Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Extreme Wheel
- Thread starter super_gt
- 1,230 comments
- 158,078 views
Yeah when I saw Maurice’s post I went ahead and upgraded my DD+ to 463. Just to rule out any hardware issues while still under warranty. 3 hours of driving time on 463 and no issues yet (knock on wood). For comparison I logged 21 hours of driving time on 462 without a single disconnect.
PirovacBoy
Premium
- 1,458
- Cologne/Germany
- PirovacBoy
So yesterday after I wasn't able to update the WQR with the FW on Driver 462, I saw that a driver 463 was also already available.
Long story short.
The Update went absolutely flawless.
Both Wheelbase and WQR FW were updated.
Long story short.
The Update went absolutely flawless.
Both Wheelbase and WQR FW were updated.
Glad you got it sorted out @PirovacBoy
Do you feel any difference with 463 compared to the previous firmware that you had?
I’ve now logged 11 hours of driving time with 463 and no issues yet
Do you feel any difference with 463 compared to the previous firmware that you had?
I’ve now logged 11 hours of driving time with 463 and no issues yet
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Jules_r
Premium
- 172
- Kent, UK
- Jules_r
Has anyone out there from the UK, or any country that has to pay separate customs charges, had any issues with Fanatec/UPS regarding the charges?
When I bought my DD Extreme I had to pay UPS £221.35 for customs charges, perfectly normal so no problem there.
A couple of months later I had to send the whole lot back because the OLED failed, it was sent back to a UK address.
Fanatec replaced it with a complete new DD Extreme from Germany and UPS asked me to pay customs charges again, this time £62.98.
When I view the replacement order on the Fanatec website it shows €0.00 for the wheel and €0.00 for the shipping, the invoice also shows €0.00 but there is a Proforma invoice showing a value of €259.99 and states 'NO COMMERCIAL VALUE. VALUE FOR CUSTOMS PURPOSES ONLY 259.99 EURO'
When I bought my DD Extreme I had to pay UPS £221.35 for customs charges, perfectly normal so no problem there.
A couple of months later I had to send the whole lot back because the OLED failed, it was sent back to a UK address.
Fanatec replaced it with a complete new DD Extreme from Germany and UPS asked me to pay customs charges again, this time £62.98.
When I view the replacement order on the Fanatec website it shows €0.00 for the wheel and €0.00 for the shipping, the invoice also shows €0.00 but there is a Proforma invoice showing a value of €259.99 and states 'NO COMMERCIAL VALUE. VALUE FOR CUSTOMS PURPOSES ONLY 259.99 EURO'
PirovacBoy
Premium
- 1,458
- Cologne/Germany
- PirovacBoy
Yes it feels slightly different now.
I've played quite a lot over the past few days and the most obvious difference is less cogging.
It's almost non existent now.
The dynamic range also feels lifted.
Overall I'm very satisfied with the update.
No issues so far.
Hope it stays like that.
Keep in mind, I haven't driven any GR Cars yet.
Just Road Cars around Nordschleife.
On comfort tires.
Just awesome.
- 282
- United Kingdom
Are you still using your recommended settings as posted previously, or have you tweaked them since the update?
PirovacBoy
Premium
- 1,458
- Cologne/Germany
- PirovacBoy
I'm still using my trustworthy settings as posted previously.
GT7 In Game
Torque 4
Sensitivity 8
Wheelbase Settings
FFB 100
NDP 28
NFR 5
NIN 1
INT 4
BRF 55
Everything else default
To me personally these settings are unrivaled in terms of overall authenticity and strength /fidelity.
No matter the car/tire combination.
It always feels spot on.
- 282
- United Kingdom
Thanks 👍
- 77
- Los Angeles
Had my first issue since upgrading to 462. I'm on a DD+ and was playing with the GT Extreme wheel on. I lost FFB for a few seconds but all my inputs were still valid. It's definitely an upgrade over everything fully cutting out but I was lucky I wasn't fighting the wheel through a corner or something cause if it cut out in that scenario I could have easily given it some accidental rotation by over cranking the wheel when the resistance left.
I've probably played close to 10 hours before this happened, so not frequent, and definitely better than losing all control. Not sure if similar things have been reported as I haven't seen this here but I also haven't really been following the Fanatec forums since I upgraded the firmware.
I've probably played close to 10 hours before this happened, so not frequent, and definitely better than losing all control. Not sure if similar things have been reported as I haven't seen this here but I also haven't really been following the Fanatec forums since I upgraded the firmware.
TheNormsk
Premium
- 2,358
- Wisconsin
- NormskVR
Is this only the DD Extreme or might these apply to the 8NM GT DD Pro?
PirovacBoy
Premium
- 1,458
- Cologne/Germany
- PirovacBoy
- 300
- United States
- 2,521
- Upstate NY
- BWX232
It's worse now than it's ever been! I had a set of tweaks I could do really quick on the wheel to get rid of that in GT1 cars almost completely before and still have good FFB otherwise. Mainly raising INT and NDP. Now you can raise INT to 15 and NDP to 60 and it makes very little difference. Experimenting with in-game FFB setting doesn't seem to help now either. You can make it better, but it's still terrible.
Now it seems that shaking back and forth is the "main" type of force being put out of the game/wheel, and everything else is muted no matter what you do with GT-DD-X (DD+ base) settings or in-game settings. there is absolutely nothing realistic about that. It was hilarious watching the guys at the GT world series using GT-DD-X wheels and they're basically fighting that the entire time. I don't know how anyone thinks that is normal.
I'm not sure when this change happened, if it's the new 463 driver and Firmwares or if it's GT7 or both. It's really bad though. You're right, it's un-drive-able unless you turn the overall FFB down so low it basically like not having FFB at all.
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PirovacBoy
Premium
- 1,458
- Cologne/Germany
- PirovacBoy
This is by far the best explanation about how the Force Feedback works and should be applied correctly.
No matter the game.
This young Lad hits it on point.
Very very useful information and perfectly described.
You'll never ever again question anything in regards of FFB Setup.
Enjoy it.
So so useful.
No matter the game.
This young Lad hits it on point.
Very very useful information and perfectly described.
You'll never ever again question anything in regards of FFB Setup.
Enjoy it.
So so useful.
- 2,521
- Upstate NY
- BWX232
Fanatec Driver 464 Release Candidate
Fanatec Driver 464 Release Candidate
How to report issues: No off-topic. Civilized and constructive feedback and discussions to help each other. No offending each other!
Changelog of driver 464 (since 463)
Firmware versions included
ClubSport Handbrake V2 (incl. V1/V1.5)
Known Issues
- Podium DD1 / DD2 Base: 3.3.0.1 (NEW)
- Podium DD1 / DD2 Motor: 3.0.0.2
- Podium DD1 / DD2 WQR: 7
- ClubSport DD(+) Base: 2.3.0.1 (NEW)
- ClubSport DD(+) WQR: 1.1.0.3
- CSL DD / GT DD Pro Base: 1.3.0.1 (NEW)
- CSL DD / GT DD Pro Motor: 1.0.3.2
- CSL DD / GT DD Pro WQR: 6.0.1.1
- CSW V1 Base: 693
- CSW V2 Base: 693
- CSW V2.5 Base: 693
- CSL Elite Base: 693
- CSL Elite Base PS4: 693
- CSL / CSW Motor: 22
- Podium Bentley GT3 Wheel: 1.0.7.0
- Podium Bentley GT3 Video: 1.0.2.0
- Podium BMW M4 GT3: 9
- Podium Hub: 6
- Podium BME: 24
- Podium BMR: 1.0.0.6
- CS SW Formula V2(X), V2.5(X): 47 / 1.0.2.0
- CS SW RS: 4
- CS SW BMW V2: 3
- CS SW F1 Esports V2: 5
- CS UH V2 / UHX V2: 2
- GT DD Extreme SW: 1.0.7.0
- GT DD Pro SW: 8 / 1.0.1.0
- CSL Elite SW McLaren GT3: 37
- CSL Elite SW McLaren GT3 V2: 47
- CSL Elite SW WRC: 4
- CSL UH, CSL UH V2: 8
- CS P V3: 1.35
- CSL Elite Pedals V2: 1.6
- CSL Elite Pedals Load Cell Kit: 1.13
- CSL Pedals Load Cell Kit: 1.8
- CS USB Adapter - Handbrake: 1.10
- CS USB Adapter - Shifter: 1.12
- CS USB Adapter - CSL Pedals: 1.1
- CS USB Adapter - CSL Elite Pedals: 0.1
ClubSport Handbrake V2 (incl. V1/V1.5)
- Fixed flickering of handbrake input on CS DD(+)
- Improved automatic calibration of handbrake input
- Fixed a sometimes incorrect scaling of handbrake input when setting a maximum value manually
- Fixed losing manual handbrake calibration over time
- New CS HB V2 Picture available when connected via USB
Known Issues
- We are aware of missed shifts and button inputs on the P DDs and are investigating
- When updating the CS DD base firmware, the wheel might not be detected until performing a restart. This is explained in a pop-up during the update procedure.
- When entering a game menu while driving it can happen in some games that the FFB effect doesn't get canceled which results in the wheel turning to one side. (this got now fixed for the Podium DD but can still happen on the CSL DD. We will now apply the fix for the CSL DD as well)
- Natural friction can start to feel weird after some time of driving. In case you experience issues with NFR, we suggest to turn it OFF for now. (this got now fixed for the Podium DD but can still happen on the CSL DD. We will now apply the fix for the CSL DD as well)
- Even though the steering input jump which can result in a FFB jolt improved and happens less often, we still reports of the issue and want to investigate for further improvements
- 16
- Finland
- STS_frequency
I know the SF23 was discussed earlier in this thread - is everyone still experiencing almost non-existent FFB in very slow corners? The best example of this would be the last tight right hander in interlagos (t10, just before the final sector). It seems that no matter how high I crank up the FFB, I just have zero feeling in the wheel in the exit of this corner and lose the rear very easily as a result. Any tips on how to solve this? Using @PivoracBoy settings
- 300
- United States
This doesn't solve it entirely but separate from the FFB tuning menu setting, there is another setting labeled FOR. Crank that up to the max, I think it goes to 140 percent. By doing that and putting the in-game wheel torque all the way to 10, it makes these cars drivable and enjoyable for me again. Still not as good as what it was and what it should be, but I quickly got used to the new way it feels until, hopefully, PD fixes this issue. Kinda shocked it hasn't been fixed by now.
- 16
- Finland
- STS_frequency
Thanks - I'll try that. Do you know if this is something unique to the SF23 specifically or does it affect every car with similar aero - for example the SF19? I can't get on the game for a while so can't test it myself
- 300
- United States
Whatever changed with one of the updates in the past few months affects certain cars similarly. Others on here can probably go into more detail. But from my experience—and I don’t drive the game as much as some here do—it affects the formula cars and some of the other mega cars like the Red Bull.
I know there are others as well but I don’t recall all of them offhand.
One thing I do know is the Gr1 cars and probably some others with super-high performance get insane steering-wheel oscillation at high speed. The only way I’ve found to combat this is to turn the FOR setting way down. But then you potentially end up with the too-light steering feel. In those cases, you just have to mess with the FOR setting to find the best setup that works for you.
None of this is ideal, to say the least.
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- 33
Hey all, no issues, but information sharing in case anyone's interested. BTW, huge help from this thread on knowing what's been happening with DD+.
Purchased DD+ thru Black Friday deal. Ordered Friday and received it Tuesday (ships from Dallas).
Checked S/N on shipping box / retail box / base unit = they're all the same S/N, so working with a new unit, and the shipping box clearly marked CS DD+ US.
Here are out-of-box FW versions on the unit. I don't plan to update these FW unless I am forced(pun) to.
Using below setting:
Coming from DD Pro 8NM, only playing GT7. First impression (still very early) = not a noticeable jump from DD Pro other than more force. Nice to have, but not a significant jump, Yet (still early, need to test various cars).
Question = is it recommended to unplug the power brick when not in use? plug / un-plug in daily basis, or keep it plugged in 24/7. I assume plugged, but not sure what's good hygiene for these base power bricks. For my DD Pro, always had it plugged in, only unplugged during heavy thunderstorms. Thanks for you feedback in advance!
Purchased DD+ thru Black Friday deal. Ordered Friday and received it Tuesday (ships from Dallas).
Checked S/N on shipping box / retail box / base unit = they're all the same S/N, so working with a new unit, and the shipping box clearly marked CS DD+ US.
Here are out-of-box FW versions on the unit. I don't plan to update these FW unless I am forced(pun) to.
- Base: 2.0.0.17
- QR: 0.6.6.5
Using below setting:
- FFB 65
- NDP 5
- NFR 3
- NIN off
- INT 2
- FEI/FOR = 100
- SPR = off
Coming from DD Pro 8NM, only playing GT7. First impression (still very early) = not a noticeable jump from DD Pro other than more force. Nice to have, but not a significant jump, Yet (still early, need to test various cars).
Question = is it recommended to unplug the power brick when not in use? plug / un-plug in daily basis, or keep it plugged in 24/7. I assume plugged, but not sure what's good hygiene for these base power bricks. For my DD Pro, always had it plugged in, only unplugged during heavy thunderstorms. Thanks for you feedback in advance!
- 773
- Germany
- timekiller001
The disconnect issue has allegedly been fixed with FW 462. At the very least only a fraction of those who had them, have them since the update.
I always leave it plugged in.
I always leave it plugged in.
- 215
- France
Can we exchange here our DD+ settings for GT7, I obviously tried some..but GT7 FFB are far from very good compared to all other games..
I presently use:
FFB 50 to 80 depend of the cars ( GT1 high speed vibration are a pain and Red Bull are ridiculous to drive..)
NDP 30
NFR 5
MIN off
INT 3
FEI FOR SPR DPR 100
BLI OFF
VIB ON
MPS AUTO
SHO ON
BRF 40 (with CSL V2 Elite load cell)
In game
Torque 5
Sensitivity 9
PS I use driver 455…no problem…then I dont change…
I presently use:
FFB 50 to 80 depend of the cars ( GT1 high speed vibration are a pain and Red Bull are ridiculous to drive..)
NDP 30
NFR 5
MIN off
INT 3
FEI FOR SPR DPR 100
BLI OFF
VIB ON
MPS AUTO
SHO ON
BRF 40 (with CSL V2 Elite load cell)
In game
Torque 5
Sensitivity 9
PS I use driver 455…no problem…then I dont change…
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