- 1,603
- IN
- Eric_J2358
Also, here's a site with all kinds of fans. This will take you to the 70mm page:
http://www.cwc-group.com/70mm.html
http://www.cwc-group.com/70mm.html
Fanatec CSW/CSR Elite Modders Thread *UPDATE February 2014*
- Thread starter eKretz
- 3,608 comments
- 607,414 views
Ekretz, after trying on another game, i am very lost, right turn doesnt seem to be locked
but i believe my wheel doest have material issue
i noticed wheel is not centered at 0, usually between 1 and 3, mostly at 3
previous guy on the thread claimed warranty does work about squeaky noise
do you think it could worth to call Fanatec for such noise issue?
if they are willing to take my wheel under warranty for this, will they replace motors and check if anything goes wrong on my wheel?
but i believe my wheel doest have material issue
i noticed wheel is not centered at 0, usually between 1 and 3, mostly at 3
previous guy on the thread claimed warranty does work about squeaky noise
do you think it could worth to call Fanatec for such noise issue?
if they are willing to take my wheel under warranty for this, will they replace motors and check if anything goes wrong on my wheel?
- 403
- SF/CA/USA
- posiloan
- posixmosh
I had a similar issue with my csr-e (before I got out from under it). As far as "1" and "3" you mentioned, is that a reading in the fanatec firmware doohickey? I had a "softer" limit in one direction (I don't remember which), I found it was easily adjustable tho because it was a belt slip issue and not an encoder issue (that is, I could just slip it back a couple of degrees and reset the center point.
- 25
- Italy
I intended monitoring temperatures of the csw motors after installing the 2nd fan, sorry for the bad explanation...
Anyway I found a downstep adapter in a package of 120mm corsair fans, in the manual it says that this is intended to lower the speed by reducing voltage from 12v to 6v. As I have 2 of them, can I connect them before the fan stepping down the voltage to 12v (24-6-6)? Being natively intended to work with larger fans I suppose it can take the work with the smaller fan too. As you can see I'm not good in electronics so don't know if this calculations are correct or if there are any other parameter involved.
- 4,169
- Ottawa
- 25
- Italy
Sadly not here in Europe... The 70x70 fans are nearly impossible to find, especially the 24v ones. Obviously fanatec doesn't sell it as a spare part and before buying from U.S. And have to deal with customs, I prefer trying other solutions...
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- 4,169
- Ottawa
Fair enough, I did not realize it was a challenge to get a 70x70 24volt fan, good to know, good luck.
this might help, http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/axial-fans/7588302/
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- 1,603
- IN
- Eric_J2358
Well, as long as you don't end up with a short when/if the resistor fails. No guarantee there. Do you have a multimeter to check the voltage coming out of your adapter? The resistor needs to have enough capacity wattage wise to keep from burning up. Although now that I think about it even a short would just put you back where you started with the thermistor shutting off the fan over and over again. So you should be safe as long as the fan doesn't burn up and short.
It sounds like he doesn't want to order a fan because customs is a PITA in his country.
Does customs mess with your order if you order from EU Piumaz?
It sounds like he doesn't want to order a fan because customs is a PITA in his country.
Does customs mess with your order if you order from EU Piumaz?
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- 25
- Italy
Thank you for the link! Like you said I found fans with an acceptable price.
I found this interesting one as already equipped with 2 pins connector but I see 5100 rpm, it seems an incredible high speed, isn't it?
http://www.tme.eu/en/details/pmd2407ptb1a/dc24v-fans/sunon/pmd2407ptb1-a2gn/
Anyway can someone advice me a good 70x70 24v fan?
- 25
- Italy
Customs checking here in Italy can be very slow. I had terrible experiences in the past with waiting times of up to 2 months to have the goods delivered from customs. For this reason if it's not really needed, I prefer avoid buying outside EU, especially for a very cheap fan. Anyway this is a local issue, not extended to other EU countries, I guess.
- 1,603
- IN
- Eric_J2358
OK fellas, adapted my hand tool made bracket for 80mm fan use. Only using the upper left and lower right corner to fasten the fan to the bracket. The upper left hole gets a through bolt and nut, the lower right gets a longer 3mm screw to go through the fan, the bracket, the filter clip and threads into the side cover. If you look closely at the bottom 2 photos you'll see I trimmed the fan housing a bit to ensure that it clears the small pulley and belt on the reduction pulley.
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- 25
- Italy
Very good work and perfect fit! It will be easier to install a second fan this way.
What happens when you install a second fan this big? I'm asking this because after trying many fans, I'm discovered that the presence of a second fan affects the first one directly.
I suspect that my board revision, with the 2 fan connectors stacked on the right side, is not completely ok with 2 fans... Would like some feedback from people with 2 stock fans csw without modding.
What happens when you install a second fan this big? I'm asking this because after trying many fans, I'm discovered that the presence of a second fan affects the first one directly.
I suspect that my board revision, with the 2 fan connectors stacked on the right side, is not completely ok with 2 fans... Would like some feedback from people with 2 stock fans csw without modding.
- 1,603
- IN
- Eric_J2358
If there's not enough current there to push both fans you can always wire them directly. That's what I did. I wanted them always on full speed personally. (Did this before I had the Bühlers and air pump setup... Probably isn't at all necessary now). Also, as long as you get similar amperage draw to the stock fans you should have no issues. It might give you a little trouble if you try using something that draws 4 times what the stockers do though.
I will try the old board I have here when I have some time and see what it does with 2 larger fans plugged in.
I will try the old board I have here when I have some time and see what it does with 2 larger fans plugged in.
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- 9,721
- Portland, OR
- Jump_Ace
- JUMPxACE
Interesting idea with two internally mounted fans. Would that be a possible solution to help the Buhler motors cool down instead of an air pump? I'm assuming not, but just checking.
Jerome
Jerome
- 1,603
- IN
- Eric_J2358
Nope. Doesn't even work for the stock motors. Maybe if FF was kept below 40-50 at all times. Maybe. RReed is actually trying it now but I'm not sure where his FF is set; I only know he has it quite low. I expect he will report in before too long.
It might be possible to use a smaller quieter pump with dual fans if we could find a good heat sink for the Bühler cans but it still would not be as good for the motors as the pump used now. Especially on longer races with higher FFB settings. If you limit the FF enough it might be possible to run with no cooling (pump or fan) at all. But I'd imagine it'd have to be pretty low and then you lose a lot of the small forces on console at least.
It might be possible to use a smaller quieter pump with dual fans if we could find a good heat sink for the Bühler cans but it still would not be as good for the motors as the pump used now. Especially on longer races with higher FFB settings. If you limit the FF enough it might be possible to run with no cooling (pump or fan) at all. But I'd imagine it'd have to be pretty low and then you lose a lot of the small forces on console at least.
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- 404
- Aubrey, Texas
I promised a report on upgrading my CSR-E with a new motor set from eKretz. I ordered the motors, a new motor mount and pullies pre-assembled and ready to install into my wheel. eKretz was easy to work with, kept me informed of progress on getting the parts into his shop and then getting them ready to ship. They arrived today in good shape and well packaged to protect them from damage.
I had never opened up the case on my CSR-E wheel. It is a somewhat daunting task but not particularly difficult. You need a range of hex drivers to loosen the screws and bolts which Fanatec uses to assemble the wheel. The motors are located somewhat under the circuit board. It is fairly tricky to get the old motors out because the drive belt is wrapped around them and can't be released without taking off the pullies on the motors. It is tight and accurate work. I wouldn't recommend doing it unless you have experience working with electro/mechanical devices.
The new motors are quite a big bigger than the old motors but eKrezt bracket fit them comfortably into the enclosure. Reassembly wasn't difficult but it did require several tries to get the power and particularly the Xbox switch realigned and operating correctly.
I remounted the wheel on my rig and it fired up without a hitch. I didn't need to recalibrate the wheel. It centered properly.
I signed onto GT6 and tried the wheel. The FF was much stronger than it had been with the old stock wheel. It is also a lot smoother. In retrospect I believe the old motors had gradually degraded until they had virtually no force feedback and were also quite "gravelly". The FF is so much stronger then what I was used to I turned it down to 10% in GT6.
I am very happy with the rebuilt wheel. I feel the road much better and can maintain a tighter line through corners. I believe my driving performance will improve. I may or may not increase the FF as I get used to having real force feedback again.
I had never opened up the case on my CSR-E wheel. It is a somewhat daunting task but not particularly difficult. You need a range of hex drivers to loosen the screws and bolts which Fanatec uses to assemble the wheel. The motors are located somewhat under the circuit board. It is fairly tricky to get the old motors out because the drive belt is wrapped around them and can't be released without taking off the pullies on the motors. It is tight and accurate work. I wouldn't recommend doing it unless you have experience working with electro/mechanical devices.
The new motors are quite a big bigger than the old motors but eKrezt bracket fit them comfortably into the enclosure. Reassembly wasn't difficult but it did require several tries to get the power and particularly the Xbox switch realigned and operating correctly.
I remounted the wheel on my rig and it fired up without a hitch. I didn't need to recalibrate the wheel. It centered properly.
I signed onto GT6 and tried the wheel. The FF was much stronger than it had been with the old stock wheel. It is also a lot smoother. In retrospect I believe the old motors had gradually degraded until they had virtually no force feedback and were also quite "gravelly". The FF is so much stronger then what I was used to I turned it down to 10% in GT6.
I am very happy with the rebuilt wheel. I feel the road much better and can maintain a tighter line through corners. I believe my driving performance will improve. I may or may not increase the FF as I get used to having real force feedback again.
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