- 10,081
- WFG9
400 yards is a quarter mile.
Fastest 400M & 1000M Times.
- Thread starter GGhost
- 275 comments
- 37,900 views
- 73
I have gotten 8.647 with the Poly 1.
:burnout:
:burnout:
- 57
l cant remember the times of my head, anyway......
skylin GT-R V-SPEC ll gets early 9seconds.....
tommykaria 8-9seconds.....
mazda MX-5 l think was 10secons......
skylin GT-R V-SPEC ll gets early 9seconds.....
tommykaria 8-9seconds.....
mazda MX-5 l think was 10secons......
- 292
my Raybrid NSX does it in the High 9's i think
- 73
My RUF RGT does 8.6**
- 73
Ok, these are from memory because the game is at my friends house....Get 1 fully modded RUF RGT.
Get super soft tires (45,000)
oil chance, wash, blah blah
Raise ride height fully
TCS to 4 or 5
full downforce ( I think...)
springs, full
bound, rebound, full
then you have to play with gears....you want to use Manual Transmission and gear 1st real short, then have to play with others. Start in 2nd gear.....upshift to 3rd 100 rpm before redlining it. Then shift when shift indicator blinks or just slightly afterwords.
Get super soft tires (45,000)
oil chance, wash, blah blah
Raise ride height fully
TCS to 4 or 5
full downforce ( I think...)
springs, full
bound, rebound, full
then you have to play with gears....you want to use Manual Transmission and gear 1st real short, then have to play with others. Start in 2nd gear.....upshift to 3rd 100 rpm before redlining it. Then shift when shift indicator blinks or just slightly afterwords.
- 25,089
- Somewhere.
12.9 with the Spoon Civic Type-R... fastest FWD car in the game on the 0-400 meter thing, all the others are in the 13-14 secs. range. I don't play much with cars on the 1/4 mile track, so that's my current fastest time.
Other than that, 9.20@roughly 155mph with the Skyline GT-R V-Spec II R34(the purple one).
Other than that, 9.20@roughly 155mph with the Skyline GT-R V-Spec II R34(the purple one).
- 292
i think for the RGT you make the downforce all the way down because that increases speed and when its all the way up your turning is better so try it.
- 153
for the best 1/4mi times (400m) you need to think about what happens to the car when you launch.
I am gonna use the RGT for example (even though I have never raced one, I know the layout)
In any car, when you stomp the gas the weight of the car transfers backwards to the rear tires. In the RGT (which is rear engine, meaning behind the rear axle, and four wheel drive) you have a signifigant advantage with the weight transfer considering a good hunk of the weight is already back on the drive wheels. Here's how you should base you settings:
Get the VCD and put as much power to the back wheels as possible (ie 10%).
Then, to maximize weight transer, but still keep the front wheels planted enough to help with their 10%, raise the front end up to about half way and drop the back. (this will help put more weight on the drive tires, and it does not have an effect on your drag coef. (wind resistance) [if you see sparks raise the back and front equally a little at a time till they go away])
as far as the absorbers go just remeber that you want the rear end to "sit"
Front bound should go to about 5 or 6, mabey more (this helps keep the weight on the back during shifts)
rear bound to mabey 3 or so, mabey less (just not strong)
Front rebound should be set high to help push the front tires down a little for the 10% power they put down.
Rear rebound should be low, so as not to push the car's weight back forwar under shifting.
The rear springs need to be really loose and the front should be really stiff
camber and toe-in/out should all be zero for better tire adhesion(sp)
the downforce should be set all to lowest (downforce means drag)
then start making your runs. for tuning purposes it is best to start always from full throttle and use an auto tranny. take a couple runs to get an idea for what your base 400m time is. (this is not going to be as fast as when you use manual but it gives us a consitent shifting pattern to help us see if changes make a difference)
first thing to do is play with you tranny. you will want to be getting to the redline of either 5th or 6th gear as you cross the finish line to maximize your engine use. Remember that everytime you shift you loose a large amount of torque (hp if you want to call it that) until your engine gets revved back to peak power. watch your speedo as you do your runs, keep track of what RPM's cause the greatest increase in speed. if the acceleration dies a little before redline find out where and set that as where you will be up shifting.
Once your tranny is good enough in auto, switch to manual and see if it still runs correctly. Make any adjustments you need to get it right, usually using the final drive setting at this point is easiest.
Now comes the perfection part: when you launch you car from full throttle the engine should "bog" down to a certain RPM then kick in. (assuming TCS is set to about 5 is a good way to do this). about 500 to 1000 rpm below that point is where you want your revs right as the race starts. A split second before it is time to go, mash the gas, the car should pick up and go much better then ever before. once that is set start playing with the tcs and bring it as low as possible but with no wheel spin.
I know this was long but I hope you all learn something from this.
This is not an exact guide but more of a helper to get you started in the right direction. Just always remember, weight transfers to the back, your goal is to get as much of that weight onto the drive wheels as possible. MR and RUF's/Porsche's RR cars are the best. And give yourself a challenge and don't use 4wd, no tuning is really needed, just slam, stiffen and hit the gas.
If anyone has anymore advice or mabey corrections to my setting suggestions please post them.
(never stop fine tuning, and always save your settings)
I am gonna use the RGT for example (even though I have never raced one, I know the layout)
In any car, when you stomp the gas the weight of the car transfers backwards to the rear tires. In the RGT (which is rear engine, meaning behind the rear axle, and four wheel drive) you have a signifigant advantage with the weight transfer considering a good hunk of the weight is already back on the drive wheels. Here's how you should base you settings:
Get the VCD and put as much power to the back wheels as possible (ie 10%).
Then, to maximize weight transer, but still keep the front wheels planted enough to help with their 10%, raise the front end up to about half way and drop the back. (this will help put more weight on the drive tires, and it does not have an effect on your drag coef. (wind resistance) [if you see sparks raise the back and front equally a little at a time till they go away])
as far as the absorbers go just remeber that you want the rear end to "sit"
Front bound should go to about 5 or 6, mabey more (this helps keep the weight on the back during shifts)
rear bound to mabey 3 or so, mabey less (just not strong)
Front rebound should be set high to help push the front tires down a little for the 10% power they put down.
Rear rebound should be low, so as not to push the car's weight back forwar under shifting.
The rear springs need to be really loose and the front should be really stiff
camber and toe-in/out should all be zero for better tire adhesion(sp)
the downforce should be set all to lowest (downforce means drag)
then start making your runs. for tuning purposes it is best to start always from full throttle and use an auto tranny. take a couple runs to get an idea for what your base 400m time is. (this is not going to be as fast as when you use manual but it gives us a consitent shifting pattern to help us see if changes make a difference)
first thing to do is play with you tranny. you will want to be getting to the redline of either 5th or 6th gear as you cross the finish line to maximize your engine use. Remember that everytime you shift you loose a large amount of torque (hp if you want to call it that) until your engine gets revved back to peak power. watch your speedo as you do your runs, keep track of what RPM's cause the greatest increase in speed. if the acceleration dies a little before redline find out where and set that as where you will be up shifting.
Once your tranny is good enough in auto, switch to manual and see if it still runs correctly. Make any adjustments you need to get it right, usually using the final drive setting at this point is easiest.
Now comes the perfection part: when you launch you car from full throttle the engine should "bog" down to a certain RPM then kick in. (assuming TCS is set to about 5 is a good way to do this). about 500 to 1000 rpm below that point is where you want your revs right as the race starts. A split second before it is time to go, mash the gas, the car should pick up and go much better then ever before. once that is set start playing with the tcs and bring it as low as possible but with no wheel spin.
I know this was long but I hope you all learn something from this.
This is not an exact guide but more of a helper to get you started in the right direction. Just always remember, weight transfers to the back, your goal is to get as much of that weight onto the drive wheels as possible. MR and RUF's/Porsche's RR cars are the best. And give yourself a challenge and don't use 4wd, no tuning is really needed, just slam, stiffen and hit the gas.
If anyone has anymore advice or mabey corrections to my setting suggestions please post them.
(never stop fine tuning, and always save your settings)
- 35
My fast 1/4 mile cars
8 sec:
GT-One Road Car
R390 Road Car
9 sec:
Calsonic Skyline
Corvette C5R
Camaro Race Car
RX-7 LM Race Car
CLK Touring Car
FTO LM Race Car
Tommy Kaira ZZII
RX-7 Type RZ
Lancer Evo IV
Gillet Vertigo Race Car
RUF "Boxster"
NISMO Skyline GT-R S-Tune & R-Tune
S2000 LM Race Car
Opel Calibra Touring
RUF "911 GT-2"
RUF CTR2
Mazda 787B
Tickford Falcon Race Car
All were raced with Auto, Super Soft Tires, and the full extent of power add ons. ex:Race Cars were added with either the Final Turbo, or Tune up part.
8 sec:
GT-One Road Car
R390 Road Car
9 sec:
Calsonic Skyline
Corvette C5R
Camaro Race Car
RX-7 LM Race Car
CLK Touring Car
FTO LM Race Car
Tommy Kaira ZZII
RX-7 Type RZ
Lancer Evo IV
Gillet Vertigo Race Car
RUF "Boxster"
NISMO Skyline GT-R S-Tune & R-Tune
S2000 LM Race Car
Opel Calibra Touring
RUF "911 GT-2"
RUF CTR2
Mazda 787B
Tickford Falcon Race Car
All were raced with Auto, Super Soft Tires, and the full extent of power add ons. ex:Race Cars were added with either the Final Turbo, or Tune up part.
- 153
i did some testing today after my post, follow all of the guidlines escept the rear end should be mabey half full height and the front should be all the way up. There didn't seem to be enough suspension travel for the weight to transfer completely. Otherwise all else is a pretty good starting point
- 292
why would you use auto for 400m it just takes the fun out of running it.
- 747
yup, I agree! it's awesome to try and get the best launch and then dragrace the ghost car as you slam through the gears. you can watch the ghost and shift accordingly to beat it, just by using different shift points than the last time you ran it. MAN I WISH THEY'D PUT THE DRAG TRACKS IN, or at least let you run the 400m and such in 2p!!!!!!!!!!!
- 153
Yeah, I know, I was thinking of the CTR2. After I wrote that I went and got out my RGT and set it up for drag and noticed "Huh. 2 wheel drive... opps." So just ignore the VCD thing.
I am not a big fan of drag racing with 4wd. I don't know why, I guess I just lke the challenge of getting everything just right to pull the fastest time by .003 faster. I may start playing with 4wd drag setups in a few minutes. I am curious to see how fast I can get them and how much different their tuning is. The only 4wd cars I dragged were the Escudo in gt2 (definettly too powerful in gt3) and the same 1000+hp Skyline GTR everyone buys early in the game
Yeah, I know, my opinion took a 180 in that last paragraph but, whatever
I am not a big fan of drag racing with 4wd. I don't know why, I guess I just lke the challenge of getting everything just right to pull the fastest time by .003 faster. I may start playing with 4wd drag setups in a few minutes. I am curious to see how fast I can get them and how much different their tuning is. The only 4wd cars I dragged were the Escudo in gt2 (definettly too powerful in gt3) and the same 1000+hp Skyline GTR everyone buys early in the game
Yeah, I know, my opinion took a 180 in that last paragraph but, whatever
- 747
the R style shifting makes it even more fun! (as long as you don't have a 1000hp car or somthin, cause it actually throws it in reverse with them, lol)
A 436HP Civic Type (EK,J): 13.596
A 409HP Acura NSX: 11.747
A 409HP Acura NSX: 11.747
- 747
why the frick couldn't they just add another few hundred feet and at least give us a 1p quarter mile, drag-strip wannabee place?!?!?!?! Dorks, LOL 
- 1,816
- Nurburgring, Germany
HEY EVERYONE, LISTEN, I GOT THIS RX-7 TYPR RS WON FROM THE AMERICAN CHAMPIONSHIPS IN AMATEUR AND I HAD TUNED IT RIGHT UP TO 675BHP, GAVE IT NEW RACING TYRES AND VEILSIDE LOOKING ALLOYS, I TESTING IT ON TOKYO R246 AND DRAG RACED A CLK AMG D2 AND WAS WHOPPING IT, SO I WAS AMAZED TO SEE SUCH ACCELRATION AND TOP SPEED, SO TOOK TO THE TEST TRACK 0-400M AND CLOCKED I THINK ABOUT 8.5SEC with no traction control ON.!!!!!
ANY REPLYS WELCOME, NIGHTMARE TO HANDLE ON CORNERS THOUGH (RX-7).
ANY REPLYS WELCOME, NIGHTMARE TO HANDLE ON CORNERS THOUGH (RX-7).
- 6
Why do I have this feeling that he is making that up?
- 4,274
- New Zealand
- SkylineObsession
- Mangosaurus
MY TOP 4 400M TIMES
1. Skyline GT-R V-Spec II (R32) - 09.809 - 858 hp
2. Skyline GT-R V-Spec II (R34) - 09.866 - 1072 hp
3. RUF RGT - 10.012 - 1099 hp
4. Viper GTS - 10.260 - 1110 hp
I will never keep a record set by a race car, as i consider the Machine test is for road cars only.
For more info on my GT3 status, click the link below and take a mosey.
http://www.angelfire.com/dc/mustang-man/gtsc.htm
1. Skyline GT-R V-Spec II (R32) - 09.809 - 858 hp
2. Skyline GT-R V-Spec II (R34) - 09.866 - 1072 hp
3. RUF RGT - 10.012 - 1099 hp
4. Viper GTS - 10.260 - 1110 hp
I will never keep a record set by a race car, as i consider the Machine test is for road cars only.
For more info on my GT3 status, click the link below and take a mosey.
http://www.angelfire.com/dc/mustang-man/gtsc.htm
