Fanatec CSW/CSR Elite Modders Thread *UPDATE February 2014*
- Thread starter eKretz
- 3,608 comments
- 614,603 views
- 1,326
- SC
Wow, very cool! How does it keep track of your mileage? 
- 134
- Amsterdam
- bruzski
by running the speedometer it automatically keeps track of the mileageWow, very cool! How does it keep track of your mileage?
- 4,186
- Ottawa
CSR elite pedals issue
when looking at the properties of my pedals, the blue rectangle of the brakes pedal is full while not pressing the pedal, if I press the accelerator nothing changes but if I press the clutch then the brake decrease as the clutch and accelerator blue rectangle increase. pressing the brake does nothing.
Edit, after unchecking the combined pedals, now the clutch and the brake work fine but the accelerator is not responding.
when looking at the properties of my pedals, the blue rectangle of the brakes pedal is full while not pressing the pedal, if I press the accelerator nothing changes but if I press the clutch then the brake decrease as the clutch and accelerator blue rectangle increase. pressing the brake does nothing.
Edit, after unchecking the combined pedals, now the clutch and the brake work fine but the accelerator is not responding.
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- 2,865
- Australia
@Cote Dazur Any new drivers on your system?
kinda crappy connectors.. 
- 118
- Sweden
@Cote can you not check the sensors by just swapping connectors on PCB, if throttle not working plug it into clutch connector on PCB and try again to rule out a sensor issue?
Good stuff bruzski, a nice add-on for a sim rig for sure
Good stuff bruzski, a nice add-on for a sim rig for sure
- 4,186
- Ottawa
Problem solved, thank you all for your suggestion, it was the wires connection to the throttle pot. The red one was not connecting and the orange was weak. After resoldering both the pedal set works perfectly again. Been a while since I had to use a soldering iron, that was kind of fun.
- 117
- Pleasure Ridge Park, Kentucky
Does anyone have any of the Fanatec cooling fans for sale that would work on the gt2 ? The smallest one in my gt2 sounds like a meat grinder and the larger one is starting to go as well.
I started running with the case off and noticed that the motor itself never gets as hot as the casing used too !! Bad airflow design there I guess. Would it really stretch the life of my wheel just to run it with no case from now on ? I dont mind the look and in fact that tiny heatsink on the main board gets fairly hot so I think it needs cooling as well.
I started running with the case off and noticed that the motor itself never gets as hot as the casing used too !! Bad airflow design there I guess. Would it really stretch the life of my wheel just to run it with no case from now on ? I dont mind the look and in fact that tiny heatsink on the main board gets fairly hot so I think it needs cooling as well.
- 134
- Amsterdam
- bruzski
- 3,239
- New York
- thepatriots
sigh
still no invite code 🤬 ...
but at least my BMW cluster finally works.
received the right cluster connectors from someone in Idaho
the gauges work perfectly in AC, RFactor2 and iRacing,
just have to mount it on my Obutto rig, keep you posted
That is seriously awesome.
Also, I am right there with you on the CSW v2. The wait is painful...
- 41
- United States
Anyone have any new recommendations on PSU or any on sale specifically?
We should be closing in on the shipping date for our 1st Buhler motor batch trying to get all my ducks in a row.
Any word on the shipment date Eric? I know Im like a kid asking when Santas coming but it seems like it should be about that time
Been keeping rather busy with my other big toy. Repainted shell and cage,new seat, wheel and of course more scrubbing.
- 41
- United States
Sorry for the large pics just wanted to share a quick update with u guys.
- 41
- United States
Thanks man it's keeping me busy for sure. I'm in the first 5 so should we be expecting them out sooner by chance?
- 18
- BrasĂlia-DF
- BegBrasil
Hi friends... this motor is good enough for this mod?
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G19615
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Buhler-Perm...874?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4178d28d3a
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G19615
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Buhler-Perm...874?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4178d28d3a
- 391
- Perth
This is the motor I'm using now, it can only be run as a single motor setup because of its power requirments 2 would definatley kill you PCB. And it requires a bit of work to fit it and your wheel will likely have to be open like a skeleton wheel
- 1,603
- IN
- Eric_J2358
Right - and using it singly will probably also toast your board unless you run it at less than FF100 or otherwise limit the amperage to the motor. (I believe this has already happened to Blue). From what I have been able to glean by looking at data sheets, that motor will pull about 16A at 24VDC if unlimited, and the stock board won't take that for very long. To give you an idea, my stock board that melted a trace and cratered did so at about 18-20A. Personally I wouldn't recommend using that motor unless you are prepared to replace your PCB fairly often if necessary. And for SURE limit the stall amperage by lowering your FF setting, as well as make sure you don't hit the electronic stops, as those are unaffected by the FF limit.
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- 8
- Australia
- 1,603
- IN
- Eric_J2358
Not sure I am understanding that question. The voltage to the motor(s) is reversed by the h-bridge. If you want to try that motor you'll need to parallel the connections - if they aren't already. I've never actually checked. And I'd recommend using much larger than stock wire size also.
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- 8
- Australia
hi eric there is a separate set of connections for each motor , i was just wondering how he used the connections for the one motor, oops you answered me so you use all 4 connections in parralell, the two reds together and the 2 blacks together? also maybe blue could connect a dc amp meter so he could get a good reading and not blow his pcb
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- 1,603
- IN
- Eric_J2358
Well first things first use your multimeter and see if the connections are already paralleled. If they are you can come off of one set - just be sure to use some thicker wire! (Blue can probably tell you if they're paralleled or not since I'd guess he's already checked). Most ammeters on a multimeter only go to 10 amps unless you have a "clamp" style inductive setup. You can check the stall current at low voltage and calculate what it should be at higher voltage to get around that. I think Blue already has had a board blow from the single motor when he was trying to run it without current limiting - I believe he's now running FF90.
@Blue028 I also saw something in that link that might be bad news for your pulley mate! You had me send you 3 with 5mm bores but the link above looks like it may be a 6mm shaft (says 1/4")! Hope 5mm is the right size!
@Blue028 I also saw something in that link that might be bad news for your pulley mate! You had me send you 3 with 5mm bores but the link above looks like it may be a 6mm shaft (says 1/4")! Hope 5mm is the right size!
