Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Pro

[R55NA]

It's % of the total cost so yes, convert to £ and add 20%. Yeah you can't get a DD Pro anywhere but direct.

You can sometimes get it off of here:

Digital-Motorsports.com: Global Sim Racing Store

Digital-Motorsports.com serves the global driver simulation market & are the world's leading one-stop sim racing store. We are official distributors for Fanatec, Sim Lab, Thrustmaster, Cube Controls, Simucube & many more. We specialise in custom, turn-key simulator solutions built to clients...

digital-motorsports.com

 

[Abarth_71]

You can sometimes get it off of here:

Digital-Motorsports.com: Global Sim Racing Store

Digital-Motorsports.com serves the global driver simulation market & are the world's leading one-stop sim racing store. We are official distributors for Fanatec, Sim Lab, Thrustmaster, Cube Controls, Simucube & many more. We specialise in custom, turn-key simulator solutions built to clients...

digital-motorsports.com

With limited stock even from Fanatec they never seem to have the DD Pro. Same issue as with buying direct, need to pay the VAT.

 

[PirovacBoy]

Hi mate, I've ordered the exact same setup including the play seat. Could you tell me if Fanatec supply bolts for mounting DD and pedals to the playseat? If not would you the bolt size needed. Thanks mark

Hey man congrats on your purchase you made a good decision.
Unfortunately Neither Fanatec nor Playseat provide the necessary M-Screws/Bolts for both Wheel and Pedals.
I‘m currently not at home to exactly tell you the size you need.
For the Wheel I think I used 3x M6 15mm long. The Wheelplate is 5mm thick and the max insertion length into the Wheelbase is 10mm, so m6 and 15mm is the max possible length to use.
For the pedals I used either 4x m8 or m6 20 or 24 mm long. And 2x counter screw to fix the front of the Pedals.
The rear of the pedal plate the screws just fit into into the pre drilled openings.
Anyways it was not expensive so I’d suggest to get them as soon as possible and when your setup arrives you’re good to go.
As a Little side note now after 12months of heavy daily use EVERYTHING is still as it was on the day I got it.
The quality is excellent. No rattle or flex, nothing.
This thing is rock solid and unreal comfy.

 

[m19hem]

With limited stock even from Fanatec they never seem to have the DD Pro. Same issue as with buying direct, need to pay the VAT.

Perfect, Thanks for info mate

Hey man congrats on your purchase you made a good decision.
Unfortunately Neither Fanatec nor Playseat provide the necessary M-Screws/Bolts for both Wheel and Pedals.
I‘m currently not at home to exactly tell you the size you need.
For the Wheel I think I used 3x M6 15mm long. The Wheelplate is 5mm thick and the max insertion length into the Wheelbase is 10mm, so m6 and 15mm is the max possible length to use.
For the pedals I used either 4x m8 or m6 20 or 24 mm long. And 2x counter screw to fix the front of the Pedals.
The rear of the pedal plate the screws just fit into into the pre drilled openings.
Anyways it was not expensive so I’d suggest to get them as soon as possible and when your setup arrives you’re good to go.
As a Little side note now after 12months of heavy daily use EVERYTHING is still as it was on the day I got it.
The quality is excellent. No rattle or flex, nothing.
This thing is rock solid and unreal comfy.

Thanks mate. Will order these asap

 

[B80]

Has anyone here upgraded the pedals to clubsport v3? Also intersted in the damper kit potentially, to give apparently more realistic feel. Read a review that say damper kit is a must (or at least really enhances the prdals)... assune need to buy one for boyh pedals I use (just accelerator/gas and the brake).

I've been running with the standard dd pro pedals this past year.

Interested to hear people's opinions...

ClubSport Pedals V3

The custom made load cell is extremely durable and much more precise as the one in V2. You can apply a realistic and strong pressure and precisely control the brake with muscle tension just like in a real car.

fanatec.com

ClubSport Pedals V3 Damper Kit

The hydraulic damper in addition of the pressure sensitive load cell gives you the familiar feeling of a hydraulic brake.

fanatec.com

 

[snc]

Has anyone here upgraded the pedals to clubsport v3? Also intersted in the damper kit potentially, to give apparently more realistic feel. Read a review that say damper kit is a must (or at least really enhances the prdals)... assune need to buy one for boyh pedals I use (just accelerator/gas and the brake).

I didnt use it but Kie25 removed it from his v3 inverted as he didnt like it. From what and many other says for v3 brake performance kit is must (20$ elastomer springs).

 

[B80]

I didnt use it but Kie25 removed it from his v3 inverted as he didnt like it. From what and many other says for v3 brake performance kit is must (20$ elastomer springs).

Do you have the clubsports? How do you rate them versus standard gt dd pro pedals?

 

[Nightwing24]

Has anyone here upgraded the pedals to clubsport v3? Also intersted in the damper kit potentially, to give apparently more realistic feel. Read a review that say damper kit is a must (or at least really enhances the prdals)... assune need to buy one for boyh pedals I use (just accelerator/gas and the brake).

I've been running with the standard dd pro pedals this past year.

Interested to hear people's opinions...

ClubSport Pedals V3

The custom made load cell is extremely durable and much more precise as the one in V2. You can apply a realistic and strong pressure and precisely control the brake with muscle tension just like in a real car.

fanatec.com

ClubSport Pedals V3 Damper Kit

The hydraulic damper in addition of the pressure sensitive load cell gives you the familiar feeling of a hydraulic brake.

fanatec.com

I have on both accounts. The dampener is not necessary and I don’t recommend for brake pedal specifically. I have mine on my gas with a bit more than 1/4 of the available dampening force to allow for smoother gas pedal usage. It has helped on turn exits and standing grid starts.

For the brake the performance kit is a must:

ClubSport Pedals V3 Brake Performance Kit

The human body memorizes muscle tension much better than foot position. This is why all car brakes measure the pressure and not the travel. Race and F1 cars have almost no travel at all.

fanatec.com

The difference is night and day, and the better you get at braking the harder you end up preferring the load cell brakes. It allows for more precise control. The dampener on brakes adds a delay to the brake pedal springing back to its 0 position so it seems to hinder the brakes in my opinion as opposed to enhancing as it does to the gas pedal.

Do you have the clubsports? How do you rate them versus standard gt dd pro pedals?

The Clubsport V3 pedals feel heavy duty and closer to real pedals. It needs to be bolted to a rig since it has a load cell brake. The ones that came with the GT DD Pro feel more like fake pedals in comparison even though they are sturdy and solid in their own right.

Also the Clubsport V3 Pedals also have more travel (edit: I mean more articulation, not travel. Brake can be set to minimum travel distance) so they are far more precise in controlling the amount of braking and gas as opposed to the others that kind of feel like more of an on/off switch by comparison.

They also are configurable and you can change the travel distance and springs for hardness.

Bonus: if you play ACC the rumble motors on the Clubsport V3 pedals are compatible with the game and work.

 

[m19hem]

I have also both wheels and what you descibe has nothing to do with it.I love the McLaren but it initally rattles like a box of tic tacs
I did two mods on this thing to to silence the shifter and buttons.It‘s awesome now.

What mods did you do mate ? I've got this wheel coming soon.

If you hear noise like in this video, then it is QR1, watch the video to the end to find out how to reduce the noise.
The other option is to use the bolt provided with QR1.



I used 6mm wide sheet metal, the thickness is 0.2 mm.

Guys please tell me this is a faulty base, cos Thats ridiculous... Sounds like it's grinding inside the wheel base??? Does anybody else's sound even 10% of the so called fix mod. as I just purchased around £1500 worth of stuff and was led to believe these run quieter than a belt drive. That noise can't be considered acceptable under any circumstance. Seriously thinking I just **** the bed with my choice of DD may have time to cancel as not been shipped yet.

 

[B80]

I have on both accounts. The dampener is not necessary and I don’t recommend for brake pedal specifically. I have mine on my gas with a bit more than 1/4 of the available dampening force to allow for smoother gas pedal usage. It has helped on turn exits and standing grid starts.

For the brake the performance kit is a must:

ClubSport Pedals V3 Brake Performance Kit

The human body memorizes muscle tension much better than foot position. This is why all car brakes measure the pressure and not the travel. Race and F1 cars have almost no travel at all.

fanatec.com

The difference is night and day, and the better you get at braking the harder you end up preferring the load cell brakes. It allows for more precise control. The dampener on brakes adds a delay to the brake pedal springing back to its 0 position so it seems to hinder the brakes in my opinion as opposed to enhancing as it does to the gas pedal.




The Clubsport V3 pedals feel heavy duty and closer to real pedals. It needs to be bolted to a rig since it has a load cell brake. The ones that came with the GT DD Pro feel more like fake pedals in comparison even though they are sturdy and solid in their own right.

Also the Clubsport V3 Pedals also have more travel (edit: I mean more articulation, not travel. Brake can be set to minimum travel distance) so they are far more precise in controlling the amount of braking and gas as opposed to the others that kind of feel like more of an on/off switch by comparison.

They also are configurable and you can change the travel distance and springs for hardness.

Bonus: if you play ACC the rumble motors on the Clubsport V3 pedals are compatible with the game and work.

Nice, great writeup and insight... appreciate it!

OK so sounds like it's worth getting 1xperformance kit and do you think 1xdampener for the 'gas', or would you get something else for that?

I have psvr2 now, so not sure when/if I'll be playing anything (at least racing/driving game wise) that isn't vr any time soon... re ACC being supported (I do have it though).

Assume pedals work fine with gt7, no 'quirks' at all?

 

[super_gt]

Guys please tell me this is a faulty base, cos Thats ridiculous... Sounds like it's grinding inside the wheel base??? Does anybody else's sound even 10% of the so called fix mod. as I just purchased around £1500 worth of stuff and was led to believe these run quieter than a belt drive. That noise can't be considered acceptable under any circumstance. Seriously thinking I just **** the bed with my choice of DD may have time to cancel as not been shipped yet.

There is a bolt provided with QR1 which eliminates this noise, and whether your QR1 will be so noisy if you don't use the provided bolt is a bit of luck.

 

[Abarth_71]

What mods did you do mate ? I've got this wheel coming soon.

I swapped out the paddles on the McLaren with these from SimMakerz, massive improvement over stock which I found uncomfortable and noisy. As for the rattling mine seemed less noticeable after I'd taken it apart to fit the new paddles.
And don't panic about that video.

 

[m19hem]

There is a bolt provided with QR1 which eliminates this noise, and whether your QR1 will be so noisy if you don't use the provided bolt is a bit of luck.

I think the guy said he had the bolt fitted. Also I ordered 2 QR1 upgraded aluminium quik Releases 1 for the GT wheel it comes with and one for the McLaren wheel. So there should be zero grinding noise if everything is properly fitted and you don't have a faulty qr1?

 

[super_gt]

I think the guy said he had the bolt fitted. Also I ordered 2 QR1 upgraded aluminium quik Releases 1 for the GT wheel it comes with and one for the McLaren wheel. So there should be zero grinding noise if everything is properly fitted and you don't have a faulty qr1?

The bolt is not installed in this video.
If the bolt is installed the QR1 will be quiet, with some people it is relatively quiet even without an installed bolt, but that depends on the tolerances.

 

[m19hem]

I swapped out the paddles on the McLaren with these from SimMakerz, massive improvement over stock which I found uncomfortable and noisy. As for the rattling mine seemed less noticeable after I'd taken it apart to fit the new paddles.
And don't panic about that video.

Where can I buy one 😁

The bolt is not installed in this video.
If the bolt is installed the QR1 will be quiet, with some people it is relatively quiet even without an installed bolt, but that depends on the tolerances.

Thanks. That's a relief as I've just had email stating shipping status has changed can no longer cancel order.

 

[Abarth_71]

Where can I buy one 😁

From here, it's the V2 kit you need. You have to dismantle the wheel but it's pretty easy with the right tools. I've put a video guide that I used below.

 

[Nightwing24]

Nice, great writeup and insight... appreciate it!

OK so sounds like it's worth getting 1xperformance kit and do you think 1xdampener for the 'gas', or would you get something else for that?

I have psvr2 now, so not sure when/if I'll be playing anything (at least racing/driving game wise) that isn't vr any time soon... re ACC being supported (I do have it though).

I love the dampening kit for the throttle, but cannot in good conscience recommend you spend €80 on it knowing it is something that seemingly half of people won’t like. All reviews I read or saw on it were about half recommended and half saying it isn’t worth it. I have trouble with smooth throttle control when I am overly excited in a race so it benefits me and I like it very much.

But for €80 I’d say it might be better invested in getting a amplifier and 2 35W transducers to use tactile feedback on your rig with GT7, rather than the dampener for the pedals.

Assume pedals work fine with gt7, no 'quirks' at all?

Yes, except for the vibration motor on the pedals don’t work with GT7. I do use tactile motors to rumble my rig for GT7 as I mentioned instead of the dampener as an investment, so I do not miss it at all. Game allows to set the tolerances for travel on throttle and brake pedals as well which is great.

The only 2 issues I have had are very minor and non issues in my opinion:

1- I wanted to change positions of the clutch and brake. Leaving the clutch in the middle since I only use paddles for shifting. The bolts that hold the entire pedals together are aluminum and I cannot remove them as they strip the bolt itself, so I cannot make this modification on mine.

2- to update its firmware, you have to plug it directly to the PC via usb and it is a pain to either remove it from my rig, or snake a usb cable under it to connect it while bolted to my rig.

 

[m19hem]

From here, it's the V2 kit you need. You have to dismantle the wheel but it's pretty easy with the right tools. I've put a video guide that I used below.

Perfect thanks mate.That will be too of the list when my new Fanatec arrives.

 

[B80]

I love the dampening kit for the throttle, but cannot in good conscience recommend you spend €80 on it knowing it is something that seemingly half of people won’t like. All reviews I read or saw on it were about half recommended and half saying it isn’t worth it. I have trouble with smooth throttle control when I am overly excited in a race so it benefits me and I like it very much.

But for €80 I’d say it might be better invested in getting a amplifier and 2 35W transducers to use tactile feedback on your rig with GT7, rather than the dampener for the pedals.



Yes, except for the vibration motor on the pedals don’t work with GT7. I do use tactile motors to rumble my rig for GT7 as I mentioned instead of the dampener as an investment, so I do not miss it at all. Game allows to set the tolerances for travel on throttle and brake pedals as well which is great.

The only 2 issues I have had are very minor and non issues in my opinion:

1- I wanted to change positions of the clutch and brake. Leaving the clutch in the middle since I only use paddles for shifting. The bolts that hold the entire pedals together are aluminum and I cannot remove them as they strip the bolt itself, so I cannot make this modification on mine.

2- to update its firmware, you have to plug it directly to the PC via usb and it is a pain to either remove it from my rig, or snake a usb cable under it to connect it while bolted to my rig.

Lovely, thanks again mate. I'll probably give the dampening kit a go tbh.

I'm now weighing up whether to buy 2nd hand from ebay, for around £300 for kit that's up to a year old (but apparently good condition/well looked after) or fanatec Germany direct.

Going to be looking at around £500 or more (once customs demand their cut) plus not sure what fanatec turnaround is, as they're being as elusive as usual - customer services.

 

[ron24]

Do you have the clubsports? How do you rate them versus standard gt dd pro pedals?

I owned CS v1 and v2 v3 pedals loved them all. I currently I own the Csl's that come with the DT DDPRO base with the brake mod pedal. Csl's are not as good as CS pedals but I'm very happy with the Csl's. Depends how much you want and have to spend. Half the cost.

 

[Abarth_71]

Just to chip in my opinion...I'd save the money and just add the load cell to the CSL pedals. I've had mine for nearly a year and am really happy with it. The only thing I didn't like about the CSLs was how weak the throttle spring was. As I don't use the old brake pedal as a clutch I put the arm and spring from that on the throttle. It's a bit stiffer and feels a lot better to me.

 

[RS60NR]

Do you have the clubsports? How do you rate them versus standard gt dd pro pedals?

I’ve had the std V3 for years, happy w them but then went to the inverted when Fanatec had them on Black friday sale. Really like the inverted position a lot more, especially the clutch, but I’m more into the road cars. The inverteds came w the damper on the brake, and it helps mimic the road car feel. They can still be set pretty firm but if you want to lean more towards the race setup where its all pressure, then the elastomer upgrade kit will do that. If you go that way then the damper won’t really add any value

I’d just put the stiffer spring on the gas and skip the damper there.

 

[m19hem]

Hey man congrats on your purchase you made a good decision.
Unfortunately Neither Fanatec nor Playseat provide the necessary M-Screws/Bolts for both Wheel and Pedals.
I‘m currently not at home to exactly tell you the size you need.
For the Wheel I think I used 3x M6 15mm long. The Wheelplate is 5mm thick and the max insertion length into the Wheelbase is 10mm, so m6 and 15mm is the max possible length to use.
For the pedals I used either 4x m8 or m6 20 or 24 mm long. And 2x counter screw to fix the front of the Pedals.
The rear of the pedal plate the screws just fit into into the pre drilled openings.
Anyways it was not expensive so I’d suggest to get them as soon as possible and when your setup arrives you’re good to go.
As a Little side note now after 12months of heavy daily use EVERYTHING is still as it was on the day I got it.
The quality is excellent. No rattle or flex, nothing.
This thing is rock solid and unreal comfy.

Hey mate, so my rig is coming early next week I've read every page on this thread and can see your settings for GT7 are pretty much considered the gold standard. Just curious as the last updated settings I can find of yours are from June 2022 when I do the firmware and patch updates next week are those June 2022 settings still considered relevent? Also would you have the recommended settings for the loadcell Brake aswell?

 

[Abarth_71]

Hey mate, so my rig is coming early next week I've read every page on this thread and can see your settings for GT7 are pretty much considered the gold standard. Just curious as the last updated settings I can find of yours are from June 2022 when I do the firmware and patch updates next week are those June 2022 settings still considered relevent? Also would you have the recommended settings for the loadcell Brake aswell?

Give mine a try as well, think they were quite well received when I posted them a few weeks ago. As for the load cell the elastomers take time to soften so set the BRF high if you can, I run mine at 85%. They are stiff so more pressure required will give more pedal travel and make it easier to modulate the pedal for trail braking.

SEN AUTO
FFB 100
PEAK
NDP OFF
NFR 4
NIN OFF
INT OFF
FEI 100
FOR 110
SPR OFF
DPR OFF

In game 5 & 1.

 

[m19hem]

Give mine a try as well, think they were quite well received when I posted them a few weeks ago. As for the load cell the elastomers take time to soften so set the BRF high if you can, I run mine at 85%. They are stiff so more pressure required will give more pedal travel and make it easier to modulate the pedal for trail braking.

SEN AUTO
FFB 100
PEAK
NDP OFF
NFR 4
NIN OFF
INT OFF
FEI 100
FOR 110
SPR OFF
DPR OFF

In game 5 & 1.

Thanks mate, 100% will try these out. I'm not even gonna use the Fanatec recommend settings. Will just jump in with yours and PirovacBoy's willing to bet you two have put more effort into the best feeling setup currently possible 👍🏼

 

[m19hem]

Give mine a try as well, think they were quite well received when I posted them a few weeks ago. As for the load cell the elastomers take time to soften so set the BRF high if you can, I run mine at 85%. They are stiff so more pressure required will give more pedal travel and make it easier to modulate the pedal for trail braking.

SEN AUTO
FFB 100
PEAK
NDP OFF
NFR 4
NIN OFF
INT OFF
FEI 100
FOR 110
SPR OFF
DPR OFF

In game 5 & 1.Will these settings differ with the rim used? Was looking to use the GT rim for the slower car's then the McLaren rim for the faster one's.

Give mine a try as well, think they were quite well received when I posted them a few weeks ago. As for the load cell the elastomers take time to soften so set the BRF high if you can, I run mine at 85%. They are stiff so more pressure required will give more pedal travel and make it easier to modulate the pedal for trail braking.

SEN AUTO
FFB 100
PEAK
NDP OFF
NFR 4
NIN OFF
INT OFF
FEI 100
FOR 110
SPR OFF
DPR OFF

In game 5 & 1.

Will these settings differ with the rim used? Was looking to use the GT rim for the slower car's then the McLaren rim for the faster one's.

 

[Abarth_71]

TBH I use the McLaren wheel for everything but I'd still use those settings with the GT one.

 

[Abarth_71]

Question for you guys. I've just ordered the GT Omega Prime Lite rig. I'd like to route the cables as out of site as possible but have a feeling the pedal cable might be a bit too short for this so am thinking I should buy a longer RJ12 cable in readiness. Has anyone done this on a similar sized rig, and was the standard cable long enough?

Cheers.

 

[Sojiira]

Picked up one of these a little while ago. I havent had too much time with it but loving it so far. Spent years with a logitech g27/29 so having something so smooth and silent is such a nice feeling.

I havent dived into the settings yet but one issue I've had when playing GT7 is the slow hairpin on Suzuka, using one of the racecars on the GT Sophy challenge, feels very off and slow to turn. Only on that hairpin though and one car in particular.

Anyone run into this or something similar?

 

[Pixelatic]

Give mine a try as well, think they were quite well received when I posted them a few weeks ago. As for the load cell the elastomers take time to soften so set the BRF high if you can, I run mine at 85%. They are stiff so more pressure required will give more pedal travel and make it easier to modulate the pedal for trail braking.

SEN AUTO
FFB 100
PEAK
NDP OFF
NFR 4
NIN OFF
INT OFF
FEI 100
FOR 110
SPR OFF
DPR OFF

In game 5 & 1.

Hi, I've been following this thread for a while now and I think you're the best person to ask my question.

I recently bought a GT DD Pro with the CSL Elite V3 pedals and the McLaren GT3 wheel after using a Thrustmaster T300RS for about a year. I dialed in your settings from a few posts ago (will try the settings above later today) and, while the wheel feels great, I'm having quite a lot of difficulties adapting to the Fanatec.

I feel like I need to turn my wheel much much more to actually get the car to turn. I already dialed in the sensitivity but it gets to the point that I need to adjust it for every car I drive. This is my main issue with the wheel and it's limiting my enjoyment of it at the moment. I'm actually debating with myself if I should buy a regular round Fanatec wheel and that the McLaren wheel wasn't the best choice.

Do you have any tips for me to get this to work properly? I'm using the wheel with GT7 on my PlayStation 5. Thank you so so much!

P.s.: maybe good to know but I haven't updated the firmware of the base, pedals and wheel since I got it (beginning of March 2023). Mainly because I don't have a PC, but a Mac