Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Pro

[NevilleNobody]

You say you set it in the Fanatec app, do you mean the settings on the wheel or the PC app? Try setting it on the wheel if you haven't done that.

Yeah just like on that Reddit thread. I open the Fanatec App, I hold the wheel dead centred and calibrate. The calibration is correct, if I hold the wheel centred when racing it is centered but if I relax at all, like how one would still be touching the wheel but naturally let it re-centre, it sits 5 degrees to the right. With the Karts it's brutal as i am always correcting and it messes with my line through the long final turn.

 

[bliprunner]

Yeah just like on that Reddit thread. I open the Fanatec App, I hold the wheel dead centred and calibrate. The calibration is correct, if I hold the wheel centred when racing it is centered but if I relax at all, like how one would still be touching the wheel but naturally let it re-centre, it sits 5 degrees to the right. With the Karts it's brutal as i am always correcting and it messes with my line through the long final turn.

The original poster in that Reddit thread leaves a couple of interesting comments...

"UPDATE!!
I have take apart the QR2 and it turned out it was the black bracket, one of the screws had started to come loose. Reset it and it should work. Remember to recentre after"

and

"I just re-installed the QR2 into the DD1 and it turned out it was the black bracket that was starting to come loose which was making it unaligned. It's back to normal now."

If you do remove the collar and check the bracket you'll need a good strong hex key and ideally a torque meter. It's not too difficult though, I had to do it when installing my QR2. Fanatec have good instructions.

Edit: You might want to do the Jimny test first though and see if that drives straight, before getting the allen keys out.

 

[super_gt]

The attachment of the QR to the shaft is different for the Podium DD and the CSL/GT DD, for this reason his advices is useless to you.

 

[RS60NR]

@NevilleNobody
When you are in the control panel and calibrate the wheel, then let go, does it stay centered?

If not then the calibration didn’t stick - hands off it should stay centered when powered on. If the centering is not being saved, sounds like some issue w the driver or the electronics in the base, not the qr2 connection if all else works normally on the wheel

 

[NevilleNobody]

@NevilleNobody
When you are in the control panel and calibrate the wheel, then let go, does it stay centered?

If not then the calibration didn’t stick - hands off it should stay centered when powered on. If the centering is not being saved, sounds like some issue w the driver or the electronics in the base, not the qr2 connection if all else works normally on the wheel

No, when I let it go it droops to the right. I don't have QR2 installed yet, I got the gear just before xmas and it came with QR2 but not installed so I believe I have QR1.

 

[RS60NR]

No, when I let it go it droops to the right. I don't have QR2 installed yet, I got the gear just before xmas and it came with QR2 but not installed so I believe I have QR1.

When the wheel powers on it should do a parital spin then return to the last calibration point +/- a degree or 2. Did you try the 2 button center cal procedure? Not sure what wheel you have so might be different

 

[Abarth_71]

This is mine powered on with no input from the PS5. It does not stay centred because of the magnets, which you can also feel when rotating. When FFB is active it'll stay pretty much centred depending on the camber of the track.

 

[NevilleNobody]

The steering wheel must have QR, it cannot do without it.
When you go to the page of the wheel base you want the picture should show with what QR it is.
Give me a link to the page of the base you want.

When the wheel powers on it should do a parital spin then return to the last calibration point +/- a degree or 2. Did you try the 2 button center cal procedure? Not sure what wheel you have so might be different

View attachment 1423294

THanks for this, I decided against the supplied wheel and went with the P1 V2 which is a fantastic wheel but I will need to muck about to figure out which buttons correspond to each wheel as I don't have the right button labels yet. I will give this a try though.

This is mine powered on with no input from the PS5. It does not stay centred because of the magnets, which you can also feel when rotating. When FFB is active it'll stay pretty much centred depending on the camber of the track.

Right, see this is important. I understand it drooping with ffb off but in a race with FFB engaged it stays at 5pc to the right.

 

[RS60NR]

The csl btw wheel is the same https://fanatec.com/us-en/steering-wheels/csl-steering-wheel-bmw so that manual should help

 

[NevilleNobody]

The csl btw wheel is the same https://fanatec.com/us-en/steering-wheels/csl-steering-wheel-bmw so that manual should help

View attachment 1423304

Legend! It's a really nice wheel, never used the regular DD Pro but the small gear paddles spooked me as did the small size, the CSL wheel is lovely and the quality seems outstanding for the price.

 

[NevilleNobody]

I really do have no luck, the CAL menu is gone, I just get a_s. What the hell. Something must have messed up when I took the wheel off yesterday as I tried to undo the clamp, clamp never budged and wheel worked fine when I put it back on but CAL is dead set gone.

 

[RS60NR]

a_s means auto setup where the game will set the tuning values if it can. use the dpad to move up down to the individual setups. there is simple and advance tuning mode Download that BMW manual to see more as it works the same as the P1.

CAL only appears when the firmware is updated and the wheel settings are reset. But you can enter the setup menu, press the two buttons shown in blue any time to recenter the wheel

 

[NevilleNobody]

Thanks I'll do that, just find it weird I used to see CAL all the time when I accidentally hit the button

 

[RS60NR]

Thanks I'll do that, just find it weird I used to see CAL all the time when I accidentally hit the button

CAL will persist until you actually do the centering (and shifter setup if you have an SQ shifter) so if you were seeing CAL all the time then the centering did not take affect before

 

[NevilleNobody]

Oh wow, OK, jeez that gives me hope!

Edit.
This is getting super annoying, CAL jas totally vanished and pressing those two buttons does nothing. Losing my mind with this, where has CAL gone???

I hooked ut up to the pc and tried manually calibrating, heard a click when I pressed those two buttons at once, wheel still off centre. Hooked it up to ps5 and error 888...... calibration sensor failure. Took it off the shift, reset the wheel and error has gone away but now I've got to remap all the buttons and still the wheel slides to the right.

EDIT 2: it's working!!!! I've no idea what exactly did the trick, literally no idea, but yeah she dips right when not in use but when on track if I relax on the straights she's dead centre! Hazaaaah!

EDIT 3: Upon using the karts it seems it's not ABSOLUTE dead centre, i'd say half a degree off but that is fine, can live with that. On the back straight at Tsukuba when i relaxed my hands i drifted to the right a touch so it's not bang on but I am edgy about trying again as the entire process has been very unpredictable.

 

[RS60NR]

progress! good to hear. In case it wasn’t clear its
1 - tuning menu button on the the wheel
2- center wheel
3- press and hold both the indicated buttons AT THE SAME time and then release at the same time
4 - press tuning button to exit

Button mapping in GT7 is stored in game, wheel settings don’t affect them

 

[NevilleNobody]

Yep, I did all that but it went a bit crazy until I reset the wheel then tried again. The karts felt much better today, finished second, yet to win with my transition to a wheel but getting there!

 

[NevilleNobody]

Just circling back on losing the button mapping, turns out this was because the wheel was in compatibility mode, not PS5 mode. One is blue and one is ...... very bloody close to blue! So i did not notice, once switched back the button map was in place.

 

[RS60NR]

Just circling back on losing the button mapping, turns out this was because the wheel was in compatibility mode, not PS5 mode. One is blue and one is ...... very bloody close to blue! So i did not notice, once switched back the button map was in place.

Button setup is based on the what wheelbase GT thinks is connected (not the actual wheel) so in compatability mode, GT7 thinks you have a CSL Elite connected so uses that tile for button config

 

[UsuiR197]

I cancelled my T598 for the GT DD Pro (+ 8nm boost kit).

I received it yesterday, and after 1h30 of use, it disconnected followed by a smell of burnt plastic and welding.

 

[DK]

I think my wheel is on the way out, and I haven't even had it for a year.

It started acting up when I was doing some practice laps while waiting for the latest Manufacturers Cup round. Just as I passed the unused chicane on the pit straight (halfway between Juncao and the pit entrance), it vibrated at max strength. 5 seconds later, it rebooted. I tried plugging it out and back in again, and it rebooted again halfway through my race, also with that telltale vibration at the unused chicane! I've since updated its firmware, but it died and rebooted again, regardless of whether I'm using it with my PC or PS4. Every time it automatically reboots, it vibrates at max strength a few seconds beforehand. I'll leave it alone today, but I think I'll need to send it back for repairs.

 

[super_gt]

I would check all the power connections.

 

[Daz555]

I think my wheel is on the way out, and I haven't even had it for a year.

It started acting up when I was doing some practice laps while waiting for the latest Manufacturers Cup round. Just as I passed the unused chicane on the pit straight (halfway between Juncao and the pit entrance), it vibrated at max strength. 5 seconds later, it rebooted. I tried plugging it out and back in again, and it rebooted again halfway through my race, also with that telltale vibration at the unused chicane! I've since updated its firmware, but it died and rebooted again, regardless of whether I'm using it with my PC or PS4. Every time it automatically reboots, it vibrates at max strength a few seconds beforehand. I'll leave it alone today, but I think I'll need to send it back for repairs.

I guess a small mercy is that it has failed whilst still under warranty.

 

[DK]

I would check all the power connections.

Thanks for the tip, I've unplugged everything (even the power brick) and plugged it back in again, and it's survived a 90 minute-long stress test wrangling a Merc 190E around the 'Ring in AMS2 and trying to get a Clio to turn in iRenting.

 

[UsuiR197]

Contacted by Fanatec today, they asked me to record a video. The base disconnected after 3 minutes and 50 seconds. And the base is hot at 92.9°C...

Edit : it may be hotter, the measuring range in object mode stops at 93°C

 

[timekiller001]

Contacted by Fanatec today, they asked me to record a video. The base disconnected after 3 minutes and 50 seconds. And the base is hot at 92.9°C...
View attachment 1429754

That is definitely not normal...

 

[i386]

is it using the 4090/5090 power connector?

 

[crazy gt7]

Give mine a go, open the link in my signature. I've been tweaking them a bit lately but these are the latest.

Thanks a bunch for these. Your GT7 settings with my DD Pro 8nm are very good. There are no perfect settings, but these are good enough that I find it much easier to feel what is going on. I've been able to recover when the rear wheels break loose almost every time now, where before I was having to be way more conservative to avoid those situations. Now the game is a lot more fun, as throwing the back end out a bit is exhilarating, despite slowing my lap times down.