Fanatec CSW/CSR Elite Modders Thread *UPDATE February 2014*

  • Thread starter eKretz
  • 3,608 comments
  • 615,346 views
sigh :scared:

still no invite code 🤬 ... :odd:

but at least my BMW cluster finally works. :D :gtpflag:
received the right cluster connectors from someone in Idaho :cheers:

the gauges work perfectly in AC, RFactor2 and iRacing,
just have to mount it on my Obutto rig, keep you posted :lol:


10712773_10152273410321400_3783027127372808481_n.jpg


10632824_10152273406336400_1128942318777737978_n.jpg
 
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CSR elite pedals issue
when looking at the properties of my pedals, the blue rectangle of the brakes pedal is full while not pressing the pedal, if I press the accelerator nothing changes but if I press the clutch then the brake decrease as the clutch and accelerator blue rectangle increase. pressing the brake does nothing.
Edit, after unchecking the combined pedals, now the clutch and the brake work fine but the accelerator is not responding.
 
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Hmm, is this plugged directly in through USB or through the wheel port? Not sure what to make of that one. Possibly a bad pot on the accelerator? Maybe a bad PCB?
 
mmm... i once experienced the same problem, the ps2 connecting the pedals to the base weren't seated properly :rolleyes:
gave all kind of strange behaviours..:indiff: kinda crappy connectors.. :irked:

cote, maybe you could check that out :confused:
 
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@Cote can you not check the sensors by just swapping connectors on PCB, if throttle not working plug it into clutch connector on PCB and try again to rule out a sensor issue?

Good stuff bruzski, a nice add-on for a sim rig for sure
 
Does anyone have any of the Fanatec cooling fans for sale that would work on the gt2 ? The smallest one in my gt2 sounds like a meat grinder and the larger one is starting to go as well.



I started running with the case off and noticed that the motor itself never gets as hot as the casing used too !! Bad airflow design there I guess. Would it really stretch the life of my wheel just to run it with no case from now on ? I dont mind the look and in fact that tiny heatsink on the main board gets fairly hot so I think it needs cooling as well.
 
bruzski
sigh :scared:

still no invite code 🤬 ... :odd:

but at least my BMW cluster finally works. :D :gtpflag:
received the right cluster connectors from someone in Idaho :cheers:

the gauges work perfectly in AC, RFactor2 and iRacing,
just have to mount it on my Obutto rig, keep you posted :lol:


10712773_10152273410321400_3783027127372808481_n.jpg


10632824_10152273406336400_1128942318777737978_n.jpg
Click to expand...

That is seriously awesome.

Also, I am right there with you on the CSW v2. The wait is painful...
 
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Just received my new air pump. I went with the one linked here a few weeks ago...now what to do with it?
Anyone have any new recommendations on PSU or any on sale specifically?
We should be closing in on the shipping date for our 1st Buhler motor batch trying to get all my ducks in a row.
Any word on the shipment date Eric? I know Im like a kid asking when Santas coming but it seems like it should be about that time :)

Been keeping rather busy with my other big toy. Repainted shell and cage,new seat, wheel and of course more scrubbing.
 
No, doing batches of 10 for the parts I had to replace, so they'll pretty much all be done at the same time, then I just need to assemble and ship.
 
Right - and using it singly will probably also toast your board unless you run it at less than FF100 or otherwise limit the amperage to the motor. (I believe this has already happened to Blue). From what I have been able to glean by looking at data sheets, that motor will pull about 16A at 24VDC if unlimited, and the stock board won't take that for very long. To give you an idea, my stock board that melted a trace and cratered did so at about 18-20A. Personally I wouldn't recommend using that motor unless you are prepared to replace your PCB fairly often if necessary. And for SURE limit the stall amperage by lowering your FF setting, as well as make sure you don't hit the electronic stops, as those are unaffected by the FF limit.
 
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Blue028
This is the motor I'm using now, it can only be run as a single motor setup because of its power requirments 2 would definatley kill you PCB. And it requires a bit of work to fit it and your wheel will likely have to be open like a skeleton wheel
Click to expand...
Blue028
This is the motor I'm using now, it can only be run as a single motor setup because of its power requirments 2 would definatley kill you PCB. And it requires a bit of work to fit it and your wheel will likely have to be open like a skeleton wheel
Click to expand...
hi blue how did you get the motor to work both ways , did you only use one of the connections
 
Not sure I am understanding that question. The voltage to the motor(s) is reversed by the h-bridge. If you want to try that motor you'll need to parallel the connections - if they aren't already. I've never actually checked. And I'd recommend using much larger than stock wire size also.
 
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eKretz
Not sure I am understanding that question. The voltage to the motor(s) is reversed by the h-bridge. If you want to try that motor you'll need to parallel the connections - if they aren't already. I've never actually checked. And I'd recommend using much larger than stock wire size also.
Click to expand...
hi eric there is a separate set of connections for each motor , i was just wondering how he used the connections for the one motor, oops you answered me so you use all 4 connections in parralell, the two reds together and the 2 blacks together? also maybe blue could connect a dc amp meter so he could get a good reading and not blow his pcb
 
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Well first things first use your multimeter and see if the connections are already paralleled. If they are you can come off of one set - just be sure to use some thicker wire! (Blue can probably tell you if they're paralleled or not since I'd guess he's already checked). Most ammeters on a multimeter only go to 10 amps unless you have a "clamp" style inductive setup. You can check the stall current at low voltage and calculate what it should be at higher voltage to get around that. I think Blue already has had a board blow from the single motor when he was trying to run it without current limiting - I believe he's now running FF90.

@Blue028 I also saw something in that link that might be bad news for your pulley mate! You had me send you 3 with 5mm bores but the link above looks like it may be a 6mm shaft (says 1/4")! Hope 5mm is the right size!
 

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