Gran Turismo World Series 2024 Thread

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Got the payout and everything.
That is strange because I'm literally doing practice laps in the Merc at Spa?

You sure the payout wasn't for the TT that finished?

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No Nerf to the Gr3 Supra. :rolleyes:
There is for high-speed tracks, apparently:


As for Saturday's race, it looks pretty straightforward. Just a 10-lap sprint. I haven't driven 10 laps in free practice yet to see if there is any rain, but I doubt we'll see any. This is Nations Cup, after all (not Manu).

The one thing that strikes me as a bit odd is that we'll only have 5 minutes for qualifying. I'm guessing that will mean only one qualifying lap since even the best time in the global ranking was over 2:32.
 
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10 laps in this Merc could be a bit of an attritional one at lower levels. I've not driven it yet but I'm assuming it likes to slide around.
It's not that bad actually. The brakes are very "of the era" and to actually go fast there are a couple of places you over rev the he'll out of it.

It is a bit slide happy off of curbs but you can coast past that trait a bit.

I think the attrition will come from consistency rather than it sliding all over the place. Once you get a line wrong there is not real on the pace way to recover just because of carrying momentum.

I'm not GT1 this time round so will report high GT2 lobby races when I do them, but I'm feeling this will be like the RA at Watkins. Some will know how to extract the corner speed and some will drive it like a normal car.
 
In non-Merc news, the combinations for the GTWS finals have been announced.

Manufacturers is Gr.3 at Spa, probably in the rain.
Nations is the tuned road cars at Trial Mountain, then an undisclosed race*, then the final is 7 laps of N24 in the X2019...
TGR is the Super Formula at Road Atlanta/Interlagos/Red Bull Ring to qualify for the final you'd expect, GR010s at Le Mans (also probably in the rain).

*don't get too excited about this, they've done this multiple times before in GT7 GTWS and it's not once been unrevealed content yet.
 
It's a grid start tomorrow, any recommendations how to have a good one with this car? I'm a beginner so I've done just a few grid starts ever.
If you are in the GT2 or GT3 leagues, there's nothing to it. Just smash the gas pedal to the floor when the countdown starts and the car will blast off when the count hits zero. GT1 is a bit more complicated because it has the false start check, but it is basically the same thing. Floor it while holding the the emergency brake button, then release the brake when the lights change.

That's all I do, anyways. Maybe there are more subtle techniques to get a better start off the line, but I can't imagine they matter much in this race since you'll be into the chaos of T1 right off the bat.
 
If you are in the GT2 or GT3 leagues, there's nothing to it. Just smash the gas pedal to the floor when the countdown starts and the car will blast off when the count hits zero. GT1 is a bit more complicated because it has the false start check, but it is basically the same thing. Floor it while holding the the emergency brake button, then release the brake when the lights change.

That's all I do, anyways. Maybe there are more subtle techniques to get a better start off the line, but I can't imagine they matter much in this race since you'll be into the chaos of T1 right off the bat.
Thank you for the answer! Is this for sure that GT2 and 3 do not have false start check?
 
Merc W196 is very nice to drive, handling has a good weight unlike most of the other formula cars (unless they have updated these, didn't check last night). And the powerslides.... everything about it is lovely! Got to make a livery today...

There's always plenty of friendly test Nations races going on in lobbies, if you want to check your standing starts that's a good place (plus pick up any other tips). You can save the replay and see who gets off the line best!
 
There's always plenty of friendly test Nations races going on in lobbies, if you want to check your standing starts that's a good place (plus pick up any other tips).
Assuming you have 20,000,000 credits kicking around to buy the car for yourself, of course.

I was fortunate to have enough cash on hand to pick one up. I've run a few custom races for practice now. I find that the car does drive differently under race trim. It's not a huge change, but the fuel weight and slipstream effects (I've been using 'strong' for practice) do impact my braking points noticeably.

I'm guessing a lot of drivers will be stuck using a rental and will only have experience driving in the idealized conditions of Free Practice. I'm expecting a lot of chaos as drivers adapt on-the-fly to fuel weight, tire wear, and slipstream effects.
 
They just introduced the W196 and immediately it gets a real race, but the RA272 has been in the game for a while and either only gets meaningless Race A's or stupid sprint races around glorified go-kart tracks...

As far as how it drives, I like it so far. I'm still about 2s off the pace I probably need to be at, and don't quite know where to find that time, but I suspect I'm over-driving the corners a bit to compensate for the tall gears and relative peakiness of the engine.

Also, when you get a chance, drive in cockpit view and watch the tachometer. 🤣
 
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Also, when you get a chance, drive in cockpit view and watch the tachometer. 🤣
I asked ChatGTP about this:

Why the Tachometer Jumps:​

The original W196 used a mechanical tachometer, which was common in race cars of that era. These instruments were directly driven by the engine and relied on physical components like gears and cables to translate engine speed into needle movement. This setup often resulted in:
  • Laggy or inconsistent movement: The needle might not move smoothly, especially during rapid changes in RPM.
  • Jumps in large increments: The mechanical nature often caused the needle to "jump" rather than show precise, real-time RPM updates.
The jerky tachometer in the game is a nod to this historical inaccuracy, showing Polyphony Digital's attention to detail in recreating vintage cars authentically.

If you're finding it tricky to drive with the jerky tachometer, you may want to rely on engine sound or the digital display (if available) for more precise RPM information.
 

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