Fanatec CSW/CSR Elite Modders Thread *UPDATE February 2014*
- Thread starter eKretz
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- Eric_J2358
The stock motors are probably going to be better served with light oil than grease. It would be difficult to get the grease in where it's needed. You can use anything from quality bearing lubricant to sewing machine oil to probably up to 30 weight motor oil. The motors should have oilite bushings, so they should be impregnated with oil, but adding a bit more after soaking in water is advised.
If possible, use compressed air to dry out the motors as well as you can. Failing that, put them in the oven at 130°-150°F (55°-65°C) for an hour or so. It won't kill them if you don't get them dry, but it's always best to get rid of moisture if possible.
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Thanks for looking at it. I eventually just realized my mistake about the 48V one and the last one and completely overlooked the 17.5A :/
Just to throw some more in the mix (those are Austrian motors, which would be available locally):
http://www.dunkermotoren.at/default.asp?id=9&mid=6&lang=2 (specs seem perfect in terms of size, but, 5.7Ncm torque, 1.2A stall amperage, BUT 5.7A startup amperage :/), Datasheet is in the link in the right sidebar.
http://www.dunkermotoren.at/default.asp?id=9&mid=116&lang=2
the same one, just a TAD bigger and more powerful. 2.5A stall amperage, BUT > 10A startup amperage again..
Both motors run at around 4.200 rpm (non loaded)
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- Eric_J2358
Marko, the first motor is similar to the Bühler that I am using now. The 2nd is quite a bit larger and stronger but according to its datasheet there is a minimum order of quantity 500 pieces! On both motors, the rating for what you are labelling stall current is actually rated current. That is the amperage the motor will draw under its rated load. For the first motor, this means it will draw 1.2A at a load of 5.7N•cm. Stall current should usually be pretty close to starting current.
For comparison, the Bühler motors are rated 6N•cm at a 1.15A draw.
For comparison, the Bühler motors are rated 6N•cm at a 1.15A draw.
- 12
- Austria
The difference to the Buehler motors is, that I can actually order them through a guy.
what does that amperage now mean for its use? I've got some skills in electronics (studied it for a few years back in the day in tech school), but I'm still not sure what those motors actually draw now and what it means in terms of out of the box compatibility to the PCB from Fanatec.
what does that amperage now mean for its use? I've got some skills in electronics (studied it for a few years back in the day in tech school), but I'm still not sure what those motors actually draw now and what it means in terms of out of the box compatibility to the PCB from Fanatec.
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- Eric_J2358
I was actually only posting the comparison to the Bühler to show that they were vey similar. I am actually quite surprised that the Bühlers aren't available in Austria though, considering the fact that they are a German company.
The Fanatec CSW PCB is fairly capable. The board splits the power to the logic components separately from the FFB motors so the motors and their drive MOSFETs/circuitry are the only thing seeing any extra load on the board. It has handled my Bühler motors with no problem. The main thing you will have an issue with in my opinion will be the motor heat. And you need to be able to modify the motor mount so that your motors will bolt in, and re-bore the pulleys to fit the motor shafts. The stock power supply won't be able to supply enough juice to run those motors though, so you'll need to get something capable of at least 2x the stall/startup current + a little bit. Say around 15A to be safe.
The Fanatec CSW PCB is fairly capable. The board splits the power to the logic components separately from the FFB motors so the motors and their drive MOSFETs/circuitry are the only thing seeing any extra load on the board. It has handled my Bühler motors with no problem. The main thing you will have an issue with in my opinion will be the motor heat. And you need to be able to modify the motor mount so that your motors will bolt in, and re-bore the pulleys to fit the motor shafts. The stock power supply won't be able to supply enough juice to run those motors though, so you'll need to get something capable of at least 2x the stall/startup current + a little bit. Say around 15A to be safe.
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- 12
- Austria
They are available here, just not through my electronic guy. And Buehler wouldn't even post me a quote without a business tax number which imho is quite a joke..
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- Austria
The Mabuchis in the Fanatec Wheels are NOT Mabuchi 550. I don't get why people keep thinking that.. AFAIK they are 555RE motors - special build for Fanatec..
I thought I heard a while back that the motors where actually used for printers, but that might of been a rumor.Thank you for correcting me. 👍
Can't keep wondering that the motors in Fanatec are Chineese Mabuchi ripoffs.
Then again, maybe not. Totally diff specs.
Mainly used in printers, not designed to run hours on end in a wheel?
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- Eric_J2358
That isn't the correct datasheet either. We need RS555-22130PH. I have looked far and wide for it and it doesn't seem to be out there. If you look at the numbers in the blue boxes after the 555, you'll see the wind counts of the motors. In the white box, see the 25110? That's 110 turns of .25mm wire. The stock Fanatecs are 130 turns of .22mm wire. That sheet is the closest I have been able to find, but still doesn't give accurate specs for the stock motors. Even that small change in the winding can make a significant difference in the torque and amperage draw, just look at the difference between 3550 and 3754. The stall torque of the 25110 Mabuchi is 186mN•m, which is 1.86N•cm, so they are considerably weaker than the Bühler and Dunker motors at close to 6N•cm stall torque.
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- Eric_J2358
Try Meanwell. The SE-450-24 would do the trick.
Edit: Here you go:$70
http://www.peaktopeakpower.com/se-450-24
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Hey eKretz, this was asked at a league forum I frequent.
"While we're on the topic of wheels. Does anyone know the torque common wheels put out? I know the T500RS has the torque listed on the official site, but how does the CSW compare, and how does my entry-level DFGT compare? I haven't been able to find this anywhere.
I'm wanting stronger ffb than what my DFGT can do. I think that will be the deciding factor in my next wheel purchase."
Do you know offhand what kind of torque those wheels produce, or at least the CSW? I don't want to pester you, so if you don't have general numbers off the top of your head, don't worry about it.
"While we're on the topic of wheels. Does anyone know the torque common wheels put out? I know the T500RS has the torque listed on the official site, but how does the CSW compare, and how does my entry-level DFGT compare? I haven't been able to find this anywhere.
I'm wanting stronger ffb than what my DFGT can do. I think that will be the deciding factor in my next wheel purchase."
Do you know offhand what kind of torque those wheels produce, or at least the CSW? I don't want to pester you, so if you don't have general numbers off the top of your head, don't worry about it.
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- Eric_J2358
By the way, not sure if you are clear about this: the 5-5.5N•m torque is at the steering shaft, not the motors. I thought I should add this since you posted about the T500's torque being listed on the official site. The torque on Thrustmaster's website is only motor torque (150mN•m), not steering shaft torque. I have been unable to find the correct datasheet for the stock Fanatec FFB motors, but I would estimate them to be in the ballpark of the 25110 wind motor in the datasheet above, around 20-30mN•m, (40-60mN•m for the pair) but since the gear ratios between motors and steering shaft are probably different, motor torque figures probably shouldn't be directly compared. And these are both rated torque, so torque at a certain percent of load. More telling are the stall torque numbers. The T500's motor is spec'ed at 640mN•m starting/stall torque, the stock Fanatec motors both together are probably nearer 350-400mN•m based on what I see in the datasheet for the 555-25110. However, the T500's motor is spec'ed at 12.6A stall current and the stock power supply is only putting out 6.67A. Not sure what they've got going on there.
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Will this work on csp v1? where did you get the same shock?Here is a pedal mod viddie you guys might enjoy showing a CSP V2 with various self-created mods. I only talk about a few but it's still interesting and pedals did come up in this thread so...
The Zero-Rebound / Quick-Release damper works wonderfully, so do the stronger ABS vibes and clutch/gas compatible height adjust knobs (it's done differently for the brakes). That damper uses much thicker silicone fluid for a more pronounced hydraulic feel during brake application. All wires are tucked. The stock load cell adjuster is now pedal lever mounted. This is from a few weeks ago and so later or earlier mods (such as the electric dampers and adjusters) are not shown. But their knobs and switches are still present if you are eagle eyed.
http://s583.beta.photobucket.com/user/sjmarcy/media/Fana-Blog/Fana-Blog-A1_zps3626c6f2.mp4.html
Also, below are a few pictures showing some of the details.
JogoAsobi
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Actually, there is a kit available for converting CSP V.1 Brake to a setup similar to what the CSP V.2 uses.
See this web page over at struvedesigns.com. There is also this thread about it over at ISR.
And see this August 2012 post by GTP member thehawk05 from the CSP V.2 Intro Thread for info on the CSP V.2's RC Shock. Fanatec still uses the same one as Teki's prototypes on the CSP V.2s, its just a different color for aesthetics.
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