Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Pro

[RS60NR]

With the new changes was curious to find out a bit more about LINEAR vs PEAK on the DD Pro 8. Prior to the update I preffered LINEAR, now I think the differences are not so great so really a matter of personal taste.

To test this I copied my current LINEAR setup, and changed over to PEAK with some adjustments to FF & FOR that made overall strength about the same. I put these on tuning slots 4 & 5 on my wheel, so while driving in VR I could just press the tuning button, use the dpad up/down to switch easily. Press up a couple of times and you know you’re in 5, then 1 down for 4

I’m happy running 4/1 in game, you could go to 5 for more w/o serious clipping

Here’s the setup w options for both FF & FOR:

• SEN Auto
• FF linear:100 or peak:96
• FFS Linear or Peak
• NDP 3
• NFR 6
• NIN 6
• INT 1
• FEI 100
• FOR linear:110 or peak:90
• SPR 100
• DPR 100

Differences are subtle - quick spikes come stronger on PEAK, low/mid pressures a bit more pronounced on LINEAR. Of course you could just go PEAK and 100s and be perfectly happy w that thanks to the latest changes

 

[ebizoe]

With the new changes was curious to find out a bit more about LINEAR vs PEAK on the DD Pro 8. Prior to the update I preffered LINEAR, now I think the differences are not so great so really a matter of personal taste.

To test this I copied my current LINEAR setup, and changed over to PEAK with some adjustments to FF & FOR that made overall strength about the same. I put these on tuning slots 4 & 5 on my wheel, so while driving in VR I could just press the tuning button, use the dpad up/down to switch easily. Press up a couple of times and you know you’re in 5, then 1 down for 4

I’m happy running 4/1 in game, you could go to 5 for more w/o serious clipping

Here’s the setup w options for both FF & FOR:

• SEN Auto
• FF linear:100 or peak:96
• FFS Linear or Peak
• NDP 3
• NFR 6
• NIN 6
• INT 1
• FEI 100
• FOR linear:110 or peak:90
• SPR 100
• DPR 100

Differences are subtle - quick spikes come stronger on PEAK, low/mid pressures a bit more pronounced on LINEAR. Of course you could just go PEAK and 100s and be perfectly happy w that thanks to the latest changes

tested all your setup RS both on LINEAR and PEAK on my usual time trial and same car.. a Porsche GT 4 road car with SH tyres.... on my side slightly better on LINEAR by 0,5 sec... on a lap... interestingly enough... when ..ehm ehm ..I activated countersteering on strong (!?!) immediately shaving off another 0,8 sec..I am feeling quite ashamed to confess...but on the other side would like to know if any other and better driver than me is noticing the same.... well...immediately after I felt guilty being doped and I disabled it 😉 and now is there looking at me and disturbing ...

 

[super_gt]

with some adjustments to FF & FOR that made overall strength about the same.

That makes no sense.
If you want a proper comparison, keep all settings the same and change only peak and linear.

 

[RS60NR]

That makes no sense.
If you want a proper comparison, keep all settings the same and change only peak and linear.

Well you can easily do that (and I have) and find out that - surprise - peak is stronger than linear in overall feel for the same settings.

Knowing what the settings do is key to optimizing the wheel to your preference so I was interested in how the forces were different across the spectrum for the same amount of max force. Why? because the previous update Linear had a noticeable (to me and some others) difference to some of the forces. The latest update has bumped those up a bit. Was giving up some peak output still worth it?

How to compare was the question. For me I want to run the wheel at an overall level that feels somewhat “real” whatever that means - a modern street car is not going to feel like driving a bus w no power steering. I‘ve driven a GT4 on a track so I have some reference irl

As Fanatec hasn’t said anything about how peak vs linear is different (other than max torque) there must be some tradeoff in torque distribution to get a higher peak force of 8 nm vs 6nm. Power for peak is coming from somewhere else in the torque curve - think audio amp - pump up the base and at max power other freqs will be limited. Lower the output enough and you can get the desired effect.

 

[PirovacBoy]

Hey there.
Just a question to those out there using a QR1 on their DDPro 8NM Unit.
With the latest update I noticed that my flimsy stock Wheel connection thing ( the plastic one ) is getting loose quite often and I’m finding myself re tightening it every few minutes.
In Game Setting 5/1 and 100% FF on the Base itself.
Very annoying.
So my question is should I upgrade to a QR1 to completely eliminate it?
Is it sturdy ?
To make it short is it worth the upgrade ?

 

[Nightwing24]

Hey there.
Just a question to those out there using a QR1 on their DDPro 8NM Unit.
With the latest update I noticed that my flimsy stock Wheel connection thing ( the plastic one ) is getting loose quite often and I’m finding myself re tightening it every few minutes.
In Game Setting 5/1 and 100% FF on the Base itself.
Very annoying.
So my question is should I upgrade to a QR1 to completely eliminate it?
Is it sturdy ?
To make it short is it worth the upgrade ?

I just upgraded recently to the F1 esports v2 wheel that includes the metal QR1, in short; yes it’s worth it.

Not by itself, but combined with the included tapered screw to bolt it to the shaft of the DDPro makes it feel like 1 solid piece eliminating the plastic flex that dampens the FFB.

 

[PirovacBoy]

I just upgraded recently to the F1 esports v2 wheel that includes the metal QR1, in short; yes it’s worth it.

Not by itself, but combined with the included tapered screw to bolt it to the shaft of the DDPro makes it feel like 1 solid piece eliminating the plastic flex that dampens the FFB.

Awesome thanks that’s exactly what I was hoping to hear… time to get me one of these then.
Off to the Fanatec Store … 😁

 

[xX Jojje Xx]

Awesome thanks that’s exactly what I was hoping to hear… time to get me one of these then.
Off to the Fanatec Store … 😁

You will not be disappointed, QR1 works great!

 

[super_gt]

With the latest update I noticed that my flimsy stock Wheel connection thing ( the plastic one ) is getting loose quite often and I’m finding myself re tightening it every few minutes.

I'm a little late to the party and I know you ordered the QR1 but still, that doesn't sound normal, QR1 Lite is usually easier to tighten than then loosen it.
Maybe you're not tightening it enough.

 

[PirovacBoy]

I'm a little late to the party and I know you ordered the QR1 but still, that doesn't sound normal, QR1 Lite is usually easier to tighten than then loosen it.
Maybe you're not tightening it enough.

No idea but the qr1 is ordered so the issue will be history in a few days.
I always tighten it quite firm, as I’ve learned it the hard way not to overtighten it by accidentally destroying 2 QR lites‘

 

[super_gt]

destroying 2 QR lites

What do you mean by destroyed?

 

[PirovacBoy]

What do you mean by destroyed?

The first one I was using developed a fine crack over the time.
I then ordered 2 new ones to replace it. I received them for free, so big thanks to Fanatec for their great customer service.
One of the new ones I accidentally overtightend it so it didn’t “grab“ anymore and I was not able to firmly tighten it anymore. It would just spin .
The second one currently in use did a great job for the past I think 8? Months.
But like I said since the update it gets loose on its own.
Despite not using excessive force on my Wheelbase, like I said 5/1 in Game and 100% on the base itself.
But I tend to play very long sessions in a row.
Sometimes 6 or more hours in one piece, so keep that in mind.
At the end of the day it’s a plastic clamp which of course by its nature seems to have worn out over time.

 

[Morilec]

With the new changes was curious to find out a bit more about LINEAR vs PEAK on the DD Pro 8. Prior to the update I preffered LINEAR, now I think the differences are not so great so really a matter of personal taste.

To test this I copied my current LINEAR setup, and changed over to PEAK with some adjustments to FF & FOR that made overall strength about the same. I put these on tuning slots 4 & 5 on my wheel, so while driving in VR I could just press the tuning button, use the dpad up/down to switch easily. Press up a couple of times and you know you’re in 5, then 1 down for 4

I’m happy running 4/1 in game, you could go to 5 for more w/o serious clipping

Here’s the setup w options for both FF & FOR:

• SEN Auto
• FF linear:100 or peak:96
• FFS Linear or Peak
• NDP 3
• NFR 6
• NIN 6
• INT 1
• FEI 100
• FOR linear:110 or peak:90
• SPR 100
• DPR 100

Differences are subtle - quick spikes come stronger on PEAK, low/mid pressures a bit more pronounced on LINEAR. Of course you could just go PEAK and 100s and be perfectly happy w that thanks to the latest changes

By NDP,NFR and NIN do you mean 3/6 or 30/60?
Because I've never seen a configuration on GT with such low percentages in that section

 

[Abarth_71]

No he means 3 & 6. My own settings are NDP 0, NFR 10 & NIN 0. It's what we've had to do to get the best feeling & FFB. People use both of our settings and like them.
You won't see them like that anywhere else because, and I'm not being rude, people just follow Fanatecs recommended settings or from someone on YT, who probably based theirs on Fanatecs anyway, and assume they must be the best.

 

[RS60NR]

No he means 3 & 6. My own settings are NDP 0, NFR 10 & NIN 0. It's what we've had to do to get the best feeling & FFB. People use both of our settings and like them.
You won't see them like that anywhere else because, and I'm not being rude, people just follow Fanatecs recommended settings or from someone on YT, who probably based theirs on Fanatecs anyway, and assume they must be the best.

NDP - damper - really strongly affects detail and just kills a lot of feel once you get above 5 or so. Some may set it high thinking its needed to control the high speed oscillation, but as long as there is a little pressure on the wheel L or R, its not really an issue. I like a tiny bit of NDP myself but that‘s just for a bit of “tone”, same for a bit of NFR - friction, and NIN - inertia - my personal taste.

The Fanatec “recommended” settings haven’t changed since DD Pro release, so were developed very early on - the game has had several major changes to FFB and physics since, so we’ve moved on.

BTW lately I’m finding I’m using my PEAK settings from above more since the update…

 

[FMW]

Hey there.
Just a question to those out there using a QR1 on their DDPro 8NM Unit.
With the latest update I noticed that my flimsy stock Wheel connection thing ( the plastic one ) is getting loose quite often and I’m finding myself re tightening it every few minutes.
In Game Setting 5/1 and 100% FF on the Base itself.
Very annoying.
So my question is should I upgrade to a QR1 to completely eliminate it?
Is it sturdy ?
To make it short is it worth the upgrade ?

100% YES. While I have never owned the plastic QR, since all my FANATEC wheel rims came with the aluminum QR1, I have used my buddies wheel that had the plastic version. The metal QR1 has a better connection all around. I have the BMW V2 wheel and the F1 version 2.5 wheel, both wit QR1's, and I use them on the GT DD Pro base. The connection is rock solid and it does not creak, shake or have anything weird going on. =)

 

[Funky Monkey]

Hey there.
Just a question to those out there using a QR1 on their DDPro 8NM Unit.
With the latest update I noticed that my flimsy stock Wheel connection thing ( the plastic one ) is getting loose quite often and I’m finding myself re tightening it every few minutes.
In Game Setting 5/1 and 100% FF on the Base itself.
Very annoying.
So my question is should I upgrade to a QR1 to completely eliminate it?
Is it sturdy ?
To make it short is it worth the upgrade ?

Even without the problem, the qr1 is a good upgrade.
Less flex, better transfer of detail 👍👍
Still using your settings. They still hold up. By far the best posted in here 👍✌️

 

[super_gt]

I don't remember having this before, or am I wrong?

 

[Abarth_71]

I don't remember having this before, or am I wrong?

View attachment 1246529

Me neither.

 

[ron24]

100% YES. While I have never owned the plastic QR, since all my FANATEC wheel rims came with the aluminum QR1, I have used my buddies wheel that had the plastic version. The metal QR1 has a better connection all around. I have the BMW V2 wheel and the F1 version 2.5 wheel, both wit QR1's, and I use them on the GT DD Pro base. The connection is rock solid and it does not creak, shake or have anything weird going on. =)

I wish I had known the problems with the plastic QR that it had play issues as my WRC rim would have come with the QR1 but I chose the plastic QR sadly because of the simple release . Prior owner of the Clubsport v1 and v2 and CSL base. I've called and put in a ticket week ago no response sadly.

 

[PJTierney]

The Fanatec “recommended” settings haven’t changed since DD Pro release, so were developed very early on - the game has had several major changes to FFB and physics since, so we’ve moved on.

I don't think Fanatec update their recommended settings post-launch for any game, or at least I don't recall them going back to edit their posts.

I may be wrong though.

I wish I had known the problems with the plastic QR that it had play issues as my WRC rim would have come with the QR1 but I chose the plastic QR sadly because of the simple release . Prior owner of the Clubsport v1 and v2 and CSL base. I've called and put in a ticket week ago no response sadly.

If you end up using a QR1, I recommend using the locking pin as well. With that secure you won't get the "knocking" sensation from the wheel slipping on the QR shaft.

Hopefully the QR2 system isn't far away.

 

[xX Jojje Xx]

I don't think Fanatec update their recommended settings post-launch for any game, or at least I don't recall them going back to edit their posts.

I may be wrong though.


If you end up using a QR1, I recommend using the locking pin as well. With that secure you won't get the "knocking" sensation from the wheel slipping on the QR shaft.

Hopefully the QR2 system isn't far away.

…and hopefully WRC 23 isn’t far away 😉

 

[Yard_Sale]

Copy and pasted from another thread in hopes of getting more eyeballs on my query.


@super_gt, is there a way to bipass the torque key function on a DD1? I bought mine second hand, and the seller forgot to include the torque Key. I’m using a Porsche GT3 rim, so I promise I’m not trying to pull a fast one. I need more cowbell!!!


My new rig and my old rig

 

[Funky Monkey]

Copy and pasted from another thread in hopes of getting more eyeballs on my query.


@super_gt, is there a way to bipass the torque key function on a DD1? I bought mine second hand, and the seller forgot to include the torque Key. I’m using a Porsche GT3 rim, so I promise I’m not trying to pull a fast one. I need more cowbell!!!


My new rig and my old rig

View attachment 1

Reddit has a thread on it

 

[m19hem]

Hey guys anybody having steering wheel issues with GT7? First around 5 laps in I will have down and up shift issues, Then when pitting can't press any buttons so stuck in pit lane. Also the mode display on the Fanatec power button will flash through all the colours , Blue/Red/Green/Yellow??? Never done this before. Happens using the McLaren wheel or the RS wheel? Turned both wheel and Ps off and works fine until halfway through a race then glitches again.

 

[Abarth_71]

Hey guys anybody having steering wheel issues with GT7? First around 5 laps in I will have down and up shift issues, Then when pitting can't press any buttons so stuck in pit lane. Also the mode display on the Fanatec power button will flash through all the colours , Blue/Red/Green/Yellow??? Never done this before. Happens using the McLaren wheel or the RS wheel? Turned both wheel and Ps off and works fine until halfway through a race then glitches again.

Could be wheel/shaft disconnection issues. You can loosen the c clamp, pull out the shaft a bit and reseat it. Put the clamp back in the correct position then tighten it to 15Nm.

These links were for the CSL DD but they were having similar disconnect issues.

CSL DD Wheelbase Loses Connection With PC

Hello everyone, I've been having some sudden stability issues with my CSL DD wheelbase and I'm posting here because all other methods of contacting support have failed (more on that later).

forum.fanatec.com

CSL DD (No Fanatec Device Found!)

Running a CLS DD, WC2 Rally Wheel, and Club Sport Pedals. Windows 10, Fanatec PC Driver 434. Latest firmware. All worked well for about 2 months.

forum.fanatec.com

 

[m19hem]

Could be wheel/shaft disconnection issues. You can loosen the c clamp, pull out the shaft a bit and reseat it. Put the clamp back in the correct position then tighten it to 15Nm.

These links were for the CSL DD but they were having similar disconnect issues.

CSL DD Wheelbase Loses Connection With PC

Hello everyone, I've been having some sudden stability issues with my CSL DD wheelbase and I'm posting here because all other methods of contacting support have failed (more on that later).

forum.fanatec.com

CSL DD (No Fanatec Device Found!)

Running a CLS DD, WC2 Rally Wheel, and Club Sport Pedals. Windows 10, Fanatec PC Driver 434. Latest firmware. All worked well for about 2 months.

forum.fanatec.com

That's a great response mate. Checked the bolts on the collar and definitely was not tight enough. So slackened them off pushed the shaft all the way in again as there was a mil gap. And tightened that bitch up. Working great so far 🤞🏽

 

[Andytpks]

Hi Abarth! you change anything with the last update?

 

[Abarth_71]

That's a great response mate. Checked the bolts on the collar and definitely was not tight enough. So slackened them off pushed the shaft all the way in again as there was a mil gap. And tightened that bitch up. Working great so far 🤞🏽

No worries mate, hope that does the trick permanently.

Hi Abarth! you change anything with the last update?

Only thing was increasing NFR to 10 but TBH I've hardly played it since the update.

 

[Davidcupra]

Hi I’m new here. I have a one month old gt Dd pro. I’m getting the common scratchy grainy feeling through the wheel on start up for maybe 7 laps on gt7. Sometimes it goes other times not. It’s a little distracting has many others had this? Iv heard it’s also on dd1 too.