I used to use 5/60/60. Found in the end the wheelspin was too uneven for me so I have now gone to 60/60/60. However I found in my ma70 supra, I had to lower it to 60/40/60 otherwise the acceleration output was too violent and would either straighten up or oversteer. Braking sensitivity I keep high as I like the lift off oversteer. However it will affect the amount of time you have to change gears, if you have a clutch. Having a locked diff you will want to keep inertia into corners, and power over will be much harder pull off successfully. The other reason you like having a low braking sensitivity could be due to running a toe value rear toe angle also? It really effects what the car does during throttle modulation. I tend to use 0.10 on slow cars and upto 0.16 on higher powered cars with plenty of wheelspin.
Hmm . . . Interesting. I don't believe I've ever felt, with LSD settings as you show, the wheel spin 'uneven'. What it would make it uneven, as far as I understand, is a
acc sensitivity not been max. Why, because when it ain't the power distribution to the rear wheels is not equal. It will send more power to the wheel that needs it the
most and not to both at the same time, which I believe its what we need. (This will be felt more as lower the digit is.) It will also encourage understeer and even more
when manji on long straights -for a DS3 user, of course which its harder/complicated to have a consistent throttle and steering control. (Still talking if not having acc
sensitivity maxed.)
Interesting part here is this, "
The other reason you like having a low braking sensitivity could be due to running a toe value rear toe angle also? It really effects what
the car does during throttle modulation." I'm trying to comprehend this statement, if it may be called like that.
Well, first but not least, if I'm not mistaken toe angle or better said, rear toe angle and a low braking sensitivity don't have anything to do with one another. What it
would affect during 'throttle modulation' (as I understand this expression) would be, which perhaps is what you meant, the rear toe angle. Rear toe angle, while the
value is greater the more the car will want to go forward in the sense that it will give one forward inertia. (Umm . . . don't think that's well explained. Ugh, I knew I'm
not good at this.)
For instance, if one puts a high value in the rear, while drifting, it will make the car snappy (Increases understeer) because since the tires are facing more inward than
natural, it will bring the car straight. Plus it can also lead to lost of angle or won't let you get angle. (If one experiment with this, it would be more understandable)
There are various way to control the snap (understee), one of 'em been controlling the rear toe and other components.
Braking sensitivity
without ABS: "High sensitivity will increase stability when braking, but will also inhibit the ability of the left and right wheels to turn at different
speeds, increasing understeer on corner entry." For me, the lower the number the better and Imma explain why. (One of the main, and I think the only reason why I do
not use ABS is because . . . you could say that I use the 'left foot technique' or whatever it is called. When tandem, for me to follow, hold a really smooth line, or gain
angle while chasing, I press the brake slightly while still on the gas -if needed, the pressure can be more. Of course, for a good result/outcome for this process, brakes
have to be tuned.) I'd say, the braking 'power', it wouldn't be send even to the wheels, therefore; helping more this technique. (I really can't explain this but I would
be able to show it)
This 'technique doesn't go with everybody, but I do find it really effective.
Don't apologize mate, I respect every input from everyone 👍 I've never been a good drifter so I'm just trying to learn as much as possible and be open to suggestions. And again, I didn't mean to insinuate that DS3 drifting is easy. It IS a lot harder to modulate your controls with just buttons and sticks, but I find you have more room to work with because you can go 0-100% in throttle/brake/steering more quickly, hence LSD setups don't have to be perfect. With a wheel even a small change can have a large effect. Again, maybe I'm just not that good yet to make consistent judgements.
I find high powered cars need Initial 60. But since I'm still practicing and mostly drift low powered cars I use Initial 5. I'm sure Accel 60 is definitely locked, so I always use that. Decel I'm still a bit confused. Most people seem to use Decel 60, but I can't even start the slide with that setting, so I use Decel 5. Rear toe I mostly use 0.10-0.15 (pretty similar to you actually). Then again, I don't have the e-brake or clutch function since I have nowhere to mount my H-shifter. I can only initiate drifts with inertia and power over.
So in summary, my main setting is 5/60/5. I'm guessing if I can use e-brake/clutch 5/60/60 is the way to go.
Also, I've just read through all 8 pages of this drifting subforum, and the consensus seems to be as follows:
5/60/60 - welded diff
60/5/5 - viscous diff
XX/60/5 - 1 way diff
XX/60/30 - 1.5 way diff
XX/60/60 - 2 way diff
Also some good websites on drift tuning IRL:
http://www.modified.com/tech/modp-1201-basic-drift-chassis-setup/
http://www.drifting.com/forums/tech...setup-toe-camber-spring-rates-learn-here.html
Thank you for understanding.
You said, ''I find high powered cars need Initial 60.'' Well, I disagree with you. When having high hp cars, if you have the Initial Torque all out, when you touch that
gas, that car will spin the hell out of his life on the sample place and no forward motion. It would not be able to grip with sooo much spin from the get-go.
Initial TOrque: "The higher the setting, the less likely unexpected changes in handling are to occur, but the more likely you are to experience understeer"
Side Note: Every comment made by me, is/are my personal opinion and not a fact.
Silverstone _ Stowe Circuit_4
Silverstone _ Stowe Circuit_2
)
