- 5,694
- Codemasters (EA)
- PJTierney
I think I’m going to RMA it and hope for the best, Fanatec have asked I RMA the steering wheel too.
Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Pro
- Thread starter daan
- 2,392 comments
- 428,915 views
- 21
- Australia
Hi guys,
I'm thinking of buying the GT DD Pro 8nm + ClubSport Steering Wheel 320 Alcantara + ClubSport Pedals V3 + ClubSport Shifter SQ V1.5 + ClubSport Handbrake V1.5.
Couple questions for you gurus:
1. Will the above all work on PS5 and GT7?
2. The ClubSport Steering Wheel 320 Alcantara comes with the ClubSport Universal Hub v2. The Hub v2 has 12 different buttons on it (button 1,2,3,4,etc). Can I map these buttons in GT7 to d-pad, triangle, square, circle, etc?
3. I have a Trak Racer TR8 rig from 2021. Has anyone mounted the above gear to this rig before? Does it all fit nicely?
Thanks everyone. Just trying to get some assurance before I pull the $$$ trigger.
I'm thinking of buying the GT DD Pro 8nm + ClubSport Steering Wheel 320 Alcantara + ClubSport Pedals V3 + ClubSport Shifter SQ V1.5 + ClubSport Handbrake V1.5.
Couple questions for you gurus:
1. Will the above all work on PS5 and GT7?
2. The ClubSport Steering Wheel 320 Alcantara comes with the ClubSport Universal Hub v2. The Hub v2 has 12 different buttons on it (button 1,2,3,4,etc). Can I map these buttons in GT7 to d-pad, triangle, square, circle, etc?
3. I have a Trak Racer TR8 rig from 2021. Has anyone mounted the above gear to this rig before? Does it all fit nicely?
Thanks everyone. Just trying to get some assurance before I pull the $$$ trigger.
- 191
- Lamia city
1. Yes no problem. PlayStation compatible wheelbase, anything attached on it works on console and in game.
2. Yes you can. The game will see it as a GT dd pro steering wheel. In the owner's manual of the hub has which button corresponds to what equivalent PS button.
3. Personally i do not have Trak Racer but any rig with Fanatec bolt pattern on the deck is compatible with the DD pro.
2. Yes you can. The game will see it as a GT dd pro steering wheel. In the owner's manual of the hub has which button corresponds to what equivalent PS button.
3. Personally i do not have Trak Racer but any rig with Fanatec bolt pattern on the deck is compatible with the DD pro.
- 2,426
- The failed experiment entitled “California”.
Can someone give these settings a whirl and tell me what you think. Be forewarned, there’s some out of the box values here.
SEN- Auto
FF- 95
Scale- peak
NDP- 100
NFR- off
NIN- off
INT- 12
FEI- 100
FOR- 120
SPR- 100
DPR- 100
In game:
Torque - 5-6
Sensitivity- 1
SEN- Auto
FF- 95
Scale- peak
NDP- 100
NFR- off
NIN- off
INT- 12
FEI- 100
FOR- 120
SPR- 100
DPR- 100
In game:
Torque - 5-6
Sensitivity- 1
- 21
- Australia
Thanks mate. Appreciate the reply!
- 52
Settings for GT7
I first tried to orientate myself on settings from Fanatec and other users in this Forum, but I always had the feeling that I didn't realise what exactly the car was doing. The FF strength was there, but there was no helpful feedback on vehicle control at the limit.
Then I tried to find out my settings myself, which I can recommend to anyone who is not satisfied instead of looking for better settings. I am posting my settings anyway, because I think that many of the settings posted are similar and go in a different direction than mine.
I now have much more feeling for the car, especially regarding understeer, oversteer and centrifugal forces (feeling for the weight of the car).
If you often can't catch a slide because you notice it too late, I can recommend you to give these settings a try.
Hardware: DD Pro 8nm
SEN = AUT
FF= 100
FFS = PEA
NDP = OFF
NFR = 50
NIN = 100
INT = 10
FEI = 100
FOR = 70 - 120 --> like you prefer the strength of FF, i use it at 70 with a 32cm Wheel, but i like it not to strong!
SPR = OFF --> I think this is not supported by GT7
DPR = OFF --> I think this is not supported by GT7
Software: GT7
FF max torque = 4
FF sensitivity = 10 (i know it is recommended 1 for DD steering wheels, but I still prefer it on 10)
I first tried to orientate myself on settings from Fanatec and other users in this Forum, but I always had the feeling that I didn't realise what exactly the car was doing. The FF strength was there, but there was no helpful feedback on vehicle control at the limit.
Then I tried to find out my settings myself, which I can recommend to anyone who is not satisfied instead of looking for better settings. I am posting my settings anyway, because I think that many of the settings posted are similar and go in a different direction than mine.
I now have much more feeling for the car, especially regarding understeer, oversteer and centrifugal forces (feeling for the weight of the car).
If you often can't catch a slide because you notice it too late, I can recommend you to give these settings a try.
Hardware: DD Pro 8nm
SEN = AUT
FF= 100
FFS = PEA
NDP = OFF
NFR = 50
NIN = 100
INT = 10
FEI = 100
FOR = 70 - 120 --> like you prefer the strength of FF, i use it at 70 with a 32cm Wheel, but i like it not to strong!
SPR = OFF --> I think this is not supported by GT7
DPR = OFF --> I think this is not supported by GT7
Software: GT7
FF max torque = 4
FF sensitivity = 10 (i know it is recommended 1 for DD steering wheels, but I still prefer it on 10)
Last edited:
- 52
- 21
- Australia
Thanks for the response mate. Are you running the 5nm and 8nm on the DD Pro? do you feel much chassis flex on the DD Pro? Thanks.
- 52
- 23
- Czech Republic
- TUNA_350Z
No offence, but this is the worst settings I've ever tried. It's so far from driving. Driving anything.
- 52
- 23
- Czech Republic
- TUNA_350Z
FFB 80, NDP 5, INT 3 - other as recommended by Fanatec. In Game 5, 1.No problem, everyone has their personal preferences. Can I at least ask what settings you use? Then I can compare it myself. Who knows, maybe you'll get me to even better settings!
But still I'm not happy, so I was looking forward you complete different approach
Only good and entertaining feeling was in 1.15 update. And then they ruined it again 
- 52
Thank you, will give it a try!
I would be very interested to know how it felt with 1.15 version. However, I have only had the DD Pro for 3 weeks and have only been able to test it with the current version of GT7 so far.
I would be very interested to know how it felt with 1.15 version. However, I have only had the DD Pro for 3 weeks and have only been able to test it with the current version of GT7 so far.
RS60NR
Premium
- 245
- United States
I’ve been trying to find decent setup as well, but have not found it yet. Yes 1.15 was the best, lots of detail and nuance in the tires, however it reduced overall FFB levels so it needed some big changes to the settings, which confused people. Lots of complaints. And on wheels less than 8nm was hard to get it strong enough - more complaints, so they messed it up several times since in trying to address those complaints. SO frustrating…still.
- 444
- Sweden
I didn't need to try it to see how it'd feel.
If you want FFB from the game as it was intended, turn off all effects and filters. This would be Fanatec standard tuning but NDP and INT off. Since GT7 FFB is only 60Hz while many sims have 400Hz+, you'll need at least INT 1 for it to not feel too harsh on the hands. Other games feel excellent with INT off. NDP is just stupid (just hold the wheel and you won't have oscillation, and some games don't have oscillation at all), a well as NIN/NFR.
And if the game still feels bad, play something else. GT7 has really bad FFB and nothing you do in a DD wheel base setting menu will change that.
Regarding in-game settings in GT7, they're quite broken as well. FFB strength is gain (1 is lowest and 10 is highest), while FFB sensitivity is linearity (1 is as linear as possible, and higher numbers lowers linearity).
To avoid clipping, you need to have as little gain as possible, but even 1 clips as hell in GT7 with faster cars (broken FFB).
Sensitivity should be at 1 unless you have a weak wheel base and can't feel the faintest signals in the middle.
Everyone opposing this is wrong. Read the manuals and try real sims and you'll understand. Bye.
- 52
NDP is off in my setting, it damps the complete FFB signal, makes no sense for me
NIN gives me the feel of a more real steering resistance, when its turned off in GT7 it feels like a spring wich i really dont like.
NFR gives me the feeling for the weight of the car and good control over the rear of the vehicle.
INT as you say, it must be at least 1 (for me more), otherwise the signals feel too digital.
That's my opinion on it. I think you explained it very theoretically, yes, in theory I would have set it quite differently. But GT7 seems to be a special case.
I also think Fanatec's specifications for GT7 are ****. It may be that it gives you a good feeling for a leisurely drive, but you don't notice anything there except continuous counterpressure while driving through curves.
- 191
- Lamia city
FFB in Gran Turismo 7 is not informative at all.
What ever settings i have in my GT DD pro there are not going to make the "bad" FfB feel better. It is what it is.
But according to DD pro manual and from what i understand in my 10 year experience with ffb wheels, and about 6 years with Fanatec gear, much of the settings in Fanatec wheel bases are ffb filters. So when we adjust we must not "kill" ffb with overdose of filters but to enhance the over all feel
About in game settings:
FFb strength: As it is mentioned above is "gain". The closer to 10 you go the more you raise the "volume" of the forces. But unfortunately above 6 there is a lot of clipping. It is so obvious that i can not understand why people keep this value above 6.
FfB sensitivity: It is the dynamic range "value" for the FFb. The higher you go the less dynamic range you have. Value 1 is the highest dynamic range you can take from the game. If you go 10 the lightest road bump will feel no different to a sausage kerb. Higher values can help the low force belt/cogged drive wheel bases. You can go up to value 2 with 5nm DD pro or might need up to 3 with TGT or even higher with a G29. But value 7/8/10 with DDpro which is a direct drive base with such potential it is really odd.
About wheelbase settings (tuning menu):
SEN____ everybody understands this. Auto is the best option for a realistic steering wheel input. Although i understand why people might want a slight more/less than the car's stock degrees of rotation.
FF____ Force Feedback defines the maximum strength of the motor when force feedback effects from software / games are sent to the base. For stronger feedback, it is better to run a higher ‘FF’ value in the Tuning Menu rather than turning up the in-game strength value (to avoid clipping). "straight out of the manual"
FFS____ This is also easy to understand. Peak you have all the power of the motor 8nm boost kit/5nm no boost kit. When in LIN you only have the holding torque of the motor 6nm boost kit/4nm no boost kit.
NDP____ This setting provides additional damping on the steering wheel and is useful for controlling the speed of the wheel during oversteer, and also helps to reduce wheel oscillation. "straight out of the manual".(FILTER)
NFR____ This setting is used to simulate the mechanical feel of steering components and can help with oscillation.(FILTER)
NIN____ This setting simulates additional steering weight and is very useful with very light steering wheels such as csl wheel. (FILTER)
INT____ This setting smooths and interpolates FFB by filtering game output without FFB detail loss.(FILTER)
FEI____ This setting adjusts the overall intensity and smoothness of force effects but the lower you go the less detail you have. (FILTER)
FOR____ Forces the steering wheel in a specific direction "straight out of the manual"
SPR____ According to Maurice this is not supported by GT7 (also from my testing i can not feel any difference) but when calibrating the steering wheel it is needed in order to have the correct centre position.
DPR____ According to Maurice this is not supported by GT7 (also from my testing i can not feel any difference)
So the raw signal of GT7 is what you feel with no (FILTERS) from the tuning menu. Everything to off/0 except FEI in 100 (it kind of works backwards).
After all we do not have the G-forces as in our real life cars. Also to like the feel because after all it is personal preference.
The common sense is to adjust the filters in those values that can give us the most reallistic and "real" feel that we can get from the game but without loosing detail and to understand what the car is doing.
I believe the first think everyone should understand is to dial the in game settings. Then in the tuning menu. If it feels too heavy just revisit the in game FFB strength and lower the value to 4 or even lower.
Understanding all the above i came up with the following settings:
In game:
FF max torque= 5 (no clipping in every single secnario, might go up to 6 but i prefer to raise *FOR to 110 or 120 if i want to feel like a real man lol)
FF sensitivity= 1
Gt DDpro 8nm ( gt3/gt4/racing cars with Mclaren v2 wheel , street cars with Clubsport Rs)
SEN= AUT
FF= 100
FFS= PEA
NDP= 20 (sometimes i use 28 in combination with NFR 10)
NFR= 18 (sometimes i use 10 in combination with NDP 28)
NIN= 0 (on some cars i use only up to 3 with Mclaren v2 wheel qr1 lite)
INT= 2 (on some street cars with soft suspension i use 1)
FEI= 100
FOR= 100 (*some times a bit more)
SPR= OFF (When i want to calibrate my steering wheel after updates i always use 100 to help have the correct centre position)
DPR= OFF
Sorry for the long post. I hope it might help someone.
What ever settings i have in my GT DD pro there are not going to make the "bad" FfB feel better. It is what it is.
But according to DD pro manual and from what i understand in my 10 year experience with ffb wheels, and about 6 years with Fanatec gear, much of the settings in Fanatec wheel bases are ffb filters. So when we adjust we must not "kill" ffb with overdose of filters but to enhance the over all feel
About in game settings:
FFb strength: As it is mentioned above is "gain". The closer to 10 you go the more you raise the "volume" of the forces. But unfortunately above 6 there is a lot of clipping. It is so obvious that i can not understand why people keep this value above 6.
FfB sensitivity: It is the dynamic range "value" for the FFb. The higher you go the less dynamic range you have. Value 1 is the highest dynamic range you can take from the game. If you go 10 the lightest road bump will feel no different to a sausage kerb. Higher values can help the low force belt/cogged drive wheel bases. You can go up to value 2 with 5nm DD pro or might need up to 3 with TGT or even higher with a G29. But value 7/8/10 with DDpro which is a direct drive base with such potential it is really odd.
About wheelbase settings (tuning menu):
SEN____ everybody understands this. Auto is the best option for a realistic steering wheel input. Although i understand why people might want a slight more/less than the car's stock degrees of rotation.
FF____ Force Feedback defines the maximum strength of the motor when force feedback effects from software / games are sent to the base. For stronger feedback, it is better to run a higher ‘FF’ value in the Tuning Menu rather than turning up the in-game strength value (to avoid clipping). "straight out of the manual"
FFS____ This is also easy to understand. Peak you have all the power of the motor 8nm boost kit/5nm no boost kit. When in LIN you only have the holding torque of the motor 6nm boost kit/4nm no boost kit.
NDP____ This setting provides additional damping on the steering wheel and is useful for controlling the speed of the wheel during oversteer, and also helps to reduce wheel oscillation. "straight out of the manual".(FILTER)
NFR____ This setting is used to simulate the mechanical feel of steering components and can help with oscillation.(FILTER)
NIN____ This setting simulates additional steering weight and is very useful with very light steering wheels such as csl wheel. (FILTER)
INT____ This setting smooths and interpolates FFB by filtering game output without FFB detail loss.(FILTER)
FEI____ This setting adjusts the overall intensity and smoothness of force effects but the lower you go the less detail you have. (FILTER)
FOR____ Forces the steering wheel in a specific direction "straight out of the manual"
SPR____ According to Maurice this is not supported by GT7 (also from my testing i can not feel any difference) but when calibrating the steering wheel it is needed in order to have the correct centre position.
DPR____ According to Maurice this is not supported by GT7 (also from my testing i can not feel any difference)
So the raw signal of GT7 is what you feel with no (FILTERS) from the tuning menu. Everything to off/0 except FEI in 100 (it kind of works backwards).
After all we do not have the G-forces as in our real life cars. Also to like the feel because after all it is personal preference.
The common sense is to adjust the filters in those values that can give us the most reallistic and "real" feel that we can get from the game but without loosing detail and to understand what the car is doing.
I believe the first think everyone should understand is to dial the in game settings. Then in the tuning menu. If it feels too heavy just revisit the in game FFB strength and lower the value to 4 or even lower.
Understanding all the above i came up with the following settings:
In game:
FF max torque= 5 (no clipping in every single secnario, might go up to 6 but i prefer to raise *FOR to 110 or 120 if i want to feel like a real man lol)
FF sensitivity= 1
Gt DDpro 8nm ( gt3/gt4/racing cars with Mclaren v2 wheel , street cars with Clubsport Rs)
SEN= AUT
FF= 100
FFS= PEA
NDP= 20 (sometimes i use 28 in combination with NFR 10)
NFR= 18 (sometimes i use 10 in combination with NDP 28)
NIN= 0 (on some cars i use only up to 3 with Mclaren v2 wheel qr1 lite)
INT= 2 (on some street cars with soft suspension i use 1)
FEI= 100
FOR= 100 (*some times a bit more)
SPR= OFF (When i want to calibrate my steering wheel after updates i always use 100 to help have the correct centre position)
DPR= OFF
Sorry for the long post. I hope it might help someone.
Last edited:
- 2,426
- The failed experiment entitled “California”.
- 5,694
- Codemasters (EA)
- PJTierney
There’s one addition to that if you use Loadcell brakes
BRF - This helps you determine how hard pressing the brake pedal will be when you want 100% brake input. Loadcell pedals are different to standard ones because they measure input based on pressure rather than travel.
BRF - This helps you determine how hard pressing the brake pedal will be when you want 100% brake input. Loadcell pedals are different to standard ones because they measure input based on pressure rather than travel.
Last edited:
- 20
- Hillcrest, Dbn
- Sostate31
Hi guys looking for some info. I just got my GT DD Pro setup yesterday and don't have much time on it, but i have come across an issue.
My issue is the GT7 in game MFD. The DD Pro wheel has the red, yellow, green & blue 5D buttons. When the game starts initially, the track map is displayed in the MFD, i can use the lower left black 5D toggle to to switch between the map, radar, weather radar etc, However if i then use the Blue TC button, the MFD goes directly to the TC map, and up and down toggle adjusts that, as do the ed, green and yellow do as they should. No issues there.
What i can't seem to do is, find out which button returns me to the map, radar or weather radar?
Anyone also have this?
My issue is the GT7 in game MFD. The DD Pro wheel has the red, yellow, green & blue 5D buttons. When the game starts initially, the track map is displayed in the MFD, i can use the lower left black 5D toggle to to switch between the map, radar, weather radar etc, However if i then use the Blue TC button, the MFD goes directly to the TC map, and up and down toggle adjusts that, as do the ed, green and yellow do as they should. No issues there.
What i can't seem to do is, find out which button returns me to the map, radar or weather radar?
Anyone also have this?
- 773
- Germany
- timekiller001
I'm not quite sure I get what you ask for. According to your description the normal stick (the black one) is used for navigating through the different pages. I don't think there is the possibility to have fixed buttons for the other pages
Are you in PS4 compatibility mode? Because I do the navigating with the yellow one (in normal PS mode)
Last edited:
- 248
- China & USA
GT7 1.23 Update Details
Edit:
Quite a disappointing implementation after trying it, the Formula wheel is only almost fully mappable if you are using the Podium DD1, even then you still won't be able to map all rotary encoders, and the functions are hardcoded.
Here's the result on my GT DD Pro with three wheels (Formula V2.5, McLaren GT3, and Universal Hub + Podium Button Module Endurance): none of the 12-position encoders work at all; only the thumb encoders on the Formula V2.5 work, the left one is for fuel mapping, and the right one is for brake balance; the funky switch on the Formula V2.5 now does general MFD up/down by rotation; the funky switches rotation on other wheels do fuel mapping when fuel consumption is enabled (and the direction is counterintuitive), otherwise they only do MFD down, that's right, they don't dial things up, quite weird.
GT7 finally added rotary encoder support!
Edit:
Quite a disappointing implementation after trying it, the Formula wheel is only almost fully mappable if you are using the Podium DD1, even then you still won't be able to map all rotary encoders, and the functions are hardcoded.
Here's the result on my GT DD Pro with three wheels (Formula V2.5, McLaren GT3, and Universal Hub + Podium Button Module Endurance): none of the 12-position encoders work at all; only the thumb encoders on the Formula V2.5 work, the left one is for fuel mapping, and the right one is for brake balance; the funky switch on the Formula V2.5 now does general MFD up/down by rotation; the funky switches rotation on other wheels do fuel mapping when fuel consumption is enabled (and the direction is counterintuitive), otherwise they only do MFD down, that's right, they don't dial things up, quite weird.
Last edited:
- 20
- Hillcrest, Dbn
- Sostate31
Thanks timekiller001, i checked this morning and the yellow button serves as the function i was looking for.
Thanks for your help, much appreciated.
- 23
- Czech Republic
- TUNA_350Z
This is the best settings I've driven! Finally I can feel the grip of tyres. Amazing settings! Thanks a lot!
- 52
I would be very interested to know exactly which rotary switches are meant by this and whether they can be freely assigned or have a fixed function.
I'm thinking of buying the McLaren steering wheel, which also has 3 rotary switches, can anyone tell me what you can do with them now? Or are these perhaps not affected?
- 105
- Germany
From the 3 MPS you mean only 2 are designed to work in games, the middle one is exclusively to change the ACP mode for the Clutch Paddles.
However, the update seems to have only included the FunkySwitch Rotary function and they even did a mistake with the directions which are swapped...
- 52
Thank you, I didn't know that!
I'll have to test that later. I currently have the Clubsport RS steering wheel, which also has a funky switch.
May I ask which steering wheel or wheels you tested this on?
Last edited:
- 4,923
- Bulgaria
The middle MPS is used only to change the mode of the analog paddles.
The other two MPS do not currently work with the GT7, but the ABS, TC, fuel map and 4WD function can be adjusted with the two 2-way toggle switches.
The fuel map can also be adjusted with the rotary function of the FunkySwitch, but it seems PD made a mistake and works in the opposite direction of rotation, I turn right and the position goes left.
- 52
- 444
- Sweden
Depends on the car. If you pick anything with lots of downforce, in grippy situations you'll have clipping during normal cornering even with FF max torque 1. It's useless - you have to drive by visuals, not by FFB. It doesn't happen with slow road cars though.
It's easily replicated by inducing clipping in RaceRoom. You can make that game feel exactly like GTS/GT7 FFB. Or you can unleash full dynamic range, 100% linearity and feel what GT7 should feel like if PD weren't incompetent in this area.
And for the 100th time, Fanatec settings don't matter when it comes to the biggest problem, the clipping output signal from the game. I facepalm every time I see someone posting a new magic recipe, when it's not even relevant for the main issue.
Look at this graph. That's GT7 FFB. Everything above the red line is cut off and all you feel is a dull heavy spring effect towards middle (clipping).
This is what it should look like if you want to feel what's going on in corners. Detail remains throughout the corner.
For a short while, when they turned down the gain because of oscillating in some silly car a couple of months ago, the FFB was excellent. But people with weak wheel bases wanted their gain back, so we all got clipping back as well. PD don't seem to be able to let us set this up ourselves.
Anyway, I sold my PS5 when they reverted to clipping, the day after trying RaceRoom and understanding what it actually can feel like.
From old to new FFB (Tips & Info)
Transition to the New FFB It's finally time for everyone to get their hands on the new FFB in RaceRoom! As we have explained in the announcement in...
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