Fanatec CSW/CSR Elite Modders Thread *UPDATE February 2014*

  • Thread starter eKretz
  • 3,608 comments
  • 608,815 views
I'm not running my connections paralleled, just one + and one -. Turns out my pcb was fine too, were I had it wired up before I just joined the thick wire to the standard skinny wires that are used on the stock motors and I still had the two wires that weren't being used trimmed down and just hanging. Somehow the wires had come loose in the connector and they shorted out, this caused instant loss of ffb though the wheel was still on, I didn't realise it was just because one of the wires were not making a connection to the pcb. I ordered two pcbs and before they got here I realised the mistake I made and after re-wiring the motor using only the thicker wires and removing the the wires that Werent in use the wheel was working fine.

I'm pretty sure my shaft is 5mm too, will find out soon enough I suppose, so many goodies coming , New rim, New motors, css sq. I'm exited

Edit: also with the power supply I'm using atm the wheel is limited to ~13.8A and the wheel will only cut out at ff100 under really heavy load like it the wheelcheck program when the wheel is rapidly changing direction
 
Last edited:
Good news there! And ahh, so you are limiting current then, just by using the power supply. That's why your wheel will cut out under heavy load. You'd lose it if you hit the electronic stop too. That is also probably why your graphs have kind of large radius reversals - there's not enough amperage there to make them sharp and quick. That will hurt the rapid responses of the wheel a little bit but probably not too badly.
 
A little bit will be the rim but not that much. I have experimented by adding weight to my rim and it only makes slight changes with the dual Bühler motors. (Not talking adding 3 pounds of weight, more like 1 - 1.5) Taking amperage away from the motors makes a lot bigger difference - I have seen that by running Wheelcheck graphs at lower FFs even with the formula wheel. If your rim is ridiculously heavy and all the weight is concentrated around the outside of the rim it wouldn't hurt to change to one with better weight distribution - even if it isn't lighter.
 
@eKretz even though my reversals may not be as sharp as yours (or others) to me it still feels miles better than what the stock wheel ever did. with the elite im fixing up now i fired it up to test it and i had forgoten how weak it was stock, it really feels like a toy in comparison to a buhler modded wheel

edit: i dont think its that heavy, and the wheight distribution is pretty good. its a genuine nardi wheel ;)
 
Last edited:
Yeah, like I said, it probably wouldn't hurt it too badly in terms of feel. We tend to take the graphs a little too seriously sometimes, heh.

And I SO know what you mean about the stock wheel, lol. When I switched mine back to stock motors to compare it to the V2 it felt exactly as you describe - toy-like! Couldn't wait until I got to put my Bühlers back in!

That wheel is pretty sweet, BTW, I like the look of it. Nardi is pretty good stuff, I'm sure it's not too heavy.

BTW - Did you check the shaft diameter on that motor?
 
Yeah, it is 6mm when I measured it I did it quickly at the back of the motor (while it was mounted in the wheel) I didn't realize it has a slight taper on the end , my fault for not doing the job properly :P

Edit: yeah I love the nardi wheel, it was very expensive though. The only reason I was willing to pay for it is because it will be going in my s13 (eventually haha)
 
Last edited:
damn cryptolocker ransomware trojan today 🤬🤬 :mad:

my AC / rfactor2 and iRacing config files were incrypted so basically screwed:banghead::banghead:
i opened a infected email, thought to be a fanatec pre-order code... arghhh:boggled::boggled: how stupid can you be...:yuck:

luckily my network wasn't scanned so i could retrieve some files...sjeezzz :crazy:
 
Oh man, that sucks bruzski! So far I've never been hit by a virus (knock wood) but have been pestered by spyware several times.
 
still waiting for a v2 code though... lol :D
Well if you get an email from someone saying they will give you a code in return for you helping out their cousin's wife's sister's son who unfortunately was born with 4 feet and has no chance at a normal upbringing unless they can fundraise enough money for a liver transplant for the surgeon who specialises in removing spare feet in their village, I wouldn't open it.
 
I was wondering if the V2 motor needs to be broken in? ekretz, from your experience, should you use the V2 wheel with zero to little FFB initially and slowly bump up the power? Or is it good to just use as you wish, right out of the box?

I'm about to pull the trigger on a V2..... I really hope they got it right this time.... :).
 
You should be able to fire it up and go right out of the box. The break-in process is useful on a brushed motor to get the brushes seated to the commutator properly. Brushless motors obviously haven't got either of those, so no break-in necessary.
 
Well if you get an email from someone saying they will give you a code in return for you helping out their cousin's wife's sister's son who unfortunately was born with 4 feet and has no chance at a normal upbringing unless they can fundraise enough money for a liver transplant for the surgeon who specialises in removing spare feet in their village, I wouldn't open it.

yeah yeah!! i got the hint :bowdown::bowdown: :gtpflag:
 
I have been following this thread since post 20, and want to thank all of you who have contributed. Due to eKretz good job of finding a good replacement motor for these wheel I have got 8 buhlers off ebay ready to go in when my original motors goes down (already on one warranty replacement). I have received a CSW V2 code from Fanatec today and will give it away to someone in this thread. Unfortunately according to Fanatec the code can only be transfered in same region as me (Europe) so can not give it to someone in US, AUS etc

Please let me know if any of you are considering one of these V2 wheels.....
 
Nice! Good man. Also - How on earth did you find 8 Bühler motors?! Have you been collecting them for a while? I haven't seen one of the proper P/Ns on eBay in ages. :bowdown:

I sometimes get codes from guys like rattata too - I have given a couple out.
 
dam, kinda sucks that codes can only be shared withing regions

had a box of goodies show up today, but no-one was home to receive them so ill have to pick it up from the post office tommorrow (right next to my work so somewhat conveinient)
will post some pics up tommorrow
 
North central part of Ohio. Couple miles east of Summit Motorsports Park actually. Can hear some of the cars while sitting on the porch. :cheers:
 
I have been following this thread since post 20, and want to thank all of you who have contributed. Due to eKretz good job of finding a good replacement motor for these wheel I have got 8 buhlers off ebay ready to go in when my original motors goes down (already on one warranty replacement). I have received a CSW V2 code from Fanatec today and will give it away to someone in this thread. Unfortunately according to Fanatec the code can only be transfered in same region as me (Europe) so can not give it to someone in US, AUS etc

Please let me know if any of you are considering one of these V2 wheels.....

I have a US Fanatec code that I won't be using, but I'd be happy to transfer it to someone who wants the Fanatec CSW v2. Just shoot me a pm, first come first serve and the code expires 10/02/1014.


Jerome
 
i'm not really in a hurry...ahhmm.. :mischievous:

but if someone has a pre-order code from europe i could have, i will gladly share my code and some beer (not my wife :P) with someone whenever i officially receive mine. :lol:
 
Last edited:
Someone linked me this thread from iracing forums, I just purchased a used V1 as my old csr died a number of weeks ago and needed something new. I am waiting for a V2 code so I can order one, if anyone has a code they are no using I would appreciate it! I am in the US (Michigan)

thanks all
 
Back