Fanatec CSW/CSR Elite Modders Thread *UPDATE February 2014*

  • Thread starter eKretz
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The most similar to the ones I'm using from that PDF catalog would be the 1.13.049.402 motors. They are slightly better than the ones I'm using since mine are from an older line than 2012.

The surplusgizmos link is the exact motor I'm using; in fact I bought 3 or 4 from them quite some time ago.
 
Maybe I could get some help here for my problem. I've got Fanatec CSR wheel, CSR Elite pedals and shifter setup, but the clutch seems not to work at all for GT6. Do I need to configure it somehow? I have 756 firmware on wheel if that does matter and clutch is working fine with all the other games.
 
The most similar to the ones I'm using from that PDF catalog would be the 1.13.049.402 motors. They are slightly better than the ones I'm using since mine are from an older line than 2012.

The surplusgizmos link is the exact motor I'm using; in fact I bought 3 or 4 from them quite some time ago.



I think i remember this being mentioned but, How much are New motor's ? or can you not buy just a couple single motors out of that catalog ?
 
What do you guys think about trying to take an Elite wheel apart and put it together with new thermal paste, turn the fan if not change it, and try to mount some small extra fans? Thinking of some small RC fans or something.
But can the pcb at the back handle more fans?

My Elite wheel i would say has not more than 2-3months of use since it came out. Never used it much. Never with extreme ffb or more than 2hours in a row. But it has very noticeable fading. Tested with assetto corsa, and after just one lap on silverstone full i can feel the ffb has stared to fade.

If it comes to it that i have to get new motors, they would have to be modified a little bit i guess?
Maybe you could do some sort of tutorial of the mods needed? And maybe the water run inn as well?
You can just use a lower voltage battery and leave it inn? Like what is done with the rc motors?
 
I think i remember this being mentioned but, How much are New motor's ? or can you not buy just a couple single motors out of that catalog ?

New Bühler motors of that variety were around $120 each the last time I found a source for them.
 
Maybe I could get some help here for my problem. I've got Fanatec CSR wheel, CSR Elite pedals and shifter setup, but the clutch seems not to work at all for GT6. Do I need to configure it somehow? I have 756 firmware on wheel if that does matter and clutch is working fine with all the other games.

I thought I saw somewhere quite a few people were having troubles with that in GT6 but I can't recall where I read that.
 
What do you guys think about trying to take an Elite wheel apart and put it together with new thermal paste, turn the fan if not change it, and try to mount some small extra fans? Thinking of some small RC fans or something.
But can the pcb at the back handle more fans?

My Elite wheel i would say has not more than 2-3months of use since it came out. Never used it much. Never with extreme ffb or more than 2hours in a row. But it has very noticeable fading. Tested with assetto corsa, and after just one lap on silverstone full i can feel the ffb has stared to fade.

If it comes to it that i have to get new motors, they would have to be modified a little bit i guess?
Maybe you could do some sort of tutorial of the mods needed? And maybe the water run inn as well?
You can just use a lower voltage battery and leave it inn? Like what is done with the rc motors?

I put new TIM on my heatsink/drive MOSFETs, and reversed my fans. Didn't do a whole lot in my experience. The water break-in has been recommended since the beginning of this thread somewhere.

As far as modding parts for different motors, there are certain things that I wouldn't advise trying without a lathe and milling machine, which most people probably don't have available. Especially in the case of enlarging the pulley bores; they need to be in perfect alignment or they will wobble, which could allow slippage and will almost certainly be felt in the wheel.
 
Well Fanatec is not going to be around very long if this is still happening to new wheels. And very expensive once at that. And not have an option to get new motors etc. All we will be left with is Logitech for lower and mid range wheels, or we will have to get even higher end than the fanatecs. But they are for the most part PC wheels i guess?

I wish i was smart enough to make a pair of rc brushless motors work. Think they would be powerful enough?
Maybe to fast, or to slow. Always have the crawler motors and bigger mamba monster one. But getting it to work is something else. The mamba esc could handle 22.2v. Would have been cool..
 
Well the main problem is that brushless motors aren't drop-in replacements since they use electrical commutation (controller, etc.) instead of mechanical like brushed motors. This could be added to the wheel, but as we add more and more complexity the cost starts to get too high for the benefit and one might just as well buy a better wheel like the direct drive servo models. If they had started with brushless we could just do a motor swap, but if the motors were brushless they most likely wouldn't be failing. Then we'd only need to cool the windings, which would be much easier since they are stationary in a brushless motor of the type we need. Brushless is definitely ideal for the application since the brushes and commutator are definitely the problem area.
 
Well Fanatec is not going to be around very long if this is still happening to new wheels. And not have an option to get new motors etc. All we will be left with is Logitech for lower and mid range wheels.

Motor thing could happen to anyone, it looks like it is more of a problem with Fanatec, but still, noone is safe. My G25 motor failed less than a month after warranty period ended. At the beginning, logitech support told me that they can still proceed with a replacement motor. After over a month (they weren't quick to respond) of mailing they still told me, they can't do anything because warranty has ended, even though they knew that from the start and still said they can proceed with it. So I had to sell it for a cheap at the time.
 
That's typical, things break shortly after the warranty runs out..
I might just have to break out my older 911 turbo GT2 or what ever the ps, xbox, pc wheel was called.
Don't think i used it for a total of a month before changing to the Elite. Might not have a fading problem yet.
Should upgrade the fw and try it. Might be the only thing to do right now.
 
hey guys, question for ya. Can you add a 2nd ABS shaker motor to the stock Board ? Or would you require a separate power supply, The Board looks like it has a 2nd hook up just minus the connector.

Thanks
 
That's typical, things break shortly after the warranty runs out..
I might just have to break out my older 911 turbo GT2 or what ever the ps, xbox, pc wheel was called.
Don't think i used it for a total of a month before changing to the Elite. Might not have a fading problem yet.
Should upgrade the fw and try it. Might be the only thing to do right now.
They all suffer fade, it even stated so in the instructions that came with my original turbo 911.
 
hey guys, question for ya. Can you add a 2nd ABS shaker motor to the stock Board ? Or would you require a separate power supply, The Board looks like it has a 2nd hook up just minus the connector.

Thanks

I haven't messed with the ABS/road vibe motors...not sure about the configuration of the pins on the board, but IIRC there already are 2 vibe motors on the wheel. RacerX might know more since he has done some ABS mods but I don't know if he has gone beyond the motor on the pedal. Or are you referring to the pedal? Your post only mentions "board" so that's not perfectly clear.
 
Ekretz, I live in Louisville, Ky and have a Fanatec gt2 that has motor whine and cogging. Can you offer any suggestions ? Do you repair wheels ?

I could repair it certainly, if you needed help with that. First thing you should do though is find the post in the SimRacing Hardware section of the forum here where the guy is gifting his GT wheel to his nephew but lost he power cord. A guy in that thread offered to give away his power cord from his GT wheel that he doesn't use anymore. He might be willing to give you the wheel free or at a nominal cost.
 
I could repair it certainly, if you needed help with that. First thing you should do though is find the post in the SimRacing Hardware section of the forum here where the guy is gifting his GT wheel to his nephew but lost he power cord. A guy in that thread offered to give away his power cord from his GT wheel that he doesn't use anymore. He might be willing to give you the wheel free or at a nominal cost.
Well, I would honestly rather get mine fixed with a new motor if possible just to start fresh. What part of Indiana are you from ?
 
Ok so my very thin (or short depending on your point of reference) Micro-V belts are working great. But I want even more flexibility. However I cannot thin them out any further. On the backside…I'll run into the cords. I left about the thickness of a sheet of paper over the cords. And on the ribbed side, I'll lose traction if I trim too much - the ribs need to wedge into the pulley groove's 40º angle for traction. No problem, time for some more Science.

Amongst belt suppliers that offer a choice of rubber compounds, the softer versions enjoy a tighter minimum bend radius for a given construction. Do want! I could not find soft Micro-Vs, so I made some. I used some tire softening agent. Soak, and the chemicals go right into the rubber.

Yeah they do more easily bend, and they bend further, to a sharper angle. This will help the belts achieve a good wrap around both the 20 mm motor pulleys and the 27 mm steering shaft drive pulley when low belt tension is utilized. You can see this in the video. This will help me keep cutting drag (for those not up to date I am finding that drag reduction helps car control due to better countersteer, while higher forces without fade aids fun, realism, and immersion). I tested this belt flexibility more scientifically of course, using weights needed to achieve a given pulley wrap angle. However that is harder to fit into a very brief video. I can do something like a 15 mm pulley now as a minimum. I don't plan to do that (would boost torque quite a bit, while needing more drive voltage to hit the 200 RPM goal) as I am focussed on feel and drag issues for the moment.

Check it out, Fana-Blog 4: Chem Belts:



Fanatec should put you on their payroll just by finding this... Amazing work!
 
I haven't messed with the ABS/road vibe motors...not sure about the configuration of the pins on the board, but IIRC there already are 2 vibe motors on the wheel. RacerX might know more since he has done some ABS mods but I don't know if he has gone beyond the motor on the pedal. Or are you referring to the pedal? Your post only mentions "board" so that's not perfectly clear.


Ya sorry the pedals are in question here, I have a few spare little shakers from OLD PS1 controller's. Figured if i could use em Why not. RacerX told me he went to a Significantly larger Shaker motor with separate PS and relay. I personally dont want to go that route. Ive asked RacerX this same question but hasn't responded. 👎

Thanks eKretz.
 
Nick,

An N channel mosfet and an old cell phone charger would be a better choice, if you end up going the separate power supply route.

As for what the board can handle, the CSP board isn't really the issue.

If you have the pedals connected via USB and not to the wheel, you're limited to 500ma as this is a USB bus limitation.

If you have the pedals connected to the wheel directly, you are limited by whatever the rating is for the 5v voltage regulator in the wheel. This will likely vary by wheel model. If you can find it on the board in the wheel, you can look up the part number and find out what it can handle. It's probably a decent amount as it likely supplies most of the board with power. Remember though, that it's supplying the board with power too ;)
 
Nick,

An N channel mosfet and an old cell phone charger would be a better choice, if you end up going the separate power supply route.

As for what the board can handle, the CSP board isn't really the issue.

If you have the pedals connected via USB and not to the wheel, you're limited to 500ma as this is a USB bus limitation.

If you have the pedals connected to the wheel directly, you are limited by whatever the rating is for the 5v voltage regulator in the wheel. This will likely vary by wheel model. If you can find it on the board in the wheel, you can look up the part number and find out what it can handle. It's probably a decent amount as it likely supplies most of the board with power. Remember though, that it's supplying the board with power too ;)



Awesome thanks for the info Jon, Ill hit you up with a PM and some more question's. I'm sure i can find an old cell phone charger and a quick google search shows the N channel Mosfet being super cheap. So i would like to maybe do this instead with a little help from you.

Again thx buddy.
 
im not sure who makes them, theres heaps on ebay just search 'slim quick release'.

would a couple of these do the trick? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Buhler-P...ultDomain_0&hash=item4178d28d3a#ht_340wt_1128

also, i need help with a power supply, im not sure were to start

That motor is more akin to the one used in the T500 - it's a 52mm diameter can. It could be used but you'd need to switch to single motor drive with an idler pulley, because it draws a lot more current at stall. The power supply you'd need will depend on which motor or motors you end up with. I really need to get a motor worked out or find something workable that's easily available and affordable for you guys. I should be able to meet up with the new motor guy next week to see what he's been able to work out.
 
idler pulley to take some slack out of the belt because of the missing motor? or something else?

i found a couple of the phaser motors for a good price but the the shipping to Australia is like $60 dollars a hit, bit steap for my liking. im looking forward to the news about the other motors.

out of curiosity how much would it set me back to get a power supply like yours in order to tweak the currents?
 
No you'd need the idler because of the way the belt routing is configured. If you pulled one of the motors out and put on a shorter belt and tried to run just one motor the belt would end up rubbing on the aluminum support shafts inside the wheel housing.

A good brand of power supply to get once you know your motor specs would be a Meanwell. They are pretty reasonable on price and decent quality. I think you'd be able to get what you need for under $50 if I remember correctly. A variable supply like mine would set you back quite a bit more. I use mine for all sorts of other things including project prototyping, troubleshooting and repair work. Something like I have is more likely to cost you at least several hundred US dollars used on eBay, to several thousand new.
 
if i make up a new motor mount to mount a single motor in the center it should avoid that problem.

sheesh, i had a feeling your one would be pretty pricey, will have to wait till i know what motors to go with before i go for the power supply then, thanks eKretz
 

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