Harry's Trans Am WS6

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All these high end sports cars with owners that have no clue how to launch them or even drive them... Lol And @Slash has like every single video. One of the videos a Nissan GTR (Sub 3 sec 0-60) gets dusted off the line by a near stock Muscle Car. If you're going to buy a car that expensive learn to drive it first.
 
No idea how how GT-R could lose, it basically drives itself with the launch control feature :lol:

Anyway, back on topic. Next up I think I'll be getting a new true dual exhaust system, then get it dyno tuned. Quick, easy (by no means cheap) 30+whp...
 
Check out my channel. Its there somewhere. A turbo 3800 Regal beat it too
 
Straight Pipe it... Lol JK And I don't know if you would want to get it dyno tuned now. I would first upgrade the throttle body, and fuel injectors or something along the fuel injection lines. Pump in more fuel and air then dyno. This will add a good amount more HP once you dyno.
 
Well the shop near me charges $450 for the initial dyno tune, then $200 for any additional tunes. Car still running on OEM tune. Then after exhaust I'll upgrade intake, TB, MAF, Cam/Heads.
 
Well the shop near me charges $450 for the initial dyno tune, then $200 for any additional tunes. Car still running on OEM tune. Then after exhaust I'll upgrade intake, TB, MAF, Cam/Heads.

That's not bad at all. Then again my Daily is a Volkswagen and anything aftermarket for that car is expensive. And for heads if you want to save money like over 1k get used LS6 Heads. And then you could port them (But that gets expensive). But just from LS6 heads and Cam you would get min 75 more WHP. And even more depending on cam.
 
Bigger injectors will be a nice upgrade too.

For what you'll pay for LS6 heads you are better off buying a nice aftermarket pair of aluminum heads that will net you as much as 125whp from those alone. especially if you plan to port them, but on an engine that small with such a light state of tune you need to keep port velocity up. Huge ports won't work well on the street unless you want to spin 7500hp and have no balls under 3500rpm. That's why everyone with 351 Clevelands like the 2V heads for the street since the 4V heads are pure race heads.
 
Bigger injectors will be a nice upgrade too.

For what you'll pay for LS6 heads you are better off buying a nice aftermarket pair of aluminum heads that will net you as much as 125whp from those alone. especially if you plan to port them, but on an engine that small with such a light state of tune you need to keep port velocity up. Huge ports won't work well on the street unless you want to spin 7500hp and have no balls under 3500rpm. That's why everyone with 351 Clevelands like the 2V heads for the street since the 4V heads are pure race heads.

You can find a some nice LS6 heads used from a Z06 or CTS-V (C5 and up to 2005) for less than $400. Them alone will add around 50 WHP. And for that price its a great deal. Aluminum machined heads can cost around $2000. Then again they are a lot more reliable and already machined.
 
What the hell heads are you looking at? You can build a whole stroker motorfor $2k high end aluminum heads cost on average around $800 for a set pre machined because they don't need any machine work. You don't need AFR 165s or 218s to go fast Edelbrock Trick Flows are plenty good.
 
What the hell heads are you looking at? You can build a whole stroker motorfor $2k high end aluminum heads cost on average around $800 for a set pre machined because they don't need any machine work. You don't need AFR 165s or 218s to go fast Edelbrock Trick Flows are plenty good.

AFR's... Lol Go big or go home. And considering he wants to stay NA and reach his 500HP Goal (I think he said this) he may want them. Just look up LS6 ALuminum Heads and look at the prices of AFR. Some go up over $2500.
 
I'm well aware what the prices on AFR heads are. But 500hp is EASILY attainable with a Edelbrock top end on it. AFR's are for like 1000whp+ applications IMO.

I'm not saying LS6 heads are bad heads because they aren't but you could probably do a little bit better. Most people don't like dumping money into factory heads.
 
All I can say is that if Harry is willing to pay $20k for an engine alone, that being the Chevrolet 572, he's :censored:ing crazy.

Yes, I know he has no intentions of doing that, I'm just adding a joke in. ;)
 
The LS1 he already has is more than capable of making stupid power. No sense in pulling it for a carbed 572 when all you'll be doing is adding weight.
 
I'm well aware what the prices on AFR heads are. But 500hp is EASILY attainable with a Edelbrock top end on it. AFR's are for like 1000whp+ applications IMO.

I'm not saying LS6 heads are bad heads because they aren't but you could probably do a little bit better. Most people don't like dumping money into factory heads.

Then get what I said originally. LS6 heads pulled from a LS6. 01-05 Z06. Cheap, Reliable, and direct bolt on to a LS-1.
 
Then get what I said originally. LS6 heads pulled from a LS6. 01-05 Z06. Cheap, Reliable, and direct bolt on to a LS-1.
You're not going to go to the junkyard and find LS6 heads sitting on a Corvette this early. People want those heads and want the car. That chance of finding those, or even the Vette alone by itself is less than finding a 4 bolt main 351C 4V CJ block from 1972 by itself.

Ebay is you're friend in this case. Still a lot of work though.
 
This is a max effort build, no expense spared. That's why my progress is so slow. All parts I buy will be top quality, like mich said, go big or go home.

H/C/I is still a ways down the road but I was looking at some AFR, Trickflow heads. I may just end up saying 🤬 it and go for a 383 stroker :lol:
 
Keep the LS1, and just boost it if you really want too. There are 750HP builds on turbo'd LS1's.

@Slash you can find them more easily then what you think. Just because it's used doesn't mean a junkyard pull. You could also just get a GM refurbed one from a dealer.

And harry if you want to go big just drop a LS7 in it 👍 A lot of Resto Mod muscle cars have the LS7 Engine and Trans. And there is a huge aftermarket for it. But this is when you starting into big money but I think its worth it. By the way guys the LS7 is what in the Current Z06. Some as ZR-1 just not SC'd and a little different dress up.
 
Keep the LS1, and just boost it if you really want too. There are 750HP builds on turbo'd LS1's.

@Slash you can find them more easily then what you think. Just because it's used doesn't mean a junkyard pull. You could also just get a GM refurbed one from a dealer.

And harry if you want to go big just drop a LS7 in it 👍 A lot of Resto Mod muscle cars have the LS7 Engine and Trans. By the way guys the LS7 is what in the Current Z06. Some as ZR-1 just not SC'd and a little different dress up.
GM will charge you up the ass for a pair of them.


I say do a 383 stroker build. Can't go wrong. If you really want to do it right, use an Eagle or Scat bottom end.
 
GM will charge you up the ass for a pair of them.


I say do a 383 stroker build. Can't go wrong. If you really want to do it right, use an Eagle or Scat bottom end.

Unless he decides to go the Boost route. Turboing a 383 is not cheap and not easy to do. And why would you want a carbed motor?
 
Unless he decides to go the Boost route. Turboing a 383 is not cheap and not easy to do. And why would you want a carbed motor?

*facepalm*

You can get 383 stroker cranks with a overbore for LS1 engine and run injection on it just like stock. 383 strokers apply to any and all Chevy small blocks. He already said he wants to stay N/A so boost is already ruled out.
 
*facepalm*

You can get 383 stroker cranks with a overbore for LS1 engine and run injection on it just like stock. 383 strokers apply to any and all Chevy small blocks. He already said he wants to stay N/A so boost is already ruled out.

Wow I'm dumb. I'm done for the day. For some reason I was thinking that he was gonna engine swap it. And by the way slash that is what was done on my parents camaro also. We finally dug up the paperwork and when we just did a basic tune up we took everything apart and realized this was done by the previous owner. We always knew it wasn't stock and this is what he did.
 
Did some more reading and I don't think I'm ready to dive head first into a $5K+ stroker motor build (not to mention I'm strapped for cash :lol:)

Think I'll focus on suspension now after I get my exhaust. When I was under my car doing my clutch all my bushings looked shot. Probably start out with a set of adjustable LCA's then a set of quality shocks/springs. Cheaper route not to mention I can still drive my car while I'm upgrading it unlike the stoker build...
 
Get a pair of electronic cutouts. QTP's are good but expensive. You can get knock off electronic QTP's for about $250 for a pair that comes with all wires, switches and mounting hardware.
 
I was thinking of getting duals, but then this will still be my DD so I don't want to be setting alarms off whenever I go into parking garages :lol:

Cutouts flow as good as duals?
 
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