already thought so, thanks for confirmation!
Just need to find a fitting radiator/bump/connectors and tubing for that ^^
Just need to find a fitting radiator/bump/connectors and tubing for that ^^
Hey guys I'm new in this forum, but I am not new in Fanatec experience, I have changed 4 times the base plus a engines set, I'm on the other side of the pond, so the language is Spanish, my name is kuilsi and i've sent to my team-mate some photos of the installation of new engines to upload. I hope it's useful .... http://community.eu.playstation.com/t5/Gran-Turismo/Oficial-Volantes-GT5/td-p/12368557/page/59
- 1,603
- IN
- Eric_J2358
Hi Kuilsi, it might be better to start a new thread and post all your pictures with a sort of guide to make it easier to find for people doing that job that need help. You might title it something like "Fanatec CSW/CSR Elite Motor Replacement Guide" or something of that nature to make it easier for people to find it in search.
Finally moved the belt over one notch and drilled out the second set of threads. The difference in drag is noticeable. I highly recommend both of these mods and it was far easier than I thought it would be. The CSR-E is very easy to open and work on compared to the Porsche wheels. However, it has made the ffb drop far more apparent.
Should I buy copper tubing and a pump (already have a spare triple 120mm radiator) or will these new mods obviate the need for water cooling?
Hi Guys,
This not really a mod per se question, but it might be. I ordered a complete set of rims, base, and V2 pedals (CSW). The wheel has a plastic disk inside of it, that rotates along with the steering input.
There are tick marks, hash marks, black lines (not sure what to call them) throughout what seems to be 360 degrees (I guess).
The problem is my new wheel has areas of that disk that are rubbed off or not present. Clearly this is a defective wheel, as my CS Elite's disk is intact and all marks are present.
Would my problem be cause for the wheel not to center, not to calibrate correctly, and have a deadzone of about 10 degrees right in the center?
I follow the defective area of the disk as I rotate the wheel and the marks coincide with the mechanical center of the wheel's rotation.
I've initiated a return, claim, RMA, etc... but I was wondering if that would be the culprit for the faulty wheel? Seems very coincidental.
I've attached a photo.
Thanks in advance.
JC
This not really a mod per se question, but it might be. I ordered a complete set of rims, base, and V2 pedals (CSW). The wheel has a plastic disk inside of it, that rotates along with the steering input.
There are tick marks, hash marks, black lines (not sure what to call them) throughout what seems to be 360 degrees (I guess).
The problem is my new wheel has areas of that disk that are rubbed off or not present. Clearly this is a defective wheel, as my CS Elite's disk is intact and all marks are present.
Would my problem be cause for the wheel not to center, not to calibrate correctly, and have a deadzone of about 10 degrees right in the center?
I follow the defective area of the disk as I rotate the wheel and the marks coincide with the mechanical center of the wheel's rotation.
I've initiated a return, claim, RMA, etc... but I was wondering if that would be the culprit for the faulty wheel? Seems very coincidental.
I've attached a photo.
Thanks in advance.
JC
- 2,801
- fatkrakr
Yes that will be the issue your having. I just had my wheel base replaced for the same reason, except I was only missing the marks on the very end of the code wheel and only 4 lines where effected. That was enough for the wheel to keep loosing center, so yours is probably having all kinds of issues.
Actually, there is a kit available for converting CSP V.1 Brake to a setup similar to what the CSP V.2 uses.
See this web page over at struvedesigns.com. There is also this thread about it over at ISR.
And see this August 2012 post by GTP member thehawk05 from the CSP V.2 Intro Thread for info on the CSP V.2's RC Shock. Fanatec still uses the same one as Teki's prototypes on the CSP V.2s, its just a different color for aesthetics.
I also made some modification for my brake
- two Tamiya (#54472) - RC TXT-2 Aluminum Dampers
- 6000 viscosity damper oil
- more hardened spring
Last edited:
- 1,603
- IN
- Eric_J2358
Yep, it is a pretty gradual drop in power until the thermocouple sends the power cut signal, so you might not notice it in some cases. I am a tradesman that worked with my hands for 20 years, so I have good feel, I noticed it right away. After long periods of racing, the wheel starts to feel more like it's sprung with a rubber band to me.
When the wheel gets hot and reduces power, my fans are blowing barely warmer than room temperature. The stock cooling system doesn't seem very effective to me. If you actually open the wheel base and touch the motors you'll see how hot they really get.
When the wheel gets hot and reduces power, my fans are blowing barely warmer than room temperature. The stock cooling system doesn't seem very effective to me. If you actually open the wheel base and touch the motors you'll see how hot they really get.
- 37
- Montreal
- Zalex
- Zalex_Qc
Anyone that tried to unplug a defectiver motor to see what it does ?
Does it still work with 50% of the FFB feeling and without Notchy feeling ?
I'm about to swap back to my G27, but I would survive with an Elite with one motor if it work and run smooth... it should be as strong as the G27 at 100%.
Does it still work with 50% of the FFB feeling and without Notchy feeling ?
I'm about to swap back to my G27, but I would survive with an Elite with one motor if it work and run smooth... it should be as strong as the G27 at 100%.
- 1
- California
- F4H_Bullet
Im new here. Have a CSR wheel. Could anyone direct me to a thread or even help with some good settings for the wheel on GT5? Would be much appreciated.
- 37
- Montreal
- Zalex
- Zalex_Qc
I'm used to play GT5 with the CSR Elite set as
SEN: 900 or OFF
FF: 100
SHO: 100
DRI: 000
ABS: 100
LIN: 0
DEA: 0
SPR: 0
DPR: 0
Have fun
- 4,150
- Ottawa
I'm used to play GT5 with the CSR Elite set as
SEN: 900 or OFF
FF: 100
SHO: 100
DRI: 000
ABS: 100
LIN: 0
DEA: 0
SPR: 0
DPR: 0
Have fun
I am using a very similar set up, you might want to try spr and dpr at off instead of zero, I used to be at zero but like it better now that I put it at off.
Let me know what you think.
- 403
- SF/CA/USA
- posiloan
- posixmosh
You should look in to buying a more substantial ballscrew and anti backlash mechanism before you update any motors on this device. Otherwise you will bend or bind the original one frex used.Sorry for beeing a bit offtopic, but my CSW modding project is on hold as I'm a bit fed up and bought a used Frex Mk1, but I think this one could also be interesting for CSW owners:
I want to watercool my 38mm Frex motor, but I'm a bit unsure what type of "heatpipe" (I'm missing the correct english term) would be more sufficient:
http://www.peter-modellbau.com/product_info.php?products_id=90474
or
http://modellbau-guru.eshop.t-onlin.../?ObjectPath=/Shops/Shop30842/Products/WK-002
(I don't think that the hottie is included in the price :/)
If I'm right, the first one runs the water DIRECTLY on the motor inside the hull? That would pretty much kill the motor - right?
Shige himself uses this type of cooling jacket:
Which one should I prefer if I had the choice?
