Did some new mods. Used a suitcase, a guitar and a mattress.
Did my version of the credit card mod:
http://www.avforums.com/threads/fanatec-gear-shifter-mod.1342416/ on my Porsche shifter. Used some hard-wearing plastic cut from an old suitcase, and stuffed every crevice possible in the shifter with foam from a mattress. Managed to get the ball bearing to be partly propelled by foam rather than purely by the spring, and shaved back the bearing casing to relieve a bit more of the loud click. Worked well.
I was also looking for a bit more resonance from the subwoofers under my seat.... something with good acoustics..... maybe an acoustic? Yes, I cut an old unrequired acoustic guitar in half and formed a couple of cases that fit the very specific and awkward space available. Also worked well.
I recommend the shifter mod, not taking any of this too seriously, and forgiving that it's only vaguely on topic.
Also cleaned out some of the slightly over the top grease that was present in my GT3RS. Even that sort of subtle drag reduction was quite noticeable. Recommended.
I have an old velodyne 12-inch sub that originally had a brittle speaker surround installed in it (look up "uld-12 speaker surround disintegration" and you will see what I mean) that I'm looking to get rid of and/or make in to a enclosed & powered transducer. It's been sitting dormant for over a year now though, and I doubt I'll find the time to either replace the surround or package it in to my rig.
If you are interested, I believe it would act as a great transducer for a variety of reasons.
If you aren't familiar with a servo regulated subwoofer, read up a bit on it. It's characteristics would make it ideal for a purpose such as this. I won't bore you with too many details except to say, you can run it without the surround (or the cone for that matter) without damaging it because of the servo, and uld stands for "ultra-low distortion", finally, it's self enclosed, powered, and made by velodyne... Which means it's going to babe more accurate with less adjustment than anything on the market (ok, anything under $2k on the market) now (even if it is 20 years later).
If you are interested, shoot me a pm, if you aren't, does anyone have any prep suggestions for converting a sub in to a transducer (basically make it so that the "Boom" of the speaker is dampened or negated?
I know that removing the cone is going to be necessary to cut down on the noise of the transducer, but should I replace it with something like what buttkicker & the like have mounted to the magnet on the bottom? Also, I believe I should mount it so that the speaker cone (if it were there) is facing up, with just enough clearance so that it does not start trying to punch through the bottom of my racing seat. Lastly, do you think it is wise to leave it in the lead injected (heavy as f%*# btw) enclosure, or install it in free space?
Thanks for y'all's help..
...Americans should be used to that because probably most of the products have only 1-year warranty that even cost a lot more and there doesn't seem to be a problem buying those (hint Apple
).
Ok, so I agree with you about consumer protection law/policy in the US. It's aweful, but of the consumer electronics companies I've had the "pleasure" of dealing with here, apple is one of the best in terms of RMA's, troubleshooting, and warranty duration. They offer a 3 year FACTORY warranty, on all products for between 150-350 bucks, which isn't all that bad considering they replace hardware "no-questions asked", and purchase price-to-warranty-cost is about 10-1 or better. I mean, yeah, you pay the "apple tax" at the apple store, but if you are patient, you can get a refurbished unit that's marked up only around 8-10 present and clearance units that are only marked up the typical (for consumer electronics anyway) 2-4 percent.
I mention all of this because fanatec and (to a lesser extent) apple both offer excellent support considering the alternatives available.
Tank you for the detailed answer. I know that Bühler motors do not have the same size than stock ones. But I have read about specific psu that with a given input can output almost any voltage but I don't want to mod the pcb. So modding pulleys, I think I can, but electronic :S
just curious, why, with the larger motors, are y'all still bothering with the pulleys? Surely there has to be a direct-drive encoder-motor you could hotwire to the fanatec pcb...
When i measure the FBB motors the one which i asume is okay uses about 2Amps. The defective uses +7Amps. Not good wheen the powersupply only is 5Amps.
