Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Pro

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I recently upgraded to the QR2 and the included collar clamp thingy lol. I'm still experiencing some disconnecting and plan to take my time and go through the torqueing process again. I believe Fanatec recommends 8NM of force applied to both sides of the collar, did anyone go higher?
 
I recently upgraded to the QR2 and the included collar clamp thingy lol. I'm still experiencing some disconnecting and plan to take my time and go through the torqueing process again. I believe Fanatec recommends 8NM of force applied to both sides of the collar, did anyone go higher?
Nope, went 8 each side and mine's been fine. Probably a stupid question but did you line up the gaps in the clamp with those on the shaft housing?
 
Nope, went 8 each side and mine's been fine. Probably a stupid question but did you line up the gaps in the clamp with those on the shaft housing?
Nope, not a stupid question at all lol. I did but maybe I didn't torque each side down evenly enough. I'm definitely open to any/all suggestions.

I notice that I tend to pull on the wheel when driving, I don't know if I'm alone in that regard lol.
 
Nope, not a stupid question at all lol. I did but maybe I didn't torque each side down evenly enough. I'm definitely open to any/all suggestions.

I notice that I tend to pull on the wheel when driving, I don't know if I'm alone in that regard lol.
I'm very OCD and made sure the gap on each side was as even as possible. Probably not something that would make too much difference unless it was much bigger on one side than the other.
 
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I'm very OCD and made sure the gap on each side was as even as possible. Probably not something that would make too much difference unless it was much bigger on one side than the other.
Yeah, I'm going to redo it all later this evening and hopefully the problem goes away. Quick sidebar, I saw your recommended settings for the DD Pro some time ago, thank you for those.

Lastly, what pedals are you using? I purchased the V3's some time ago but want better "feel" out of the gas pedal. If you've modified yours, do you have any recommendations?
 
Yeah, I'm going to redo it all later this evening and hopefully the problem goes away. Quick sidebar, I saw your recommended settings for the DD Pro some time ago, thank you for those.

Lastly, what pedals are you using? I purchased the V3's some time ago but want better "feel" out of the gas pedal. If you've modified yours, do you have any recommendations?
I'm still using the CSL pedals + LC.

Been tweaking my wheel settings again, I'll get them linked in my sig this week hopefully.
 
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I'm still using the CSL pedals + LC.

Been tweaking my wheel settings again, I'll get them linked in my sig this week hopefully.
Maybe I'm blind but, I don't see a sig lol. When I click on your profile, it states that it's limited (understandably so lol). Is there something I'm overlooking?
 
My wheel settings are very different to a lot of others here. The others may give performance but did not feel natural to me.

I’ve been tweaking recently as I got the 8Nm supply and a ClubSport Formula 2.5X for Christmas. I also use V2 pedals.

One new thing for me is the brake force indicator. This rumbles the wheel when you apply force over a certain level. I’m still playing with that as I’m finding my braking is now more variable between what it used to be and woah, I broke way too soon….

My Setting - SET 1
  • [ ] SEN - Auto
  • [ ] FFB - 95
  • [ ] FFS - PEAK
  • [ ] NDP - 80
  • [ ] NFR - OFF
  • [ ] NIN - 10
  • [ ] INT - 6
  • [ ] FEI - 100
  • [ ] FOR - 90
  • [ ] SPR - 90
  • [ ] DPR - 100
  • [ ] BFI - 75
  • [ ] SHO - ON
  • [ ] MPS - AUTO
  • [ ] BRF - 85
In game: 5/10

The settings started out from those posted by TheKei25 but I’ve tweaked since then.

I’d be curious if others try these and what you think of them.

Edit. Another big change for me is that I got a solid af 8020 rig. With that I’ve been able to increase my brake force. I was running at 40 but have now crept up to 85 as my leg got stronger, but I may have to back this off as 6 months ago I sprained my angle in my left leg, and now it’s getting painful again. Guess I’m still not 100% healed.
TBH I just run whatever Z28 runs, his settings have always been perfectly dialed in for years now.


Jerome
 
As far as I know the F is only supposed to appear briefly, mine is the same.
Thanks Dude....

Over on the other post, where I originally posted about this little issue @SimRacer925 said "The F is only shown for 60 seconds after you started the base or attached the wheel."

So, does yours show for a split second, or 60 seconds, or something else?

Mine definitely used to show for longer, probably 60 seconds, but now blink and you miss it, it is that quick - much less than a second. Maybe it's something thats happened in a firmware update, and everyone now sees it for just a split second?
 
Yeah, I'm going to redo it all later this evening and hopefully the problem goes away. Quick sidebar, I saw your recommended settings for the DD Pro some time ago, thank you for those.

Lastly, what pedals are you using? I purchased the V3's some time ago but want better "feel" out of the gas pedal. If you've modified yours, do you have any recommendations?
For the V3’s if you plan to keep them I added the hydraulic damper to the gas along with the stiff spring and that greatly improved the feel and amount fo control for partial throttle
 
Thanks Dude....

Over on the other post, where I originally posted about this little issue @SimRacer925 said "The F is only shown for 60 seconds after you started the base or attached the wheel."

So, does yours show for a split second, or 60 seconds, or something else?

Mine definitely used to show for longer, probably 60 seconds, but now blink and you miss it, it is that quick - much less than a second. Maybe it's something thats happened in a firmware update, and everyone now sees it for just a split second?
Yeah, it flashes up for a split second. Quite possibly due to the firmware updates.
 
Placed my order for a DD Pro bundle last week - 11th Jan (Thursday) in the evening.
I’m in the UK and have the dreaded “handover to warehouse” status on my order.

I don’t expect much to update before probably Tuesday. Regardless, does anyone have any info on Fanatec lead times at the min? I’ve read some horror stories on their forum in terms of waiting for product but I’d assume these could be an impatient minority, or it’s been massively exaggerated etc?

Anyone know the lay of the land or has bought in the UK recently?

Cheers.
 
Placed my order for a DD Pro bundle last week - 11th Jan (Thursday) in the evening.
I’m in the UK and have the dreaded “handover to warehouse” status on my order.

I don’t expect much to update before probably Tuesday. Regardless, does anyone have any info on Fanatec lead times at the min? I’ve read some horror stories on their forum in terms of waiting for product but I’d assume these could be an impatient minority, or it’s been massively exaggerated etc?

Anyone know the lay of the land or has bought in the UK recently?

Cheers.
I ordered during their Black Friday sales, took a month to arrive. Usually you can expect to wait 3 or 4 working days minimum for the tracking number to appear on your order, then it'll be sat waiting for UPS to collect it. I wouldn't be expecting it this month tbh but you never know.
 
Placed my order for a DD Pro bundle last week - 11th Jan (Thursday) in the evening.
I’m in the UK and have the dreaded “handover to warehouse” status on my order.

I don’t expect much to update before probably Tuesday. Regardless, does anyone have any info on Fanatec lead times at the min? I’ve read some horror stories on their forum in terms of waiting for product but I’d assume these could be an impatient minority, or it’s been massively exaggerated etc?

Anyone know the lay of the land or has bought in the UK recently?

Cheers.
Only pre order stuff has been a problem with shipping. Everything in stock gets shipped np. I had 2 bf orders, the one in stock came quick, the one pre order took a month. Warning about the handover to warehouse. As of right now Fanatec is not telling you its shipped when they ship it. I got two orders a month ago and they still say handover to warehouse. Make sure you make a shipping account with whom ever they use to ship it to you. It takes a week normally. I just got my ordered last week. A week from handover to warehouse. Only reason I knew it was coming is my FedEx account sent me a text saying it was coming.
 
I recently upgraded to the QR2 and the included collar clamp thingy lol. I'm still experiencing some disconnecting and plan to take my time and go through the torqueing process again. I believe Fanatec recommends 8NM of force applied to both sides of the collar, did anyone go higher?
If QR2 is fitted even close to correct and you are still getting disconnection issues then it seems certain you have a wheel or wheelbase fault.
 
I recently upgraded to the QR2 and the included collar clamp thingy lol. I'm still experiencing some disconnecting and plan to take my time and go through the torqueing process again. I believe Fanatec recommends 8NM of force applied to both sides of the collar, did anyone go higher?
Have been experiencing “controller disconnects” a lot recently with my CSL DD Pro… week long story short and after reattaching all equipment on and off my rig several times troubleshooting each item individually to find the problem, the culprit;

I had the power cable tied together with the USB cable (power cable causing electromagnetic interference causing this disconnects)


…once the power cable was separated from my cable management and off on its own, I haven’t had a single disconnect reoccurring all week while having at least 5-6 disconnects per hour previously.
 
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Have been experiencing “controller disconnects” a lot recently with my CSL DD Pro… week long story short and after reattaching all equipment on and off my rig several times troubleshooting each item individually to find the problem, the culprit;

I had the power cable tied together with the USB cable (power cable causing electromagnetic interference causing this disconnects)


…once the power cable was separated from my cable management and off on its own, I haven’t had a single disconnect reoccurring all week while having at least 5-6 disconnects per hour previously.
Oh wow... I have mine tethered together as well... I really hope that's the culprit! I appreciate that you took the time to respond, thank you.
 
Have been experiencing “controller disconnects” a lot recently with my CSL DD Pro… week long story short and after reattaching all equipment on and off my rig several times troubleshooting each item individually to find the problem, the culprit;

I had the power cable tied together with the USB cable (power cable causing electromagnetic interference causing this disconnects)


…once the power cable was separated from my cable management and off on its own, I haven’t had a single disconnect reoccurring all week while having at least 5-6 disconnects per hour previously.
Oh wow... I have mine tethered together as well... I really hope that's the culprit! I appreciate that you took the time to respond, thank you.
Weird, mine are routed together round the rig and I've never had any issues.
 
Just a quick update....

Problem: Constant disconnects even though the wheel is properly torqued. I purchased the QR2.


I swapped to a new USB port and didn't have any problems for a very lengthy session. I'd say it was at least 45 minutes long. I thought the problem was solved but it crept back yesterday. I swapped to the front USB port and it seems like the problem went away again...

I'll keep troubleshooting the issue and reporting back. I'll separate the cables as someone mentioned above as well.
 
Just a quick update....

Problem: Constant disconnects even though the wheel is properly torqued. I purchased the QR2.


I swapped to a new USB port and didn't have any problems for a very lengthy session. I'd say it was at least 45 minutes long. I thought the problem was solved but it crept back yesterday. I swapped to the front USB port and it seems like the problem went away again...

I'll keep troubleshooting the issue and reporting back. I'll separate the cables as someone mentioned above as well.


Fwiw, since updating the driver(454?) a few days ago im getting a disconnect a session
 
I had a disaster happen yesterday whilst setting up my rig, I haven't played since November so had it stored out of the way.
Whilst setting up my NLR Wheel Stand 2 I managed to catch the cable for the pedals without much force, but it pulled the connector and unfortunately this has broken the solders from the board.
I've checked around and there seem to be quite a few of these breaks on Fanatec and Reddit. It's well out of warranty so I'm going to try a local electronics repair store to see if they can fix it, otherwise it could be a costly return to Fanatec Germany.
Just posting mostly as a warning to others as these connections are pretty fragile.
It's unusual that they only way they are secured it's through some small soldiers, no other supporting bracket at all.
 
I had a disaster happen yesterday whilst setting up my rig, I haven't played since November so had it stored out of the way.
Whilst setting up my NLR Wheel Stand 2 I managed to catch the cable for the pedals without much force, but it pulled the connector and unfortunately this has broken the solders from the board.
I've checked around and there seem to be quite a few of these breaks on Fanatec and Reddit. It's well out of warranty so I'm going to try a local electronics repair store to see if they can fix it, otherwise it could be a costly return to Fanatec Germany.
Just posting mostly as a warning to others as these connections are pretty fragile.
It's unusual that they only way they are secured it's through some small soldiers, no other supporting bracket at all.

Yeah, I love my DD Pro for sure, but some iffy things around it. When researching wheels to buy, recall ready some questioning durability, build quality/weaknesses.

I went for the full upgrade pack option at time, which included load cell. And funny enough encountered exact issue I read several others did when installing load cell... cant recall how it happens now, but iirc after installing it, somehow other pedals stopped working completely, during initial setup. I was so gutted, as excited to use it. Contacted support, took ages to reply, then sent some scripted response, which made me wonder if they had bothered reading my description. I've worked in tech field my whole life, so I like to think I understand importance of outlining issue, symptoms and everything I had tried... changing cables, tried various combination of things to mitigate the issue.

Coupled with fact many others had previously encountered exact same thing, it was clear the pedals had to be replaced.

Was such a battle, and coupled with excitement and impulsiveness, I found another set of the pedals n ebay 1 hour from me that day. So I just bought them instead. Old pedals and load cell sit there in a cupboard nearly 2 years later gathering dust...
 
B80
Yeah, I love my DD Pro for sure, but some iffy things around it. When researching wheels to buy, recall ready some questioning durability, build quality/weaknesses.

I went for the full upgrade pack option at time, which included load cell. And funny enough encountered exact issue I read several others did when installing load cell... cant recall how it happens now, but iirc after installing it, somehow other pedals stopped working completely, during initial setup. I was so gutted, as excited to use it. Contacted support, took ages to reply, then sent some scripted response, which made me wonder if they had bothered reading my description. I've worked in tech field my whole life, so I like to think I understand importance of outlining issue, symptoms and everything I had tried... changing cables, tried various combination of things to mitigate the issue.

Coupled with fact many others had previously encountered exact same thing, it was clear the pedals had to be replaced.

Was such a battle, and coupled with excitement and impulsiveness, I found another set of the pedals n ebay 1 hour from me that day. So I just bought them instead. Old pedals and load cell sit there in a cupboard nearly 2 years later gathering dust...

I might have done almost this exact same thing.

Including the rma’d pedals sitting in their box upstairs.

Speaking of which, had multiple random disconnects yesterday. Power cord is neat and tidy and ita been plugged into a soundboard quality furman line conditioner since purchase. As i was putting it away for the nite confused and dissatisfied it occurred to me that there had been a random crick or two while driving so i checked the collar of the base side qr2 discovering that one of the collar bolts had loosened about 1/2 a turn. Might try a full reseating before playing later today. Hoping thats the culprit as its been 15yrs since attempting to downgrade a windows driver (full mac cause former occupation).

🤞
 
I appreciate the input.

My gut is telling me there's some sort of software/authentication issue at hand for myself as well.

Is anyone running 454 with a f1 esports yoke, or a univ v2 hub? Im starting to wonder if 454 is causing problems.


After never having an issue, after 454 i’ve had a few random disconnects. First reseated qr2 on the base. Thought i was cool after an hour or two and then boom. Went in a tried to repair 454 and see an error msg in the fanalogs. Didn’t save it, cause im an idiot, but it referred to some sort of raytracing thing. Anyway, booted up the wheel and drove it like i was mad at it. Partly to make sure all of the connections were snug and secure, partly cause i am. Went at it for an hour and a half, maybe two, and the wheel performed well. Which was a relief. Sorta. Still pretty insecure and worried tbat the firmware flash to the base, which accompanied the driver install might be causing this. Also, how the heck would one go about flashing firmware on the base?

Ugh. Stuck unable to play until friday too. Just going to sit here twiddling my thumbs while the brain spirals.
 
Is anyone running 454 with a f1 esports yoke, or a univ v2 hub? Im starting to wonder if 454 is causing problems.


After never having an issue, after 454 i’ve had a few random disconnects. First reseated qr2 on the base. Thought i was cool after an hour or two and then boom. Went in a tried to repair 454 and see an error msg in the fanalogs. Didn’t save it, cause im an idiot, but it referred to some sort of raytracing thing. Anyway, booted up the wheel and drove it like i was mad at it. Partly to make sure all of the connections were snug and secure, partly cause i am. Went at it for an hour and a half, maybe two, and the wheel performed well. Which was a relief. Sorta. Still pretty insecure and worried tbat the firmware flash to the base, which accompanied the driver install might be causing this. Also, how the heck would one go about flashing firmware on the base?

Ugh. Stuck unable to play until friday too. Just going to sit here twiddling my thumbs while the brain spirals.
I haven't updated the firmware in quite a few months, I'd have to verify which firmware I'm on.

I'm currently utilizing the front USB port and haven't had issues for a few days now. 🤞🏽
 
There seems to be no constant factor with these issues. Mine has been on firmware 454 since it released, I've always used the front USB port on the PS5 and as I said before the cables are routed together.

Thats good to hear. Its as if its some wacky combo of wheels, bases and drivers which send things sideways for some. Ugh. Given the state of things over there i’m just worried that if it doesn’t go away that the rma process could take months. Im really hoping that between the system update for ps5 and 1.42, that it just goes away.

Eta: im an idiot. All comments ive made recently have been about driver 455. Ugh. Skys been falling around here for a while and im starting to do dumb stuff ><
 
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Does anyone use their GT DD Pro on a PS4/PS5 in compatibility mode (purple LED) as opposed to native mode (blue LED)?

I have a GT DD Pro for playing GT7 on a PS5. The left analogue stick on both my ClubSport RS and F1 Esports V2 wheels control the camera to look around. With the base in native mode (blue) the camera can look left and right. When the base is in compatibility mode (purple), the camera can also look behind (stick down).

Is there any disadvantage to using my setup on compatibility mode?

Unless I'm missing something, the force feedback feels more or less the same to me. It just seems so unintuitive not to use the native setting with a GT-dedicated wheel base in a GT game.
 
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