Gran Turismo 7 Physics

Do you want more detailed and realistic physics on the next GT


  • Total voters
    203
  • Poll closed .
This is inconsistent. I'd agree on some cars, but, when I first tried the update out, I was having issues with the better turn in capability of the cars.
What do you mean by better? More stable? That might also mean just more understeer.

And what cars are you talking about into which corner?
 
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A question for the Technical Lovers.
Can someone explain or provide a link where it’s confirmed that a System like “ABS WEAK“ in GT7 actually exists in real Life Cars.
I tried to find some valuable Info and searched a bit through the Net, but I couldn’t find any explicit Information on that.
From my understanding and experience I’d say that ABS weak in GT7 works as a regular and Basic ABS System.
At least for the Cars I’ve driven in real life which were equipped with an ABS System.
On the other Side we have “ABS DEFAULT“ in GT7 which from my understanding and experience with GT7 works as an combined ABS+ESP Hybrid ABS System.
So, ABS weak=Regular ABS System.
And ABS default = ABS/ESP Hybrid System.

I‘m not sure though if I’m messing things up.
But this ABS ESP Hybrid System definitely exists.
I‘m not going to share the link as it’s in German but if you’re interested you can google it for your own.
I hope that @Scaff might probably clarify things up, I mean if he can’t than it’s hopeless :lol:
I don’t know of any road cars that have anything more than the standard ABS system, certainly nothing adjustable AFAIK

IRL GT3 racing cars have adjustable ABS systems though, that can be adjusted on the fly by the driver, just like you can change how you want your brake balance or TCS level. On GT7, ABS weak just represents a lower ABS level and ABS default represents a stronger ABS level. Real GT3 cars can have something like 10 levels of ABS adjustment from 0(completely off) to 10 (very sensitive ABS).

Not sure if that’s what you were asking about but hope that helps
 
I don’t know of any road cars that have anything more than the standard ABS system, certainly nothing adjustable AFAIK

IRL GT3 racing cars have adjustable ABS systems though, that can be adjusted on the fly by the driver, just like you can change how you want your brake balance or TCS level. On GT7, ABS weak just represents a lower ABS level and ABS default represents a stronger ABS level. Real GT3 cars can have something like 10 levels of ABS adjustment from 0(completely off) to 10 (very sensitive ABS).

Not sure if that’s what you were asking about but hope that helps
Abs weak is not a lower ABS system but actually the realistic ABS system while ABS default acts more like the skid recovery we had in GT5/6 or like a extremely advance abs systems in which all the tires are controlled… I use it for super advanced ABS systems… like what you would get in new Ferraris Porsche lambo etc.. once you turn off the electronic aids the. The ABS system goes to weak… these are my league rules…here is the actual description the game gives you.

Abs default- “The braking force of all four wheels is controlled and part of the tire grip is allocated to turning force…

ABS weak- deactivates this restriction which make it suitable for more skilled drivers

People say there is no different but I can feel the difference big time… ABS default will let you get away with bad braking technique vs abs weak will punish you for it and the cars actually feel more alive.
 
I don’t know of any road cars that have anything more than the standard ABS system, certainly nothing adjustable AFAIK

IRL GT3 racing cars have adjustable ABS systems though, that can be adjusted on the fly by the driver, just like you can change how you want your brake balance or TCS level. On GT7, ABS weak just represents a lower ABS level and ABS default represents a stronger ABS level. Real GT3 cars can have something like 10 levels of ABS adjustment from 0(completely off) to 10 (very sensitive ABS).

Not sure if that’s what you were asking about but hope that helps
Thanks for your respond. But that’s not exactly what I was asking for.
My question is strictly pointing towards the ABS Mechanics, used for the Weak and the Default Setting.
I mean it’s partly explained when you scroll through both available Options, and I can definitely feel it working exactly how it’s meant to be by its explanation.
ABS Default, a Part of the Brake Force is being transferred to the Torque Force.
With ABS Weak, there is no Brake Force being shifted into Torque Force.
ABS weak is recommended for the experienced Drivers.
With both ABS Settings I get the same Brake Force with no lock ups, but the huge Benefit for me and I mostly (99%) use ABS weak, is that it’s much more precise.
I can rotate the Cars with much more precision and modulate the pressure exactly to my liking, without any interference being caused by the Torque Force Application induced with the ABS Default Setting.
I assume that 99.9% of GT Players Stick with Default ABS as it’s the “recommended Setting“ for no particular Reason but I guess that’s the common Way when YouTubers with high Ratings say that it’s the “fastest Setting“ without even showing a Proof or trying to compare things, but each to his own.
I can only highly advise you to try it for yourself and than decide which one you prefer.
Never follow blindly because someone says this or that is the best.

But anyway, back on topic.
ABS Default = ABS+ESP
ABS Weak = Regular/Basic ABS
Can anyone confirm my Observations or Point me towards a real World Comparison?!
 
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People say there is no different but I can feel the difference big time… ABS default will let you get away with bad braking technique vs abs weak will punish you for it and the cars actually feel more alive.
Very true, absolutely covers my Observations, I fully agree.
So basically ABS Default acts like some kind of improved Braking Stability Management which will help masking messy Braking Technique.
On the other side ABS weak acts like Real World ABS System and requires more advanced Braking Techniques and more precision.
I don’t see or notice a difference in threshold or Maximum Braking.
Both Settings seem to be equal in that regard.
The huge benefit in using ABS weak lies in it’s superiority when Trail Braking.
It’s so much more precise if applied correctly.
I‘m using Load Cell Brake Pedals with Brake Force cranked up to 70%, and it’s very natural and intuitive to modulate the pressure.
Maybe some High Tier Top Players Reading this Topic might share their Thoughts too.
Would be much appreciated.
I know that some of you Aliens are reading this for sure.
What do you Guys think?

Edit: I would be very pleased if @Scaff could share some insight.
I hope you had some pleasant Holidays, but it’s time to get back to Business.
The Community craves for your Knowledge :cheers::gtpflag:
 
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Thanks for your respond. But that’s not exactly what I was asking for.
My question is strictly pointing towards the ABS Mechanics, used for the Weak and the Default Setting.
I mean it’s partly explained when you scroll through both available Options, and I can definitely feel it working exactly how it’s meant to be by its explanation.
ABS Default, a Part of the Brake Force is being transferred to the Torque Force.
With ABS Weak, there is no Brake Force being shifted into Torque Force.
ABS weak is recommended for the experienced Drivers.
With both ABS Settings I get the same Brake Force with no lock ups, but the huge Benefit for me and I mostly (99%) use ABS weak, is that it’s much more precise.
I can rotate the Cars with much more precision and modulate the pressure exactly to my liking, without any interference being caused by the Torque Force Application induced with the ABS Default Setting.
I assume that 99.9% of GT Players Stick with Default ABS as it’s the “recommended Setting“ for no particular Reason but I guess that’s the common Way when YouTubers with high Ratings say that it’s the “fastest Setting“ without even showing a Proof or trying to compare things, but each to his own.
I can only highly advise you to try it for yourself and than decide which one you prefer.
Never follow blindly because someone says this or that is the best.

But anyway, back on topic.
ABS Default = ABS+ESP
ABS Weak = Regular/Basic ABS
Can anyone confirm my Observations or Point me towards a real World Comparison?!
Check out various sport bikes.

Ducati's Panigale V4 or the BMW S1000RR, etc, have the ability to adjust the level of the TCS and ABS.

Also, my VW Golf Alltrack has a "sport" mode where the ABS is still functional, The TCS is on (and can be turned off), and the stability system is inactive. In "Normal" they are all on.
 
Check out various sport bikes.

Ducati's Panigale V4 or the BMW S1000RR, etc, have the ability to adjust the level of the TCS and ABS.

Also, my VW Golf Alltrack has a "sport" mode where the ABS is still functional, The TCS is on (and can be turned off), and the stability system is inactive. In "Normal" they are all on.
Yep, I‘m aware that Sport Bikes have these Functions.
I own 2 Sportbikes, a 2014 Yamaha FZ8 and a 2019 Yamaha MT09.
The FZ8 has “just“ ABS, while the MT09 has 3riding Modes with 3different Throttle Mappings and ABS of course.
The Panigale V4s has Cornering ABS and some 6Axis ECU same as the 2021 Yamaha MT09.
But to be precise, I was referring to the different ABS Systems in GT7 and if there are some correlation to Real World ABS Systems.
But anyway I think even if there are some similarities, at the End of the Day I’ll just stick to what feels more comfortable to me.
Some prefer choosing what’s fastest for them either because they want to be as competitive as possible or they choose what feels more precise and gives them an overall better Driving Experience.
I chose the latter one, my Days of trying to be competitive at any cost are long gone.
Now I just drive to enjoy the Ride and experience the most immersive Enjoyment.
A shaking Cockpit View, no HUD and ABS Weak all day long, that’s my type of Jam 😁
GT at its finest 😌
 
A question for the Technical Lovers.
Can someone explain or provide a link where it’s confirmed that a System like “ABS WEAK“ in GT7 actually exists in real Life Cars.
I tried to find some valuable Info and searched a bit through the Net, but I couldn’t find any explicit Information on that.
From my understanding and experience I’d say that ABS weak in GT7 works as a regular and Basic ABS System.
At least for the Cars I’ve driven in real life which were equipped with an ABS System.
On the other Side we have “ABS DEFAULT“ in GT7 which from my understanding and experience with GT7 works as an combined ABS+ESP Hybrid ABS System.
So, ABS weak=Regular ABS System.
And ABS default = ABS/ESP Hybrid System.

I‘m not sure though if I’m messing things up.
But this ABS ESP Hybrid System definitely exists.
I‘m not going to share the link as it’s in German but if you’re interested you can google it for your own.
I hope that @Scaff might probably clarify things up, I mean if he can’t than it’s hopeless :lol:
Not from the factory, but for example, I know some japanese tuner companies make customizable ECUs thru which you can make ABS intervene later (or sooner).
 
Thanks for your respond. But that’s not exactly what I was asking for.
My question is strictly pointing towards the ABS Mechanics, used for the Weak and the Default Setting.
I mean it’s partly explained when you scroll through both available Options, and I can definitely feel it working exactly how it’s meant to be by its explanation.
ABS Default, a Part of the Brake Force is being transferred to the Torque Force.
With ABS Weak, there is no Brake Force being shifted into Torque Force.
ABS weak is recommended for the experienced Drivers.
With both ABS Settings I get the same Brake Force with no lock ups, but the huge Benefit for me and I mostly (99%) use ABS weak, is that it’s much more precise.
I can rotate the Cars with much more precision and modulate the pressure exactly to my liking, without any interference being caused by the Torque Force Application induced with the ABS Default Setting.
I assume that 99.9% of GT Players Stick with Default ABS as it’s the “recommended Setting“ for no particular Reason but I guess that’s the common Way when YouTubers with high Ratings say that it’s the “fastest Setting“ without even showing a Proof or trying to compare things, but each to his own.
I can only highly advise you to try it for yourself and than decide which one you prefer.
Never follow blindly because someone says this or that is the best.

But anyway, back on topic.
ABS Default = ABS+ESP
ABS Weak = Regular/Basic ABS
Can anyone confirm my Observations or Point me towards a real World Comparison?!
Ah I see, it looks like there’s a bit more going on under the hood then when it comes to ABS in GT7, that’s interesting. I assumed it was just the same system but with a higher anti-lock threshold on ABS weak

I’ve tried both and can definitely tell the difference. For me, I was using ABS weak for the campaign races, but changed to ABS default because I found it to be faster when doing circuit experience. I ended up really needing it to gold the Nordschleife track experience (although that was pre-physics update). But perhaps it’s just a case of getting more used to ABS weak. Weak feels a bit more interesting to drive with but I think most people don’t want to be at a disadvantage by using it
 
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This post is not strictly about the game’s physics but I figured some of you guys could help and I avoid creating a new thread.

I got a g29 3 weeks ago (my first wheel) and I’ve been adapting to drive with a wheel.

The thing is I can’t feel when I’m at the grip limit. When using the dualsense you have the triggers and the vibration letting you know when you’re overturning or spinning the tyres.

Is this just how it goes or am I just not driving on the limit? The only way I can notice I’m overturning is when the car doesn’t accelerate, understearing and tyres noise (for which I have increased the volume even though I hate the tyre noise).

I’m using 2 as ffb torque and 8 as ffb sensitivity if that matters.

Thanks
 
This post is not strictly about the game’s physics but I figured some of you guys could help and I avoid creating a new thread.

I got a g29 3 weeks ago (my first wheel) and I’ve been adapting to drive with a wheel.

The thing is I can’t feel when I’m at the grip limit. When using the dualsense you have the triggers and the vibration letting you know when you’re overturning or spinning the tyres.

Is this just how it goes or am I just not driving on the limit? The only way I can notice I’m overturning is when the car doesn’t accelerate, understearing and tyres noise (for which I have increased the volume even though I hate the tyre noise).

I’m using 2 as ffb torque and 8 as ffb sensitivity if that matters.

Thanks
Try 4 for torque, 5 for sensitivity. At these settings, as the rear begins to unload and lose grip, you will feel a lightness in the force feedback....understeer is felt as a faint shudder in the wheel. Tried multiple combos of ffb torque and sensitivity and this is where I felt the most and felt the best to me. Good luck.
 
Try 4 for torque, 5 for sensitivity. At these settings, as the rear begins to unload and lose grip, you will feel a lightness in the force feedback....understeer is felt as a faint shudder in the wheel. Tried multiple combos of ffb torque and sensitivity and this is where I felt the most and felt the best to me. Good luck.
Thank you. I’ll give those settings a go. Can you elaborate on the faint shudder? I didn’t understand what you mean.
 
Thank you. I’ll give those settings a go. Can you elaborate on the faint shudder? I didn’t understand what you mean.
As you crank the steering wheel into a corner, you will feel smooth and solid resistance in the wheel. Once you are start to understeer (usually as a result of over-cranking the steering wheel or too much speed), you will feel a a faint/light vibration/rumble in the wheel. It's minimal, but it's there. As you come out of the throttle and re-acquire grip, it will return to smooth resistance. You will constantly be going through and reacting to these different feelings of resistance, but as you get used to them your reactions become more fluid and natural.
 
As you crank the steering wheel into a corner, you will feel smooth and solid resistance in the wheel. Once you are start to understeer (usually as a result of over-cranking the steering wheel or too much speed), you will feel a a faint/light vibration/rumble in the wheel. It's minimal, but it's there. As you come out of the throttle and re-acquire grip, it will return to smooth resistance. You will constantly be going through and reacting to these different feelings of resistance, but as you get used to them your reactions become more fluid and natural.
Thank you. I’ll try to notice that next time. 👍
 
I’ve tried both and can definitely tell the difference. For me, I was using ABS weak for the campaign races, but changed to ABS default because I found it to be faster when doing circuit experience. I ended up really needing it to gold the Nordschleife track experience (although that was pre-physics update). But perhaps it’s just a case of getting more used to ABS weak. Weak feels a bit more interesting to drive with but I think most people don’t want to be at a disadvantage by using it
That’s interesting, I went down the other Route.
I started with ABS default, but quickly switched to ABS weak and sticked to it.
I completed everything with ABS weak as I found it much easier to be precise.
I don’t think you’re at disadvantage using ABS weak, to me it’s the complete opposite.
But like you said it most probably is a matter of preference and getting used to it.
I can honestly say that regardless of the ABS Settings my Lap times are absolutely the same.
The big difference though is the precision that ABS weak has on offer.
 
I have a question/ challenge for wheel users.

What is the closest you can come to matching your best time using a controller (using the same car in the same track with same settings, etc) ?

I only have a controller and sometimes I think I can easily get 0.8 - 1 second a lap faster if I had a wheel, not really about response time but more about finesse, steering mostly. And can you do it consistently? Just curious that is all, could be I am mistaken :) Cheers
 
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I have a question/ challenge for wheel users.

What is the closest you can come to matching your best time using a controller (using the same car in the same track with same settings, etc) ?

I only have a controller and sometimes I think I can easily get 0.8 - 1 second a lap faster if I had a wheel, not really about response time but more about finesse, steering mostly. And can you do it consistently? Just curious that is all, could be I am mistaken :) Cheers
As someone who just got a wheel I can tell you I can’t match my controller times yet with a few exceptions. In those exceptions even if I can match the time I’m not as consistent yet. I have years of practice playing with a controller. I’ll be dead before I can get that much time on a wheel since I’m no longer a kid with lots of time on my hands.
 
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I have a question/ challenge for wheel users.

What is the closest you can come to matching your best time using a controller (using the same car in the same track with same settings, etc) ?

I only have a controller and sometimes I think I can easily get 0.8 - 1 second a lap faster if I had a wheel, not really about response time but more about finesse, steering mostly. And can you do it consistently? Just curious that is all, could be I am mistaken :) Cheers
Prior to GT7 I'd say swtichig to wheel gained me .5-.8s per lap on average (after a while). The wheel mostly helped with being precise on trailbraking and corner entry.
 
In my case, using a wheel enables me to be far more precise in taking turns. Sometimes I need to be in chase cam to grasp well how I should approach turns, usually it's roof / hood cam, my preference. But with aggressive, difficult races like the Tokyo WTC600 Wet event, I also need to be in chase cam to have the situational awareness of the reckless bots around me. Too often, I'm spun out if I don't. It was utter hell for me till I switched views.
 
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I have a question/ challenge for wheel users.

What is the closest you can come to matching your best time using a controller (using the same car in the same track with same settings, etc) ?

I only have a controller and sometimes I think I can easily get 0.8 - 1 second a lap faster if I had a wheel, not really about response time but more about finesse, steering mostly. And can you do it consistently? Just curious that is all, could be I am mistaken :) Cheers
I switched from controller to wheel a few years ago when I was very into GT Sport. I was slower at first but gradually got faster and started to improve my rating from B/S to A+/S when I was at my peak. You got a lot more precision and feeling from the wheel and that’s what helped me get faster
 
Nothing controversial. However, he says it's easier than other sim games, while using TC and ASM... Not sure how he'd fare without assists.

Dan Suzuki, another big iRacing Youtuber, said that GT7 is more difficult than iRacing and ACC but very fun and enjoyable.




As Ermin doing identity crisis I guess he would say one day it's very good then after few days he will say it's bad and so one until he find an another sim to try and do the same thing again and again. I'm pretty sure that the man needs views so much that if he could he would make a video about Mario Kart and even Call of Duty.
 
As Ermin doing identity crisis I guess he would say one day it's very good then after few days he will say it's bad and so one until he find an another sim to try and do the same thing again and again. I'm pretty sure that the man needs views so much that if he could he would make a video about Mario Kart and even Call of Duty.
Dude will dislike GT no matter what state its in. I don't trust his opinion.
 
PD should start working with real racing drivers to adjust and calibrate the physcis to real life behaviour/lap times.

They have enough money to do so.

Or buy the physics-model from Kunos/ACC, as its state of the art.
 
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PD should start working with real racing drivers to adjust and calibrate the physcis to real life behaviour/lap times.

They have enough money to do so.

Or buy the physics-model from Kunos/ACC, as its state of the art.
How can be comparable a physics engine that have to simulate many kind of cars with one who just have gt3/4 cars?

Anyways Kazunory Is someone who have driving experience. I don't think that the flaws in physics there are cause he doesn't work with pilots.
 
I'd love for someone to try this with GT7.
It would be very cool to see.

For me, especially when it comes to slower, "less tired" road cars, GT7 seems to emulate physics really well. I feel like this could be recreated just as well.

Need to find a video of a ND Miata, BRZ, FRS, or any other stock road car for that matter, and try to recreate the movements as close as possible in 7.

With the popularity of sporty road cars and videos on Youtube, someone should be able to do something similar.
 
Yep, I‘m aware that Sport Bikes have these Functions.
I own 2 Sportbikes, a 2014 Yamaha FZ8 and a 2019 Yamaha MT09.
The FZ8 has “just“ ABS, while the MT09 has 3riding Modes with 3different Throttle Mappings and ABS of course.
The Panigale V4s has Cornering ABS and some 6Axis ECU same as the 2021 Yamaha MT09.
But to be precise, I was referring to the different ABS Systems in GT7 and if there are some correlation to Real World ABS Systems.
But anyway I think even if there are some similarities, at the End of the Day I’ll just stick to what feels more comfortable to me.
Some prefer choosing what’s fastest for them either because they want to be as competitive as possible or they choose what feels more precise and gives them an overall better Driving Experience.
I chose the latter one, my Days of trying to be competitive at any cost are long gone.
Now I just drive to enjoy the Ride and experience the most immersive Enjoyment.
A shaking Cockpit View, no HUD and ABS Weak all day long, that’s my type of Jam 😁
GT at its finest 😌
I turned the settings to ABS weak and I prefer the feel. I can't say that I am faster or slower, so I may as well enjoy the feeling.
 
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