Hot Wheels and Matchbox Customizing Thread

[McZachenF1138]

That's not a 100% casting, it's mainline car sold as a Prefered edition. Do tear into it. I would. It's awful.

Preferred Edition? Never heard such a thing, but the name sounds more collectable than "Hot Wheels 100%"
But yeah, I didn't entirely believe the card when it said Hot Wheels 100% on it.

Ah forget him. If I had the money, I'd wheelswap 1:18 diecasts.

That would be unworldly difficult though on account of how many different companies are out there that manufacture 1:18s.

 

[Takumi Fujiwara]

Hey, speaking of 1:18s, have any of you guys done any modding on them? I bought a couple Maistos at Costco for $12.99 a piece the other day and it occurred to me how cool they'd be as mod fodder. They're made of Zamac so stripping the paint is probably the same process, and there's tons of room to detail them compared to a 1/64.

I'm thinking I might buy another 240Z if I find one and turn it into a 432R type thing, with blacked out hood and trim, a fabricated wing and maybe a chin spoiler, racier wheels, and functioning LED lights.

 

[AOS-]

We do 1:64 mods here. We don't touch 1:18s in this thread.

 

[McZachenF1138]

For that kind of larger work, I just buy (mostly) Tamiya 1:24 models and paint them however I want.
That is, when I have the dough for one. I have a mk IV Supra left unfinished.

But yes, enough on non 1:64s!

 

[Takumi Fujiwara]

We do 1:64 mods here. We don't touch 1:18s in this thread.

Yeah, but they were already brought up. They're probably closer to modding HWs than building plastic kits too, since the materials are similar and you're starting with an already finished model, even though the scale is so different.

 

[Cano]

Preferred Edition? Never heard such a thing, but the name sounds more collectable than "Hot Wheels 100%"
But yeah, I didn't entirely believe the card when it said Hot Wheels 100% on it.

Preferreds was a 2003 series that put regular-mainline series with rubber tires -such as that thing you showed- along with some real 100% cars, then put them in fancy packages with car brands and magazine names and such. These are often refered to as 100% cars too, but I fail to see why, they are mainline cars with rubber tires. You might say they were the predecessors to the higly sucessful Garage/Boulevard lineups. You can see the list and the cars here:

http://www.southtexasdiecast.com/hwguide/preferred.html

The real, absolutely gorgeous 100% cars was HW fooray into real-deal 1/64 collectibles. They started in... 1998 if my memory serves me correctly, 99 at most, and were multipiece, multifeature 1:64s. They had separate bumpers, engines and sometimes window trim, rubber tires on life-like wheels and tires, and were sold in multipackages depicting, for instance, different eras in NASCAR or Drag Racing, 4 sucessful Ed Roth cars, Hard Rock Cafe Cadoos, and such, in two packs depicting a stock and a custom something, or in single packages called black boxes or Tire Boxes. I think this has been the finest line of cars HW has ever produced. Whoever scofs about the Garage/Boulevard line bein' well made and all that trash should really hold a 100% car in their hands. Their quality is like the Autoart-made cars but at way less cost. The line was killed in... I think 2005. Here are the lists for individual cars and multipackage offerings; when looking at the 3 and 4 car sets make sure they sahy "hot wheels collectibles", as there are more with regular mainli ne cars depicted in the list:

http://www.southtexasdiecast.com/hwguide/hwbox.html

http://www.southtexasdiecast.com/hwguide/hwset.html

 

[McZachenF1138]

I absolutely agree with you on how they feel completely different than almost all other diecasts as I have these sets, all loose however.

 

[Cano]

Yes, their quality is amazing, specially those done for multi-car sets like the Hot Rod Mag 4 car thing you have there. The Invader and Leonard Leong's Hawaiian are amazing. I have a few myself and should really start pushing my collection towards getting more of those instead of buying more old stuff. I recently grabbed a couple, a Vette and a Daytona Coupe.

 

[McZachenF1138]

What I find most intriguing about them is how these were whole other castings that were out of the mainstream as opposed to higher quality mainlines such as what I had a feeling you were getting at by mentioning the Garage and Boulevard series.
I get that they were geared (pun slightly intended) towards collectors, but still quite a costly undertaking none the less. But as we know, Mattel gives Hot Wheels loads of moolah to do their own thing with. ...cough...corkscrew...cough...

 

[Nessy]

Inspired by what Otaku Taikun said a while back (RWB), and looking at what can be done, ie: Tasty widebody BMW R1600 posted a while back, along with the tasty Brasilia that Cano's buddy did. I've decided (rather ambitiously ) to attempt a RAUH Welt 993.

Here's a crappy plasticine mock-up i threw together:
(forgive the shoddy work.. just wanted to get a rough idea of how it could look.. PS, it's only done on one side).

 

[AOS-]

Ugh I need to get some putty of my own to do body fabrication to several cars I have.. What kind of putty is used?

 

[Nessy]

@ AOS, there's a few different puttys, but i'm going to be using 'Milliput' (grey). I used it about 10yrs ago and got some really good results on plastic (it also works on metal). There's actually various grades you can get it in, but grey is your best bet, and then maybe white for filling in fine gaps.

PS, It's a 2 part putty that you have to mix.

 

[AOS-]

Milliput is the brand and the grades are distinguished by colours?

What the two-part formula like? It's not runny at first, is it? I have a tube of some cement putty or something, and when you squeeze the content out, there's the putty, and the gooey liquid which I assumed was the hardener. I used it to plug up the rear wing holes in the stealth project M3 and whomever and because it was so runny, it drooped inwards.

but yeah, I just wanted to know more about the putty you use.

 

[Nessy]

Yes Milliput is the brand. There's 4 or 5 different grades, and yes they're referred to by colour, the one i'm going to be using is actually referred to as silver grey Milliput.
The 2 parts are both putty, so it's not runny, though if you use water whilst molding and shaping, it will produce a smoother finish (not that it matters as i'll be sanding it down).

[EDIT]

Link: http://www.milliput.com/home.htm

 

[Takumi Fujiwara]

I really miss Tamiya's Polyester Putty. I'm talking about the kind with the big tube of green/blue putty and the separate hardener you mix in. It was just the right consistency to spread on, dried quickly, and was incredibly easy to sand and paint. Unfortunately they stopped importing it. I guess it can be ordered from overseas though.

 

[Cano]

I really miss Tamiya's Polyester Putty. I'm talking about the kind with the big tube of green/blue putty and the separate hardener you mix in. It was just the right consistency to spread on, dried quickly, and was incredibly easy to sand and paint. Unfortunately they stopped importing it. I guess it can be ordered from overseas though.

That thing rox teh sox. A friend still has some lying arpund (he buidls 1/24 kits) and I once saw how he worked it, pure magic. I'd also like to get my hands on some of dat.

 

[Nessy]

I really miss Tamiya's Polyester Putty. I'm talking about the kind with the big tube of green/blue putty and the separate hardener you mix in. It was just the right consistency to spread on, dried quickly, and was incredibly easy to sand and paint. Unfortunately they stopped importing it. I guess it can be ordered from overseas though.

Iv'e just been looking into the Tamiya Poly-putty, does sound really nice.. but can't find any details of whether it adheres well to metal (for plastic it certainly does). Though the best stuff iv'e read about is called 'Magic sculpt'.. suppose to be an absolute dream to work with, (but again.. don't know whether it adheres well to metal). Do you know whether the Tamiya polyester putty bonds to metal?
If not, i guess i'll just stick to the Milliput, as iv'e used it before (albeit it on plastic), and i know it's widely used amongst 1/18 diecast customising enthusiasts, though i might actually opt for Milliput white as it has a finer grain (working on smaller 1/64 scale kinda makes sense). It's either that, or i may try Tamiya's Epoxy putty (essentially the same as Milliput), but the Milliput's real easy for me to get hold of.

[EDIT]

No worries, just found out the answer to my question, Polyester does indeed bond to metal. Though i think i'll still stick with the Milliput, as my local stockists carry everything Tamiya except the putty... (may be because of the styrene.. i don't know).

 

[AOS-]

Damn, now I want to try playing with putty. Should I need to go that far for polyester putty or will regular putty work for building new parts? Say I wanted to sculpt a wide boy kit on a car, will regular putty stay solid or will it not hold?

There's a bit of a price gap in between the two. Which would you guys suggest me use?

Polyester @ $10 vs. Basic type @ $3

 

[Takumi Fujiwara]

I've actually never tried Tamiya's normal putty, but if it's anything like typical model putty, it's going to be crumbly and go on pretty lumpy. For actually sculpting a widebody setup, it might make sense to use a two-part putty like Milliput, the kind that you can actually shape into things, instead of the "creamy" stuff like the ones you linked.

The other option for polyester putty is to get a good-quality automotive spot glazing putty (used for fine bodywork). Supposedly some modellers have had really good luck with this stuff. I've only tried it once, and didn't get the mix right, but with more trying you might have luck. Evercoat "Euro-Soft" is the brand that's supposed to be pretty good, and you'll probably have to go to an auto paint store instead of just a normal parts store to find it.

 

[AOS-]

I basically wanted some kind of putty that allows me to create additional form and can be sanded. I know polyester can do it; I learned that's what is used to create PVC figurine prototypes. I'll look into Milliput and see if I can get it at an inexpensive price.

 

[Nessy]

@ AOS
Whichever you decide to use (i'd personally go with a 2 part epoxy), just make sure to test it out first, on a car you don't mind scrapping (that's what i intend to do). That 'Euro-Soft' stuff that Takumi suggested sounds real good (makes sense it being a proper automotive product), though if you do decide to go with a 2 part epoxy like the 'Milliput' (Tamiya also do a version), bare a few things in mind:

1) When mixing, it would be wise to weigh out equal amounts of both parts (putty) maybe use some kitchen scales, so they'd be less margin for error. (i also intend to do the same kind of thing once mixed, to make sure i apply equal amounts for each body part... right & left wheel arches for example)

2) If you use Milliput, it starts to harden after about an hour, it has quite a small operating window in that after 3 hours it starts to become quite solid... so any sanding /smoothing work (by use of water), needs to be done within that time frame (between 1 & 2hrs preferably). It actually takes 24hrs to cure completely, and when it's cured it becomes rock solid, making it impossible to sand or detach from whatever it's stuck too. However it has been suggested, that if you want to remove Milliput from metal surfaces after curing, that putting the diecast in the freezer for a few hours, and give the Milliput a helpful tap (hammer and chisel i suspect ) off the metal surface... Metal contracts when frozen, as does the Milliput.

3) It would be wise to have some safety goggles handy when sanding (dust), you also don't want to go rubbing your eyes with your hands, Styrene based products especially. Would also be wise to wear a face mask, as you don't want to go breathing in the dust (kinda obvious), for Styrene based products especially.. there has been suggestions that certain levels of Styrene could act as a carcinogen.. though it hasn't ever been proven, but rather safe than sorry. Oh, and if you use the wet technique when sculpting/molding with epoxy, don't lick your fingers (again kinda obvious).

I know it's obvious common sense info AOS, but i hope you find it helpful anyway.


Anyway, i decided to do a quick wheel swap on the 993 using?... you guessed it, the crusty white painted wheels, (i'm so predictable )
I don't intend on using them on the final car, it's just the wheels i have in mind are the exact same diameter, the original wheels that came on the 993 are actually 0.5mm less in diameter, so i'm pleased that the larger wheels fit nicely under the arches with no clearance issues.

 

[Cano]

Anyway, i decided to do a quick wheel swap on the 993 using?... you guessed it, the crusty white painted wheels, (i'm so predictable )
I don't intend on using them on the final car, it's just the wheels i have in mind are the exact same diameter, the original wheels that came on the 993 are actually 0.5mm less in diameter, so i'm pleased that the larger wheels fit nicely under the arches with no clearance issues.

Nice to know they fit nicely on the fenders, I also have one of those waiting to be butchered. The caged interior sold me.

 

[AOS-]

Thanks for the heads up.


And hah, same wheels. Are those speed machine wheels? I wasn't following your past posts so I'm completely ignorant.

 

[Nessy]

You won't be disappointed Cano, though the rear of the interior needs paneling out (can see daylight through the wheel-well, also was a bit of a pain to get into.. rounded rivets, but i know you know how to deal with that kind of stuff.
Have you got the livered version or unpainted? (wanted the unpainted one myself but couldn't find one).

@ AOS.
No worries, and yeah they're crudely painted speed machines (small diameter).

 

[Cano]

I have a black one with some livery. I'll be stripping it off, though.

 

[Nessy]

Cool, iv'e yet to see a black one, i have seen a silver and a white one though.
Super jelly about in black. 👍

 

[Cano]

I'm in fact thinking about using the interior on another car and turning this one into a street car.

 

[Nessy]

The rollcage is glued into the interior, but a bit of solvent on the underside should fix it, or just use a craft knife to remove it.
Looking forward to see what you do with it. 👍

 

[AOS-]

How do you know I'm big on this stuff now? When you make a enclosure similar to a sandblasting cabinet. I had an old 3-panel display boards, the ones kids used to decorate for their middle-school presentations, cut it in half, put one half behind the dremel that's fastened to the stand, and put the other half in front. What I did with the front piece was I cut out 2 holes for my hands to fit through and cut out a larger section above that and covered that up with a sheet of acetate (which I also had lying around) so I can see what I'm doing. This served to contain the metal dust from flying everywhere when grinding off the rivets and the acetate serves as eye protection as well.

Without posting unnecessary images, I now have cars ready for the White Series, wheelswaps and added more donors. I also cut the wing off the dark red S2000 I had before. Sorry Cano, I didn't tell you this before but my hand slipped during the time I gut the wheels and the dremel left a cut on the bumper.

 

[CodeRedR51]

Diorama ideas circulating in my head:

- Mars Rover
- Vanishing Point

Might get started this weekend.